Jump to content
supertalk6
LFC4ever

The Flat Head

Recommended Posts

52 minutes ago, 1fookntitefd said:

Are the froNt pockets usable in the F310 model or is it like the 300x models where they are pretty useless?

I find mine more usable than both my 3012 and 3009. My f310 is definitely my favorite pair overall. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are the froNt pockets usable in the F310 model or is it like the 300x models where they are pretty useless?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm really saddened by the fact that I hate this fucking collar when I consider how perfect the fabric and color of this shirt is.

fh_dabby_dots_01-680x1025.jpg

fh_dabby_dots_11-1025x680.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, there's a time and place for a spread collar, but this isn't one of them.

To be fair, sometimes you think a design up, draw it down and it seems like a good idea at the time, but then you get the sample product back and change your mind.

That fabric though! Would look incredible with a band collar shirt.

Edited by Iron Horse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a little weird but I don't think it looks bad. Spread collars are usually more at home on something a bit more ivy. But with workshirt detailing and the ridiculously short length of a FH shirt, it's a bit jarring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like a spread collar if the second button down is quite high so it doesn't look to wide an opening, The new black flannel at R&H looks great.

Edited by Geeman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Geeman said:

I like a spread collar if the second button down is quite high so it doesn't look to wide an opening, 

I like it too. So I bought one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree. But only when wearing a formal shirt, & with a Windsor knot.

Wearing a tie with a spread collar FH shirt would look daft.

Edited by Tapori
Spelling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel most of the Flat Head shirts have a weird fit with really wide shoulders and then a tight chest measurement and a tight bottom opening.  In almost every picture you can see how the shoulders tend to be too wide.  With that said I have two flannel work shirts that fit okay but neither fit as good as any of my Iron heart shirts.  The fabrics are amazing but I just wish the fits were better.  I'm not sure of this but maybe wide shoulders with a tight chest is a good fit for the average Japanese customer.  I'm 6'3" 200 lbs so I understand I'm not the target Flat Head customer.  With that said the shoulder measurements on both of my size 46 shirts are a little too wide for my liking.  I also have a UES Indigo Flannel shirt and a Nine Lives shirt that I feel fits better than the Flat Head shirts.  Do others feel the same way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After one hour steaming hot soak. Still fit like a glove Edit: FH3002

IMG_8186.PNG

IMG_8187.PNG

Edited by The Chad
Info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, The Chad said:

After one hour steaming hot soak. Still fit like a glove Edit: FH3002

IMG_8186.PNG

IMG_8187.PNG

Looks like a good fit. Much better than before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all, I'm currently in Japan and am thinking of picking up a pair of 3002. But I don't really like the new ultrasuede arcs. 

Justcurious if anyone has any experience removing the new arcs? They seem to be held down partially by the same stitching that holds the back pockets down.

If not does anyone have any fade pictures with the new arcs? Curious how they look with a faded pair. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, gazeboarder said:

I feel most of the Flat Head shirts have a weird fit with really wide shoulders and then a tight chest measurement and a tight bottom opening.  In almost every picture you can see how the shoulders tend to be too wide.  With that said I have two flannel work shirts that fit okay but neither fit as good as any of my Iron heart shirts.  The fabrics are amazing but I just wish the fits were better.  I'm not sure of this but maybe wide shoulders with a tight chest is a good fit for the average Japanese customer.  I'm 6'3" 200 lbs so I understand I'm not the target Flat Head customer.  With that said the shoulder measurements on both of my size 46 shirts are a little too wide for my liking.  I also have a UES Indigo Flannel shirt and a Nine Lives shirt that I feel fits better than the Flat Head shirts.  Do others feel the same way?

Average height in Japan is 5'7" and honestly if you're taller than that your selection is limited. This goes for a lot of Japanese brands. But yeah Iron heart and Nine lives would be able to fit more body types probably. As somebody who is 5'7" 145 lbs. all of Flat heads stuff fits me perfectly. I wear a 40 in their T shirts, and a 38 in their shirts, sometimes a 38R, which is 2" wider in the body (chest?). Maybe check out the "R" (Regular) size from flat head. None of the western dealers carry it but you can find some R shirts in 2nd.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flat Head founder Kobayashi is a small guy (something like 5'5") but has relatively broad shoulders for his height with a narrow waist. So basically their clothes are cut to fit him perfectly and look proportional (hence the short length, which looks great on him but weird on tall people.) He's got kinda unusual proportions and the fits don't scale up real great, IMO. Even in Japan I noticed that the shoulders look wide on most people.

If I was a Western retailer, I'd try to get them to make special shirts for me using their fabrics but with a different fit for western customers. So a native check western shirt would fit something like this in a size 40:

Chest 41" (w/ less taper in waist)

Shoulders 17"

Arm length 25.5"

Shirt length 29"

 

I would love to dress mostly in Flat Head stuff but sadly most of their clothes just don't fit me well, hence why I sold most of my formerly massive collection of FH gear, and just have a denim shirt, flannel shirt, down jacket, and two pairs of sneakers now. For shirts and jeans, 3Sixteen's stuff fits me best, and Rogue Territory's jackets are the best fit. Fit is really the most important to me these days, I don't find a huge difference in construction quality between these brands, and I've been quite happy with the fade from my 3Sixteen jeans. Biggest thing you miss out on by not going with Flat Head is the overall best denim out there (the 14.5 oz Pioneer denim) and the best shirting fabrics of any Amekaji brand.

The problem with Flat Head's Regular fit is that you get a wider chest, but the shoulders are even wider, the sleeves are a bit shorter, and there's still taper in the waist. It would fit a lot of problems if the Regular size was cut with no taper, a longer, sleeve, and longer hem.

Edited by Cold Summer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The taper is what gets me.  I don't like anything snug around my mid section and its even worse if you sit down...just not comfortable.   I have a few shirts that are fine but for the most part, they don't work for me and it took me a while to finally accept this.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It just shows you thatnyou can’t make everything work for everybody. 

For me, flat head shirts fit way better than iron heart for instance. I feel iron heart has tiny shoulders, a huge chest, and too lon sleeves now. I also feel like the shirts are extremely long and they cover far more than my torso, which I feel  is a shirts only job. 

Almost everyone on here should be buying the WR though and I’m surprised western retailers don’t jump on those more. Flat head made their shirts even smaller and slimmer than they were in the past which is ridiculous... if I was a retailer I’d get only WR but nix the darts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI, starting SS18 WR (wide) shirts are no longer being made.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, kiya said:

FYI, starting SS18 WR (wide) shirts are no longer being made.

No western friendly shirts and ugly ultra suede arcs..... The "yup, I'm good on that" list continues with me unfortunately. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

No western friendly shirts and ugly ultra suede arcs..... The "yup, I'm good on that" list continues with me unfortunately. 

The ugly arcs are only for the Japanese market, retailers in North America only sell them with the old stitched-on only arcs.

In terms of fit, you can't please everybody.  For me personally no flannel fits me as well as Flat Head and RJB flannels, it's like they were cut for me.  I'm ok with the slightly dropped shoulders, I've been wearing them for 15 years and have come to like it over those years.

Edited by kiya

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, kiya said:

The ugly arcs are only for the Japanese market, retailers in North America only sell them with the old stitched-on only arcs.

In terms of fit, you can't please everybody.  For me personally no flannel fits me as well as Flat Head and RJB flannels, it's like they were cut for me.  I'm ok with the slightly dropped shoulders, I've been wearing them for 15 years and have come to like it over those years.

It's frustrating because the shirt fabrics are so cool, but they just don't fit me and I'm coming to that realization I guess. The wallets are out of this world still so I can hang onto that at least. 

Any plans to stock the 3005 with the normal overseas arcs Kiya? I was thinking of sizing up on that. The 3009 I got is great but impractical at the same time due to how I sized them and the pockets. 

Edited by SmokeStackLightning

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, the FH shirt fit works great for guys with proportions like Ben and Kiya. You've just gotta have the right body type for it to work, I guess. Fortunately there are a few brands that make nice stuff that fit me beside FH :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep after the past couple years I learned that, for me, fit is foremost and fabric second. I’m really happy that I have found plenty of flat head shirts that have both great fits and fabrics. In fact, i sold all my iron heart stuff because it didn’t fit well. 

Id probably do the same thing if I were you Kyle, although I think the body lengths are good in you and just the sleeves to short... but your denim shirt looks perfect!

Edited by itsbenhere

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I decided to bite the bullet and buy the jeans and used a seam ripper to remove the ultrasuede arcs. To my surprise the original arcs are sewed on under the suede arcs. So I'll be rocking my 3002s with the original arcs now. :D

Photo with the arcs removed (I can't upload images here for some reason so I used imgur):

https://imgur.com/a/BRHeJ

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, looks good!

Yep, the denim shirt is a great fit on me. The collar is pretty loose, but it fits that way on everybody so I'm not too bothered. Gonna give it a wash and photo update soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well now I could buy a pair of 3005's from Japan and still get the old school arcs that I've always wanted, that's awesome.
Thanks for the info @Tiptac!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

 

Any plans to stock the 3005 with the normal overseas arcs Kiya? I was thinking of sizing up on that. The 3009 I got is great but impractical at the same time due to how I sized them and the pockets. 

 

Yup, next production run of the 3005 should be done in the spring!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By Coolguyzack
      Size 40
      Fits between XS and S:
      Laid flat, pit to pit is 19", Top of shoulder (immediately left or right of collar), 25"
      Light Wear
      US Domestic w/Shipping: $40
    • By youngofthesoonest
      Strike Gold Indigo Loopwheeled Sweatshirt Jacket
      I only wore this a couple times and just did not find a place for it with everything else I have. It's a super heavy loop wheeled indigo dyed fleece. It's not garment dyed so it has a deep rich indigo color that will fade nicely with wear. It's tagged Medium but fits like an American small.
      Measurements: 
      Chest: 42in 
      Length: 27.9in 
      Sleeve: 25in 
      Shoulders: 17.7in
      $220 CONUS
       



    • By ukashoeheadist
      Hey all,
      I know I don't sell frequently.  Been on here for a while.  Trying to get rid of some items that don't get much love in the closet.
       
      Flat Head s/s orange western button up shirt - Size 38 (M) = $50 shipped in US
      Great details with button snaps.  Nice material.
      Worn about 5 times, washed once. 
      Measurements: Shoulders 17 3/4", Sleeves 7 3/4", Top 25 1/4" (back of neck to bottom of front), Pit to pit 20"

       


       
       
       
      Stevenson Long sleeve Beige shirt - Size L = $50 shipped in US
      Exceptional quality, beautiful material, great feel and thickness.  Button snaps
      Worn about 3 times, washed and dried once
      Measurements: Shoulders 18", Sleeves 24.5", Top 29.25" (back of neck to bottom of front), pit to pit 21"
       



       
       
      Sunny Sports Long sleeve shirt with red/ colored weave - Size L = $30 shipped in US
      Light, beautiful colors, and exceptional weave quality.
      Worn about 8 times, washed and dried once
      Measurements: Shoulder 17", Sleeves 25.5", Top 30.25" (back of neck to bottom of front), Pit to pit 18.25"
       



       
      Quoddy Chukka Black Leather - Size 7.5 = $60 shipped in US
      Quality leather.  Well used about 7/10 condition.  Tons of life as you can see




       
    • By HangWithHuang
      Cleaning out my closet for stuff I don't get to wear as often!  Willing to accept offers.
      1. Himel Bros. Brimaco Raider Cafe Racer - $1750 plus shipping
      This jacket is absolutely insane. Tagged size 36, fits like S. Made with 100% genuine Shinki tea-core horsehide that will gradually fade from deep black to a gorgeous brown as it ages. Weighs in at around 5 pounds and is built to take an absolute beating. Deadstock Lightning zippers, bi-swing back, and of course the absolutely unparalleled quality that David Himel is known for. If you know leather jackets, then you'll know that this is the creme de la creme. Retails for $2450.
      Worn lightly and still has plenty of breaking in left to do. It's a shame that I have to sell this as it's just slightly too small for me. Would totally be interested in trading for another leather jacket of similar quality in a larger size.
      Description from Himel's website: 
      "The Raider jacket is an homage to one of the greatest café racer jackets ever made. Brimaco or British Mfg. Co of Montreal, Canada designed this iconic jacket in the 1950's after attending motorcycle races on the Isle of Man. The jacket has a distinctive British feel with a longer straighter torso and a simple clean back with bi-swing expansion gussets and a long chinstrap. We own so many originals of this great design that it barely required any tweaking, and this model uses our limited supply of original 1950's and 1960's Lightning zippers."
      MEASUREMENTS: 
      P2P: 20" 
      Shoulders: 17" 
      Sleeve: 24.5" 
      Back length: 26.5" 
      Front length: 24"
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/XYjPXEAmQKmsg1EMJ119[/img]
      2. The Real McCoy's M-422A Flight Jacket - $1150 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/mcslLUs7SuOKnR9V2Rdf[/img]
      Absolutely stunning M-422A flight jacket from The Real McCoy's New Zealand. If you know The Real McCoy's, then you'll know that everything they make is of the highest standards, from the material to the construction. This jacket is made with the finest goatskin and mouton fur and is built just impeccably. Faithful to the original details, but superiorly made.
      Measurements: 
      P2P: 21" 
      Shoulder: 17" 
      Sleeve: 24.75" 
      Length: 25.75"
      3. Needles/Nepenthes (Engineered Garments) Horween Shell Engineer Boots, resoled by Brian the Bootmaker - $1500 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/ePB7rWcfRrKeG75LT7SO[/img]
      Needles (Engineered Garments) Engineer Boots made with genuine Color No. 8 Horween Shell Cordovan in tag size 9UK. I'd say they fit pretty TTS, although there is plenty of room for one to wear thicker socks.
      These were picked up from the Nepenthes shop located in New York City. Needles is the sister company of Engineered Garments (both owned by Nepenthes). This pair has also been re-soled by Brian the Bootmaker (Role Club) and converted to his signature hand-welt. They're really fresh too - worn under 10 times. Truly an amazing pair of boots. Shell cordovan engineer boots are pretty hard to come by, especially ones made with Horween (most other shell engineer boots are made with Shinki cordovan).
      4. The Flat Head 6002W Type II Jacket - $350 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:90/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/RINrxGgSFazJbCpUp1cI[/img]
      Classic Type II jacket by The Flat Head in their Pioneer denim. Gently worn, practically new. Retails for over $500 at Self Edge.
      Size: 40 (no such thing as S/M/L) 
      Front Length: 24.5 
      Arm Length: 34 
      Shoulder: 18.5 
      Pit to pit: 20.5
      5. Evisu No. 2 Type I Jacket - $130 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/LrCQ4QAiTzavNJhhb1X6[/img]
      Pretty sweet Type I jacket by Evisu. Sick details all over, well worn and faded.
      Tagged size 40 fits S-M. See measurements below: 
      pit to pit 21.5 inches 
      opening 19 inches 
      sleeve 24.75 inches 
      overall length 23 inches 
      shoulders 18.5 inches
      6. Iron Heart Indigo-dyed Waffle Work Shirt (IHSH-96) - $225 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/uJmnA9JZQaNjDaYd8eZW[/img]
      Worn a handful of times, not really my style. No damage and in excellent condition. Fits excellent as either TTS or slightly tight as it's a slim fit with a hint of stretch due to the waffles knit pattern, though it's 100% cotton. Shirt is sold out in this size last I checked.
      Beautiful indigo dyed waffle fabric that we think will age amazingly 
      Black cat's-eye buttons 
      Chain stitch run-off 
      Triple needle-stitch construction using self coloured needle and red bobbin threads 
      All felled seam construction 
      Rinsed, so there should be no appreciable shrinkage 
      Model Sam wears a Medium, Giles wears X-Large in this shirt (rather than his normal Large)
      Measurements direct from IH: 
      Shoulders    17.2 
      Length 27.8 
      PtP    21.5 
      Sleeve    24.8 
      Collar    17.1
      7. Pure Blue Japan 5 Oz. Neppy Selvedge Western Shirt - $180 plus shipping
      https://dfqickngpn7t8.cloudfront.net/AJdAgnqCST4iPtnUxiGtTz/cache=expiry:max/rotate=deg:exif/rotate=deg:0/resize=width:1100,fit:crop/output=format:jpg,quality:95/compress/gs7l3nnXTxq6byH82P0s[/img]
      Shirt is basically brand new, worn no more than 2-3 times. Retails for $230 at Rivet and Hide. Tagged size 3 (fits like S). Check Rivet and Hide for exact measurements.
      -100% cotton 5 oz selvedge denim 
      -Rope-dyed indigo 
      -Western style / back yoke 
      -Snap buttons 
      -One wash (minimal shrinkage) 
      -Felled seams 
      -Chain stitch run-off 
      -Embroidered "shoai" indigo plant leaf emblem 
      -Crafted in Japan