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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/27/25 in all areas
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A brand with once coveted appeal has unfortunately pulled off a complete 180. Sinking too quickly in their own poor choices has created circumstances I assume to have been unforeseen. What was never a luxury brand, attempted a luxury brand route while trying to hold onto past protocols. Getting away with collections comprising of 20% appealing designs and 80% non-appealing is usually accomplished through end of season sales (70%+ off). Yet here we are today, not only the current SS25 (which didn’t even appeal to retailers) but as well FW24, SS24, FW23, SS23, FW22, SS22 and FW21 collections sitting on MS with most if not all items in full stock. Full stock we know well will not go on sale. Designs have gone from desirable to laughable. Prices have gone from while not all that reasonable to absolutely ludicrous. Last but not least, material choices have abandoned what was once the core strength and identity of the brand to cheap undesirable alternatives. J70-BU being the only exception imo. Moving forward what would be the best course of action for ACRNMs survival? Offloading MS stock at warehouse sale prices? Reverting back to what they know works (2012-2017) vs. taking risks only luxury brands can afford to take? What’s your opinion and where do you think the brand is headed? Is E going to sink with his ship as captain or take an EscapePodǽ back to safety..7 points
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+1 for cap and glasses Being bald and shortsighted, both are borderline essential for functioning out of doors.5 points
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Can't say I've ever put that much thought into it. If I want to wear a hat and glasses I just do it! Sunglasses are a prerequisite here, I don't leave the house without a pair.5 points
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this Japanese webpage features photos of an archive specimen, featuring those strange belt loops... https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/20773584 points
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Some years back I read a piece online by a guy who was breaking in a pair of 35 ounce denim jeans. The first day he'd attempted to do some kind of a mild hike in them and found that the backs of his knees were bleeding. Apparently the jeans were breaking him in rather than the other way around...4 points
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Recently besides their 105 and 107 OrSlow had released a 101 Dad's fit jeans. Now there is also a 101 Grand Dads Fit. Apparently 12oz. There is also one by Full Count. In their super smooth 11.5oz denim.4 points
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First time outside with the newest addition to the family. Rototo / Engineered Garments / YM Factory / Sugar Cane / Hoka4 points
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@Sympathy-For-The-Denim you could be right- obviously the jacket in that link is original, but the jeans l'm still not sure about. The rivets were made round-topped rather than dimple topped from c.1926, the suspender and fly buttons were plain until 1927/28 as well as chainstitched hems and selvedge. The beltloops don't look after-market but they are highly unusual in terms of construction, placement and the way they are attached. Could be a custom Taylor job or special customer request maybe? The repro 213 shows a pocket flap that wasn't attached until c.1927 but only single stitching was used until 1936 at least. The repro stitching looks twin needle. Anyway, 800 pairs of whatever that will go straight into storage in denim collections around the world. [Edit] Just glad l have a pair of Valencia St factory made 201's, the best imo3 points
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@Dr_Heech they did a similar thing with the 1943 flannel pocket jeans. Just around the similar time when Sugar Cane released their model. Funny how these deadstock pairs travel through the manufactures. Or they did it based on the vidoes/pictures? At least that is what I suspect the Chinese brand Militora having done when they also released the same model last year.3 points
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Some details from the Rockets site are pasted below. All taken from Rockets's site. Thorough dissection of original jeans. Ordering needs to be done by Instagram outside of Japan however (probably only thing that I've used IG for personally). Custom stamped and engraved hidden rivets: Twisted tab Front button Front rivets 1937 model cinch3 points
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Assuming those photos are of the original piece, is it possible the belt loops were added by a tailor? It could explain the issues with construction and location, although tucking the belt loops into the waistband as they are is probably not a very viable option for an already constructed garment.2 points
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You are not alone! The only time I think I’ve worn a hat/specs is when skiing (woolly hat/sunglasses) and maybe a sun hat & shades on a summer holiday once or twice. It simply doesn’t feel right to me to have too much clutter around my bonce.2 points
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Cap and glasses, throws off the balance of an outfit, makes it too top heavy.. If i was in Doc's position, i would have to wear boots, gators and crampons to balance it out or maybe even ski's ..2 points
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Interesting, almost as though the Foremost owner is selling the deadstock pair as template for anyone to copy, as long as they have deep pockets. Sure the csf pair will be astronomically priced.2 points
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IKR.. i despair for the deminworld.. i love this place, it's one of the last few genuine communities on the interwebz but pop your head out from under the sufu rock and the denim world is just fucking hideous.. from comical Instagram fakery to superficial denim blogs to click-baity youtube vids to .. well i wouldn't even know how to describe Reddit .. it makes me ashamed to be part of it. There is no wonder that^ shit sells2 points
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My resolution to not buy any pants in 2025 lasted 3 months. I got the Boncoura painter pants in the 15oz black warp white weft denim. I generally avoided this color of denim but this one is pretty dark and not metallic gray looking and i like how i can wear it with other black clothes without looking too monochrome. The fit is pretty roomy but has some shape to it still. The slight taper in the leg is nice when the top block and thighs are on the wider side. Boncoura details are always fun with the hidden coin pocket, selvedge id on the inside of the back pockets and branded zipper. I went with the raw hem which I’ll probably chain stitch later down the line when I’m sick of this.2 points
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I feel like enough people probably have pairs from Rockets now and that there is enough chatter about them in the Unknown Japanese Brands thread that they can get their own thread. There is also limited information on the brand that I could easily find, so it would be nice to have it documented as best as possible here. Most of the information below comes from their website and some chatting with Kato-san. Rockets have been around since 1994 (which is actually longer than Warehouse, the last of the Osaka 5) and were founded by Yasunobu Kato. However, it's unclear to me if they have been producing denim since the beginning. They've historically offered a 1937 cut (0003xx model) a WW2 cut (this s0001xx model), a 1947 (0002xx model), and a 1966 cut (SB-100). Kato-san can also customize a pair for you to cover some of the transitional early war models. WW2 models are offered with either olive HBT or chambray pocket bags. There are also several models of WW2 era jackets with various details, including with and without pocket flaps, although I do not know much about these since the sleeves are too short for me. The primary claim to fame and specialty of Rockets has been their WW2 models and their denim which is known for its heavy lap fades and whiskers. The phrase "Tiger Moustache" on their patches refers to the way in which these whiskers resemble those on a tiger. Kato-san has spent years analyzing vintage fabric from the era to best replicate it, matching the yarn count of the era. It's unclear where the denim is milled. According to the owner Kato-san, the yarns used in the denim have been dyed more than 12 times, so the denim is very dark and will be slow to fade compared to Warehouse or new Denime. After a wash, the denim is a very dark blue that is almost grey/black in appearance with a gritty and coarse handfeel. It creases easily and quickly gets some electric blue highlights, so I can see how these jeans get such pronounced whiskering. In talking with Kato-san, the 1937 model uses the same denim as the WW2 models sold by Rockets. I'm not sure about the 1947 model (although I would guess that it's also the same) and I'm very unclear what is used for the 1966 model (not sure if I've even seen a photo of a pair). Four types of cotton thread are used to sew the garments: No. 30, No. 20, No. 8, and No. 6. The waist is seen with thick No. 6 and No. 8 threads, while the selvedge is sewn with No. 6 thread, consistent with Kato-san's vintage models. The hem is wrapped in four pieces as was typical for vintage pairs prior to the 1960's. Threads are dyed orange and yellow based on estimates for the era. The dyes used on the threads are also selected for low fastness, so they will fade along with the denim. Rockets models also come with a red rayon tab labelled "Venus". The tab is designed to twist significantly after washing. Rockets also owns 3 Union Special sewing machines Rockets have also taken a lot of care to reproduce the style and character of buttons and rivets and buttons of the era. Laurel donut top buttons are used for the WW2 pairs, while iron body buttons are used on the 1937 and 1947 models. WW2 models with chambray pocket bags seem to use iron body buttons for the rest of the fly, while donut buttons are used for the fly of the HBT versions. All buttons are iron and are designed to rust. Front pocket rivets were designed to have a diameter of 10 mm, consistent with vintage rivets. According to the Rockets site, most front rivets used by other brands are 9 mm in diameter. Two types of front rivets are used - copper and iron plated. Hidden rivets are a non-standard shape to capture the shape of those seen on War models. Rockets hand stamps their hidden rivets into the desired shape and then hand engraves them. Rockets offers several versions of their models. There is a standard version where all hardware is new. There is also a "Craft" version, where you can select to use already oxidized hardware. Rockets also offers a "Tailor Made" line of models that are more expensive than their standard "Factory Made" models. Taylor Made models are about 15,000 yen more expensive. The 1937 model seems to be sold as Taylor Made with a claim of being sewn on a vintage machine. I chatted with Kato-san, but I wasn't quite able to learn what this meant in terms of final product, so I just went with a standard model for myself. I will try to add some more details and edit as I have time and learn more. I will also try to locate and cross-post some of the stray pairs found in the WW2 and Unknown Japanese Brands threads here too as I find the time1 point
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Jacket is nice... my size based on measurements... it's long though at 65cm1 point
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I'm waiting until they shift fabric to indigo carpet.1 point
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We took our daughter out to the local wildflower center near our house yesterday, hard to believe she's already 3 months old. I've had a hard time documenting much lately, but I'm working on it! Before and after one of our pups got a (long overdue) haircut. Keeping watching during playtime. I've got a bunch of fancy sneakers but somehow I always end up back in these ones from Catchball. Seen a guy at one of our local coffee shops wearing some wide FH's and Paraboots.1 point
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