Studio D'artisan

[DhaDha]

thanks for the reply Foxy. looks like there can be more space for more Ai jeans in the future!

[ironheartfan123]

quick fit pics of my D1677 size 34.

 

great fit..

[ironheartfan123]

Even some fit pics

another great fit! has the 101 cut always been this good or is this a modified 101?

Edited August 17, 2015 by ironheartfan123

[Maynard Friedman]

Modified. The 101 fit has a higher rise, those 1677s are (as Foxy already mentioned) more like a fuller, 101-style widish leg cut but with a shorter 103-style rise.

[ironheartfan123]

thanks for the info! really great fits..i think i'm going to hold off on these though since the back pocket looks to be on the large side..i like big back pockets from a practical stand point but they don't look great on me

Edited August 17, 2015 by ironheartfan123

[mpukas]

@Foxy - thanks for taking the time to post all of that. You have a truly amazing collection of truly amazing denim! 

 

Questions for you: 

Have you washed and do you wear them all, at one time or another? 

Have you have them all hemmed to your length? 

 

and 

 

After comparing them all, considering all things but mainly cut and denim, do you have a favorite pair? 

What is your overall impression of the D1677? 

 

Thanks Foxy! mpp

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Foxy2]

Superb comparatives Foxy! Quality posts.

Thanks - not sure if it is of much help...but at least it comes with some pics, even pics with a cat...

@Foxy - thanks for taking the time to post all of that. You have a truly amazing collection of truly amazing denim!

Questions for you:

Have you washed and do you wear them all, at one time or another?

Have you have them all hemmed to your length?

and

After comparing them all, considering all things but mainly cut and denim, do you have a favorite pair?

What is your overall impression of the D1677?

Thanks Foxy! mpp

My collection of Japanese denim consists of new purchases, trades and "vintage" pieces (less than 20 years old). Most of the trades and vintage pairs are already soaked, washed, worn and/or hemmed - it is out of my control. Most of my new purchases are getting soaked and hemmed, as I will wear them at least initially. I collect to satisfy my own curiosity and not to preserve or increase monetary value.

I have a few pairs that are sealed, un-soaked and un-hemmed - they are mostly intended to replace at some point in the future my favorite pairs currently in rotation.

Furthermore, I have a few pairs in off sizes, as they difficult to come by in general or hard to size correctly - which means I also have a few duplicates.

I certainly have favorite brands with preferred cuts:

Samurai - 5000, 500, 526 cuts - Zero and the old Jin denim

FullCount – 1108 cut in various incarnations

Studio D'Artisan - 103 cut in various & tweaked versions

The Flathead/RJB - 3005 cut and denim (including AI mix), D105LTD cut and denims

Mister Freedom - Lot 64 cut

There are a couple of other brands and cuts not mentioned here that I quite like and wear or collect for their cuts or denim fabrics.

There are also some gaps in my collection - certain brands have not yet drawn my attention in the way others have: Denime, Resolute, Evis/Evisu and others...

Regarding D1677: They seem to be a nice pair, if you can deal with the short & modern rise. I still have to make up my mind if I'll get them hemmed in order to wear them more often...

Edited August 21, 2015 by Foxy2

[Maynard Friedman]

The cut wouldn't work for me but I'd like to see someone wear these Wrangler repros:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=16515&category_id=45&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

[MileHighEvertonian]

^I saw those the other day too, Maynard. Getting some broken twill added to the collection was really tempting, until I saw the front/rear rise measurements. Seems to be a weird hybrid cut not unlike what people have been saying about the D1677s.

[Iron Horse]

The cut wouldn't work for me but I'd like to see someone wear these Wrangler repros:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=16515&category_id=45&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=62

 

I was very tempted by these last winter when they were at Take 5. Can't remember why I passed on them, I love the look of Wrangler repros (Lee too). Maybe next pair...

[mpukas]

D1677 size 34 washed measurements (inches); 

 

waist: 31.5

front rise: 10 

back rise: 13.5

thigh: 12

knee: 9

hem: 8.5

inseam (unhemmed): 33.75 

 

They've shrunk a lot. The rise is low. Ball crusher low. They feel tight at the waist because they sit so low on my hips. Gives me a killer muffin top. If the rise was 1" taller front and back, I'd be head over heels for them. The loose weave feels like it will stretch quite a bit, especially in the waist and hips, but I don't think the rise will give much at all. 

 

ATM, I'm not sure how I feel about them... denim, construction, details, etc. are all amazing, but the low rise is almost too low for me. The proportion of the back pockets to back yoke is too close, and gives them a cramped look. If the rise was higher and there was a little more space between the yoke and pockets it would better. I don't mind the big back pockets. 

 

[mpukas]

compared to my IH 634-XHS size 33 comp jeans, Foxy style. 

 

 

compared to Samurai S510OG 16oz AK size 33

 

 

The top block is tighter and the front & back rise lower than both pairs. 

[Foxy2]

The fit is great - it definitely should work with un-tucked, shorter tee or shirt.

That is, if you can make the rise work for you...

Personally, I like to switch to a pair with shorter rise (SD 103 or RJB D105, etc.) every now and then. (And, I don't mind the muffin top they give me too much - a sign of the times, aka my age.)

Edited August 20, 2015 by Foxy2

[BrownMetallic]

^ Benefit of having a more comprehensive jeans collection ;)

Same here__ tho not in the same level ... come to think of it, IDK if any1 here is on same league as u, foxy

@mpukas__ thats a textbook midrise, tho. A SU would prolly make a difference in "feel"

Edited August 20, 2015 by BrownMetallic

[tigerstrom]

I want some more SDAs. I have the sd-107 and love the fabric but I don't like the slim cut. I want a cut more like my evisu 2000.

[Blue Nemo]

been running with my boss through SDA order sheets today, and if everything is working out as planned, Germany/Europe will see some SDA love in the near future! for a decent price I have to add.

really excited about this!!

Edited August 20, 2015 by Blue Nemo

[Maynard Friedman]

I want some more SDAs. I have the sd-107 and love the fabric but I don't like the slim cut. I want a cut more like my evisu 2000.

Get some SD-101s. In order from loose to tight, the SD range goes:

102

101

103

106

107

[tigerstrom]

Thanks mate!

[bradl]

D1677 size 34 washed measurements (inches);

waist: 31.5

front rise: 10

back rise: 13.5

thigh: 12

knee: 9

hem: 8.5

inseam (unhemmed): 33.75

They've shrunk a lot. The rise is low. Ball crusher low. They feel tight at the waist because they sit so low on my hips. Gives me a killer muffin top. If the rise was 1" taller front and back, I'd be head over heels for them. The loose weave feels like it will stretch quite a bit, especially in the waist and hips, but I don't think the rise will give much at all.

ATM, I'm not sure how I feel about them... denim, construction, details, etc. are all amazing, but the low rise is almost too low for me. The proportion of the back pockets to back yoke is too close, and gives them a cramped look. If the rise was higher and there was a little more space between the yoke and pockets it would better. I don't mind the big back pockets.

I know comfort is all that matters, but they look like they fit perfectly. Be patient, I felt same way about my 33 and over time either I got use to it or it stretched just enough to be comfortable.

But if you grow tired of them I may be interested.

[mpukas]

@mpukas__ thats a textbook midrise, tho. A SU would prolly make a difference in "feel"

 

@mpukas__ thats a textbook midrise, tho. A SU would prolly make a difference in "feel"

Really? I think of anything below 10" front rise to be low rise, up to about 11.5" mid-rise, and anything over 12" high rise. But there are no real standards/definitions, so it's rather subjective. Regardless of measurements, these barely come up to my hip bones, so to me that's low rise. 

 

what's SU? Not familiar. 

 

I know comfort is all that matters, but they look like they fit perfectly. Be patient, I felt same way about my 33 and over time either I got use to it or it stretched just enough to be comfortable.

But if you grow tired of them I may be interested.

@Brad - I agree the fit looks better in the pics than they feel to me, but it's what I'm used to ATM. They are slightly higher rise than the SG 5105 that I had to move along, but lower than all of my other jeans. I'll give them some time and see how they evolve. I think they'll eventually fit very well. 

 

 

 

BTW - I only tucked my tee in for fit pics. I always wear tee's untucked. 

[itsbenhere]

su is size up. 

 

I think a 10" rise on a pair of size 33 jeans is definitely low.

[Foxy2]

^ Benefit of having a more comprehensive jeans collection ;)

Same here__ tho not in the same level ... come to think of it, IDK if any1 here is on same league as u, foxy

@mpukas__ thats a textbook midrise, tho. A SU would prolly make a difference in "feel"

I'm looking up to your collection and your ability to keep it real!

In terms of sheer size - there is always Ed with his collection...should make mine look small.

been running with my boss through SDA order sheets today, and if everything is working out as planned, Germany/Europe will see some SDA love in the near future! for a decent price I have to add.

really excited about this!!

Good luck with that!

Certainly not the first in Getmany to try - usually, they give up after a while. SDA are not easy to sell. Similar to the traffic in this thread: mostly dead...

[Maynard Friedman]

^ why do you think that is Foxy? I've often wondered why SDA aren't more popular, my 101s are fantastic and possibly my favourites alongside my Ande Whall SR7s.

The thread was pretty dead until all the talk of those D1677s started, it's really come alive recently I'm pleased to say.

[bradl]

Most of the other Japanese brands are "sexier". People's first foray into Japanese denim is usually samurai, pbj, IH or tfh. Then a chunk seems to go with the lesser known brands and sda falls in between all of that.

That's just my take but would be Inretested to hear what others think.

Edited August 21, 2015 by bradl

[itsbenhere]

Personally I wasn't interested in SDA because the faded denim doesn't do it for me. Fit is most important but second, to me, is the denim and how it ages. There is nothing bad at all about SDA's usual denim, but it just doesn't do it for me. I think of it as a denim fading opportunity cost, I want to be fading the pair that will look the best to me down the road.

 

I've been interested in hank dyed stuff for a while now, so when SDA came out with one and it appeared (although not so sure anymore) to have a cut that would work it definitely piqued my interest. SDA has always seemed authentic and not gimmicky in the least to me, unlike some other brands that I probably will never look into no matter what - momotaro, samurai, pbj, etc. Thena gain these are more japanese....

 

I think SDA also appeals to an older audience in japan so maybe that gets translated overseas too.

[bradl]

Seems like they are not represented the best and when they're it's their standard stuff, which isn't bad. But BiG has to be only international place that takes a risk with some of their new/limited/one run cuts

[Broark]

I still hold onto my SD1538XX-B in the hopes that I can lose a little bit of weight and make the lower rise work since they're made with some of the coolest denim in my collection.

I still would like some 101XX's at some point, since I think that cut would be a bit better for me.

[BrownMetallic]

^ why do you think that is Foxy? I've often wondered why SDA aren't more popular, my 101s are fantastic and possibly my favourites alongside my Ande Whall SR7s.

The thread was pretty dead until all the talk of those D1677s started, it's really come alive recently I'm pleased to say.

Snail pace evo ... takes 4ever to report any significant change. Hence, we mostly get posts of new stuff ... big chunk of those get passed along, missing its chance to be documented for fade glory Edited August 21, 2015 by BrownMetallic

[whozdrew?]

My first pair of Studio D'artisan -- 1666W, wabash, cinch back, button fly, hidden rear rivets... They're nice.

Picked them up at BiG on my trip to NYC a few weeks ago. Some of the best service I've encountered, especially considering that Japanese, not English, was everyone's first language. Had these hemmed, and shipped back to my place in California. 

 

W34(usually a 32), L30.5 ... Rise is a bit lower than I'm used to, but the fuller leg is something I'm really liking.