Jump to content
Westbrook

Acronym.

Recommended Posts

On 12/25/2019 at 1:35 PM, andrewlb said:

 

Thoughts on the J59-GT

Haven’t seen anything about this jacket, so wanted to share my experience with it (since there are a few left, I think). I posted this on reddit as well, so more of a “I hope this helps those on the fence“ kinda post. I’ve really enjoyed this jacket.

 

1month ago

Just got it today in medium. I’m 182cm/78kg, athletic. It’s a big and boxy fit, but by manipulating the zipper and the pull cord, you actually have a lot of control over the silhouette, which is the main thing I want to hit on. All the specs and similar are online and the product imagery is pretty spot on to reality.

It’s modeled after the MA-1, which is what originally drew me to it. I’ve wanted an MA-1 forever, and have a few other jackets in that family like the Buzz Rickson Gibson B15, and a Rickson A2. But I’ve resisted getting an MA-1. I hadn’t found an option that felt quite right and there a something about the details on that kinda flight jacket that feel foreign to me. I get the same sense when I wear the B15, with its vestigial arm pocket and detailing that’s plenty useful as a pilot, a bit less so as a pedestrian.

Anyway, seeing the J59-GT, I felt like I was seeing the thing I didn’t quite know I was looking for. A weather shield that looked like an MA-1 if you squint, but also feels like something distinct.

When it arrived, I was initially a bit unhappy. The frame felt somehow bigger than I expected, especially as someone who usually wears more fitted clothes. But after walking around a bit and seeing how the jacket settled and moved, I think what I had interpreted as bagginess was actually the structure of the fabric and the internal volume mimicking the shapes and contours of a nylon and wool constructed MA-1. With the lines of the pockets and the manipulation made possible with the draw cord, it took on the shape of the MA-1 and (insofar as that shape is structure) actually creates a very structured overall look.

This jacket presents an interesting opportunity to explore alternatives to (what I had understood as) the streamlined tech wear silhouette. Especially as someone who has been drawn to military surplus and workwear, there is something to the material efficiency of a lot of tech wear (and the way it almost diminishes the wearer) that I’ve never loved. Conversely, military and workwear have a lot of form-follows-function staples that present that function efficiently from an economic perspective, but not a material one. Just have the wearer do more squats if they complain. Anyway, my frustration is that often with tech wear I feel like the individual disappears behind the clothes, maybe as a protest to the commodification of identity and information in our current age. This jacket doesn’t do that, and it feels a bit less like it’s wearing you. It also feels a bit less “tech wear” perhaps, though I think my definition there is a bit limited.

Anyway, my intent with this jacket is to wear it heavily, casually, and across a bunch of needs. So will report back on how it survives. Big points of concern are the zipper and the Goretex stretching ribbing. It seems pretty solid, but especially around the hands I imagine that level of contact with that kind of material will lead to sweat and potentially material degradation. But hopefully this’ll be a key piece for years. Hope this helps, 

https://acrnm.com/products/J59-GT_SS19

Also a thought:
https://www.heddels.com/2015/03/william-gibson-interview-buzz-rickson-line-tech-wear-limits-authenticity/

 

—-

Today
One month in, I love this thing.

Some big things:
- Silhouette is very flexible thanks to the draw string and dual zipper. I’ve found the sweet spot for me, but have actually manipulated it from time to time depending on what I’m looking for that day. Definitely a more casual look.
- The pockets are huge and useful, but zip them closed. Somewhere in Copenhagen, there is an outlier beanie that slipped out. I wish there was a bit of a well under the zipped area to catch such things.
- The hood is awesome. I’ve also swapped it on and off again depending on what I’m looking for.
- The chest snap is key. It basically lets the j59 semi-structured silhouette work without being zipped shut.
- The 2L at the cuffs seems to work fine and has been nice in the incredibly windy Denmark. Still slightly worried about a sweat and oil collection there but haven’t noticed anything yet.
- I’m a backpack person primarily, and sadly it looks kind of sloppy with a backpack. I usually wear a messenger bag with it now.
- I have an 8mo old who I often cart around in an ergobaby chest harness, and this thing somehow makes that look okay layered over the harness and open at the front. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

Anyway, all told a big purchase that I was nervous about, but I’ve been super happy. I think I will get a more structured acronym jacket as well, but down the road and likely not in GT. 

Let me know if you have any questions, as there still seem to be one or two on the site.

Do you know what the round velcro patch on the left sleeve and the square velcro patch on the front pocket are for? Are they just for sticking a velcro accessory on?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, HumphreytheWarrior said:

Do you know what the round velcro patch on the left sleeve and the square velcro patch on the front pocket are for? Are they just for sticking a velcro accessory on?

Yeah ... you can put some military badges on there should you wish as per the J16-GT Velcro shoulder flaps. I don’t believe there is any other technical reason for those. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, HumphreytheWarrior said:

Do you know what the round velcro patch on the left sleeve and the square velcro patch on the front pocket are for? Are they just for sticking a velcro accessory on?

The square one is an affordance for the chest snap. The shoulder one I think is just decorative.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I fantasize of an Acronym down jacket. I suppose the closest thing we currently have is the j65-ws.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, jeddyhsu said:

I fantasize of an Acronym down jacket. I suppose the closest thing we currently have is the j65-ws.

J58-WS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, jeddyhsu said:

I fantasize of an Acronym down jacket. I suppose the closest thing we currently have is the j65-ws.

J78 got that slim puffy down feel 

Edited by Kamikaze

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm shopping for moto gear, and i'm finding it increasingly ironic how much inspiration some ACR stuff gets from that realm but the functionality of the pants and jackets is largely limited to urban commuter. would be nice to see functionality taken to the next level; not just made for walking. i might wear some armor under my bulkier pants like p24, but for the most part these pieces are aching for cordura, leather, and accommodating armor inserts. also would fill a nice gap in the market because unless you're sacrificing protection, proper "cool" riding gear doesn't exist. all very heavily branded and function obvious. 

Edited by nodre
spelling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, nodre said:

i'm shopping for moto gear, and i'm finding it increasingly ironic how much inspiration some ACR stuff gets from that realm but the functionality of the pants and jackets is largely limited to urban commuter. would be nice to see functionality taken to the next level; not just made for walking. i might wear some armor under my bulkier pants like p24, but for the most part these pieces are aching for cordura, leather, and accommodating armor inserts. also would fill a nice gap in the market because unless you're sacrificing protection, proper "cool" riding gear doesn't exist. all very heavily branded and function obvious. 

Yeah, the inspiration is pretty clear there. What’s interesting is a lot of the moto gear gets either nostalgic or branded, whereas Acr feels like it takes that nostalgia and function, and then looks forward instead of backwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy New Year from Australia, Acrnm stans :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/31/2019 at 9:19 PM, nathan_ said:

Happy New Year from Australia, Acrnm stans :) 

aubrey is that u lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, nathan_ said:

@moneytalks doxxed :mellow:

it me, daniel of the internets

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I noticed some subtle trends that quite a few number of users are leaving the brand(me too with cutting down some collections but I’ll still stick with those best of best designs, thank god they still good enough for future of the days).

 

Knowing it’s destiny but how you guys estimate the final curtain of it? Yeah you might name it too pessimistic but I definitely might call it true as it still a small business and could fade away any soon.

 

Like too much recycled designs, or the still skyrocketing prices or no else new one entering the market as new users supporting the game?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Xu Jianfeng said:

Personally I noticed some subtle trends that quite a few number of users are leaving the brand(me too with cutting down some collections but I’ll still stick with those best of best designs, thank god they still good enough for future of the days).

 

Knowing it’s destiny but how you guys estimate the final curtain of it? Yeah you might name it too pessimistic but I definitely might call it true as it still a small business and could fade away any soon.

 

Like too much recycled designs, or the still skyrocketing prices or no else new one entering the market as new users supporting the game?

Considering prices aren't slowing down and keep increasing and general quality, although still pretty good but has significantly decreased from previous collections I personally see acronym becoming more of an archival brand with users buying more and more second hand previous generation styles instead of the newer ones, I'll still support E whatever he does regardless but can't see many newer people staying on with him

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

still hopefull for a 3A7TS & 3A9TS OLIVE to be available in a random drop_

 

Edited by daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't mind the reissues as it gives people the chance to purchase an item which they might've missed out on in possibly a new color or fabric with slight upgrades. (looking for a j28 in the new encapsulated nylon fabric or goretex with a new shakedry fast hood.) i'm sure most were pleased with the j36 reissue.

thing with the prices going up you can be more picky with which pieces to buy. can't wait to see whats to come for this year.

Edited by Kamikaze

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

People talk like reissues are a problem. I'm for one am super glad reissues happen every season. Especially more wanted/in demand pieces. Better than paying resell market price.

Not only that, it's not like that's the only thing the team is doing every drop. Theres consistantly new designs to go with older reissues when there is a seasonal drop. Get the best of both worlds. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, daniel said:

still hopefull for a 3A7TS & 3A9TS OLIVE to be available in a random drop_

 

I luckily was able to buy a 3A-9TS used but in good condition last year. It was the Beauty and Youth limited edition. They aren't going to be re-releasing anytime soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, nodre said:

evolution rather than revolution

the garments are hollow - the people who wear them are what is interesting. 

sums it up perfectly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really hope that the brand could go back to SS18 times. Many releases of that season has been my favorite so far (J72, J47A-WS, J66, P30, J1A-GTV, SP28TS-DS, J73-WS, J69-GT, J59TS-CH, J68-S).

Also very happy that reissues are coming now and then, but quality is kinda declining? (For example p30 to p30a where i find p30 is more superior in terms of construction, pocket size etc, LA6B-AD breaking down easily.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think Acronym is going anywhere (out of business), at least not anytime soon. Brands have to evolve and Acronym seems to have evolved into a bit more of a flashy, overt brand rather than the more subtle "anti-consumerism" brand it was before I got into it. I noticed it mostly with the release of the Volt jackets, but I don't think it's much to complain about. I think the new stuff is great, steep price but I can't speak for the quality. All I'm waiting for is a "throwback" J-1A with the old style flak pocket and in Stotz, I love my EJ-1A but time has not been kind to the Epich fabric in certain places.

A quick question, does anyone know of any Acronym trousers with an inseam that is longer than 32 inches? I'm way too tall for most of them, my P9-S are about 3 inches too short so I have to wear them with my DAF-1's or I look ridiculous, might get them tapered so I can just wear them a bit below the waist and look okay. Also, anyone know if there's a method to restore the "hook" on aged velcro? The soft side is okay, but the hooks are a bit bent outwards. I was thinking maybe carefully applying heat and pressing down? Thanks, hope we all get something cool next release. 

Edited by DavidMN

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, DavidMN said:

A quick question, does anyone know of any Acronym trousers with an inseam that is longer than 32 inches? 

I don't know exact measurements but the P14s are definitely the longest i have. They're designed to be worn higher up the waist but i wear them on my hips and roll the bottoms. I've worn my P14-CH in melange so much, they've actually started wearing through on the knees. Closest pants you can get to jeans made by Acrnm imho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not P10? @DavidMN

Probably better to go off outseam anyways since the rise vary so much bw models.

3FF7B269-3452-4E2A-B6A8-4A387397B1ED.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@wexler I've been considering P10 but they're somewhat price prohibitive- guess that comes with the territory though. I'm not very good with pants measurements, and like you say the rise on ACR pants are so varied (drop crotch, high waisted, etc) it's kind of difficult for me to interpret. Basically I'm size 30 waist (hip really) 34" inseam. The lack of any real archival for Acronym products makes me finding reliable measurements for older releases especially difficult, though I often assume older = bigger, at least that's true for the more skater "baggy" fit styles of like 08. 

 

Again, appreciate all the replies!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

older is not neccesarily bigger. i have a P9-S size M that fits pretty slim and ends right above my shoes and i'm 183cm and a size 32.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now