Studio D'artisan

[Foxy2]

the best fitting technical term is probably seam puckering - usually, something we don't want to happen in garment production!

it's driven by stitch class/type, thread tension, thread size, fabric thickness and seam construction. even needle size can play into this.

lined yokes will add to the layers of fabric forming the seam: back yoke seams are typical felled seams - fake felled seams will need 3 (seam allowance) fabric layers - real felled seams will have 4-5 fabric layers.
lined yokes would add add another 1-2 layers...

depending on fabric and lining fabric thickness this can result in pretty rigid seams if one does not optimize seam type, stitch density, stitch width, thread size, thread tension and needle size.

SDA used to do lined yokes for their higher end or special make-ups with triple-stitched back yokes. also, these models featured heavier, starchy and rigid denim.

lined yokes (or lined back pocket bags) can create an additional issue if one of the fabrics shrinks at a significantly different rate and/or direction.

[holio cornolio]

I’ve decided preeeetty much that I will pull the trigger on a pair of sd103 as my next purchase, but I’m struggling a bit with sizing with SDA. My fav fitting pair of jeans are my much loved TCB 60s, and as far as I can tell, the 103 share quite a similar cut, just a cm or so higher rise. But I’m sure I’ve read that sda shrinkage is quite pronounced. I’m wearing a 32 in the TCBs and could probably get away with a 31. Should I go for a 32 in SDA? Cheers 

[Maynard Friedman]

I’d go for a 32 I think, what’s your actual waist size?

[Geeman]

I wouldn't suggest sizing down on SDA, they come up small in the waist and don't have a lot of stretch 

[holio cornolio]

7 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I’d go for a 32 I think, what’s your actual waist size?

A bit under 32”. 

Edit just measured - actually a bit under 33 actual measured waist size.

Edited September 17, 2018 by holio cornolio

[Maynard Friedman]

I'd say get a 32 then, I think a 31 would be a bit of a squeeze.

[501XX4EVER]

7 hours ago, Geeman said:

I wouldn't suggest sizing down on SDA, they come up small in the waist and don't have a lot of stretch 

This, I'd also double check any front and back rise measurements.

[JDelage]

I have worn the SDA denim workshirt today both in its "regular" version as well as the suvin gold version. The suvin gold wears much warmer for some reason...

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I can only speak for the Suvin Gold jeans and as far as Iknow they use a different denim than the work shirt but the denim on the jeans have a pretty dense weave.

[chambo2008]

Anyone after some 103 I think, I wore them the other day and my wife said they are the worst fitting pair of jeans on me ever! Didn't think they sudked that much.. hot soaked hardly worn size 30 pm me if interested as supermarket is confusing me these days 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Some impressions...I know I'm lazy

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2018 by beautiful_FrEaK

[swiss-jeansfreak]

I love those superb detail shots!!!!!!!!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks Ruedi!
To my surprise the jeans barely shrank in the wash. My usual routine (first soak to make them pliabe, then machine wash with detergent @ 40 °C) only shrank them 1" in the waist and inseam. Makes me think it might have been better to take size 34 in these despite the lower rise. But I gonna wash them at 60 °C this weekend and hope I can get another inch of shrinkage in both waist and inseam. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

And fit pics of the D1708

Edited September 26, 2018 by beautiful_FrEaK

[oomslokop]

they look great! don't exchange them for 36 just send them to me! 

[Cold Summer]

Those look like a great fit to me! Though maybe they're loose in the waistband, hard to tell. I'd think sizing down might be a little too tight in the leg.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yes after seeing those fit pics I already thought: no way I should size down!
They just feel pretty loose at the waist and are really held up by the belt. But with a hot wash this is hopefully solved.

And thanks guys!

[Broark]

They fit you well b_F, I really like the details on the D1708!

[Maynard Friedman]

They look great b_F, definitely a keeper imho.

[JDelage]

Yeah, I like the fit too. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

And a picture of the backside fit, nicely centered on my ass (just for you Ed!)

[beautiful_FrEaK]

And while we are at it, here's an fit update of the D1755 Suvin Gold. Worn for some weeks and washed 2 or 3 times. The denim is very soft and comfortable. The after wash crunchiness does away pretty quickly.

[JDelage]

Anyone picked up the double indigo G3 jacket? It looks pretty nice.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Little preview on how the G3 denim fades. 8 months, taken from SDA blog.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Preview for the 40th anniversary were up on Okayama Denim's instagram stories. Looked like 4 pairs of jeans for the anniversary. Really curious what the specs will look like

 

On other news, recently I complained about the lack of roping on SdA jeans. I don't think I will have problems with this on the D1708:

[Indigo in May]

 my custom STD 1755  suvin gold

[Foxy2]

21 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Preview for the 40th anniversary were up on Okayama Denim's instagram stories. Looked like 4 pairs of jeans for the anniversary. Really curious what the specs will look like

 

On other news, recently I complained about the lack of roping on SdA jeans. I don't think I will have problems with this on the D1708:

yeah, looking forward to that as well - there should be at least one interesting pair in there for us.
maybe PSA gets inthere as well with an additional spin...

good news regarding the roping of your hems!

[Geeman]

Bought this hickory stripe shirt in the new SDA store in Ebisu/Dakinyama, haven't seen it elsewhere. Label's different to my other SDA shirts so thinking it may be exclusive to the Ebisu store? Anyone else came across it? Seen similar but with different buttons?

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

After a 60°C wash and some days of wear. The top block tightened up a bit.

[Broark]

Really interested in trying out the Fox fiber collection, particularly the darker khaki denim and maybe a sweatshirt as well.