What about Jeans Jackets ....

[Vicarious]

 

Sugar Cane, Type II. Worn it for about a year, I think? If my house was on fire and I could only grab one item of clothing... 

[Bobbo]

Looking good mate. Loving my jacket aswell.

Any plans on washing it? I'm curious to see how the denim evolves.

[Vicarious]

Hey, thanks. Sugar Cane do good work.

I'm honestly not one for the 'no-wash' ritual many people put their jeans through. I wash my clothes when they need washing, raw denim or not. That being said, I don't think the jacket had needed a wash yet, and unless I get sprayed with mud or something I see it staying that way for a while. 

[altoclefchris]

Hey, thanks. Sugar Cane do good work.

I'm honestly not one for the 'no-wash' ritual many people put their jeans through. I wash my clothes when they need washing, raw denim or not. That being said, I don't think the jacket had needed a wash yet, and unless I get sprayed with mud or something I see it staying that way for a while. 

 

How would you describe the length? I'm interested in a Type II, and Sugar Cane's is great for the price, but as I'm tall all around I'm worried about that.

[summ3rhays]

Sweet jacket Vicarious!

Edited May 14, 2014 by summ3rhays

[bradl]

Hey, thanks. Sugar Cane do good work.

I'm honestly not one for the 'no-wash' ritual many people put their jeans through. I wash my clothes when they need washing, raw denim or not. That being said, I don't think the jacket had needed a wash yet, and unless I get sprayed with mud or something I see it staying that way for a while. 

My sentiments exactly. Jackets don't seem to get very dirty for me. But I am tempted to wash it just to see what it looks like after.

[Vicarious]

How would you describe the length? I'm interested in a Type II, and Sugar Cane's is great for the price, but as I'm tall all around I'm worried about that.

 

I'm 5'11. Traditionally, Type IIs are traditionally quite short and boxy, and I even tried a Type III before this one. This one is good for me though - not as cropped as I thought it would be. It's not a 'long' jacket by any stretch of the imagination, but it sits right.

[altoclefchris]

I'm 5'11. Traditionally, Type IIs are traditionally quite short and boxy, and I even tried a Type III before this one. This one is good for me though - not as cropped as I thought it would be. It's not a 'long' jacket by any stretch of the imagination, but it sits right.

 

Well, crap. Haha I'm nearly 6'4", but I was hoping a type II might work out. Thanks!

[Bobbo]

I don't really have time for it today but I'll measure my jacket (now that it's been through a wash) and compare it to one of my shirts later this week. 

 

Reverendglasseye: It took a little longer than expected but now I've got some measurements to show. Hopefully it helps.

My jacket (that was bought raw in size 40 and have seen one 40 degees wash): 

Pit to pit: 54 cm

Sleeve: 60 cm

Shoulder to shoulder: 48 cm

Length: 64 cm

My Lofgren-shirt (size small, do mind that it's an old school shirt, fairly long and on the brink of being to tight over the chest and shoulders):

Pit-Pit: 51,25 cm

Sleeve: 61,25 cm

Shoulder: 44,5 cm

Body: 71,25 cm

[ReverendGlasseye]

Reverendglasseye: It took a little longer than expected but now I've got some measurements to show. Hopefully it helps.

My jacket (that was bought raw in size 40 and have seen one 40 degees wash): 

Pit to pit: 54 cm

Sleeve: 60 cm

Shoulder to shoulder: 48 cm

Length: 64 cm

My Lofgren-shirt (size small, do mind that it's an old school shirt, fairly long and on the brink of being to tight over the chest and shoulders):

Pit-Pit: 51,25 cm

Sleeve: 61,25 cm

Shoulder: 44,5 cm

Body: 71,25 cm

 

Thanks for the measurements and all of your help!

[ColdsnapBryan]

Do jean jackets loose their creases and stacks if you hang them up for summer? Sorta like jeans do if you let them sit for months on end. 

[erockisalive]

Do jean jackets loose their creases and stacks if you hang them up for summer? Sorta like jeans do if you let them sit for months on end. 

I've never had a problem with that. 

[BigSugar]

What do people think of this Raw Black Hudson Jacket? They use to be more a bro brand, but some of there stuff looks okay. I have a blue denim jacket but want a serious black jacket. I loved the look of the Nudie Conny Dry Black Coated jackets when those were being made. Any other good black denim options people know of ? At 180$ it seems pretty good...

 

Edited May 17, 2014 by BigSugar

[BigSugar]

I also have a major thing for the Gunmetal black Indigofera shirt/jacket. Upsize it and it would be a killer jacket. Definitely a step up in price though:

 

[shredwin_206]

Just a heads up saw the sample for the second run of Momotaro x BlueOwl denim jacket yesterday at the shop. For anyone who is bummed they missed the first round. I believe they said it'll release in October/November and same price point as last time.

[BigSugar]

New Ande Whall effort:

 

 

[Dirty Thirty]

 

Sugar Cane, Type II. Worn it for about a year, I think? If my house was on fire and I could only grab one item of clothing... 

 

Yeah I know exactly what you mean. I've bought 5 or 6 denim jackets this year and only one I wear is my LVC type II. On the type 3's the sleeves are just too baggy. As far as type I, II, III the fit on these are the nicest, and I love the pleats, rectangle pleat tacks, and the silver buttons. 

[mpukas]

SEXIH22 Type III size XXL

 

Picked up from SELA when I was there last month. 

 

RAW fit pics. After a short cold wash and hang dry, it's snugged up a bit and is a very good fit on me now. Still stiff as cardboard after a few weeks of wear. Simply awesome jacket - thanks Kiya!!! 

 

 

 

 

 

(jeans are RJB 105BSP size 33. raw un-hemmed) 

[Dirty Thirty]

Anyone have any experience with the LVC made in Turkey type 2 jacket? I have an USA made LVC type 2 and the reason I love it is the sleeves are not too baggy like the type 3's tend to be. But this made in Turkey type 2 has sleeves that seem to be quite baggy. Anyone know if this is how most of the other Turkey made type 2's are?

[RRLselvageDenim]

This just arrived in the mail Today.

[Dirty Thirty]

That type 1 is looking really good man. How old is it? Those are some interesting fade lines on the sleeves, what's causing those? Don't think I've seen that before.

I actually just bought a brand new pair of LVC 1954 501z and have noticed it has some creases similar to that as well The have not come out with a hot soak/dryer treatment. Now they are setting in and fading at the crease line. They are not in an area where the jeans were folded or anything. My only thought is that machinery during sewing formed deep creases, or it was something that was done to the fabric before they were turned into a pair of pants. The main one is a crease about 15 inches long in the very front at the bottom of the leg right up my shin and then the crease abruptly stops below my knee.

[Cucoo]

Anyone here have experience with the Pike Brothers denim jacket? 1958 Roamer Jacket 11oz - I quite like the pocket flaps and the classic Lee look here.

 

I'm strongly considering this as my next denim jacket since my trusty Levi's Type III is starting to fall apart.

 

[mf051404]

My 1969 true vintage Levi's trucker jacket

[Dirty Thirty]

does anyone know if the made in japan Levi's 507 jackets are shorter than the LVC 507 jackets? That is what I think I am seeing in the measurements but I have never actually been able to compare them.

[Guest]

So it’s not quite a jacket….yet. There is a serious downside to being a woman and wearing raw denim - the lack of choices. Yes, we have a few options now, but we never get any of the cool stuff. I wanted a raw denim jacket, but the chances of me finding one that fit me well were basically 0, so I’m making my own. I thought there might be some interest in the process of drafting a pattern and constructing a jacket, with a borderline neurotic attention to detail and construction technique (I did a brief stint working at Threads magazine, which is a technique-oriented publication, so I tend to go into a lot of detail in individual decisions). At the moment I’m still in the pattern drafting stage, but I’ll be on the denim by the end of the week at this rate. 

 

First, the denim. Last year when I was in Japan I got a few yards of raw 12oz beige weft denim at a shop in Shinjuku (I have the tag with more details somewhere) and I decided to finally put it to use. It has a really light pink/peach selvedge line, which I plan to use down the center back inside, and on the back of the button plackets. 

 

 

I wanted a very feminine fit, but to keep some of the classic features of the denim jacket, so I copied the corseted paneling from a vintage Tahari jacket I already had. From there I drafted the pattern and adjusted it to accentuate the waist slightly more. I’m considering adding a band to the bottom to bring in a few of the more classic features beyond the yoke and 2-part sleeve. I haven’t quite worked out the details on the cuffs yet. 

(Please excuse my messy topstitching)

 

 

This is my third practice draft of the pattern, but once I get the sleeves in I’ll be transferring it to the denim to cut. I also added a classic 2-part western collar that I drew freehand, but it’s worked out pretty well so far. Just needs some minor tweaks. 

 

 

The major challenge with this is going to be getting the denim to work on the curves. It’s stiff and thick, and there are a lot of relatively dramatic curves with very little room for error, so getting it to manipulate and lay flat in order to topstitch is going to be a challenge. I did a test seam on it and it handles well enough, and I think with a hot iron and some steam I can get the curves to conform. Another issue I’m having is finishing the seams. I don’t have an overlock machine, nor do I like the way overlock looks, so that was out of the question. Normally on a jacket like this you would find felled seams, but the curves are going to make that impractical and not very effective. French seams, which are used in women’s wear quite often, have the same problem. My solution is to use bias-binding, which goes around curves very well, to cover the seams. Instead of store-bought navy blue though, I’m making my own using this gorgeous blue striped linen I picked up with the denim. I’m also considering using it on the inside of the cuffs. 

 

 

This method solves all my problems, and also gives it that very obviously hand made quality look that I really love in my jeans.  You can also see here a few of the machine needles. I spent a good 30 minutes agonizing over whether I should use an extra sharp topstitching needle or stick to a denim needle when I get around to the topstitching. After giving the denim a test run I’m definitely sticking to the denim needles. The blade is re-enforced so it has a lower chance of snapping when going through the layers.

 

The final details are being worked out as I go along (I have amazing and exciting plans for the buttons in the works) but I am very open to suggestions. You are all knowledgeable types, I wouldn’t be writing this if I didn’t want to know what you think. I’ll be by with updates soon, but in the mean time if anyone’s interested, I’ll be posting pictures on my instagram more frequently, and I’d be happy to answer questions here or there!

 

-Tori

 

 

[hollowsleather]

Great project!  There is a serious market gap for womens denim jackets.  If you can make something that's not ultra-feminized, crazy cropped, or washed into oblivion you can make some money.  Get your pattern graded and find someone to produce!

[Kwaker]

+ 2 ... enjoying the pictures and the thought-process going into the custom jacket

[Mr Black]

You could probably have saved yourself a few quid and bought mine...

 

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/152844-warehouse-lee-101j-aggies-size-40/

 

Still available if anyone wants it.

 

This just arrived in the mail Today.

[nutusufu]

The N&F Vintage Nudes jacket is a stubborn fader.

 

[bradl]

Wow wow tori, that is amazing. Love the denim you chose, not just some cone mills - premium denim outlet stuff either. 

 

I would honestly pay for one for my gf, as she is always looking for a denim jacket, but can never find one she likes. Plus I would hate to see her wear some crappy mall store brand one. 

Edited July 9, 2014 by bradl