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kylepw

Boncoura

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Copped some Boncoura denim today in Kyoto so thought I'd share my thoughts and fit pics.

 

There's three denim models, the 66, Chinchback, and XX. 66 is pretty tapered, Cinchback a little more room with a chinch on the back (obviously) and slightly tapered, and XX is straight, a little more roomy. All are one-wash.

 

Fit:

 

For reference, I am 5'7" with approximately 29" waist.

 

Here's the Chinchback that I was originally intending to buy in size 30. 

Boncoura Cinchback Front (size 30)

Boncoura Cinchback Side (size 30)

 
Thoughts: Big in the waist on me, but sizing down to 29 would've been too skinny for my taste. I thought the front looked great. But since I was going for a straight leg, I wasn't feeling the side taper. Length is a little on the short side but fine on me. Rise is high, even higher than my LVC 501 '33. I thought it looked okay, though.
 
And here's the XX in size 29 (30 was a little big).

Boncoura XX Front (size 29)

Boncoura XX Side (size 29)

 
Thoughts: Pictures don't do justice. Fit was great, from the waist to the straight leg. Note on length: length was shorter than size 30. Apparently lengths change from sizes 28-29, 30-33, 34, etc. I asked why: the guy said that the designer (Hisashi Morishima) hemmed the bottoms with a special hemming machine model (pardon my lack of jargon). If you ask some denim shops to hem your jeans, they might outsource it to place to get hemmed that doesn't use that machine, so he didn't want this and so intentionally shortened the length of his denim. This is fine for the average Japanese or guys on the shorter side like myself, but might not work for taller folks.
 
(Update 10/19)
I didn't notice how beautiful the hem was until after this post. Notice the intertwined orange/yellow and thin, pink-lined selvedge. 

Boncoura XX Hem 1

Boncoura XX Hem 2

 
Construction:
I'm no expert on what makes a great jean in terms of construction, but basically EVERYTHING from the rivets to the thin, pink-lined selvedge to the cotton construction is superb. The material is tough but soft. I felt a few used samples and they had a beautiful blue hue and were really soft. The original color is a darker blue, almost navy. Much darker than a Warehouse jean I compared in the shop. 
 
Conclusion: 
I was looking for a straight leg so went with the XX. Both models were great, IMO. The only issue I could see is length for taller people and cost (about 10,000 yen more than a Warehouse). But once I saw how much work and detail were put into these guys, it was worth it for me.
Edited by kylepw

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Never heard of that brand, but I really like how they fit you! I prefer the first one though, looks cowboy-ish

I just wish that you had made (english....) some bigger pics :D

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I never heard of the brand, but it looks like you nailed the fit.

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I've read a bit about Boncoura and I've been pretty interested in them, I really like the patch they use.

I think they've been mentioned a few times in the unknown Japanese brands thread.

Also don't they shut down their looms if the air is too humid or something along those lines?

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^ that's what the one guy in the "unknown Japanese Brands" wrote, yes.

 

There are also 1 or 2 retailers in the UK (for us Europeans)

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First I've heard of the brand - thanks for your post, kylepw.

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fuckin expensive though rather do a warehouse

bonvuras are priced almost the same as an evisu no1

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Thanks for the comments, guys. It's a little difficult to find stuff on Boncoura without understanding Japanese, so here's some stuff I found:

 

Fit pics

(random people like cameramen, craftsmen, stylists, etc.)

http://boncoura.jp/archives/65642367.html

http://boncoura.jp/archives/65642389.html

XX worn 1.5 years by hair stylist in Hokkaido apparently 5 days/wk and occasionally thrown in the washer

http://archstyle.tv/blog/branda-g/boncoura/item-info22122.html

 

 

Fade pics

Mr. Morishima's 1 year old Cinch Back (in the article, he keeps referring to it as his "handsome son" that he raised...)

http://boncoura.jp/archives/65693748.html

This is a '66 model that was worn for 6 months, washed 1-2 times a month.

http://www.nestclothingstore.com/2011/09/29/141822/

 

Hardware pr0n

http://boncoura.jp/archives/65640499.html

http://boncoura.jp/archives/65638733.html

 

Boncoura clothing line

Stuff at Loftman, including fit pics and sizing charts

​https://eq.loftman.co.jp/products/list.php?maker_id=24

Edited by kylepw

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ok ok i think ill cop my first boncoura soon

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think i may have to join you Ed . The more i look at pics the more i want a pair , ill have a look at them when im in Tokyo 

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I've been interested in Boncoura too, can't seem to find much online stock though from my research.

Denim looks really nice, I like the patch too.

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if only the inseam would be a tad longer...below 80 cm on the '66-cut is just way too short for me.

Dunno if they offer a longer version but IIRC they don't

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What would it even sit at post soak with a pre soak measurement of >80cm?

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bradl, that's the Cinchback model. You can tell because of the rivet below the fly. 

Which model am I looking at in the hardware porn, where he refers to them as his "fourth son" (bad translation?)

 

17b367af.jpg

 

Also, their denim shirts use some bloody nice denim. Reminds me of the appaloosa 

 

https://eq.loftman.co.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=36

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What would it even sit at post soak with a pre soak measurement of >80cm?

All models are "one wash" so very little/no shrinkage

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if only the inseam would be a tad longer...below 80 cm on the '66-cut is just way too short for me.

Dunno if they offer a longer version but IIRC they don't

Yeah, the XX and Cinchback have longer inseams than the '66. Not sure why, maybe because '66 is slimmer so little cuffing expected? I typically see Japanese guys wearing that model with dressier, low-top shoes like Alden oxfords. XX model is over 80" from size 30.

 

https://eq.loftman.co.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=31

Edited by kylepw

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This look exactly like a pair of old Levi's to me. Awesome!

Not sure if il ever get a pair, but if I get bored of all the crazy denim out there these are the shit!

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That leg twist is insane

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Tried them on when I was in Kyoto. Their denims were quite decent. Loved their denim shirt, in particular, but was just too pricey ... Just got a shirt @RMC & wasn't really in the market for another pair @the time.

Edited by BrownMetallic

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There is new UK based Boncoura stockist, on-line store, but they do have a show room in Peckham, South London (Only Fools and Horses land) and do the odd open days or by appointment.

 

Popped in today an purchased a pair of chino's but they also have the jeans in stock and a rather nice deck jacket. 

 

Nice set up with quite a few other Japanese brands. 

 

http://www.alphashadows.com 

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Picked these up the other day - Boncoura Z denim - slightly slimmer leg and taper than the 66 and Cynche versions but same denim, pink line selvedge but zip fly this time. Just breaking them in. Couple of pics not the best sorry.

43EC864B-36F1-4608-B7CD-3DEB921B8333_zps

0F5DDDB0-40CA-44CB-BF96-DF2AFC9A61D1_zps

Edited by Jambon

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We'll be stocking boncoura soon in the store

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We'll be stocking boncoura soon in the store

Damn Ed! I'm going to go broke because of you.

How muc are they? And which cuts are you bringing in?

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hi don! we have the xx cut the z type and the 66 cut and yeah the 66 white too!

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I must admit I saw a worn in pair the other week. Looked and felt luxurious. Definitely will get a pair when my current denim mountain subsidies

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Just soaked my size 34 50's ! Wow the leg twist is something else inswear the most ive seen on any japanese pair of jeans

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