Shoes that look better with age...

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[rungo]

Its two different parts of the shoe being covered. True moccasin construction refers to the construction in the vamp and forefoot area, which allow the shoe to flex around your foot, does shit for water resistance, but quite a lot for comfort (check out Russell Mocs website for a far clearer explanation, with pictures and the like).

As far as the sole is concerned, I have a pair of the dress chukkas on the cristy sole, and they are a 360 degree flat goodyear welt.

As a testament to Yuketens, they are extremely comfortable and easy wearing, I have to say, far more comfortable than my english footwear actually...

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[CrashTestBrummie]

If anyone is in need of a new pair of G&G or Edward Green, Edwards of Manchester have a 20% discount code that's valid throughout their site - jan2013 is the code and it seems that you can even order non-stock items using it.

Including MTO.

And VAT is deducted for non-EU residents.

With profound apologies to coleslawyum and others who might be tempted...

[bod]

ooh I was going there tomorrow to try on a pair of C&J pembroke

[CrashTestBrummie]

I'm selling a pair of Pembrokes on eBay in a 10.5 at the moment...

[bod]

I'm a dainty size8

[CrashTestBrummie]

Edwards it is, then! You'll save a decent few quid if they accept that code in the shop itself...

[Highvoltage]

I'm looking forward to adding a pair of the White's competition BHs to my small collection of American boots.

The Alden 403s and RW Iron Rangers are 2 years old, I've worn the RW's to work a lot, the Alden's mostly after work and weekends. I definitely need to clean and condition the RW's.

The black RW GTs are about 4 months old, and I just finished putting a decent shine on them. I usually condition them about once a month, but they had started to look a bit dull and scuffed.

[rungo]

Yeh but this is my point - a moccasin is stitched at the top with the insole inside, littleway stitched through to the outsole - there's no way to attach the insole to a welt as it's contained within the upper.

edit - sorry I overlooked the last bit - I've given up English shoes, they just don't work for me

If you've got the Maine Guide,. any heel slip? The shaft looks to be directly vertical!

I have the chukkas currently, and there is heel slip out the ass, but that is subsiding as the sole becomes more flexible with wear (a lot of wear), however, I have tried on the Maine Guide, and while there is some heel slip, its not as pronounced as you would think. The pictures are deceiving, there is some shape to the shaft, and I feel that with the proper size and a thorough breaking in, heel slip should be minimized.

To illustrate what I mean about the heel slip, when I wear my yuks for a while, and a little bit of sweat builds into the sock to facilitate my sock and foot sticking slightly to the rear of the heel, rather than transition to an unpleasant rubbing, I get a strong reduction in heel slip, which I find gets better with continued wearings.

To address the point of 'true moccasin' construction, really, anything shy of a full leather all soft moc could be called false. I believe that they are referring to the vamp construction, and how it is actually comprised of two separate pieces, which are then joined with a proper moccasin toe construction including a non stiffened to box, rather than a moc toe, as see in some work boots. Where the moccasin vamp really does have a profound impact on fitting and comfort (as a side note, initial fit should be snug to quite snug through the foot for best results), an aesthetic moc toe, does considerably less in terms of fitting for example Red WIngs (which I use as work boots, and find to be extremely comfortable as well).

If you do decide to look into Yuketens, the fitting is as follows - widths as normal, I find the moccasins fit 1/2 size smaller than standard US, or the same size as Red Wings or Alden Barrie last. They should be pretty fitted when new, through the forefoot mine have stretched quite considerable to accommodate my very high instep. They take well to breaking in, but its a slow process.

In a related note, I thoroughly do not understand people who claim their boots are 'broken in' in a few days, or a week, or any such nonsense. I get break in periods in the months, comparing a fresh pair to something that's been worn to be fully formed to my foot.

[spidereye]

what's the difference between red dog smooth and oil? thought they are the same.

leather look pink(red dog oil) in build a boot.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Double 0 Soul]

Another option..

I hate driving long distance in work boots Dagnabbit!, so these live in the boot of the car.

http://www.arrowmoc.com/

Family run business Est 1951, Super thick Swiss hides tanned here in the UK, Hand Stitched in Hudson Massachusetts. 100%rubber crepe.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Double 0 Soul]

They are nearly a decade old!, I think this style is only produced in the boot nowadays, Only ever used as driving shoes so they look minty fresh.

Same story with these size up 1/2

Only problem is they smell like rancid overcooked stake, The hair on the inside of the moc is burned off with flame and you know what burning hair smells like.

They are as close to a trad moc as you will find.

[fre-co]

Here are some more pictures of my White's nomads a couple of weeks on.

A slightly misfired fit picture

[PeterParker]

Dammit, I need a pair of natural CXL boots in my life. Why weren't there such abundant options (e.g. Oak Street trench boot, White's custom option, etc.) available when I made my boot purchase?

It's like the natural CXL gods are conspiring against me, what with my poorly conceived Alden contest boot, and White's making natural CXL an option weeks after I placed my order! Hopefully Horween will be producing this wonderful leather for years to come so that the next time I need a boot, I'll make the right choice.

[Highvoltage]

I'm opting for the Natural CXL for my BH order. Can't wait.

Here's a better shot of my 403's almost 2 years in:

[hollowsleather]

Boot companies were a little slow in realizing how awesome natural chromexcel is, but it seems like they're starting to get it. It looks great at every stage of aging. I think it'll be popular for a good long while.

Still hoping for action shots of the captoe trench if anyone has a pair!

[devilish]

I don't want to throw a monkey wrench into the sizing talk on Yuketens but I find them to run large and I was told this by the makers in person at the Style Forum event last year. In fact I bought a pair of the Maine Guide Oxfords there that are a whole size smaller than I normally wear. They are undoubtedly tight but are forming to my foot and becoming very comfortable. I also have a pair of the full boot version in my 'correct' size that I have to wear a half insole in to make them fit properly.

So I guess my advice is be careful and if possible get inside measurements before buying any. Especially if you can't return them.

[kansas]

DoubleO, I didn't see the sole you have as an option on their current line up.

Was that a custom thing, or was it an option a decade ago : )

[CrashTestBrummie]

Something a little different from C&J, the 'Argyll' American brogue made for Fife (presumably, as in 'Hoggs of Fife') a while ago.

I wasn't totally sure on the maker of these until I took them into the local C&J shop and they had a sample model of these out the back, which they'd had sent to them some time ago for the benefit of a customer who was considering a longwing MTO.

Also, an old pair of Edward Green derby brogues, made for Poulsen Skone some time ago:

[Double 0 Soul]

^^They used to be available in boot or shoe with full leather or crepe, Havnt given them a second thought for a while.

[denimjunky]

Great stuff, Fresco!

[garden gnomes in space]

Fre-co, any update on the heel slippage? Has it gotten better? beautiful boots

Edited January 27, 2013 by garden gnomes in space

[ranonranonarat]

took these out and cleaned them up. tried to go for a high shine (i know this might not be to everyone's liking for a work boot) but cxl doesn't seem to take to polishing very well.

[bargerhm]

Just did the same thing to my Iron Rangers the other day. Not quite as shiny but these are usually very flat black. ^

Also just shined these up earlier. Allen Edmond Strands.

[demonator]

took these out and cleaned them up. tried to go for a high shine (i know this might not be to everyone's liking for a work boot) but cxl doesn't seem to take to polishing very well.

send em over ranon ill take care of em

[Highvoltage]

Just finished a major deep cleaning on my Iron Rangers, they were well overdue. Hit them with lots of water and saddle soap, along with a good dose of elbow grease. They had some really heavy build up of polish, wax, conditioner and grime. Right now they are stuffed with tons of newspaper, waiting for them to dry enough so I can give them a good conditioning. I'll let that work in for a few days and shine them up. They were in pretty rough shape, but I'm willing to bet they'll look great once I'm done with them.

[patrick_b]

I'm opting for the Natural CXL for my BH order. Can't wait.

Here's a better shot of my 403's almost 2 years in:

I have never had much desire to own pair of indy's (save a shell version in #8 or cigar perhaps), but this image of a well worn CXL pair has me reconsidering.