THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

[King Boo]

Looking for my first pair of proper Japanese raw jeans. I'm after an understated slim straight / slim tapered (nothing too severe) jean with medium rise.

I've narrowed my search to the below. Be interested to hear thoughts on or alternatives to look at.

orSlow 107 slim - like everything except zip fly

TCB 50s Slim - Rise a bit low

Sugar cane 42014A 

Burgus plus are sold at a great price point but struggling to find details on their fits

Thanks

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Resolute 710 as an alternative

[King Boo]

Thanks. The 710 is the fit I'm after. May be out of budget after quick search as can't find a jap retailer

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

You can't find a Japanese retailer for Resolute?

http://pants-shop-avenue.com/category/6/

https://www.sapporo-base.jp/SHOP/g143835/list.html

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/bears/c/0000000499/

https://shop.zabou.org/?mode=cate&cbid=849637&csid=0

 

They all ship also overseas.

[King Boo]

Very useful, thanks.

I have no experience shopping from Japan, my search had involved only denimio and Okayama denim.

[Geeman]

Also look at SDA 107 that's a good fit in line with what you are looking for 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

38 minutes ago, King Boo said:

Very useful, thanks.

I have no experience shopping from Japan, my search had involved only denimio and Okayama denim.

Just contact the shops and write them a mail. Easy as that. Works perfectly with Pants Shop Avenue.
Or look here for Sapporo Base:
https://sapporo-base.blogspot.com/2020/08/for-international-customer.html

Where are you located?

[King Boo]

Thanks fo the advice. I'm in SE England. 

I'm thinking to get the SC42014.

The resolute and SDA are bit more than I'm wanting to spend.

 

 

[Geeman]

That's what we all said. ... 

This time next year youll have about 4 pairs 

[julian-wolf]

Who makes good linen or silk workshirts? My current go-to (a Tori Richards sample from a thrift store in Kailua Kona, I think) has treated me great but is starting to wear thin at the shoulders and elbows

Interested in something pretty lightweight to be worn on long hikes

Not limiting myself to "SuFu-approved" brands for this one, though I'd def. prefer ethical / small-scale production

Edited September 17, 2020 by julian-wolf

[Ar_thor]

@julian-wolf Mister Freedom have a couple but they're pretty expressive with a lot of funky details.

I got a Post Overalls plaid linen shirt this summer - very nice shirt but unfortunately I had to send it back as it didn't fit properly. End does stock it in 2 colours but it's pricey as fuck. I got mine on sale.

Indigofera also makes their Delray shirt in black linen. This has been my go to shirt this summer but it's short sleeve.

[JDelage]

Freewheelers has made some in the past, but I don't know that there's anything available right now.

Ironheart has a 5oz workshirt and a short sleeve, in indigo.

Edited September 17, 2020 by JDelage

[Duke Mantee]

15 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Who makes good linen or silk workshirts? My current go-to (a Tori Richards sample from a thrift store in Kailua Kona, I think) has treated me great but is starting to wear thin at the shoulders and elbows

Interested in something pretty lightweight to be worn on long hikes

Not limiting myself to "SuFu-approved" brands for this one, though I'd def. prefer ethical / small-scale production

This type of thing?

[julian-wolf]

Thanks for the recommendations so far—I’ve never liked Iron Heart much, but it seems like they could be an okay option for this; Indigofera could be good too

Freewheelers or Tender would be my top picks if they had anything like this currently available, but that doesn’t seem to be so

Also been thinking some about Sassafras

Pockets are a definite requirement (either one or two would be fine, the bigger the better, but not a fan of mismatched sizes / shapes)

Keep ‘em coming!

[Ar_thor]

I have one from Sassafras - it's a plaid one and the fabric is pretty heavy and textured. Great stuff - buttons are red though which is the only downside. Also it's pockets galore as always with SF.

Seeing that Carrier shirt got me thinking of S.E.H Kelly. He makes some beautiful stuff and I think he has some linen shirts. At least he used to.

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Thanks for the recommendations so far—I’ve never liked Iron Heart much, but it seems like they could be an okay option for this; Indigofera could be good too

Freewheelers or Tender would be my top picks if they had anything like this currently available, but that doesn’t seem to be so

Also been thinking some about Sassafras

Pockets are a definite requirement (either one or two would be fine, the bigger the better, but not a fan of mismatched sizes / shapes)

Keep ‘em coming!

You won’t find many FW linen shirts - 100% linen has never been a big thing in their shirt line up (there’s been a couple) but cotton/linen mixes perhaps if that’s acceptable?

Django Atour are a Japanese brand where linen features quite heavily (in all their clothing) 

Edited September 17, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[julian-wolf]

Django Atour looks like exactly what I’m after, provided the sizing can be made to work (their measurements make the sleeves seem very short, but they may be measuring from the armpit rather than the shoulder—I’ll need to poke around and find some other sources)

Any experience with them, Duke? Know of anyone who carries them & is willing to deal with international shipping?

edit: Looks like Atelier Gardenia ships direct—this could be dangerous…

Edited September 17, 2020 by julian-wolf

[unders]

@julian-wolf Masuya 1997 also stock them and ship internationally. I bought some Westride jeans from them a few years back and it was smooth. 

[Ar_thor]

Fuck me, those are nice. 

Never heard of them before.

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Django Atour looks like exactly what I’m after, provided the sizing can be made to work (their measurements make the sleeves seem very short, but they may be measuring from the armpit rather than the shoulder—I’ll need to poke around and find some other sources)

Any experience with them, Duke? Know of anyone who carries them & is willing to deal with international shipping?

edit: Looks like Atelier Gardenia ships direct—this could be dangerous…

 

1 hour ago, unders said:

@julian-wolf Masuya 1997 also stock them and ship internationally. I bought some Westride jeans from them a few years back and it was smooth. 

Under has given you one of the best dealers - Hiroyoshi is very helpful (tax, shipping etc and his website gives you great specifics, descriptions and sizing). I’ve bought quite a lot from Masuya, and it was always a good experience.

Django Atour are very stylised but more than decent in quality - fit is mostly on the trim side, but certainly not undersized. Good proportions 

[julian-wolf]

Looks like all the Django shirts top out at around 24" in the sleeves, but I'm tempted to give one a go anyhow since I tend to roll up my sleeves anyhow when I'm working outside / trekking / whatever

Meanwhile, found a great linen Cushmans shirt on sale; it's tagged XL but the posted measurements (on Masuya 1997—thanks again for that tip) have the shoulders at 47 cm, which seems very small for an XL, even in Japanese sizing…any experience with Cushmans sizing? Does this seem realistic?

[oomslokop]

just dont get this one its got my name on it  https://masuya1997.com/item/djangoatour-classic-frenchwork-linen-shirt-anotherline-3/

seconding @unders and @Duke Mantee that hiroyoshi is the man, super service. 

one thing to note django atour stuff is not as workwearish heavy duty as some other brands here, tho that might actually suit yr need (just dont order the shirt above :D). i have this baker's tweed jacket that i thought could be warm enough for when i was travelling in the uk, not even in winter, and i was still freezing my bollocks off. but the jacket is very pretty.

cool collar/button placement, apparently inspired by russian work jacket?

[discwork]

I've been considering pulling the trigger on TCB's Tabby's Jacket because it has a shorter body length on it than most chore coat-ish styles (e.g. orSlow). Any other options I should take a look at?

Edited September 19, 2020 by discwork

[Guest]

Should I get shoe trees to use in my boots (Chippewa)? Anyone have experience with Woodlore?

[Ar_thor]

2 hours ago, justintk said:

Should I get shoe trees to use in my boots (Chippewa)? Anyone have experience with Woodlore?

It depends on how you want them to age and how often you wear them. If you don't wear them everyday the moisture won't build up that much and shoe trees isn't really necessary for that reason. On the other hand, if you want to keep them nice and straight without creases it might be a good idea (however I personally don't think that kind of boot/shoe calls for that treatment). Zealots will tell you that it doesn't matter unless the shoe trees are made from the actual last.

I don't use them, if I had a pair of nice dress shoes I probably would.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Ar_thor said:

It depends on how you want them to age and how often you wear them. If you don't wear them everyday the moisture won't build up that much and shoe trees isn't really necessary for that reason. On the other hand, if you want to keep them nice and straight without creases it might be a good idea (however I personally don't think that kind of boot/shoe calls for that treatment). Zealots will tell you that it doesn't matter unless the shoe trees are made from the actual last.

I don't use them, if I had a pair of nice dress shoes I probably would.

Thanks! That's kind of what I was thinking. I don't wear them every day, and they are not super nice or anything (crazy horse leather). I'm more of a "beat up" look person anyway.

[lee porter]

Hi I want a pair of jeans with a good train track fade is there certain brand model that are good for the  train tracks fades ?

[Thanks_M8]

Wash 'em right side out, use a dryer and buy unsanforized and you'll probably get great train tracks. Best I've seen were on resolutes, orslows, tcbs, but all heavily washed out.

[Maynard Friedman]

Steam Locomotive or Railcar will give you great train tracks.

[lee porter]

Cheers thanks thanks mate your winding me up aren’t you Maynard? :-)