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Though it's my understanding that it's good to go true-to-size with the 2010 LVC 55, would I be okay getting a 34 (I'd be sizing up 2)? I'd like a looser fit though I'm worried that they'll end up being too huge in the waist.

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All my jeans twist pretty hard in the left leg (selvedge winds up in the middle of the pant leg). The right leg twists to various degress, but the LVC I have seems to twist more in the right leg than my MIJ denim does. I was a little leery of leg twist at first (thought it would look odd), but I learned to like it real quick, and the more my jeans twist the happier I am. IMO it give's them more of that vintage look and feel.

setterman, I've noticed the more extreme left leg twist in most of my selvedge jeans too.

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hey guys

i dunno much about LVC or jean jackets

but i was in the market and saw different Types

can anyone please explain the major differences between Type I, II, and III?

is it fit? wash? quality? or what. i'm lost.

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^ thanks that's mad helpful. +rep for speed & usefullness

it looks like i need a type 1. but i''d want 2 pockets and idon't like that cinch.

maybe i can work around it for a type 2.

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Well, just about every pair of jeans discussed at superdenim is going to wind up with leg twist when shrunk. Learn to embrace it, because I don't think there's anything you can do to stop it other than not washing/shrinking your jeans. ;)

Don't know the exact science of it other than when the jeans shrink, they're going to twist in the direction of the twill (in the case of Levis that's to the right). All my jeans twist pretty hard in the left leg (selvedge winds up in the middle of the pant leg). The right leg twists to various degress, but the LVC I have seems to twist more in the right leg than my MIJ denim does. I was a little leery of leg twist at first (thought it would look odd), but I learned to like it real quick, and the more my jeans twist the happier I am. IMO it give's them more of that vintage look and feel.

my new 55s have the most extreme leg twist i have ever seen in person. honestly, the outseam is damned near the middle of the leg at the hem. nothing i have ever had in the past has been so pronounced -- i like it though

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New 506/Type I arrived today. Very please with it. To the denim jacket wearers, are you giving these things an initial soak/wash or wearing them raw to start out? This thing is plenty big in it's raw state, so I'm not too concerned about shrinkage, but any idea how much room I'll lose with a cold wash? Thanks!

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New 506/Type I arrived today. Very please with it. To the denim jacket wearers, are you giving these things an initial soak/wash or wearing them raw to start out? This thing is plenty big in it's raw state, so I'm not too concerned about shrinkage, but any idea how much room I'll lose with a cold wash? Thanks!

I had an early 555 version which was a tad undersize and shrank like hell after a warm tub soak. I think some of the newer season's models are made in turkey. Usually it's the length that shrinks more over.

Can you give us a pic of the inside white wash/info tag, and maybe some measurements to help us help you?

.

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I have a US-based source if you can't find them in the UK.

They also have size 33s over at cultizm.

Those 2010 season 1944's are a bit oversized (one inch at least) so I'm gonna order a pair of 33/34's. Just hope that Cinch has that 'in between' size, as so often they dont make 'em.

Cant wait...

.

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I have a US-based source if you can't find them in the UK.

They also have size 33s over at cultizm.

Thanks for the heads-up,

but phoned and secured a pair of 2010 44's in a sz 33/34 from Cinch.

I usually buy from Aero as they're the cheapest UK supplier, and cheaper than Cinch and Cultizm by £30-35, but they have such a backlog of 2008/9 models of the 44, that I doubt they'll be ordering any of the new batch.

I really wanted to secure a pair of those 2010 models before the forthcoming price hike.

Will post detailed pics when they arrive.

.

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I've often wondered about the reason for the pleatson the early jackets. It seemed like alot of wasted material and manufacturing steps for a purely aesthetic reason on a work coat. I thought maybe it was added protection when loading hay bales or something, but from these ads, I guess it was so you could let them out when you get fat?

The selvege lines on my '07 201s started out most of the way around the front. They're still completely raw. I thought it might have been the way I cuffed 'em, but I've tried redoing them a few times.

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Dr. Heech, 506XX is tagged XL, but measures more like an XXL (which is what my fat ass needs!). Chest is 27", length down the front of the jacket is 23 1/2", sleeve (underarm) is 25". I use most of the cinch to take the jacket bottom in as much as possible. I've removed the inside white tag, but took photos of it. If I'm reading right, the jacket is from 2007. If the jacket is going to shrink 2" or more anywhere, I'll wear it raw.

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The pleats were put in for layering purposes. Denim workwear was typically put over a number of clothing layers, the pleats allowed for the jacket to expand. At least that's my understanding.

I've often wondered about the reason for the pleatson the early jackets. It seemed like alot of wasted material and manufacturing steps for a purely aesthetic reason on a work coat. I thought maybe it was added protection when loading hay bales or something, but from these ads, I guess it was so you could let them out when you get fat?

The selvege lines on my '07 201s started out most of the way around the front. They're still completely raw. I thought it might have been the way I cuffed 'em, but I've tried redoing them a few times.

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I've often wondered about the reason for the pleatson the early jackets. It seemed like alot of wasted material and manufacturing steps for a purely aesthetic reason on a work coat. I thought maybe it was added protection when loading hay bales or something, but from these ads, I guess it was so you could let them out when you get fat?

yes,... joseph you are right! the pleats where meant to be like a "size-airbag",.... not only if the wearer got fat, also if those jackets had been worn during winter and some nice and warm additional clothing had to fit underneath those coats,...

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I stopped into Unionmade SF today, they got some new LVC in.

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2010 1915s and 1947s. Shorty, no circle R on the '47s.

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A striped Sunset popover. Nice.

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Shorthorn check shirts. IMHO, the nicest piece of non-denim/duck from this season. The wooden buttons are great, really nice ('40s?) cut.

4420684273_29d087d3f1_o.jpg

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Dr. Heech, 506XX is tagged XL, but measures more like an XXL (which is what my fat ass needs!). Chest is 27", length down the front of the jacket is 23 1/2", sleeve (underarm) is 25". I use most of the cinch to take the jacket bottom in as much as possible. I've removed the inside white tag, but took photos of it. If I'm reading right, the jacket is from 2007. If the jacket is going to shrink 2" or more anywhere, I'll wear it raw.

I would say soaking the jacket in the tub @30 degrees centigrade for 20 minutes should be fine, but no longer, as you dont want to overdo it. How much shrinkage can you afford to lose? Wearing it raw for is no probs but you'll wanna give in to the thought of a soak at some point.

.

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kind of a problem, more of an annoyance. the width of the legs on my 47's differ about half an inch. it doesn't bother me on the thigh because i know that eventually it will stretch out. the extra half inch width one leg does bother me because it kind of flares out like a boot cut. oddly enough the hem is the same width.

should i taper the leg? (i kind of wanted to slightly taper from knee to hem anyways) or will it even out after the first wash/second soak?

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