The Flat Head

[unorthodox]

On 1/14/2020 at 1:02 PM, gfarina55 said:

Thx for the info Cold Summer! Unfortunately they're a bit tight on me and they've been in the closet for years. Hoping to find someone interested in them here.

How much are you asking?

[gfarina55]

Responded to a couple inquiries via PM, but I think $190 PP'd/Shipped CONUS seems fair for the 3001s? A couple more photos:

[vgadjo]

Just after a wash, around 14 months of wear, 4-5 wash. I have to repair the crotch asap.

Cheers

[lance]

Great evo, Vgadjo, lovin those arcs!

[Cold Summer]

The last pic is a great example of something I love on faded Flat Heads, the "shadow" around the arcs where the denim is a little darker than the rest of the pocket. And the yellow stitching just looks great after it's faded a bit.

[Cold Summer]

Here's a blog post I wrote about my favorite Flat Head shirt.

[mpukas]

Sitting in my car, waiting for a meeting, I tried to capture the texture and color of the 3202 20oz denim. The light was good, but the smart phone camera washed out the color. The texture is visible, and we can start to different hues evolving. This is at 3 months daily wear since the DWC2 ended. They had about 2 weeks wear prior to this 3 months. 1 wash when new, and a 2nd wash after the first 2 weeks. The denim has soften up quite a bit after about 4-5 weeks, but still gnarly AF. This denim is fading fairly slowly. It's so saturated w/ dye that my hands are constantly blue. Everytime I brush against a painted wall, they leave a blue mark. They're due for a wash and crotch seam repair. 

[SmokeStackLightning]

@julian-wolf any updates on those S2004?

[julian-wolf]

^ Shoot, took some photos a few weeks ago but I guess I forgot to post them. Thanks for the reminder—will try to this weekend.

The consensus is that they seem like real great jeans, but that I don't think the fit's gonna work out for me. If anyone's on the market, let me know: TFH S2004 33x36, washed once and worn 3 times. Will post measurements, etc., along with the photos. Pretty bummed, honestly.

[SmokeStackLightning]

Yeah that is a bummer. The color on them looks very nice.

A 33 may be a bit small for me waist wise after shrinking, but I will certainly take a look once you post them.

[Iron Horse]

16 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

Here's a blog post I wrote about my favorite Flat Head shirt.

Good post; regarding the selvedge gussets, that’s a period-correct retail, though not all brands used it in the past.

Here’s a selvedge gusset on a 1930s chambray work shirt I have:

Edited January 31, 2020 by Iron Horse

[1fookntitefd]

Can someone with experience provide insight on shrinkage between the 14.5 oz, 16oz, and 18 oz denim? I’m eyefucking a pair of 1002 or 8002 in SE’s warehouse sale but want to know what shrinkage is like. My 3002’s lost 2 inches in the waist and half an inch in the thigh and knee. So did my RJBs. Wondering if i can expect more or less with the 16 and 18 oz versions.

[mpukas]

I can only offer my experience w/ the 3202 20oz denim. He are my measurements for a size 34: raw; cold soaked, hot wash, hot dryer, steam iron; and worn 3 months. This denim was/is so thick, heavy and stiff it was really hard to get accurate back rise measurements. 

Waist, flat across the front: 17/34, 16/32, 16.5/33

Waist, front and back aligned: 17.5/35, 16.25/32.5, 17/34 

Front rise: 11.75, 11, 11

Back rise: 15.25, 15.5, 15.5 

Thigh at crotch: 13, 12.5, 12.875 

Thigh 2" down: 11.75, 11.375, 11.5 

Knee 14" down: 8.875, 8.5, 8.5 

Hem: 8.125, 7.875, 7.875 

Inseam: 36.5, 35.125, then hemmed 

[mpukas]

update after 3 months daily wear on my TFH 3202 20oz denim. Time for a wash and off to RFG for a crotch seam repair. The grime below the back of the left knee is from mag chloride road grime on the rocker panel of my car. The upper thighs are tight on me, and range of motion/mobility is very restricted. Just bending down to tie my shoes or pick up something off the floor is challening and stresses the crotch seam a lot. Still, infatuated with these for now... 

These pics were taken w/ Samsung Galaxy S9+ cam phone, auto settings, inside, shades drawn and very dark light. Colors are fairly true. 

[mpukas]

And some shots taken outside on cover deck, cloudy day, not in direct light. Colors are very washed out. 

[SmokeStackLightning]

@1fookntitefd only have experience with the 14.5 and 16 oz fabrics. 

The 16 oz shrinks less. 

[1fookntitefd]

Thanks. Anyone have post shrink measurements of a pair of 1002 or 8002 in size 38 by any chance?

[j0el2]

My old 3009s fit after shedding some pounds. 

Going to drop me off at SESF for a proper hem and repair. 

 

 

[lance]

Nice evo!

[Smallrod]

5 hours ago, 1fookntitefd said:

Can someone with experience provide insight on shrinkage between the 14.5 oz, 16oz, and 18 oz denim? I’m eyefucking a pair of 1002 or 8002 in SE’s warehouse sale but want to know what shrinkage is like. My 3002’s lost 2 inches in the waist and half an inch in the thigh and knee. So did my RJBs. Wondering if i can expect more or less with the 16 and 18 oz versions.

3XXX and 1XXX denim will shrink the same but 1XXX denim will stretch out much quicker.  

[Muck Dynasty]

1 hour ago, Smallrod said:

3XXX and 1XXX denim will shrink the same but 1XXX denim will stretch out much quicker.  

Does the 1XXX stretch more or less than 3XXX too, not just faster? Or will it stretch to the same proportions? 
 

Does anyone have any input at all regarding 8XXX?

[Muck Dynasty]

7 hours ago, 1fookntitefd said:

Can someone with experience provide insight on shrinkage between the 14.5 oz, 16oz, and 18 oz denim? I’m eyefucking a pair of 1002 or 8002 in SE’s warehouse sale but want to know what shrinkage is like. My 3002’s lost 2 inches in the waist and half an inch in the thigh and knee. So did my RJBs. Wondering if i can expect more or less with the 16 and 18 oz versions.

Same boat. 3002 fit fine and totally wearable, but wondering if sizing up would be more comfortable. I don’t want to size up if they stretch too much, don’t want them to get too saggy, I can tolerate  a day or so of less-than-optimal comfort to stretch back out, but I don’t want them to stretch to baggy-ish for comfort straight from the wash. 

[Smallrod]

2 hours ago, Muck Dynasty said:

Does the 1XXX stretch more or less than 3XXX too, not just faster? Or will it stretch to the same proportions? 
 

Does anyone have any input at all regarding 8XXX?

I would say they eventually stretch the same.  My 1001 would be comfortable and stretched back pre-wash within a day whereas my 3xxx would take a week or two.  

[Muck Dynasty]

1 hour ago, Smallrod said:

I would say they eventually stretch the same.  My 1001 would be comfortable and stretched back pre-wash within a day whereas my 3xxx would take a week or two.  

Thank you for the feedback

[1fookntitefd]

Been wearing these Every weekend for the last year or so. 5 washes.

[julian-wolf]

buncha S2004 photos, all pre-soak

 

[julian-wolf]

After a soak, the fabric's darkened up substantially, but remains more blue (i.e., less dark) than most. It's super soft to the touch, feels like the yarns must be really loosely spun or something. They're really comfortable to wear for short periods of time, but the lower rise becomes uncomfortable for me after a few hours, which is a bummer. Measurements follow, both pre-soak and after a trip through the machine on medium + 3 days' wear. All are given in inches:

Waist: 34.5 / 34

Inseam: 37.25 / 34

Front rise: 11.75 / 11.25

Rear rise: 16.25 / 115.5

Thigh (@ crotch): 13.23 / 13

Thigh (2" down): 12.75 / 12.5

Hem: 10 / 9.25

[SmokeStackLightning]

They look good @julian-wolf nice photos.

Wonder what year those were modeled after. Inseam shrank a ton but waist and thighs barely moved (in comparison to Pioneer denim).

 

[julian-wolf]

Thanks. Yeah, overall they didn't seem to shrink much. The waist went down to about 33" in the wash, but stretched back out very quickly. Supposedly, the cut's based on war-model Levi's, but I honestly can't see any similarities—they're not much of a repro, just a neat pair of pants.

[1fookntitefd]

On 2/1/2020 at 3:57 PM, Muck Dynasty said:

Does the 1XXX stretch more or less than 3XXX too, not just faster? Or will it stretch to the same proportions? 
 

Does anyone have any input at all regarding 8XXX?

Just Impulse ordered a pair of 1002 so we’ll find out soon lol