Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Bona Drag]

didn't really say anything that's not old news to people on here, but there was a little blurb on the levi's museum on tonight's marketplace:

http://marketplace.publicradio.org/display/web/2008/06/16/corporate_museums/

you have to sit though a thing on the toyota museum (torrance STAND UP)

levi's bit starts around 24:45

[electrum]

...As far as I know, Cone (and the Japanese companies who, in general, make the lighter weight denim) still use mainly starch, which can be added before looming. Look at the later stages of the 'Selvage, setting the record straight' thread, which has great info on this and other subjects from ringring, takashi, neilfuji and others.

Oh and, contrary to the legend about ultra-rigid old denim, my understanding is that it's Sanforized, OE or wideloom denim, that's probably the most 'stiff'. A soak in starch, available even from supermarkets like Sainsbury's, will add that stiffness you're yearning for....

PT, Thanks for the heads up on the 'selvage, setting the record straight' thread. Very interesting and informative stuff for a history buff like myself. I'm sure there's similar info that I've missed -- sufu's format is not that easy to search through. Sometimes it's easier to get hung up on one thread and expect you guys to spoon feed info. that's already been posted here countless times. All I can say is that you guys have a helluva lot of patience. I'll start doing some serious fishing to see what other nuggets are out there. Again, thanks!

[Guest kyotousa]

what's the model of slimmest 501 and where can i get it?

[erk]

1966 501

www.cultizm.com

[mickolakis]

please post some pics of those pants!

Here's some piccys, got them around 2000ish... never seen a pair since then

Can post some more detailed pics if anyone's interested

[Paul T]

Those are lovely. These are a repro of the oldest pair of workpants in the archives, by which I mean a pair of pants that the company themselves kept since they were first made.

In the very early days, Levi's pants were made both in cotton duck and denim - the denim proved more popular. It was many years until some denim versions of these jeans turned up - as the Nevada, which Levi's had to pay $42,000 for. I think they're pretty much identical, except the Nevada has a ruler pocket on the thigh. These repros were made in Valencia St, the old Levi's factory, which is a nice extra.

(Edit: just like the old days, the cotton duck wasn't as popular as the denim, though, I remember loads being on sale at Regent St, and yes, they always seem to go to TK Maxx from there...)

[mickolakis]

Those are lovely. These are a repro of the oldest pair of workpants in the archives, by which I mean a pair of pants that the company themselves kept since they were first made.

In the very early days, Levi's pants were made both in cotton duck and denim - the denim proved more popular. It was many years until some denim versions of these jeans turned up - as the Nevada, which Levi's had to pay $42,000 for. I think they're pretty much identical, except the Nevada has a ruler pocket on the thigh. These repros were made in Valencia St, the old Levi's factory, which is a nice extra.

Lol scary thing was i picked them up in TKMaxx along with a pair of 201 xx 1937s in 2001 for about £30 each.

I didn't know they were LVC, i just througth they looked interesting

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Checked out the collection today. Cone makes all the red line selvedge and is pretty consistent with singeing the denim. Didn't love the denim on the 1927. Kurabo makes the plain white selvedge and I like it better.

701s are coming in raw, look wonderful and I also saw the original. AWESOME. Super high rise, very wide at the hip.

Theres also a 37 womens model, washed.

Got more info and pics but thats for later.

[superBobo]

Mickolakis,

are the pics down? Doesnt show for me, and Im very curious.

Im stil kicking myself for not getting the duck 1901 (right?) at cultizm a couple years back... need more duck pants!

[Paul T]

Checked out the collection today. Cone makes all the red line selvedge and is pretty consistent with singeing the denim. Didn't love the denim on the 1927. .

Is COne making the redline denim for the washed jeans, again? I'd heard it was coming from Italy at one point. And what's the 1927? (Don't think I've seen that for EUrope)

Edit: Superbobo, the cotton duck will be from 1880 or so, they're about the oldest Levi's known. I'm sure they'll still crop up on Ebay. THey were reintroduced very recently, I think spring 07, so there must be some knocking around.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Is COne making the redline denim for the washed jeans, again? I'd heard it was coming from Italy at one point. And what's the 1927? (Don't think I've seen that for EUrope)

The washed denim is mainly from Turkey, but distressed in Italy. Raw redline is Cone.

The 1927 is simply a 501 1927; buckle back, suspender buttons etc.

The natural indigo jeans are very nice btw, Kurabo denim and certainly greencast and a little streaky.

[Paul T]

The washed denim is mainly from Turkey, but distressed in Italy.

Is the denim from Turkey, too? At first the washed LVC used Cone fabric, made in the US, washed (some of it) in Italy. THen it was Cone fabric, jeans made and finished in Romania. THen Italian fabric, made and finished in Turkey. If they've changed again, I expect that sizing inconsistency will continue...

Were your people LVC Japan? And do they get the Euro range, with extras, as usual?

Also, I haven't got my notes in front of me, but I think the new EUro range had a 1880 Nevada type in synthetic indigo denim, and it was the 501 XX model in natural indigo. If you're in Japan, is it the same split? And did it have the correct single-line stitching on the yoke?

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Is the denim from Turkey, too? At first the washed LVC used Cone fabric, made in the US, washed (some of it) in Italy. THen it was Cone fabric, jeans made and finished in Romania. THen Italian fabric, made and finished in Turkey. If they've changed again, I expect that sizing inconsistency will continue...

Were your people LVC Japan? And do they get the Euro range, with extras, as usual?

Also, I haven't got my notes in front of me, but I think the new EUro range had a 1880 Nevada type in synthetic indigo denim, and it was the 501 XX model in natural indigo. If you're in Japan, is it the same split? And did it have the correct single-line stitching on the yoke?

Now, that's a tough question. I didn't take notes but we will be emailing so I will make sure to get the denim supplier right. Just reading your first question made me unsure!

I'm sure the washed denim is not from Cone nor Kurabo but Turkey and/or Italy, and I think washes are mostly made in Italy.

Romania seems to be out of the picture.

I'm still in Sweden and I talked to the Swedish guys. Japan still gets the line designed in Brussels I think it was, that is common for all markets, with some extras.

The natural indigo jean is coming and I have pictures of it. It did have the single-stitched yoke.

[superBobo]

Edit: Superbobo, the cotton duck will be from 1880 or so, they're about the oldest Levi's known. I'm sure they'll still crop up on Ebay. THey were reintroduced very recently, I think spring 07, so there must be some knocking around.

Thanks Paul, I occasionally see the 1880 ducks on ebay, but the ones cultizm had had two back pockets, but no belt loops, so I pretty positive they were 1901s. I really hope LVC reintroduces some more duck pants.

Looking forward to the 1920 cords (like the ones in your book I presume) this f/w.

[Paul T]

THe cords are lovely, in the photos at least. It's these slightly quirky items that I wish LVC would do more of - they do seem to be getting the picture, though, with items like the Sunset shirt brought back, plus the 333. I bet Cotton Duck would appreciate the appearance of the Spring Bottom pants, we must be due for them soon.

I've only seen the Oldest Oldest natural indigo jeans briefly, and I do hope Kurabo get the denim right. The last time round, although unwashed they looked good with a lovely irregular twill line and very 'ropey' texture, they looked horribly bland after one wash - and the denim hardly shrank at all.

This is how they should have looked:

And this is what we got...

(same model jeans here:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=178242&postcount=30 )

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

these are 1873s above, right!?

[Paul T]

Supposedly, yes.

[Charlie Delta]

Paul, these Springbottoms you speak of, did they do them once before already?

Super lightblue denim, tape at the hem, came in a cloth/cotton bag?

I've seen those in Berlin a couple of years back and was strangly attracted to them, but I don't remember them well enough to say if I think I could pull them off...

[Shorty Long]

Here's some pics of '44s...I bought these rigid in 04 or 05. Taken in direct sunlight, so the dark bits don't jump out as they would to the naked eye.

[fatgecko]

Sorry if this veered off topic. Received a number of offers via PMs, thanks but as quick blanket announcement, I have passed on the leather suspender (above pic) to my bro.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

THe cords are lovely, in the photos at least. It's these slightly quirky items that I wish LVC would do more of - they do seem to be getting the picture, though, with items like the Sunset shirt brought back, plus the 333. I bet Cotton Duck would appreciate the appearance of the Spring Bottom pants, we must be due for them soon.

I've only seen the Oldest Oldest natural indigo jeans briefly, and I do hope Kurabo get the denim right. The last time round, although unwashed they looked good with a lovely irregular twill line and very 'ropey' texture, they looked horribly bland after one wash - and the denim hardly shrank at all.

This is how they should have looked:

And this is what we got...

(same model jeans here:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=178242&postcount=30 )

It's more than a little confusing, but the natural indigo pair is the "1873 XX First Blue Jean" and the Olded Oldest is synthetic indigo, modelled after a 1875 pair. Both denim from Kurabo and I've seen the natural indigo onewash and slightly used. It looks good but I dunno if it looks like the original in your pic.

[40ozprophet]

The Levis store I work at is having a huge sale, including 50% off some LVC models. Think I'll pick up the 1971 517s today.

[Shorty Long]

Sale is also on their website

[Paul T]

It's more than a little confusing, but the natural indigo pair is the "1873 XX First Blue Jean" and the Olded Oldest is synthetic indigo, modelled after a 1875 pair. .

That's what I saw... altho whether the XX jeans from which the '1873' is copied comes from that actual year is another matter.

Did they mention where they're going to manufacture now Taylor Togs has closed?

Edit: I just received more information from Lynn Downey.

LEvi's believe the Nevada and the 'new' jean, the XX - shown above - are from around the same period. THey're dating the Nevada as 1880, and the XX as 1879. The 'Nevada' was an alternative line to the XX, with a more workwear cut, while the XX was renamed the 501 around 1890. Whereas the Nevada had a central patch, the ruler pocket, and a distinctive back pocket, the XX had a patch on the right, no ruler pocket, and a single back pocket that's much more like the later ones.

Earlier in this thread we've discussed a few 'early' or 'first blue jean' replica that share some features of the XX - but there's been no precise replica AFAIK, because for a start the XX should have the single line of stitching at the yoke, like the jeans above (even 'The Vault' from fall 07 had this error). I'm puzzled it's taken them so long to make an accurate version... I hope they've nailed it now.

[z_ace]

I didn't know where to put this since i'm not a levis expert at all..

so i was at this vintage store some days ago (they sold stuff from the 40's-80's i think) and i thought why not to take a look at the levis jeans.

taking pics was a bit hard because the woman working there was giving me strange looks so the quality is very bad ( anyway i only had my cell with me)

first there was a pair of 501's with a redtab that only hat the "R" on it:

next there were two pairs of orange tab and yellow stiching :

these pics belong to the second orange tab jeans :

and then i saw some capital "E" 501's with a zip fly :

anybody can say anything about them ? I guess the pics are not really big of a help but as I said i couldn't really do any better ..

they also had some really odd looking APC's with a huge bootcut i've never seen before..but i guess APC isn't all that old anyway

thanks guys !

[Paul T]

Blank red tab is not significant, they're modern jeans (a proportion of Levi's tabs have been blank since the late 70s for copyright reasons).

Orange tab can be great jeans, those don't look it.

As for the Capital E, could be 502 or other, and interesting, would need better pix!

[z_ace]

so is it worth to get some better pics of the capital E's ? or will they be worthless anyway ? i mean i'm willing to pick them up for a collector or anything but as I said, i don't know anything about them and i'm not sure what i should be looking for exactly

[Paul T]

so is it worth to get some better pics of the capital E's ? or will they be worthless anyway ? i mean i'm willing to pick them up for a collector or anything but as I said, i don't know anything about them and i'm not sure what i should be looking for exactly

Did they look anything like these??

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=51580

[z_ace]

hm the thing is, as the picture shows the patch says "501" not "502" so i doubt it

[lenn]

i'm wondering if you guys could help me out. my gf would like a pair of jeans that will fit in this way:

would a pair say, '54 501's do, or would this be some sort of lady's jean?