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The Flat Head

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The reason TFH sells shirts is that most people don't care about or cannot assess how a shirt (should) fit. Personally, I find the droopy shoulders look horrible. I have a couple TFH that fit reasonably well when I'm in good shape (not right now).  Everybody has to make their own choices. There's no arguing that TFH's shirt measurements are "wrong" for most people. Saying "the shirts fit me great; I've learned to not care about the droopy shoulders" is self contradictory.

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1 hour ago, JDelage said:

The reason TFH sells shirts is that most people don't care about or cannot assess how a shirt (should) fit. Personally, I find the droopy shoulders look horrible. I have a couple TFH that fit reasonably well when I'm in good shape (not right now).  Everybody has to make their own choices. There's no arguing that TFH's shirt measurements are "wrong" for most people. Saying "the shirts fit me great; I've learned to not care about the droopy shoulders" is self contradictory.

This is a little ridiculous.  I don't believe there is a proper way a shirt (or a pair of jeans for that matter) should fit.  We're not talking about tailored menswear here, we're talking about flannel shirts and jeans.  The moment we start applying traditional menswear/suiting rules to this is when it stops being fun.  

In the end what we talk about here in Superdenim is more "fashion" than most things represented on Saville Row whether or not anyone here would admit to it.  There are well known brands which built a reputation off creating a certain fit which was restrictive to some but perfect for others, where the silhouettes were polarizing to buyers.  Band Of Outsiders is a perfect example, they went from underground cult brand in the early days to a huge International brand, and the first three years was Style Forum users arguing about how their fits were way too slim or way too tapered in the mid-section, but they found their target audience and went with it.  It's hard to apply silhouette rules to a brand that's been doing something (successfully) for over 20 years.

Edited by kiya

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On 1/5/2018 at 9:12 PM, gazeboarder said:

I feel most of the Flat Head shirts have a weird fit with really wide shoulders and then a tight chest measurement and a tight bottom opening.  In almost every picture you can see how the shoulders tend to be too wide.  With that said I have two flannel work shirts that fit okay but neither fit as good as any of my Iron heart shirts.  The fabrics are amazing but I just wish the fits were better.  I'm not sure of this but maybe wide shoulders with a tight chest is a good fit for the average Japanese customer.  I'm 6'3" 200 lbs so I understand I'm not the target Flat Head customer.  With that said the shoulder measurements on both of my size 46 shirts are a little too wide for my liking.  I also have a UES Indigo Flannel shirt and a Nine Lives shirt that I feel fits better than the Flat Head shirts.  Do others feel the same way?

Yes! I feel the same way. I'm close to your size, 6'0" 210 lbs. I absolutely love TFH fabrics, I just wish they would accommodate guys like you and I who aren't male models with zero body fat. 

On 1/6/2018 at 2:42 PM, Smallrod said:

The taper is what gets me.  I don't like anything snug around my mid section and its even worse if you sit down...just not comfortable.   I have a few shirts that are fine but for the most part, they don't work for me and it took me a while to finally accept this.  

I've purchased 2 button downs from them, and I've taken both to the tailor to remove the taper they put in their shirts. Luckily they sew in the taper on the back of the shirt. It gives me that extra 1/2" at least to make it fit around my waist a little better. But I don't know if they taper all of their shirts that way.

On 1/6/2018 at 6:59 PM, kiya said:

FYI, starting SS18 WR (wide) shirts are no longer being made.

Can you define a "wide" shirt? 46 and 48 sizes are no longer going to be made I presume?

That would be a shame, because I think Masayoshi Kobayashi is completely ignoring a whole lot of middle aged men who can afford his clothes but can't quite fit into them. Not all of us are "v" shaped athletes with no body fat. Rivet and Hide supplied a few shirts in 48 and they sold out of that size quickly. Me being one of the reasons why. 

Really I'm just venting. TFH is one of the coolest brands I've come across and the fact they can't accommodate most men sizes is confusing to me. 

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Maybe I'm an outlier but I like having shirts and pants that fit differently. I think if all the brands fit the same and followed some arbitrary "rule" of how clothes should fit, it'd take the excitement out of trying new clothes. I enjoy that my Flat Head shirts fit very differently than my Iron Heart, Stevenson, Sugar Cane, 3sixteen, etc shirts much like I like having different styles of shirts/jackets/pants.

I disagree that Flat Head's measurements are "wrong" because I've seen plenty of people of all different sizes wear flat head and it looks good. I've talked to many people who prefer the flat head fit versus for instance iron heart. Based on the logic that 'it doesnt fit certain groups of people so it must be wrong" then all brands are all wrong because there is no brand that fits everyone. 

Edited by youngofthesoonest

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On 08/01/2018 at 5:38 AM, youngofthesoonest said:

Maybe I'm an outlier but I like having shirts and pants that fit differently. I think if all the brands fit the same and followed some arbitrary "rule" of how clothes should fit, it'd take the excitement out of trying new clothes. I enjoy that my Flat Head shirts fit very differently than my Iron Heart, Stevenson, Sugar Cane, 3sixteen, etc shirts much like I like having different styles of shirts/jackets/pants.

I disagree that Flat Head's measurements are "wrong" because I've seen plenty of people of all different sizes wear flat head and it looks good. I've talked to many people who prefer the flat head fit versus for instance iron heart. Based on the logic that 'it doesnt fit certain groups of people so it must be wrong" then all brands are all wrong because there is no brand that fits everyone. 

In a nutshell 

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My f310s look set for there first wash, after digging a ditch for getting electricity to the shed they're covered in mud. 

Only 6 weeks of wear but after seeing the often washed pair from @itsbenherenot too worried about too much washing

Edited by Scottishblue
Spelling

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Got some new boots...

Flat Head Medallion Boots, made of black Chromexcel leather with a quilted cowhide shaft, Vibram #700 sole, and custom FH cast steel buckles.   They're super comfortable right out of the box, which is always a huge plus for me as I can't really handle breaking in stiff boots.

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Love the little details! and the top part seems very confortable, almost like a leather couch for the ankles !

Edited by Collin

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17 minutes ago, Scottishblue said:

Wow @kiya beautiful boots

Any idea what the purpose of that small hole in the heal is? Just to get the shape?

I was told that it's from using a nail there to keep the boots on the last while they're being made. 

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Those boots are seriously cool, and don't really look like anything I've seen before. Love it when Flat Head tries totally new stuff.

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On 1/9/2018 at 2:09 PM, Scottishblue said:

My f310s look set for there first wash, after digging a ditch for getting electricity to the shed they're covered in mud. 

Only 6 weeks of wear but after seeing the often washed pair from @itsbenherenot too worried about too much washing

In my opinion, if you're wearing them everyday, it's almost impossible to wash them enough that they won't look good.

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3 hours ago, Radiohead89 said:

Not sure how this happened but somehow I already got a tear in my F310’s

1AA7AB15-C566-41C1-B147-B5CE26742667.png

Looks to me like abrasion from that pocket corner. I get those if I don't get enough starch out of a pair when new, and/or don't wash frequently enough. It depends on the denim of course, some stuff like full count seems too soft right off the bat for abrasion like that to occur. They don't use very much starch either. 

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I've had similar before from sitting on a rough bench and the jeans snagging 

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1 hour ago, Radiohead89 said:

Is it best to get it repaired now?

In my opinion the sooner the better if you want to prevent it to "spread". You could do it yourself sashimi style or with a machine if you have one, shouldn't be too difficult.

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1 hour ago, Collin said:

In my opinion the sooner the better if you want to prevent it to "spread". You could do it yourself sashimi style or with a machine if you have one, shouldn't be too difficult.

i think you mean sashiko

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33 minutes ago, FreeCharlesManson said:

i think you mean sashiko

Aha definitely, stupid french autocorrect...

 

 

Edit : found an pretty decent Glory park short sleeved shirt on grailed in size 42 for those who might be interested in this grail items: https://www.grailed.com/listings/4219912-The-Flat-Head-The-Flat-Head-Indigo-Dyed-Selvedge-Linen-Shirt--Size-42--Medium-Self-Edge-

@Claytonimus @dudewuttheheck

 

Edited by Collin

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8 hours ago, Collin said:

Aha definitely, stupid french autocorrect...

 

 

Edit : found an pretty decent Glory park short sleeved shirt on grailed in size 42 for those who might be interested in this grail items: https://www.grailed.com/listings/4219912-The-Flat-Head-The-Flat-Head-Indigo-Dyed-Selvedge-Linen-Shirt--Size-42--Medium-Self-Edge-

@Claytonimus @dudewuttheheck

 

Copped! Good looking out man. I have been looking for one of these for years. Thank you so much!!

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11 hours ago, Collin said:

found an pretty decent Glory park short sleeved shirt on grailed in size 42 for those who might be interested in this grail items: https://www.grailed.com/listings/4219912-The-Flat-Head-The-Flat-Head-Indigo-Dyed-Selvedge-Linen-Shirt--Size-42--Medium-Self-Edge-

@Claytonimus @dudewuttheheck

 

Not my size but thanks for the heads up!

Congrats dudewhattheheck!

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On 1/8/2018 at 12:38 AM, youngofthesoonest said:

Maybe I'm an outlier but I like having shirts and pants that fit differently. I think if all the brands fit the same and followed some arbitrary "rule" of how clothes should fit, it'd take the excitement out of trying new clothes. I enjoy that my Flat Head shirts fit very differently than my Iron Heart, Stevenson, Sugar Cane, 3sixteen, etc shirts much like I like having different styles of shirts/jackets/pants.

I disagree that Flat Head's measurements are "wrong" because I've seen plenty of people of all different sizes wear flat head and it looks good. I've talked to many people who prefer the flat head fit versus for instance iron heart. Based on the logic that 'it doesnt fit certain groups of people so it must be wrong" then all brands are all wrong because there is no brand that fits everyone. 

I partially agree. I don't think that TFH measurements are wrong per say, but..... there is some questionable logic behind the shirt sizes. If a shirt is advertised as a 46. I expect the chest measurement to measure 23" across the chest or close to it. Not 21", not 22". But a legit 23". Logical I would think. It just doesn't work that way with TFH and other brands unfortunately. 

I'd give Rivet and Hide $400 right now for TFH's Diamond and Dots wabash shirt they carry. But TFH's size label that says 48, measures 45" across the chest. How is that a 48? What's the logic behind calling that shirt a 48? I'm a simple minded guy, so maybe I'm just slow,lol.  

Anyway, I don't want to beat a dead horse. I do love the TFH style and offerings. But I think anyone in my shoes that isn't a peewee and has some bulk pretty much can rule out certain brands (3sixteen also comes to mind), and that's unfortunate. I feel I'm a normal size dude at 6'1" 210 LBS. Or maybe I'm not a normal sized 45 year old?

Edited by Maitiu
Should use spell check more :-o

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F310s are back in the wash, after only 3 days since the last one. Went climbing at Ilkley the day after the first wash; stupidly did an easy warm up route, that was very green, in my jeans, leaving big green stains on my knees and thighs.

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Sorry for the stock photo but best shows where I was climbing and how green it was. 

Bonus was this gave me an excuse to get them even dirtier, finishing some gardening in them. Despite the lack of time, think I've got some more fades (we'll really see when they're out the wash) since last wash. Pulling up paving slabs and moving them has worn the knees, which didn't really have any fades before.

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Sorry for the no0b question, it's been a long time since I owned the FH 05BSP.  

Does anyone here have the new TFH D306 slim tapered cut? I own a bunch of continuous taper cuts from Momotaro and Oni which taper all the way down the inseam. But does FH continue their taper the full-length of the 38" inseam, or does it straighten out to a set leg-opening after, say 30-32"? 

I've asked Rivet and Hide to provide a hard in-store measurement at where I'll be hemming, but could use some input here.

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Gave my F2001s a wash yesterday and they are looking great on this cloudy day. I got these at the end of 2013 from SE (~3 years of actual wear) and don't really wear them too much anymore since they've gotten kinda delicate. I think they must have had close to 25 or 30 washes at this point. My apologies for the cell phone pic I've been meaning to take some actual photos of these for a while and keep forgetting.

fh2001.jpg

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15 hours ago, Geeman said:

Hahah. I was in on that convo too. Thanks though!

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