Shoes that look better with age...

[tod]

And here is the current boot lineup: 

White's, 3 yrs / Aldens 2.5 yrs / RDTs 1 yr

 

[Broark]

Those RDT with the resole look very nice, I just wish they made bigger sizes. 

[Sugar Mountain]

Really love the look of the resoled RDT. Transforms the shoe into something I would definitely wear now.

[oomslokop]

rdt looks superb! did the resole make the whole shoes a whole lotta lighter @tod?

[tod]

On 5/23/2017 at 3:56 AM, oomslokop said:

rdt looks superb! did the resole make the whole shoes a whole lotta lighter @tod?

Yes, definitely lighter.  Feels a bit weird, cause I am used to heavier boots, but it's nice for a change.  I see now what people mean by "sneaker boots."

[Broark]

Alright guys, so I think I decided I want to resole my Viberg 1035 derbies with a Vibram 2060 sole. Or something similar.
Should I try and source the job locally or should I reach out to a guy like Brian at Role Club to tackle the job?
Haven't had any boots/shoes resoled myself, and these haven't had a ton of use. I just feel like the stacked leather soles are too dressy and have zero grip. I wore them today and was sliding around on pavement and grass left and right. Plus I've always just wanted a pair of derbies with a wedge sole like that.
Any suggestions?

[rungo]

I've had good success in my locale finding a cobbler recognized for  working on quality goodyear welted footwear, for one piece resoles.  Work has been tidy, and held up well enough to warrant a return trip once the sole had worn down.  Most cobblers working on footwear that is expensive enough to deserve being repaired these days need to be pretty competent, otherwise I don't think their business would stay open very long.

Also in a personal opinion, the Vibram 2060 is one of the worst soles ever put on a boot. It may be long wearing and have that 'squishy' feel, but the grip is between awful and horrendous. I find more grip on my leather sole/stacked heel shoes than with the 2060. Not as long wearing, but the Christy (4014) sole, has proven to have better performance in varied conditions, with a pretty high level of comfort. It is heavier, though.

Edited May 26, 2017 by rungo

[Broark]

Much appreciated on the feedback, as far as looks go the 2060 is what I'm after but I'm definitely open to other options. I just wanted something with that wedge style look that would give me a bit more comfort and a more casual looking shoe overall.
Basically I like a lot of the derby models that Viberg offers (or offered in the past) for the Japanese market: wedge sole, basically looking like a low cut boot. I figured the 2060 was the best option to keep the profile somewhat low. I might even see if they could add some eyelets to the shoe, since currently they are blind eyelet construction.
I figure living in Austin I could probably find a reputable boot shop that works on GYW boots that would be willing to do the resole.

[mlwdp]

I got a Vibram 2060 sole on my oxfords and boots.  They wear out quickly.  I think a few others here said the same thing about their durability if I'm not mistaken. 

[alvin_cheong]

@Broark  think going to Brian will be a better choice.

[mrman]

Don't know the construction of your derbies but if it's stitchdown and you want it to stay that way, I guess that Viberg or Brian are your best options. Gyw is no challenge to competent cobblers but stitchdown is another matter.

[Sugar Mountain]

Viberg will also resole the shoe for you. Worth looking into how much that would cost vs. sending to Brian.

[Broark]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, I might reach out to Viberg and see if they would be willing to resole the derbies. I wonder how much it'll cost with shipping and everything. I doubt they would be willing to add eyelets to the shoes though, but who knows?

[itsbenhere]

I think the only most sensible option for adding eyelets would be to call Josh at good art and get some sterling on those bad boys!

[Broark]

Now we're talkin'. 

[garden gnomes in space]

Even if you send them to Viberg I doubt the 2060 would be stitched down but I could be mistaken.  Ive had a few pairs done locally and they were fine.  The 2060 grips fine on concrete.  Just dont expect miracles anywhere else.  Same with the christy.  I personally love them

Edited May 27, 2017 by garden gnomes in space

[BrownMetallic]

@Broark 'Got the GYW Viberg Derby myself.  Imo, it'll be like a full resole due to its construction ... conversion would prolly be north of 180, depending on who is doing it.

The leather midsole has to come off &  replaced with one that can take in a 360 degree stitch to attach a thin rubber liner__ where the rubber outsole can be glued/cemented. 

I'm planning on a Gloxi-cut  for my 'berg moctoe chukkas ... w/c are on white christys,  so it'll be easier/cheaper to resole.

Edited May 27, 2017 by BrownMetallic

[mlwdp]

Can a last be changed on a boot?  I'm having last minute second thoughts on a boot Bakers is building for me and I'm debating on getting the last changed from standard to semi dress or 461.  Is this possible?

[BrownMetallic]

@mlwdp  

When u say "standard", u mean Whites standard SJ?! ... If they're the standard SDs tho, the only difference is the tapered heel, as opposed to a block heel.

A re-last, however, means lopping off the entire sole & refitted/molded to the new last, so it's a full resole & relast ... w/c can even be more costly ... plus, u risk the possibility of an effed-up job or a result you're not satisfied.   You're better off selling & ordering a new build u like.

[mlwdp]

26 minutes ago, BrownMetallic said:

@mlwdp  

When u say "standard", u mean Whites standard SJ?! ... If they're the standard SDs tho, the only difference is the tapered heel, as opposed to a block heel.

A re-last, however, means lopping off the entire sole & refitted/molded to the new last, so it's a full resole & relast ... w/c can even be more costly ... plus, u risk the possibility of an effed-up job or a result you're not satisfied.   You're better off selling & ordering a new build u like.

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of.  I did the SJ in a standard last instead of the semi dress and was wondering what the difference was. The look I'm going for is 

Would the last make a noticeable difference in look anyway?  

Edited May 27, 2017 by mlwdp

[BrownMetallic]

^A standard SJ has unstructured/soft toes & lug soles.

Photo shows SJ aesthetics__ very nice, actually ... I think the non-standard build is called FarmerRancher, but not sure.

If u want  the look of an SJ, but the feel/wear of an SD,  then opt for a hybrid:

SJ on SD last = Bounty Hunter.

Edited May 27, 2017 by BrownMetallic

[erk]

On 5/27/2017 at 11:19 AM, mlwdp said:

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of.  I did the SJ in a standard last instead of the semi dress and was wondering what the difference was. The look I'm going for is 

 

Would the last make a noticeable difference in look anyway?  

I think they look pretty similar from the side. I can't tell if that pair is a SD last or if its SJ. I think both look good and if you've already made you're order you should feel fine. Either last is a good decision. These are my farmer ranchers - SJ last (4811)

[erk]

[tod]

As those lasts show, the SJ looks a bit "stubbier" in the toe box, which I like. But my experience trying both on is that the SJ ends up feeling tighter than the SD, which surprised me.  (It also messed up my sizing because Baker's sent me an SJ in 9.5E as a try-on and it felt tight, but when I ordered 9.5EE in SD it ended up being huge... Though to be fair, it seems that White's sizing can be a bit upredictable.)

[BrownMetallic]

^Yeah, SD is 1/2 size down from SJ.

I made a similar mistake__ had the standard SJ @8.5E 1st, w/c fit me very well.  So, when I MTOed for my Horsehide SD, I ordered exact same size ... what made it even worse was that I opted for a "swing" last, w/c made them even more loose

Edited May 30, 2017 by BrownMetallic

[jigsaw]

My 6 Year Alden Cxl Pittboots 

[mrsmiff]

I just posted a long-winded write up of our visit to the Wesco factory during the production of our next round of Van Cleef engineer boots over in the S&S thread.

Fresh out of the box:

 

10 months of wear by Neil, including 2 trips to Japan:

 

Edited May 31, 2017 by mrsmiff

[mlwdp]

Anyone know where I can get these black nylon laces by Whites?  If the Whites can't be found, any other suggestions? I just got the shipping email from Bakers that my SJ are coming in next week and I would like black nylon laces in them similar to this

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/zodiac/sjnylonbootlacebk/

needs to fit a 6' boot.

 

[BrownMetallic]

Can't get over how Viberg, when they have to, put out the sexiest curve [on heels] ever, IM 

Had my share of "standard" heels from White's, w/c for me, is a bit of an extreme taper ... while the woodsman, is just too stilt-y. 

[mlwdp]

Is there a reason why Wesco collabs with companies overseas but Whites does not or barely does anything outside of a custom order through a JP website?  I get the notion that Wesco is more open to working with companies here and there whether it's a silver buckle on their Boss boot from Lynch Silversmith or a alternate color scheme by Neighborhood.