Studio D'artisan

[Foxy2]

Same jeans - different day (and a Red Cloud shirt)...

[itsbenhere]

So, they came, and presoak they measure extremely close to presoak 3005. Like others have said, only a bit worried about the rise and crotch, although I do like a somewhat low rise. Not worried about the thighs or legs at all, which is nice. So, keep and soak? Still can return... but I think these might be worth the gamble to hot wash.

 

 

 

[chicote]

They look great to me! What drew you to these SDAs? Or, to phrase it more clearly, what drew you away from Flat Head?

Edited January 11, 2016 by chicote

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Give them a try!

[Rightyow77]

They look great Ben, and that denim in itself is worth a shot.

[kukupoint]

but I think these might be worth the gamble to hot wash.

I'd take the risk...in the cool water (for a while,20 -30С 30-40 minutes).

Fit very well.

Edited January 11, 2016 by kukupoint

[Sugar Mountain]

Fit looks good, although there is the risk of having junk-huggers post-soak. May as well gamble!

[kukupoint]

Random photo XS-29

[itsbenhere]

They look great to me! What drew you to these SDAs? Or, to phrase it more clearly, what drew you away from Flat Head?

 

 

I've wanted some hank-dyed natural indigo jeans for a while now, and I'm pretty confident that flat head/RJB won't make them. If they did, those would be the ones I'd buy... anyway, these are made by a legit brand, imo a good price for the type of denim they are, and are both loose like I like and have a shorter rise. I figure that combo is somewhat rare to come by!

 

 

Fit looks good, although there is the risk of having junk-huggers post-soak. May as well gamble!

 

 

They've got a hot wash and shrunk a bunch. Everywhere is perfect, except the waist/crotch area. Going to wear them a few days and make a decision... The denim is pretty crazy, super bumpy after it hit water.

[Cold Summer]

Pre-soak fit looks nice Ben - seems like a cool fabric too.

 

Have you thought about trying to get some D105s or 105BSPs from RJB? Those would be close to the type of fit you like (straight leg, medium rise) but in a denim that's different enough from the standard FH fabric. 

 

I also think you might like the Samurai S0500xx, since it's on the straighter side - maybe a little bit slimmer than the 3009, but with a lower rise. And the denim is quite similar to FH.

[itsbenhere]

I've been looking into the D105/105BSP for a while now, a pair of jeans in RJB's denim is all I want now that I have these SDA, which I think are going to work .

 

But my 3005 fit like how your D105 did kinda, so I'm afraid that the RJBs would be too slim for me in the thigh.

 

I think that as far as regular jeans go, I'm just going to stick with FH and RJB (eventually)... even though other jeans are obviously really nice too.

 

Also, the denim on these is just insane. Honestly, i think that when you get to a level like this jeans making becomes art.

 

They're insanely bumpy, have little knots of fabric everywhere, and different densities of warp/weft... I think I've also never felt a more stubborn denim.

[mpukas]

@Ben - pics are really dark, but from what I can see the pre-soak fit looks good. Like spot on. 

 

I've worn mine for a a couple weeks total on and off, and the denim will give in the waist a bit, but not much if any in the rise. I'm surprised that they've turned out to be rather comfortable for such a low rise, tight crotch and tight waist. 

 

In my experience with loose weaves like this, I find that they stretch and shrink a lot before they finally settle. I think that if these were the same post-wash measurements made out of a denser weave, they wouldn't be as comfortable. The loose weave has a fair amount of give when wearing them. 

 

I also think brands working with loose weaves like this need to make adjustments to their patterns to accommodate for how much shrinkage occurs, and where it occurs. 

[itsbenhere]

And the fit, post hot wash and after half a days wear!

 

 

 

[Sugar Mountain]

^ Cut looks like it's going to work once they give a little in the top block.

[Foxy2]

Looks good!

[Foxy2]

SDA 1677 today...

Still breaking them in - a bit painful around the waist.

[Foxy2]

On a related note - the Xmas pair did arrive over the holidays: X's-36

Nice packaging...

Black and Blue denim...

Black (grey) threads, nice pocket bag fabric and green selvage...

Smooth and regular texture...

[Foxy2]

A Zippo was released (separately) as well - Black and Blue Denim...

(Almost disappointed that they stuck to proper English on the Zippo...)

[kukupoint]

Foxy,do you think that if something is common in the technology of dyeing between X's-X's 36 and-31 ?

Of course,denim is different.Can you describe the differences for perception ?

Here's what I see - X's-31 black-and-blue (almost black when they are new),X's-36 is close to the color "asphalt" with some blue . Am I right ?

[Foxy2]

The dyeing technique and the dyestuff might be similar, but X's-31 is over-dyed (finished fabric, warp and weft) and X's-36 has warp and weft yarns dyed separately in different colors.

Edited January 12, 2016 by Foxy2

[Kathrynnaomi]

I'm waiting for some sd307 18.5 oz from Denimio to arrive. I sized up from my normal Ironheart and Flathead sizing so I'm a bit nervous. Really wanting these to work out, such beautiful looking denim! If they are a bit big is it worth sticking with them and giving them a hot soak?

[bradl]

Ben that fit is dope, but dont know how you get down with that low of a rise. You going to rotate them, or stash away when your 3005 get back?

[Geeman]

I'm waiting for some sd307 18.5 oz from Denimio to arrive. I sized up from my normal Ironheart and Flathead sizing so I'm a bit nervous. Really wanting these to work out, such beautiful looking denim! If they are a bit big is it worth sticking with them and giving them a hot soak?

Hey! SDA are quite small at the waist compared to tag so you may be OK, the 15oz don't shrink massively but they do stretch out, not sure on the 18oz. Are the ones you ordered raw? (This is thegeelewis from instagram by the way )

[Kathrynnaomi]

Hey! SDA are quite small at the waist compared to tag so you may be OK, the 15oz don't shrink massively but they do stretch out, not sure on the 18oz. Are the ones you ordered raw? (This is thegeelewis from instagram by the way )

Small world!! Cool, I've just washed my Ironheart 555-02 after 6 months and they are SNUG, hence the sizing up dilemma! I really like the look of the 18.5 oz denim and have wanted a slim pair of SDA for ages so I'm really hoping I can make these work. Yours look lovely on Instagram btw!

Edited January 13, 2016 by Kathrynnaomi

[guthriegking]

Ben that fit is spot on! looks perfect imo

[MileHighEvertonian]

While snagging an SDA chore coat on sale from Blue Owl (out of Seattle), which I'll post once it arrives tomorrow, I noticed that they also have SD-103s on sale for 185 USD in just about every size. 

 

http://www.blueowl.us/collections/studio-dartisan/products/studio-dartisan-tight-straight-15oz-unsanforized-raw-selvedge-denim-sd-103?variant=8322988609

[kss447]

That's a great deal. Here's what they will look like in a year.

[MileHighEvertonian]

Here's the SDA chore coat I snagged on sale from BlueOwl. The 19oz duck canvas is extremely rigid, but I figure in about a month that will change. Even though there's plenty of room in the sleeves, the armholes are a bit higher and narrower than I'd prefer, and combine with the stiffness of the canvas make layering underneath a bit uncomfortable so far. 

 

I like the look of this pocket, but it's almost entirely useless for my purposes (no pocket watch!)

 

My favorite detail is the "hidden" repro union garment label:

 

One question remains: to wax or not to wax?

[goodrain]

looks nice and heftier than most duck jackets/coats. Fit pics? No wax imo

[Sugar Mountain]

Excellent jacket - I've seen other nice chore coats from SDA in the past too. I would also say don't wax it and instead just get some hard wear on it. Looks like it can take a beating!