Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/24 in all areas
-
13 points
-
12 points
-
9 points
-
Some of the conversation here feels in the spirit of some of the philosophical thoughts (both clothing/style and otherwise) that I've been thinking about during late nights with my son. Here is my screed. There are all sorts of different reasons that lead people to choose the items that they wear. They may dress a certain way due to economics, aesthetics, to generate "likes", to blend in, to stand out, to convey affinity or membership in a particular subculture, because they just enjoy wearing particular items for the sake of it, etc. Obviously, these reasons are not all mutually exclusive. In the image and click based world of today, arguably certain reasons are privileged more than others. In an Instagram fit pic, a pair of vintage Evis Lot 2501 No. 1 (as an example pertinent to this thread) will be more or less indistinguishable from a pair of modern day Levis or mall brand jeans and would generate no more likes or hype, as opposed to say the Oni Asphalt fabric. In the real world though, their is an intangible element to those Evis that can only be experienced through love and wear - the tactile experience of the fabric, the history, the passion, dedication, and craftsmanship of the creator. This goes beyond clothing as well, at least it does for me. It's similar to the reason why I collect vintage pulp hardboiled and sci-fi paperbacks rather than the modern day reissues of those titles. I just love the vintage Robert McGinnis cover art as opposed to the more soulless covers of today. It's the reason why I'm going to start getting into film photography (at least occasionally) with an old Nikon SLR and an old Leica rangefinder. Sure I can probably create more technically perfect images with my Fuji mirrorless camera and Lightroom, but then I lose some of the tactile joy and craft of the analog experience. Rather than spamming 100s of shots for the perfect image, I have to be much more deliberate in my choices. Even in my professional area of science (chemistry,chemical engineering/soft matter physics), there was a sense of discovery, wonder, and careful details present in older literature than in contemporary literature. These older works often did science for the sake of fundamental discovery and carefully crafted experiments and shared the results in a more sober matter-of-fact manner. I never learned as much as I did from literature from the mid-90s and earlier. Today, as in denim, a lot of the work fixates more on the final product than the journey. Large portions of academic research focus more on device fabrication and subsequent commodification in search of an easy start-up spinoff or payday at the expense of fundamental research. I don't blame them since such hype generation drives a lot of the funding decisions, at least in the US, but this reality is ultimately what led me away from academic roles/professorships and is partly why I'm now an industrial scientist. To conclude and as a slight aside, some of the discussion here is ultimately what led me to purchase the TCB no. 2. The jeans are clearly polarizing in aesthetic as evidence by the contest thread here. They were most definitely not designed to generate 100 fit pic posts on Reddit. Rather, they exist because Inoue-san clearly loves the history of the denim and cared deeply about maklng those jeans for their own sake. Are they a pair that I would pick in a vacuum - no. However, I too appreciate the attention to detail and wanted to do my smallest part to ensure that the passion and craft can live on a little longer6 points
-
Gave them a wash yesterday, liking where they are headed. Will probably give them another wash in a couple of months.6 points
-
5 points
-
Your perception is the only truth. It is what informs your experience, and shapes tomorrow's truth in the light of new perception. Magic and meaning is everywhere, in everything, but it is entirely unique to the observer. We (as a collective humanity) often put to much external value on that truth, particularly when a collection of individuals experience the same truth, and thus try to enforce it upon others as a universal truth to shape their perception. Please forgive the philosophy, feel free to ignore it as well. Its my perception anyways, which doesn't mean its true.4 points
-
Most will tell you to buy from Hoosier. Excellent service and everything will be covered. In terms of size: I wore a W34 in the FW1947 and wear a W36 in Ooe. The FW felt roomier so you will probably be happy with a W32 or a W33 to be safe.4 points
-
The community of people that care about repros will continue to dwindle to the point where there won't be a big enough market to justify making the clothing. And with it will die the entire story of how it all came to be. It's a bit heart breaking really. I hope someone is or will document the history of the Osaka 5 and the rise of Japanese denim. As for the stuff we get nowadays and why I'm less interested. I feel as though with social media came a feedback mechanism that took a bit of personality out of the garments. They feel "made for someone" instead of made for their own appreciation. In many ways this is amazing. We get items that couldn't exist before and justified a market for very niche products. But before that, the world was smaller. The older repros might not have CSF-level attention to detail, but they have a spirit to them that speaks of individuals making something for themselves without caring to make others happy. It's feels pure and true. They come imbued with something that makes them different than a blank canvas. And to me, wearing *that* feels worlds different than wearing a new release.4 points
-
To offer somewhat of a different perspective here that has little to do with old repros per se, nostalgia is a powerful drug. The search for “authenticity” is often a search for feelings one had as a youth, when everything was more exciting because one was young and because there is a sense of discovery at that age that there won’t be when you’ve lived longer, and seen more. It’s not to say that the pursuit of nostalgia is problematic, but one will simply never recreate the feelings of that age. It is a chapter in life. Now we are in a new chapter. There are plenty of brands here that I would contend exude the passion some probably found in the original Osaka 5 works. And maybe young people finding them today will have the same feelings about them twenty years from now. Tender, Freewheelers, and Ooe, (and TCB as noted) for example - all know how to do IG , yes, but they also clearly and patently make what they love and it shows in the clothes - those of us that have them probably appreciate them largely for this reason. There are things from the past worth holding on to, but we can’t completely. I also don’t mean to take anything away from collecting older models - if that’s your jam, by all means. It’s fun to go searching and find a treasure, absolutely. It just doesn’t mean that there isn’t something out right now that lacks that same magic. These are just perceptions. I use Leica digital Monochromes for my work. I use them because damn are the files so much better than a 35mm negative, and they make pictures possible that weren’t before. I’m stubborn and want the camera to feel like the sort I used for years, but that’s the irrational part of me. They are an objective improvement compared to the negatives you’d get from tri-x run through an analog M, and the prints (that I do digitally) have their own unique and beautiful presence that a silver print differs from (not better or worse). But, I came up shooting film for a good while, I shot it for work when I had the budget, had to turn around that shit on deadline for magazines stubbornly when digital was in full force already because 10 years ago medium format film still had a very demonstrable advantage - as of about the 36 and 40 mp sensors in the D800 series or the Sony A7R series, it was gone. And I was happy to let it go. I still have my Rolleiflexes and M6, beautiful mechanical objects but they sit in a case because as photographic tools they’re not as good for most purposes. (Some specific purposes - I’ll never tell someone what they need - I’m sure can be found). If one enjoys the process more, that’s great. Enjoying the process is the most important part of making things, most of the time. But careful not to hold an idea that it’s somehow something more real or pure because it’s older or slower etc. And there’s nothing that stops one from being deliberate on a digital camera. I get that the roll of film presents a hard limit on things, but there’s nothing stopping one from just shooting a few deliberately made pictures even if you can make 1000. Yes, we are awash in more plastic and more fakery and more advertising than ever, and it can make the good stuff hard to find, but it’s more out there than ever. Maybe this is because I work in the arts but there is great new work being made now, all of the time, and the idea of “the good old days” is a mirage that will never materialize because the way it exists in one’s head now is different than it was even then. Realizing this probably belongs in the “nonsense” thread - mods feel free to move, or delete even if this is too insufferable ha.3 points
-
My only hope: as long as people are interested in the original (read vintage Levi's 501s) there will be a certain demand for repro jeans.3 points
-
3 points
-
Seconding b_Fs suggestions, I take a w38 in OA and w36 in all my Freewheelers jeans. And always buy from Hoosier.3 points
-
Good point Julian, hadn't considered applying those. Another point I should've mentioned is that I've also been considering the JM Weston 180 loafer in beechnut suede. The JM Weston seem a bit more dressy and my style is more casual, but I saw some in person in Paris and they were really well made.2 points
-
I posted about the movie a while back. Austin is the new “it” actor coming up now.2 points
-
Been searching a long time for this one: Evis era bull patch S506xx (1506). From comparison with other era pairs of jeans, it looks like No.2 denim. Lovely boxy, short silhouette. And slightly different than the norm, zinc-y laurel buttons. Don't think I can save this interesting construction tidbits: Single stitch cuff:2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
I know that the big Alden-heads really hate the mechanically sewn models, but I have not seen them in person so my knowledge is all secondhand. They could actually be bad or it could just be frustration at change. I've never really dabbled in Alden loafers because my feet make loafer sizing very difficult and I'm never in a place with an Alden stockist for long enough to get properly sized. It's also relatively hard to find secondhand pairs in long and narrow sizes to take a quick sizing flyer. Alden Model Project compiles all the second hand listings too if you can find a pair in your size. I would not pay much more than $200 - non-shell loafers don't hold the same resale value as their boots. https://aldenmodelproject.com/1 point
-
I like the softer lines and toe bump of the LHS but the wait time can be huge. If you have a pair of non shell Alden Indy’s, the faux moc toe stitching will be machine sewn so you could imagine that on a loafer. The shell Indy’s are hand sewn. Have you checked The Shoe Mart for factory seconds of the LHS? You should be able to get some for 30-40% discount1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
I’m not sure how standard it would be as the position of male tits is a moobable feast1 point
-
1 point
-
I’m completely with you here @Graytrain, the last jeans that I bought as a current release/production model was back in 2018 (LVC 1976). Since 2011, most pairs I’ve bought were deadstock/out of production pairs or have subsequently become that. I’m not interested in new releases, although I still see pairs I like, but part of that is due to the fact I have too many jeans anyway, so I try hard to resist any new purchases.1 point
-
Just seen an advert for a new movie called 'The Bike Riders' about a motorcycle gang back in the 1960s. I saw Tom Hardy in what looked to be a WW2 S506XX repro, also saw some vintage type 3's and a Lee 101J. Maybe worth a watch when it's released.?1 point
-
Here a few pics of my LVC 1947 fitting more on the relaxed side of things as I lost a bit of weight. Back to the gym now so should slowly start to fit the way they did when I first got them . Used to fit more snug all around 1947 is my favourite cut from LVC line I also have 1966 cone denim but the 66 the front pockets are too shallow imo. But prefer the width of the leg opening on 66 but 47 for me is better all around. I also like the fact LVC 501 fade slow I’m not one for super high contrast fades. Although one of my Edwin’s has ended looking that way. (edit been bath tub soaked twice before wearing minimal if any leg twist on this pair)1 point
-
Thanks @chicote! I have never seen myself as a collector. Wholly a wearer. And for most of my denim career (nearing 20 years...) I've been dedicated to a pair at a time. Channelling my inner Ryu "Using chain stitch, your train of jeans is fading wind." But the chase of the grail that captures a specific fit, detail and character has made me really fall in love with the history of repros and particularly the Osaka 5. I realized through that, that there is very little info out there save whats in this forum, that its all going to become lost information at some point, and the only way to experience the older historical repros is to source it and see it first hand. And by total happenstance, I have become a collector...1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
And some interior photos, which I think have been lacking from previous updates…I'm a sucker for the 2x-spliced-together selvedge lines down the outseams, and for the oxidized–bleached spots where the front rivets hit the back yoke, when the jeans are folded.1 point
-
Had some time to kill w/ a needle and thread this week while out of town, so I put some more time in on the old M41200 that got their seat replaced earlier this year. Knees were wearing dangerously thin all the way out to past the outseams. Did the topstitching around the edges of the denim by hand, then closed everything up on the machine after getting back home. The patch fabric is leftover from some SC40302 Okinawa jeans that are now cutoffs, I think the grass-dyed version (whatever that means). Throwing in some general wear photos, too, while I'm here: the seams where the new denim from the last repair meets the old are starting to see some nice puckering!1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
@Sarazan One of the best buying experiences I have ever had. Bought the V91-WS. Insanely quick response, great detail in his messages. He offered to take pics/video of the entire packaging and shipping process at the post office. Shipped super fast. Gave tracking fast. All sellers should be like him.1 point
-
I made a video where I cover 7 pairs of Acronym pants and 4 pairs of Nike ACG pants from the era where Errolson Hugh was collaborating with them. This has by far been the most detailed video I've ever put together. Acronym wise I cover the pants P30A-DS, P10-E, SP29-M, P39-M, P23A-DS, SP29K-M and P53-WS. ACG wise I cover the pants ACG Cargo Trousers Blue, ACG Cargo Shorts, ACG Cargo Trousers Black, and ACG Deploy Cargo Trousers One thing I always miss from newer Acronym pants is how the phone pockets lack extra webbing to wrap over the top of a phone, this is something that was seen on their pants pre 2022 and is for some reason missing today.1 point
-
1 point
-
New Warehouse tee, plus first time wearing sneakers in like 2+ years Union Special / Warehouse / Tightly Stitched / The Vanishing West / The Flat Head1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point