Urban Techwear

[Nebulae]

^ Y-3 FW14 (?)

[Dolphinski]

Nice, just went through the FW14 show pics. Intrigued by this blazer...

[Nebulae]

If you guys will forgive a small plug, I'm selling a Petar Petrov knit that would go perfectly with a tech wardrobe

 

Back to the thread, though, I need to find a replacement for it.  

I've been looking at some of the following:

Matthew Miller Schoeller tech sweater

SILENT DD Tuga sweater

The first seems really cool in concept but might be a bit too boxy for me.  At the same time, though, I've tried the SILENT piece on and since the armholes are cut really low layering on top might be a problem (although the cropped cut, arm silhouette, and wide neck are super cool)

 

Any other recommendations?

[Nullsleep]

just in case you've missed the obvious - arc'teryx veilance graph sweater is great.

[SuE]

What trousers would people recommend as comparable to ACR P9s or P11s? Looking for suggestions to branch out beyond ACR, want something warmer and less fadey than epic cotton. 

 

Suggestion: Hilltrek has the Cabrach Ventile Trousers (Double Ventile) and the Conival Cotton Analogy Trousers (Ventile + Nikwax Analogy). Both should be warmer than the acronym pants

[xdfjdkz]

If you guys will forgive a small plug, I'm selling a Petar Petrov knit that would go perfectly with a tech wardrobe

 

Back to the thread, though, I need to find a replacement for it.  

I've been looking at some of the following:

Matthew Miller Schoeller tech sweater

~

SILENT DD Tuga sweater

The first seems really cool in concept but might be a bit too boxy for me.  At the same time, though, I've tried the SILENT piece on and since the armholes are cut really low layering on top might be a problem (although the cropped cut, arm silhouette, and wide neck are super cool)

 

Any other recommendations?

I'll grab a fitpic of my MM Schoeller pull over tomorrow. It's not so much boxy as it is drapey, it fits nicely in the shoulders and sleeves and just has some drapeyness to the back end of it. I usually wear it over a tee or my thin SNS knit and it layers wonderfully and fills out with a thin knit. Be forewarned, the neck hole is ridiculously small. 

[scamster]

not a recommendation for Nubulae but as we're chatting knits this just this dropped over at antonioli.

 

 

new sisp knit with three dimensional stitch/knit detail.

[scamster]

probably a mistake so may go soon but quite a few sisp s/s14 items have appeared on the stone island site under a/w.

[tjaden]

hi gang,

 

anyone tried making their own personal 'urban techwear' (not necessarily just to 'sell'). i'm hoping to join/create a forum where people share ideas of projects, what works, what doesn't, good suppliers. i've been inspired lately to tailor some existing clothes with techy fabrics, make new hi-tech clothes. 

 

i'm located in melbourne, australia, and hoping to find the likeminded locally or internationally. 

 

not quite sure where else to post this (and apologies if it already has), but the sufu urban techwear thread looked like a good start!

 

cheers,

n.t

[crucialkc]

I have toyed with the idea but nothing ever came to fruition. I pretty much stopped thinking about it because I couldn't find any nanosphere treated schoeller dryskin to buy for what I wanted to make.

[SuE]

I've also been considering that idea for some time. Schoeller does factory sales a couple times each year. The next one is scheduled for January 29/30th. Any SuFu Swiss proxy interested?

[Inkinsurgent]

I would definitely be in for tech collab/thinktank/limited production ops.

[firstdoorontheleft]

I'd definitely be down for that. I have a background in tailoring/pattern making, and as some of you know I design for the technical apparel industry. I've had the idea for sometime to do some composite articulated merino base layer. 

[Nullsleep]

composite articulated merino base layer. 

 

Take my money

[manuel venatof]

Pardon my ignorance, what does "articulated" mean when referring to merino base layer?

[deadsunrise]

^ I was asking myself the same, icebreaker's base layer (200 everyday Long sleeve) already have a gusset/side panel that reaches the elbow and raglan sleeves. They are extremely comfortable (wearing one right now in bed)

Edited January 24, 2014 by deadsunrise

[firstdoorontheleft]

Articulation - when referring to a garment, means altering the base patterns so that the garment seams map the body, improve range of movement and increase function of wearability.

I'm very familiar with ice breaker and their product. They do make their base layer with some articulation however they are limited, as adding more seams would increase the cost of manufacturing the garment and would probably impact their margins.

Look at Acronyms's DS-HD2, this hoodie has some of the most impressive articulation and patterning that I've ever seen. There are darts in all of the right places to help shape the fabric to the body, gussets to help prevent the bottom of the hoodie from lifting up while reaching, and the fabrics technical stretchability.

The concept of composite articulated baselayer is mapping the body with the merino, but with multiple types of merino knit fabric. Say, a merino mesh for the underarm gussets and a set in panel between your shoulder blades for added ventilation.

Look at what Aitor Throup did for Umbro as well. That whole capsule collection featured very well thought out composite articulation.

Edited January 25, 2014 by firstdoorontheleft

[manuel venatof]

Articulation - when referring to a garment, means altering the base patterns so that the garment seams map the body, improve range of movement and increase function of wearability.

I'm very familiar with ice breaker and their product. They do make their base layer with some articulation however they are limited, as adding more seams would increase the cost of manufacturing the garment and would probably impact their margins.

Look at Acronyms's DS-HD2, this hoodie has some of the most impressive articulation and patterning that I've ever seen. There are darts in all of the right places to help shape the fabric to the body, gussets to help prevent the bottom of the hoodie from lifting up while reaching, and the fabrics technical stretchability.

The concept of composite articulated baselayer is mapping the body with the merino, but with multiple types of merino knit fabric. Say, a merino mesh for the underarm gussets and a set in panel between your shoulder blades for added ventilation.

Look at what Aitor Throup did for Umbro as well. That whole capsule collection featured very well thought out composite articulation.

Thanks for the explanation.

In my opinion the articulation at the elbow can be done in multiple ways where function & form meet in an aesthetic pleasant way - even a simple horizontal panel/band would work well if the color combination is appropiate.

On the other hand, the shoulder/armpit area poses a bigger challenge in terms of resolving a properly working (comfortable, freedom of movement,etc) articulation in a minimalist & elegant manner - it seems to me that only a few chosen pieces & designers have succeded at this dilemma - or better, at this "juncture".

Edited January 25, 2014 by manuel venatof

[Inkinsurgent]

Apart from complexity/cost, a big consideration when designing base layers is minimizing seams to avoid friction/hotspots under other layers or packs. When your material, like merino, is soft and stretchy, articulation quickly reaches a point of diminishing returns. 

 

I'm also guessing that relatively fragile materials like merino benefit from not having their structural integrity compromised by excessive stitching, folding and handling. 

[deadsunrise]

Need some suggestions.  I was bored and needed to clean my wardrobe so I took some pictures of the things I have that could be considered "techwear", it's mostly icebreaker, outlier and some stone island. Some things missing:  outlier ultralights and climbers + og freeshell that I haven't received yet.

 

Some suggestions on what to get next?  I'm pretty content with what I have but would like to get a black pullover, one hoodie to replace the gray one, and 3-4 outlier shirts. I cannot afford stuff really expensive  like for example acronym.

 

Full album with some other stuff and the wardrobe itself here: http://imgur.com/a/lhVca

 

 

 

outerwear:  3 waterproof merino by icebreaker  + puma rain jacket (sucks 0 breathability), missing navy OG Freeshell

 

 

 

pants: 2x dungarees, nyco, OG, 2x three way shorts, 2x linen shorts  (missing climbers charcoal + ultralights gray)

 

 

 

mid layer:  icebreaker, SI, SISP

 

 

 

tshirts:  4 outlier, 5 icebreaker that I should replace, planning on getting some by finisterre.

 

 

 

footwear (only the waterproof): nike arktos, supermarines, converse x schoeller, reebook x SNS gore-tex

 

 

baselayer / underwear:  icebreaker anatomica + exofficio briefs, uniqlo heattech and 2 icebreaker 100 LS and one 150 bodyfit

 

 

 

[crucialkc]

if we got a project going together that'd be pretty sick! It'd have to be something relatively basic due to the large number of collaborators (look at how long an ebbets cap group buy takes and all the other bs that follows).

another note about my search for nano dryskin: I have looked periodically online and mainly at stores that were stateside. One company, quest, did send me a swatch of their black dryskin and, while uncoated/no nanosphere, it also did not have the same look or feel as any of my outlier garments. The back of the fabric looked exactly like the front. Just FYI. Maybe it's schoeller dynamic that they have listed as dryskin?

Regardless, would love to see something come to fruition.

Maybe homie from endless ammo, under armour, or arcteryx can help us source fabric?

[crucialkc]

I have no idea why but your post just reminded me that I have an idiom greyscale shell in my closet that I never wear

Re: undergarments

All I wear are exofficio, under armour, and icebreaker leggings when it's cold. Under armour is definitely my fav of the three. Better fit and keeps me cooler than exofficio IMO

Edited January 25, 2014 by crucialkc

[deadsunrise]

^ any model of UA in particular? I will need cooler briefs than exofficio for the summer. Icebreaker are much better but have no durability and are too expensive.

[brooks_]

Speaking of Under Armor, anyone tried these?
 

http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens-charged-cotton-chino-tapered-leg/pid1240942

 

THE FUNDAMENTALS

• REGULAR: A slimmer athletic cut that delivers better mobility by eliminating the bulk of extra fabric.
• Sits at waist with room through the hip & thigh—without getting too baggy
• Tapers in at knee, going down to a 15†leg opening
• Incredibly soft, durable herringbone fabric wicks sweat, resists wrinkles & lets you move
• 4-Way Stretch fabrication allows greater mobility & maintains shape
• Moisture Transport System wicks sweat away from the body
• Anti-Odor technology prevents the growth of odor causing microbes
• Iconic performance waistband uses elastic stretch for insane comfort
• Flat-front, 5-pocket design
• Hidden side zip pocket
• Deep, ultra-soft knit pocketbags
• 6.6 oz. Cotton/Polyester/Elastane

Doesn't look too bad for $80.

[SuE]

Some suggestions on what to get next? I'm pretty content with what I have but would like to get a black pullover, one hoodie to replace the gray one, and 3-4 outlier shirts. I cannot afford stuff really expensive like for example acronym.

I will need cooler briefs than exofficio for the summer. Icebreaker are much better but have no durability and are too expensive.

What are the temperature highs/humidity you have to deal with?

p.s. get a blazer/field jacket/parka/bomber etc instead of another hoodie.

Edited January 25, 2014 by SuE

[Inkinsurgent]

another note about my search for nano dryskin: I have looked periodically online and mainly at stores that were stateside. One company, quest, did send me a swatch of their black dryskin and, while uncoated/no nanosphere, it also did not have the same look or feel as any of my outlier garments. The back of the fabric looked exactly like the front. Just FYI. Maybe it's schoeller dynamic that they have listed as dryskin?

 

If i'm not mistaken, schoeller's various brand names are technology containers. they can refer to a multitude of fabric/surface treatment/laminate combinations. 

[deadsunrise]

pretty mild weather. I'm in the north of spain so 0-35 celsius (32-100F) with lots of rain.   I have to trash the icebreaker hoodie so I was looking for a replacement, I like this one: http://www.finisterreuk.com/shop/mens/p/new-just-in/boreas-full-zip-midnight.html

 

waiting for the OG freeshell as a light jacket, would like to get a blazer but not sure which one and which colour considering the pants I have.

[firstdoorontheleft]

Speaking of Under Armor, anyone tried these?

http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens-charged-cotton-chino-tapered-leg/pid1240942

THE FUNDAMENTALS

• REGULAR:[/size] A slimmer athletic cut that delivers better mobility by eliminating the bulk of extra fabric.[/size]
• Sits at waist with room through the hip & thigh—without getting too baggy[/size]
• Tapers in at knee, going down to a 15†leg opening[/size]
• Incredibly soft, durable herringbone fabric wicks sweat, resists wrinkles & lets you move[/size]
• 4-Way Stretch[/size] fabrication allows greater mobility & maintains shape[/size]
• Moisture Transport System[/size] wicks sweat away from the body[/size]
• Anti-Odor[/size] technology prevents the growth of odor causing microbes[/size]
• Iconic performance waistband uses elastic stretch for insane comfort[/size]
• Flat-front, 5-pocket design[/size]
• Hidden side zip pocket[/size]
• Deep, ultra-soft knit pocketbags[/size]
• 6.6 oz. Cotton/Polyester/Elastane[/size]

Doesn't look too bad for $80.

I actually wear tested those for work in the khaki and black color ways. . They're pretty nice. Great stretchabity. Good slim fit. I wear them when I'm indoor climbing.

Great abrasion resistant fabric. The fabric IMO is a bit soft for my taste (it's got an odd Bedford cord or broken twill pattern). I prefer my WIP sid pants. But for the price point I like them.

They're not very fast drying though. If you go a few pages back there were some UA products I recommended to all of the users on this thread, those pants included.

Edited January 25, 2014 by firstdoorontheleft

[crucialkc]

I like under armour's long boxer briefs. The original is preferred over the mesh variation IMO.

Now that wip was mentioned, anyone have experience with the Johnson cut or have any recommendations? My legs are big in relation to my waist so a keirin type fit is what I'm after.

Also is it tts or vanity sized? Size chart is confusing.

[crucialkc]

If i'm not mistaken, schoeller's various brand names are technology containers. they can refer to a multitude of fabric/surface treatment/laminate combinations.

Hmm among other differences, I thought one of the main differences between dynamic and dryskin is that dryskin has two faces: a more abrasion resistant outer and a softer, lined inner.

Btw, did not mean to neg one of your posts. Fucking iphone