Shoes that look better with age...

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Crat]

I'm a fan of the GY welt because, in my experience, its more durable.

I agree that a good blake is better than a crappy GY though.

When the shoe is resoled its my understanding that the GY welt may not have to be removed and the new (half)sole is best glued (Ugh, I know) to the existing welt. Should a new outsole be stitched to the welt the needle may not go through the existing holes if not done carefully and create new ones thus further perforating and weakening the welt. Therefore glueing is a better option. Gotta admit my glued Rendenbach half soles lasted me twice as long as the original Crockett soles on my first pair of benchgrades.

Because a blake sole is stitched immediately to the upper its my understanding that its more vulnerable especially when it comes to resoling. Not saying i'm right on this one but this is what I always was told by the folks at my local shoe shop. ( A good one)

Blake.

blake rapid

Blake stitching is usually visible on the inside of the shoe.

Goodyear

Here's how a Edward Green factory resoling is done. fantastic stuff. They replace the entire goodyear welt.

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010/05/how-great-things-age-edward-green-1.html

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010/05/how-great-things-age-edward-green-2.html

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010/05/how-great-things-age-edward-green-3.html

Edited January 20, 2013 by Crat

[Megatron1505]

Thank you, that was very clear and informative.

[patrick_b]

Crat & others, well done.

[Paul T]

Rapid Blake Vs Goodyear Welt

What are eveyones opinions? The shoe maker I am working with has expressed a preference for rapid blake over goodyear welt, but will switch to goodyear if I request it, some advice would be much appreciated.

The big difference, surely, is the profile. A blake is generally much slimmer and less chunky.

Received wisdom is that it's much easier to get a Goodywear Welt resole done; but if your shoes are custom-made, then if your maker can make a blake, he can resole a blake.

[Megatron1505]

It's for a retail range Paul, and he isn't exactly "local" for repairs

Interesting what you say about profile though, as I know his preference is for lower, slimmer toe profile, even on Americana style work boots.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Paul T]

It's a range really, brogue style oxfords, americana work boots, 40's service boots, plain toe painter shoes etc...

Ah... is this a new career venture?

Apart from all the practical differences laid out above, they do have a pretty different look and feel. The moment a brogue has a blake welt, to me, it looks more like a fashion item - that Italian influence, for instance many Paul Smith brogues have Blake Welts - and less like a traditional item of Brit country footwear. I don't quite understand the Sargent reference above, because the bulk of Sargent shoes I've seen have Goodyear or Veldt constrcution, all with that line of stitching visible. The same goes for most service boots.

If you're plannign a range of shoes, altho the constructional differences will have an effect on how easy it is to resole the items, and also how waterproof they are, the main USP is surely what they look like; the aesthetics. It's the difference in look that the punter will pick up on, rather than the implications of constructional details.

My own experience with Blake welts, like Coleslawyum below, has been pretty poor - mostly, they've been expensive, nice-looking Paul Smith boots that have fallen apart and couldn't take a resole. I didn't know enough then to search around for someone who might be able to do it; but it's been enough to put me off since then. But, if you want that look, then there's no killer argument against a Blake.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Paul T

[Crat]

I bet CTB outdid himself and got a double monk with opanca

The profile on a goodyear can be pretty slim btw, Paul.

Compare GY (left) to Blake Rapid (right). I agree blake usually tends to have a slimmer profile though.

Edited January 20, 2013 by Crat

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[coleslawyum]

There's a lot if good points presented here. Reading them is very enjoyable.

I find a Blake construction pretty useless when mated with a single outsole. You're basically counting the days before they fall apart. I've had many Blake shoes in the past, mostly made in Italy, and have paid through the nose for them. I didn't know anything about shoes at the time so most of them looked trashed after a few wears.

As mentioned before, a Blake/ Rapid is pretty solid, although the waist is a little stiffer. They're great for repairs since only the outsole needs to be replaced. In a sense it's similar to a welted shoe because only one sole needs to change.

I agree about the cotton ribbing in regards to the GY welt, but every shoemaker with a factory does it. We're talking Alden's, Red Wing, Chippewa, Edward Green, C&J, AS, Tricker's, etc, etc. The funny thing is that cowboy boot makers, like Rios Of Mercedes, utlilizes a machined method of directly attaching the welt to the insole. It's strange that at least some of these shoemakers should give that a go.

Whenever I send off my boots or shoes to Takeshi-San for repairs, I usually ask for a re-welt, its kind of an upgrade. He always hand welts the welt to insole. It's a little bit of overkill especially since some of the shoes I send him were used shoes I bought for less than $100. But I'm a fanboy, and I usually get a lot of eye rolls from the wife.

From my experience these two shoemakers seem to be able to do the impossible;

- Hand welted ready to wear shoes: St. Crispins

- Goodyear Welted shoes with a thin welt: Corthay

Edited January 21, 2013 by coleslawyum

[Crat]

- Goodyear Welted shoes with a thin welt: Corthay

The pair in the pic above

[bbcapone]

Whenever I send off my boots or shoes to Takeshi-San for repairs, I usually ask for a re-welt, its kind of an upgrade. He always hand welts the welt to the insole.

Please excuse me if this is a stupid question because im not very knowlegeable in shoes (and i exclusively wear boots) but could you explain the above quote? I was under the impression tha you would have to rewelt every time you resole a goodyear? Im surre thats a noob question but ehhh.

[Crat]

Some (not all!) cobblers just remove the outsole and stitch a new one onto the existing welt further perforating and thus weakening it. This is not good and often looks a bit like this.

Other cobblers remove the worndown part of the old outsole (the part that comes into contact with the ground) and glue a new half sole to the shoe. This is preferable to the above as the welt is not weakened but durability will depend on the skill of the cobbler. Both the existing outsole and the new half sole should be be tapered so that the latter won't fall off.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Crat

[Megatron1505]

A few pages back I asked if anyone might be interested in entering a "Heavyweight Boots Contest", just wondered if anyone might be interested in this if I could source a discount from one of our favourite American work boot manufacturers and retailers, on a classic competition specific style, which you could configure yourself.

[JHC76]

Mega - you are such an enabler. I'd very much consider depending on price and brand.

On that note, can I put up a kidney to sell on the marketplace or is that against SuFu regs?

[Megatron1505]

I take Kidneys as payment, and souls

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[JHC76]

Mega- I have no soul. I'm slightly ginger.

Hog- I don't think anyone wants my liver. Been soaked in too much single malt scotch.

[Megatron1505]

I am fully ginger, you have more soul than me.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[JHC76]

Maybe we can get a single malt scotch made for the competition

Beatle buster single malt. I'm thinking it needs to be very peaty to go along with heavy denim.

But back to the shoes and not totally hijack this thread-

Mega- have you already contacted a specific company or is this in the infancy stage? For me it'll depend on the brand and cost, but I am interested.

[Megatron1505]

The company is contacted, the discount is agreed in principle, it will be for a specific model, with a limited amount of leather and options to maintain a standard cost.

[JHC76]

Really really tempting. Looking forward to hearing more.

[Crat]

Single malt? Now your talking my language!

Ha! Actually I posted this in my native forum's whisky topic today : )

spoiler

It has a gingery aftertaste but misses soul...

Edited January 21, 2013 by Crat

[JHC76]

That's awesome. It's snowing where I am. Time to put the boots by the heater to dry out and grab some scotch!

[Crat]

Snowing here too. Cheers mate(s)!

[onehundy]

which boot company have you chosen? white, wesco?

[Maynard Friedman]

Ha! Actually I posted this in my native forum's whisky topic today : )

spoiler

It has a gingery aftertaste but misses soul...

It might have missed the sole but it's bang on the toe. Very nice Crat!

[Highvoltage]

A few pages back I asked if anyone might be interested in entering a "Heavyweight Boots Contest", just wondered if anyone might be interested in this if I could source a discount from one of our favourite American work boot manufacturers and retailers, on a classic competition specific style, which you could configure yourself.

I'm definitely interested, depending on details. I'm planning on a new boot purchase in the near future, but if what you have in the works suits me, I'll gladly hold off. The next two years are going to be a ton of fun. March/April are looking to be better than Christmas as far as acquiring new stuff is concerned...jeans, two belts, now boots...oh I forgot the By Beatle T, and the cap....awesome work!