The Flat Head

[itsbenhere]

I care when something doesn't at least exist to some extent on every pair. If 99 jeans look perfect, and 1 looks fucked up, it's fucked up. It's not "character"...

[reallypeacedoff]

If it doesn't affect the integrity of the garment then I don't see a point to worry, however, I get where the OP is going, I too, got a pair of BSPs where the back yoke chainstitch had some skipping (as in, it disappeared for half a centimeter, then began again x2) which at first glance thought might be detrimental to the longevity but honestly, had no problems at all. SE reinforced it just in case when I took it in for other repairs not related to that. I mean I was slightly disappointed at first but seeing where they are now, I 'effing love TFH. Just washed them again today so will post pictures tomorrow. Think it's coming up to 7 months now... look epic.

[aho]

Unfortunately, our niche tends to attract excessively anal behavior but honestly guys they're just clothes...Just wear them! I do get that there's a premium we pay for construction, materials, etc. but don't mislead yourself into thinking that every stitch and every thread has to be perfect because really, life doesn't have to be so hard and these clothes are meant to be worn, not looked at/fondled all day! Unless it's something that affects durability or integrity of them then there shouldn't be cause for concern IMO.

[garden gnomes in space]

this reminds me of people on camera forums who magnify their files by 300% and trip that their image is soft...

[kiya]

this reminds me of people on camera forums who magnify their files by 300% and trip that their image is soft...

 

Isn't that the same as people that go into retail stores with a caliper measuring the distance of stitches on the welt of a boot so that they can "find the right pair"? 

(yes, i've seen it happen at Self Edge)

[edmond]

kiya , um just fuckin with that guy. he wants it perfect well a robot is the way to make it!

[Foxy2]

Appreciate the quick response with a pic!

Maybe my pair was made by a different worker who's not so particular about the construction...

Don't get me wrong, I still like my flat head jeans, the raised belt loops and back pocket rims are all good details, just thought that messy finish was a bit odd...

Would be really interested to see what other owners' pairs look like?

Sorry, I'm a bit late to the party, but I thought I'll add my 2 pence' worth, too...

What has been shown in the pictures is the seam allowance of the pocket entry where the upper pocket bag is joint to the front leg panel. This seam is done on the left side, face-to-face and then turned over (inside out) and top-stitched.

Because of the seam allowance being in a curve (curved pocket entry) and then turned over you'll need to treat the seam allowance in order to get a flat look.

The inside of curve of the seam allowance is shorter than the outside (the actual seam) - when you turn this over your previous inside becomes the outside and needs to stretch.

Unfortunately, not all fabrics stretch easily or the same and not all curved pocket entry curves have the same spline (which might explain why you don't see the same solution on all pairs).

Now, there are 3 main ways to deal with that in garment production:

- Your fabric stretches and bends easily - no need to worry.

- You cut down/trim the seam allowance after joining the pocket entry (before turning them over and topstitching), alternatively you trim only the more rigid layer of the 2 fabrics (denim or pocket bag fabric). There are machines with trimming devices or under-bed trimmer.

- You cut the seam allowance in regular distances very close to the actual seam (before turning them over and topstitching) - this is what happened to your pair.

There are advantages and disadvantages to all 3 options, but all 3 are standard solutions and not "sloppy work".

[edmond]

boo haha foxy here now schoolin you bitch add complaints

[edmond]

yo blackpig why you so mad at me man? jeez ita just a pair of jeans

[ironheartfan123]

i once saw an aspie at SE who was literally yelling at his (hopefully ex-) gf and the staff that there would be a mark left after removing the arcs from a pair of SG and that gf and the staff were "idiots" for saying otherwise

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

A customer bought a pair of Flat Head 3001 jeans from us in Spring 2013 and after 10 months was concerned about the cotton stitching breaking. He sent me photos of the jeans and my private reaction was that they were one of the most beautiful examples of 3xxx denim fades I had ever witnessed. I told him to send them back for repairs. I wanted to see the jeans in the flesh. Once back with me I immediately offered him a swap for the F310 with more robust poly cotton constructional stitching. He was happy. I was even more happy. The jeans are displayed in the store and showcase just how beautiful Flat Head denim is.

We all obsess about different things. Worked out pretty well for both of us in the end.

[itsbenhere]

I love how that cotton stitching looks too, but it's kinda insane how fast it goes.

[heyheyhey]

A customer bought a pair of Flat Head 3001 jeans from us in Spring 2013 and after 10 months was concerned about the cotton stitching breaking. He sent me photos of the jeans and my private reaction was that they were one of the most beautiful examples of 3xxx denim fades I had ever witnessed. I told him to send them back for repairs. I wanted to see the jeans in the flesh. Once back with me I immediately offered him a swap for the F310 with more robust poly cotton constructional stitching. He was happy. I was even more happy. The jeans are displayed in the store and showcase just how beautiful Flat Head denim is.

We all obsess about different things. Worked out pretty well for both of us in the end.

Please take some photo's we'd love a look.

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

Please take some photo's we'd love a look.

 

 

 

 

[kiya]

Oh yeah, i'd say those are definitely defective.  (10)

[Cold Summer]

For what it's worth:  My 1001s are all-cotton and I've been very, very impressed at how well they've held up over the past year.  Little bits have broken at a few places but nothing's unraveled or been serious enough to need a repair.  Washing also helps.

[heyheyhey]

Very impressive example of Flat Head jeans right there.

[itsbenhere]

Does anyone know if flat head's horsehide is top grain or full grain? And if the black color wears away super quickly to brown?

[tmadd]

Full grain.  It doesn't wear away super quickly on any part of a jacket besides the edges where there is a hard fold, and abrasion happens frequently.

[itsbenhere]

Oh shit.... Exactly what I was hoping to hear. Does it happen around the armpits? I saw a himel that was basically light brown there and while I'm not opposed to the vintage look, it didn't look to good.

[tmadd]

Didn't anticipate when I left the house today (or ever for that matter), but, I'll take a photo of my armpits when I get home.  There's definitely a couple places where you can see brown, but, I don't think it's something anybody would ever be able to notice while one was wearing the jacket, unless of course they were in very close proximity.

[reallypeacedoff]

Not as good as Danny's example (yet) but mine have just hit 7 months. Trying to wear these as much as possible until December 24th which will make it close to a year all up. December 25th I start work on my brand new 301S that are hanging in my closet.

 

 

PS The picture of the combs, what makes it pill (not sure of the technical term) like that? Sweat and not enough washing? I have soaked these 3 times and washed them 5.

 

[itsbenhere]

Didn't anticipate when I left the house today (or ever for that matter), but, I'll take a photo of my armpits when I get home.  There's definitely a couple places where you can see brown, but, I don't think it's something anybody would ever be able to notice while one was wearing the jacket, unless of course they were in very close proximity.

 

Thanks tyler... for those interested, here's that Himel after only a few months.  

 

[tmadd]

Whoa...I've never really seen something that pronounced before.  That looks like some funny business....this is what I was talking about:

 

It's only on one of the two pits, and I've worn this jacket hard for the last year, and not gone out of my way to baby it at all. 

[itsbenhere]

I honestly laughed after seeing that... the difference is insane.  I wonder how many options there are for black shinki horsehide among the various makers?  No surprise though that Flat Head's looks perfect...

 

That jacket looks really really good.  Judging from the wear there it'll look perfectly worn in after many good years of hard wear... Glad as (other than jeans) I like my stuff to age very slowly.

[Jonaz]

@reallypeacedoff: I downvoted by mistake, great fading though

[edmond]

its either himel is a not so expereienced jaclet maker yet

he doesnt know how the leather would react , and also the way the pattern was cut on that part

or!

someone just got a jacket thats too tight in that area and it bunched up and fucked up

rubbing

[itsbenhere]

No, I saw how it fit....it was perfect

[Max Power]

Edit: I'm stupid.

Edited August 13, 2014 by Max Power

[edmond]

because he doeant study his leather before he males the pattern. look at mccoys they are pain in the ass to break in! amd it rubs at the right area. not some weird back of the armpit fade would you want that? its like having a fade on the top back yoke of your jeans where the crack of your ass stops