Levi's Vintage Clothing

[coleslawyum]

Very interesting coleslaw...Have you gotten your hands on a newer pair of '55's? Having finally felt and tried them on first hand, they are definitely my #1 pair to buy for LVC in the future...The 555's seem to be very different (not a bad thing) from the post-Valencia pairs.

I am by no means an expert on LVC. That said, I find the hardware and denim on the newer '47 higher quality. I can't give this assessment to all 555 LVC, but I can, based on my 2 pairs.

USA LVC is really good when you consider what other choices there are for American repro denim. I've owned at least 5 pairs of RRL (granted, a lot of their denim is from a Japanese mill), but I always end up selling them all. LVC is tops in my opinion.

Also I think I just have a prejudice against sanforized denim.

[aho]

^No doubt...My top 3 in general (not strictly American) would be Warehouse, LVC and Full Count...Just my personal preference and really it's all subjective (Sugarcane and Evisu No.1 denim also way up there), but I think the Cultizm contest has shown us the great qualities that LVC can yield.

xrevengex, we await your pics! Where did you find the pair?

[Paul T]

I've been with Richard in the back room of cinch, pulling out all the deadstock, including lots of 555 and comparing it. There are always massive variations over the years - primarily in the denim. It's mainly, I believe, because cotton is so variable. In partiuclar the fluffiness of one year over another. SOme of the old 555 is fluffy and looks great, some was really stripey, like 70s pairs- but I doubt that makes any difference after the first 6 months. Old timers, or people like Ralph Tharpe see that fluffiness as a fault.

I reckon many of the observations about the earlier jeans being heavier in weight is a simple misconception.It's not borne out by the facts. There might well be variation from year to year, some years the weave looks tighter than others but it's pretty inconceivable that the weight would change.

I've put this year's production of 55 next to my old 555 pair... the main difference was that the new pair had more of a sheen and less fluff. I prefer the older pair, maybe because they're quirkier, but there's no way you can assert that, for instance, the fabric is better.

Oh, and re COne, according to Levi's they started supplying around 1915, alongside Amosekeag, and were exclusive supplier from 1922. There seems to be some debate as to how soon they introduced the redline after that, but for LVC purposes it seems to have been taken as 1927.

[ranonranonarat]

great information paul, very intriguing to know all these and the differences between the 555s and the newer runs. very knowledgeable. thanks for sharing this information with us.

[xrevengex]

Paul, thanks for the info! It's interesting to hear about. I'm with you on the earlier LVC being favored. The denim on the 44s I picked up is indeed more "fluffy". It's quite different from other pairs that I've handled. Looks like it will age very differently than I'm used to (hopefully more of a vintage type fade). They probably won't get a lot of wear until fall since I wear trousers and my momos to work mostly.

Both of my posts about them are pretty useless without pics. I'll take some this evening, as it was far too sunny when I left for work this morning.

[Vinneus]

hey all! so i picked up a pair of 66's on sale.... they fit perfect raw (32x32)

what do you guys think about ocean soaking em right off the bat?

....might just jump in for a bit and wear em to try.

[josh mullen]

Sounds reasonable. It's been my experience that the '66's stretch like crazy.

[xrevengex]

Not the best pics, but pics none-the-less. I'll post a fit pic later...

[matera]

^ I don't understand, Why is there only one arcuate on these 44's?

[devilish]

They are painted on and will wear off over time. This was Levis way of helping conserve raw materials during the war. There are other details on the 44's like this, such as fewer rivets and less thread on some seams.

[xrevengex]

i really dig these details. it's nice to see them. as well as how they vary from season to season (or so i've noticed). these don't seem to have been worn much at all. probably soaked once and washed once or something.

really liking them so far.

[Maynard Friedman]

Today I visited the Three Threads in Shoreditch. I chatted with the North American (not sure if he was Canadian or American) shop manager who told me that the reason for the recent price hike to £215 for LVC in Britain was because manufacture was moved from Eastern Europe to the USA. I thought LVC were always made in USA so is this true?

He was a lovely fella, looked in the storeroom for any 1937s lying around and gave me a free copy of the Lynne Downey 501 book

[setterman]

Today I visited the Three Threads in Shoreditch. I chatted with the North American (not sure if he was Canadian or American) shop manager who told me that the reason for the recent price hike to £215 for LVC in Britain was because manufacture was moved from Eastern Europe to the USA. I thought LVC were always made in USA so is this true?

He was a lovely fella, looked in the storeroom for any 1937s lying around and gave me a free copy of the Lynne Downey 501 book

The raw 501s are made in the US. The rest of the line? There's stuff from Turkey and I believe Italy.

He might have been referring to the denim jackets, which have been made in Turkey. I think it's been mentioned that their production is moving back to US.

[killer b]

the washed LVCs and the 505s are made in turkey, and at least some of the shirts are made in italy.

i think you can safely assume that unless they advertise 'made in the USA' at the stores, they'll be made elsewhere.

[Maynard Friedman]

It was the raw jeans we were discussing.

[killer b]

afaik only the raw 505s were made in turkey - all the raw 501s i've ever seen for sale have been heavily branded as USA made.

i guess some of the manufacturing process could have been carried out elsewhere, but i can't think what - especially as the denim is woven in the US.

[Paul T]

The story's not really true... yes, they put up prices, that was because XX had to pay its own way, rather than be a loss leader for Levi's, as was the case before.

Of course the raw do cost more than the Turkish-made rough rinse versions, which are also made with Cone denim, because of the higher cost of US produciton.

[Maynard Friedman]

Thanks everyone but I understand what you're saying and that equates to what I've always believed. This is the first time I've heard the story about LVC being manufactured in Eastern Europe so I thought I'd recount it here. It may just be the spin that the manager was given. Incidentally, the Three Threads is owned by Edwin. He did also infer that the price hike had significantly reduced the sales of full-price LVC at his shop.

[colgems1966]

Thanks everyone but I understand what you're saying and that equates to what I've always believed. This is the first time I've heard the story about LVC being manufactured in Eastern Europe so I thought I'd recount it here. It may just be the spin that the manager was given. Incidentally, the Three Threads is owned by Edwin. He did also infer that the price hike had significantly reduced the sales of full-price LVC at his shop.

i don't doubt it. i haven't bought any since the price hike and won't. also on some models i have really questioned the quality of the hardware and or denim. a good example is the 1915. they go to all the trouble and provide beautiful denim and then put on a cheap buckle that falls apart when you snip it. call me crazy but USA made, high quality raw selvage denim with good hardware at a price at or below $200 is not unreasonable to expect. esp when you consider the last regular production USA made selvage 501's from the early 80's were about $25 a pair. i realize inflation but come on.

[roy6]

^I think a lot of people may feel that way.

The buckle on my 'Loons bent and nearly broke on its first fastening, which should be unacceptable on a $300 pair of pants, nice as they other-wise are.

Luckily, airfrogUSMC was nice enough to send me a replacement buckle (thanks! I just opened it...).

[grooveholmes]

Thanks everyone but I understand what you're saying and that equates to what I've always believed. This is the first time I've heard the story about LVC being manufactured in Eastern Europe so I thought I'd recount it here. It may just be the spin that the manager was given. Incidentally, the Three Threads is owned by Edwin. He did also infer that the price hike had significantly reduced the sales of full-price LVC at his shop.

That's news to me too. I've never heard of raw LVC (I'm assuming 501) jeans being manufactured in Eastern Europe. Hit him up again and ask for clarification-- if it's true, I'd like to hear more about it.

[devilish]

I think the buckles are definitely a week point on all LVC. Even the 555 506 that I got from roy6 and the 555 201(501) have a weakish buckle. That's one area they could improve and maybe the belt loops, the rolled ones on good Japanese jeans are much nicer. However they may not be correct for Levis (I don't know).

The price point of $200 is unrealistic, I feel. It would be nice but when most good Japanese repro's cost north of $300 and if Levis is trying to make XX show a profit then I don't think the price will ever go back down. $250 seems about right to me but then I wasn't buying back in the cheaper days so my perspective is a little different.

[colgems1966]

you're right about the buckles. i've had two 506's a later one with a slip thru buckle like the old 20's 201's had. it was rubbish and wouldn't secure the strap. my 555 506 and my 555 37 201's both had a cheap unrealistic buckle like the thai fakes use. on my 506 i tracked down a correct Solide buckle like the original 506's used (paid only $20) and on my 37 201's i simply removed the buckle and strap since it was somewhat slim fitting anyway (i bought TTS). as for price the materials and economies of scale are different for LVC and the cottage Japanese brands. to me a $200 pair of jeans is extravagant and the limit. i refuse to pay above that for any brand, after all they're only pants. the only exception i can see is vintage originals bought as investments. anything else i see as an extravagance bordering on the ridiculous. others can do what they want, but at those prices i can begin to find other uses for the money. i am only glad i laid in a huge supply when prices were low or i could get a bargain. i have 24 prs; 18 LVC 4 Lee Japan and 2 originals. unless my waist changes i am set for life and i do not have to buy. BTW 3/4 of what i own were bought at bargain prices, that's how i ended up with so many pair.

[roy6]

Just got the '20s Balloon pants back from the tailor (took a few inches off the cuff).

Once again, thank you PaulT!

[Dr_Heech]

Nice fit Roy6. Very '70's. Very 'Saturday night fever'.

Must spread.

[devilish]

I was thinking more late 30's, early 40's which is where a lot of 70's fashion got it's inspiration. Has a little more character than 70's clothing.

[Dr_Heech]

I was thinking more late 30's, early 40's which is where a lot of 70's fashion got it's inspiration. Has a little more character than 70's clothing.

Well, everyone's entitled to their own opinion, but you missed the point - I was talking about '70's style as opposed to '70's clothing itself.

Have you ever watched Saturday night fever?

.

[killer b]

balloons are fantastic Roy6.

[setterman]

Price.... probably one of the most discussed issues when it comes to LVC, but rarely seen in the threads about Japanese brands. Why is that? I've got an idea, but I'd like to hear some other opinions first.

[killer b]

partly snobbery, and partly as jap denim is need as more of an artisan-made product. seems to me if you're buying japanese, you've even got a chance of knowing the name of the person who sewed your jeans together - not so with LVC.

not sure whether north of 200 is inevitable for US made jeans btw - you can get american-made wrangler bluebell for much cheaper. considering giving them a try as it happens - they have some at an excellent price in the oki-ni sale...