Shoes that look better with age...

[alvin_cheong]

55 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The jeans are Left Field's Xinjiang cotton

Oh ..like the one they used for Red Cloud?

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Probably but I don't know it.

[mikecch]

10 hours ago, Niro said:

What jeans are those Mikkech?

Thanks for the feedback re: Wolverine guys.

 

b_F is right, these are Left Field's new Xinjiang cotton 14.5 oz twisted yarn jeans.

Different from Red Cloud and Sauce Zhan fabrics I've tried...there's probably at least a couple of mills in China making Xinjiang cotton denim at the moment.

I know the above two Chinese brands get a lot of proprietary stuff they co-develop with the mills.

[mlwdp]

Well, they've been sitting in my closet for about 8 years now, with no home, never worn.  Give these size 8ee Thorogood rough outs a home.

https://supertalk.superfuture.com/topic/160533-fs-studio-dartisan-size-xlnew-apc-ns-size-35other-stuff/

 

[mandel9000]

On 21.2.2017 at 1:51 AM, aho said:

Also, did anyone catch those Wesco engineers from Standard and Strange? Holy hell how did I miss out on those...

I did! But S&S are holding them in until I go to the US in a few weeks, so I won't be able to share any impressions or pictures until after that. Anticipation is real. 

Edit: But maybe you're referring to the Van Cleef engineers? I bought the 7400s. 

Edited February 23, 2017 by mandel9000
Typo

[mlwdp]

How is the sizing on the Lone Wolf Mechanic boots? Is it true to size?  I wear a size 8 (should've gotten a 7.5) in Red Wings and mostly wear size 7 in US boots.

[garden gnomes in space]

god damn, Ive been trying to reply to this thread for days but there was some fucking quote stuck (of course I was quoting Maynard) in the reply box and I couldnt do anything.  Now I figure out the clear editor box and it works.  for fucks sake...

I just wanted to bitch about the Wolverine 1000 mile.  I hate it.  Nero's look better because of the toe design but I always find that its shaped funny, creases funny and generally looks weird.  The way they crease makes each pair look too small for the wearer.  

[Planetarium]

Anybody ever try Shoes Like Pottery? Got a sizing comparison to New Balance or Chucks (which are too narrow for my feet)?

[bradl]

Went to Dayton today to pick up my boots, and was greeted with some of the worst and most ill informed customer service I've had in a long time. I spent a good 10 minutes explaining to the two ladies who were in there that I dropped my boots off, that weren't dayton, to get resoled. They tried convincing me my boots weren't even at the shop and they wouldn't have taken them in the first place. They apparently stopped accepting resoles for non dayton boots over a year ago, even though I have had mine down there three times. After practically arguing with them, one being the owner, they miraculously found them. When they brought them out they looked like this, after 3 months ( - 3 weeks off for xmas). I was pretty shocked, especially when they told me that it would cost me $115 to walk out of the store with them, looking like this. They told me that they also changed the pricing and adding a new mid sole would be $50, even though that wasn't on my bill, and a policy they put in place after I dropped the boots off. The two women were having an incredibly hard time understanding why I was upset, and were getting frustrated with me. I almost blew a gasket, and the owner just got fed up, from her own stupidity I'm assuming, so she let me take them home. So after 3 months I'm left with less boot than I had before.

Steer clear of Dayton, it's not a family run business anymore and the people running it are morons, minus the the one dude who may be a co owner.

I also was talking with Whites, and they told me if the welt was messed around with too much, they might require a complete rebuild. Anyone able to tell me from these pictures if they did or not?

[Planetarium]

the service boot fiasco killed that company but their corpse remains animated and taking orders

sorry man, that's a horrid experience.

[alvin_cheong]

5 hours ago, mlwdp said:

How is the sizing on the Lone Wolf Mechanic boots? Is it true to size?  I wear a size 8 (should've gotten a 7.5) in Red Wings and mostly wear size 7 in US boots.

Lone wolf sizing runs big...I have a pair of Lone wolf carpenter in size 9, it runs big, should have gotten a 8.5 instead.

For your infor, I ;m wearing a pair of redwing chukka in 9.5.

Hope it helps.

[Iron Horse]

3 hours ago, bradl said:

Never heard of Dayton, glad I haven't!

I might have my biases, but Dr. Sole has always been super solid; his soles are durable as hell, and he hand stitches Goodyear welt, storm welts, stitchdown, double row, does rewelting, size adjustments, dye jobs, exchanges buckles, replaces speed hooks, etc. No internal sloppiness or shortcuts whatsoever, and for a reasonable price.

Edited February 24, 2017 by Iron Horse

[edmond]

Problem with dr sole he doesnt reply in emails 

[Iron Horse]

2 hours ago, edmond said:

Problem with dr sole he doesnt reply in emails 

Hmm, try sending him a message over Instagram; he doesn't get onto his computer much from what I understand but he checks IG here and there.

[tod]

RDTs at 10 months.

 

[mlwdp]

I think I've decided to do my first pair of Whites, either awarding myself once I get this new job or with tax return. Going through Baker's for this.

Anyway, i can't tell if this heel is a standard heel, a plus 1/4 heel, or a minus 1/4 heel?

 

Also, is the leather smokejumper on here considered to be Chromexcel? I can't really tell by the picture, nor does it say in the description:

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/jalana/item/whites-smkjmpr-blkdm/

thanks

 

Edited February 25, 2017 by mlwdp

[mpukas]

@mlwdp - that's a lace-to-toe Smoke Jumper. Heel looks standard height. Standard SJ leather is not Chormexcel - that leather is no where near durable enough for what the boots are intended for. I think standard leather is Domain, which is very thick and stiff, tough to break in. That outsole is a very thick lugged Vibram sole that glued, stitched and screwed. White's and the other PNW boot makers don't use a steel shank, as it would get hot and burn your feet when walking on hot coals, so they use an extremely thick and heavy built-up oak leather shank and arch support. 

 

IMO, after owning a pair for 14+ years, and having them rebuilt, unless you're logging or fighting forest fires, these boots are way, way overkill for everyday use and wear. I rarely wear mine because they're simply too heavy and stiff, and they're well broken in. For everyday and light duty use, talk to Kyle at Baker's about scaling them back a little, with a more manageable outsole, possibly a more supple leather (although the Domain is great), lower heel and arch to use less leather and make them a little lighter. 

[mpukas]

Here's a pair of White's I somehow stumbled across on Imgur. I don't know/can't tell who this fella is, but big thanks to him for posting pics of his fine boots. 

 

To me, this is probably THE BEST looking pair of White's I have ever seen. Everything from the leather to the overall construction and detailing looks nearly perfect, both in craftsmanship and aesthetics. When I had mine rebuilt a couple of years ago, I was hoping for something like this. What I got was nothing close. After oogling this Imgur post for months now, I'm considering having them rebuilt again, using this pair as an example. 

White's Bounty Hunter - Brown Dress 

 

Edited February 25, 2017 by mpukas

[edmond]

those are awesome i need one too.

[aho]

^Great look indeed! Having owned a few pairs over 6" I've decided that 6" is as tall as I can go comfortably. I never wear my 8", 10" or 12"s which are relegated to collecting dust in the closet while my 6" Farmer Ranchers are worn pretty much every day. I've been considering doing a custom build for one or two more boots at 6", but simply haven't needed them since my Farmer Ranchers are still solid. For daily wear, I agree that full spec Smoke Jumpers are overkill; Stick with either Bounty Hunters, Farmer Ranchers, or Semi Dress!

[mikecch]

^ Agreed, I might also add the newer classic dress and classic work configuration are good options too. 

Even a double midsole version of these lighter boots are rather hefty. 

[mlwdp]

On 2/25/2017 at 3:17 PM, mpukas said:

@mlwdp - that's a lace-to-toe Smoke Jumper. Heel looks standard height. Standard SJ leather is not Chormexcel - that leather is no where near durable enough for what the boots are intended for. I think standard leather is Domain, which is very thick and stiff, tough to break in. That outsole is a very thick lugged Vibram sole that glued, stitched and screwed. White's and the other PNW boot makers don't use a steel shank, as it would get hot and burn your feet when walking on hot coals, so they use an extremely thick and heavy built-up oak leather shank and arch support. 

 

IMO, after owning a pair for 14+ years, and having them rebuilt, unless you're logging or fighting forest fires, these boots are way, way overkill for everyday use and wear. I rarely wear mine because they're simply too heavy and stiff, and they're well broken in. For everyday and light duty use, talk to Kyle at Baker's about scaling them back a little, with a more manageable outsole, possibly a more supple leather (although the Domain is great), lower heel and arch to use less leather and make them a little lighter. 

I kept wondering why I see more For sale listings of SJs versus worn pics, especially here.  I think I remarked awhile that I don't see too many SJs in this thread, particularly in that build.  Now I know why. Read one review that compared wearing them to having a roll of quarters under your feet.  Ouch! Don't think I've would've enjoyed that type of pain, including how you described it. They do look pretty cool though, especially on Rakuten.  

[mpukas]

For reference (for guys that haven't seen these before), here are my SJ's I had rebuilt in early 05/2014. Originally purchased in early 2003. I wore them for many years as "causal" boots, before they got to be too unbearable for every day wear. The original build was full-on black Smoke Jumper spec. The rebuild was 1/4" lowered curved heel, half sole, Quabag heel cap, brown Domain leather, toe cap w/ broguing. 

 

When I first got them back, one of the boot's heels was not compressed evenly, and it was angled very noticeably from outside to inside. Sent them back and they re-did the one boot's heel. Who ever ground the sole edge did a terrible job, and nearly ground off the entire second row of stitching. The top edge of the leather sole was also very rough and uneven. Since Domain leather is very thick and tough, the stitch-down construction produces a very bulbous edge. I wore them walking the dog in the snow a lot, and that abraded off the edge finish. I then hit the with Obenauf's leather oil, which darkened the brown leather significantly. 

 

If I ever get these rebuilt again, I'd have them made 1/2 size longer (currently an 8), at least one size wider wider (currently EE - I'd prefer 3E or 4E), and made with a square lowered heel, close trim (if White's will do it; I've heard they won't do square heel with close trim, but if you order through Baker's they will do it for you afterwards), low or even flat arch, no toe cap, change to all eyelets with no hooks - antique brass no bright brass, and built as a semi-dress boot with either CXL or White's dress leather. AND I'd make sure the outsole stitching and edge grinding is done extra carefully. White's has the ability to do incredible work, my pair wasn't up to par, IMO. Maybe on their semi-dress and finer leather boots they take more care in the work. 

[edmond]

Who did the rebuild?

[erk]

I'll second the height talk. 8" is nice, but when contrasted with my semi dress boots - the lower height is way better for walking around town and is more comfortable in general. And I've thought more than once about having them cut down to 6" ( you should ask whites about this aho ) 8" farmer ranchers are brown smooth - it's comfortable but seriously heavy duty. 

[mpukas]

17 hours ago, edmond said:

Who did the rebuild?

@edmond White's did the rebuild

[edmond]

Wow thats bad 

[Planetarium]

never lower the whites heel imo because they don't adjust the last to compensate for that

[mlwdp]

On 2/26/2017 at 4:04 PM, mpukas said:

For reference (for guys that haven't seen these before), here are my SJ's I had rebuilt in early 05/2014. Originally purchased in early 2003. I wore them for many years as "causal" boots, before they got to be too unbearable for every day wear. The original build was full-on black Smoke Jumper spec. The rebuild was 1/4" lowered curved heel, half sole, Quabag heel cap, brown Domain leather, toe cap w/ broguing. 

 

When I first got them back, one of the boot's heels was not compressed evenly, and it was angled very noticeably from outside to inside. Sent them back and they re-did the one boot's heel. Who ever ground the sole edge did a terrible job, and nearly ground off the entire second row of stitching. The top edge of the leather sole was also very rough and uneven. Since Domain leather is very thick and tough, the stitch-down construction produces a very bulbous edge. I wore them walking the dog in the snow a lot, and that abraded off the edge finish. I then hit the with Obenauf's leather oil, which darkened the brown leather significantly. 

 

If I ever get these rebuilt again, I'd have them made 1/2 size longer (currently an 8), at least one size wider wider (currently EE - I'd prefer 3E or 4E), and made with a square lowered heel, close trim (if White's will do it; I've heard they won't do square heel with close trim, but if you order through Baker's they will do it for you afterwards), low or even flat arch, no toe cap, change to all eyelets with no hooks - antique brass no bright brass, and built as a semi-dress boot with either CXL or White's dress leather. AND I'd make sure the outsole stitching and edge grinding is done extra carefully. White's has the ability to do incredible work, my pair wasn't up to par, IMO. Maybe on their semi-dress and finer leather boots they take more care in the work. 

Just for shits and giggles I did talked to a staff member at Bakers today about "test driving" a pair of regular smoke jumpers, for science, while getting either the semi dress or bounty hunters built.  

[mikecch]

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