Urban Techwear

[Inkinsurgent]

A heads up for those into triple aught design: they've restocked their merino henleys. Looks like a nice casual piece, have one on the way myself.

[artmajor]

Anyone know a good place for poplin pants? I like the new dojo pants by isaora but theyre a little out of my budget, i need something more commonly priced. Im about to just make my own over the summer, i love me some poplin.

Also, best tech wear for the warmer summer months? Im looking for good shorts and tees, gonna hit up uniqlo soon...

[Dressed Down]

Hey, I always like to have a baseline for discussion, and somewhere to point newcomers toward.  Since that didn't exist for Techwear, I created it.  Part 1 of 6, the Basics, just launched today.  http://dressed-down.com/blog/2013/5/13/intro-to-techwear-part-1-the-bas

 

Over the course of all 6 I fully expect to have my ass handed to me (especially about the style genres) but I think it's a good start.

[RAISED BY WOLVES]

I want to hate it, but for a basic lay-of-the-land it's pretty on point. Interested to see how you fill in your "outline".

[Dressed Down]

Glad to hear it.  Frankly, I think most people on SuFu will be interested in the later parts (the Science and Term Glossary; the Style Inspiration) but I definitely want to hear from you guys on all of it.  SuFu is definitely only community discussing it on a broad basis.  Even the older forums dedicated to C.P. Co and Stone Island are pretty much dead.

[Inkinsurgent]

Looking good, DD.

[danii]

good write up! at least from my point of view. let's see the other parts:)

Edited May 14, 2013 by danii

[Inkinsurgent]

I've got one of those for hiking. Useful to keep your neck out of the sun. Wouldn't want to be seen dead in one in the city, though.

[Dressed Down]

Appreciate the kind words!  Part 2: Beginner's Buying Guide just went up.  https://dresseddown.squarespace.com/blog/2013/5/13/intro-to-techwear-pt-2-beginners-buying-guide

 

Part 2 is definitely not meant to be digested all at once unless you get really caught up.  As I said before, I'm very happy to add or remove things if you guys have good suggestions.

 

A more comprehensive full brand list based on genre of style  will go up tomorrow.

[Brainboy]

Dressed Down: I really appreciate your effort, I like the writing and the article overall.

However there are some parts that I have some problems with. Please take this as an attempt of constructive criticism.

 

Part 1 - Techninja

 

The downsides are that these brands may release technical or modular features that are only lightly tested or specialized to a fault, and some function may be sacrificed for fashion. 

 

 

I can't agree with this at all. Can you present any examples of this?

 

 

Part 2 - Shells

 

 

For business casual, outdoors companies like REI, Patagonia, and The North Face all make reasonably priced shells but they will usually show a logo.

 

 

I definitely wouln't recommend companies that only make outdoor shells for business casual, let alone pedestrian crap like TNF (sorry).

 

 

Part 2 - Accessories

 

 

For naturalist, you can go with rope, leather, elephant hair/grass, or precious metals in classic, masculine designs.  More minimal designs from Miansai and Giles & Brother fit the bill, but any fashion webstore will feature designs that work as well.

 

 

I just don't see any connection with Techwear function or aesthetics here, it's a bit confusing here.

[Dressed Down]

Dressed Down: I really appreciate your effort, I like the writing and the article overall.

However there are some parts that I have some problems with. Please take this as an attempt of constructive criticism.

 

Part 1 - Techninja

 

I can't agree with this at all. Can you present any examples of this?

 

 

Part 2 - Shells

 

 

I definitely wouln't recommend companies that only make outdoor shells for business casual, let alone pedestrian crap like TNF (sorry).

 

 

Part 2 - Accessories

 

 

I just don't see any connection with Techwear function or aesthetics here, it's a bit confusing here.

I appreciate you commenting, all of this is up for discussion.

 

Re Part 1 - Techninja: I stated this primarily from remembering posts criticizing especially adventurous designs like the Acronym Gravity Pocket.  Now that I'm considering it further, it's a pretty serious accusation against brands who create functional clothing.  If we more people agree that my claim is inaccurate, I will remove it.  I hope people will respond quickly so I can decide to pull or keep.

 

Re Part 2 - Shells: I make the accusation primarily for people who want effective shells at prices they might be able to accept.  While I would hope they go beyond Outdoor brands, especially TNF, it's a viable option.  I can pull specific outdoors brand recommendations if people feel they're detrimental.

 

Re Part 2 - Accessories: this section was more stylistic than anything else.  I separated it between more functional items and purely aesthetic in hopes that that would be clear.  The concept of "accessories" is so massive that I reduced it to what I thought was acceptable.

 

Feel free to argue, and I hope other people join in as well.

[WillKhitie]

That entire accessory bit makes me cringe. Rope? Leather? Elephant hair? Braided strands of wheat grass you can eat for survival? Need you delve that far? I'm thinking it's a section you can just omit entirely. 

 

I'm sure you are writing with good intentions but the I find myself going from "that's interesting" to "that's painful" a bit too often. The switching between objectivity and subjectivity makes it a difficult read (i.e. like eating pork liver and ice cream, both are good in it's own context, but try mixing it. Not fun).

 

I might be speaking for myself here, but an integral part of the appeal of this whole "techwear" thing is the research and discovery. It's almost a unique tangent of fashion that could absolutely survive without any traditional marketing / press. (This is also partially/mainly why I get a terrible and almost gag-like reflex to brands that go into, guns blazing, armed with the usual bag of fashion marketing tools – probably purchased at your local retail marketing seminar. ex. Haven video, Indochino, that-outlier-wannabe-that-shall-not-be-further-named).

[WillKhitie]

You might want to consider the possibility that this article is:

 

a. Alienating the primary and initial target market by how you are presenting it.

 

The "fashion" geeks/otaku who are into or get into this like the maniacal amount of research/time/money it takes to get from first-sighting to purchase. The way your article is done now feels more slanted towards encouraging the "consumer" than the "enthusiast". (ex. questionable suggestions, questionable sections, questionable amount of jargon, questionable examples – highlight Margiela x G-Shock, etc.)

 

 

b. Robbing people who are interested of getting into "techwear", that initially and primary experience of discovery.

 

I hope that I'm not alone in saying that it's something integral to its philosophy/core. It's not just the initial realization that this jacket can do this/interface with that. The act of spending money to buy into it somehow creates this byproduct that pushes you to discover something about yourself. (ex. sudden inclination/s to want to: a. hike, b. lift, c. run, d. workout, e. cycle to work, etc.)

 

It's also an initial barrier/hurdle that weeds out a lot of people who just want to hop on the "latest trend".

 

 

c. Killing what you love.

 

I'd like to apologize in advance if this offends you, but I can almost print your write-up out and conduct a $50/head seminar on 'intro into techwear: the next fashion obsession' (the type that serves yakitori and aeropressed/pourover single origin coffee in the middle). I'm not saying you should cease and desist doing it any further, but maybe rethink your intention of why you are doing it and apply it to the slant. I haven't read your entire blog, but it would be great, and much more interesting, if you focus on "what you want", instead of "what I should want" as a reader. Be an enthusiast, not a consumer. 

 

 

Disclaimer: I wrote this purely as constructive criticism from my perspective as a cog in this whole thing. I hope this helps point your blog/article towards the right direction. Also, if anybody wants to hit me up to do that seminar, I think we'd make bank. 

Edited May 15, 2013 by WillKhitie

[Dressed Down]

Hey, thanks for the input. 

 

Re: Tone - You have serious issues with my tone, which is explicit in one of your points and implicit when you take the suggestions overall.  It's just something we're gonna butt heads about.  Objectivity and subjectivity are mixed together because none of the information can or should be set in stone - I'm a normal guy writing about a nebulous concept.  I tried to keep the tone serious enough to have authority, but kept in mind I'm still talking about clothes.  It can't all be super serious.  I included jargon and slang because I tried to cobble together a common language out of what exists so far.  

 

Re: Robbing people of discovery: Like I said, nothing is set in stone so there's no reason the articles can't spur discussion.  I think you might enjoy Part 4 (construction, science and terminology) which is written with a more official voice and includes reference links.  Part 5 will combine the Inspiration and "Future Tech" articles, and includes a nice article on how Uniqlo is a kind of mass Tech company, and William S Gibson's thoughts on fashion. I think the people who just want a cool jacket will hit and run, which will help the companies out; the people who get curious will stick around and try to find out more.  There don't need to be more barriers to entry.  The only place having a real discussion about this stuff is SuFu.  Breathe easy, I don't think I linked here once.

 

Re: Written for Consumers: This was written for the layperson that I assumed would want to purchase a product.  Techwear is consumer products, and as we discuss it here, it always has a style component, hence why you get a section like "Accessories."  I get why that's painful to you, it's not the best one in there.  But I wanted to show that Techwear has many stylistic ways you can approach it. 

[dranoelsy]

shouldve mentioned elite sox

 

[Inkinsurgent]

I agree with the notion that some fashion-forward techwear brands will introduce design features that are primarily aesthetic instead of functional. Acr's gravity pocket is a good example, as is the overly complex and geometric patterning sometimes found in their clothing. I personally also think their jacket sling is kind of silly. We've also seen other brands like NSW use snap buttons on shell fabrics, or use welding/cold bonding on seams that would probably be better off just being sewn.

Maybe it would be better phrased as "some techwear brands introduce features based on aesthetic appeal rather than pure function" or something. That makes it a little less damning, as aesthetics are a legitimate consideration.

[Dressed Down]

I like that.  I've edited the description slightly to add it.

[drgitlin]

I personally also think their jacket sling is kind of silly. 

Really? It's the one thing I use most of all, and constantly get positive comments about from normals.

[Dressed Down]

Aesthetically I've always enjoyed jacket slings.  I'm considering having one put in my favorite leather jacket.  But leather isn't tech.  Part 3, a brand list, is up.  I added a few caveats about unproven brands, but if people have additions or suggestions, let me know.

 

https://dresseddown.squarespace.com/blog/2013/5/15/intro-to-techwear-pt-3-brand-list

[Inkinsurgent]

Really? It's the one thing I use most of all, and constantly get positive comments about from normals.

To me, it's one of those ideas where the added complexity outweighs the relatively small benefits. But if you have a use for the jacket sling, i won't argue against it.

Part 3, a brand list, is up.  I added a few caveats about unproven brands, but if people have additions or suggestions, let me know.

 

As patagonia doesn't have a site for their .mil business, it might be useful to mention that their stuff often ends up on ebay, especially the PCU block I and II items. Very popular with japanese collectors who will pay four-digit prices for especially rare items. Same goes for Beyond Tactical's contract items.

Edited May 15, 2013 by Inkinsurgent

[SuE]

Isaora is having a sample sale (209 W 38th St.), anyone going?

 

 

Appreciate the kind words!  Part 2: Beginner's Buying Guide just went up.  https://dresseddown.squarespace.com/blog/2013/5/13/intro-to-techwear-pt-2-beginners-buying-guide

 

Part 2 is definitely not meant to be digested all at once unless you get really caught up.  As I said before, I'm very happy to add or remove things if you guys have good suggestions.

 

A more comprehensive full brand list based on genre of style  will go up tomorrow.

 

I don't think Ventile/Etaproof should be classed with the 'softshells'. Either stick it with the 'shells' or put it in its own category (e.g. call it 'lightshell' as Acronym does)

[Dressed Down]

Part 4, the Glossary.  https://dresseddown.squarespace.com/blog/2013/5/15/intro-to-techwear-part-4-the-glossary

 

Construction, science, synthetics, natural fibers, insulation, treatments, and several care guides.  If you guys dispute something let me know.

[Inkinsurgent]

^small correction: while nextec's silicone encapsulation can be used on cotton, it's still primarily used on synthetics. Their primary market is military, one of their nylon based fabrics has been used as the level 5 softshell layer in the PCU programme since 2004. Why is beyond me, as epic's performance is remarkably poor.

[FinleyB]

normals.

 

lol'd

[Dressed Down]

Thanks for the catch Inkinsurgent, change was made almost immediately.

 

Part 5, Inspiration.  https://dresseddown.squarespace.com/blog/2013/5/16/intro-to-techwear-pt-5-inspiration

 

 

Blogs, styling, cultural touchstones, designer philosophy, and how new and conceptual tech is advancing clothing. 

 

It's all over guys.  You can rest easy.

Edited May 17, 2013 by Dressed Down

[lobstertainment]

that links to part 4

[Dressed Down]

Oof.  Thanks for the notice.

[Abe1x]

Hey Dressed Down, impressive work, thanks for putting it together. It's already pretty broad in scope but here are some suggestions on extending it. 

 

Surprised not to see any mention of Neil Barrett & Puma 96 Hours. Barrett launched Prada Menswear and Prada Sport as such really was the key designer in Techwear's most populist moment. His own label is still going strong although it hasn't particularly evolved much since 2000. He did a bunch of designs for Puma 96 Hours along with Chalayan and Vexed Generation. I guess this line was guilty of bad timing, it was very deliberately an urban techwear line right at the nadir of the style in the mid 00s, but that aside it's pretty much an essential mention.

 

More contemporarily Carol Christian Poell, Iris Van Herpen, Nicolas Ghesquière and Boris Bidjan Saberi all really deserve to be in the fashion/tech section. The first three because they are clearly pushing the technology far harder than the rest, and BBS because he's bringing a major skate/streetwear influence in (plus he's a killer patternmaker who clearly thinks a lot about motion). 

 

On the military side, didn't see any mention of Crye or Otte. 

 

Also really would love to see a new section on the history of it all. Massimo Osti is the godfather of course and only some of his labels are mentioned. Also be cool to see stuff about pioneering labels like Sabatoge and Vexed Generation. There is also a whole world of rave and club labels that embraced very technical aesthetics without really being technical. Anarchic Adjustment, Liquid Sky, Daniel Poole, Cassette Playa and tons more. Also loads of interesting stuff to be dug out of the history of outdoor gear, particularly all the stuff going on in the late 70's when Gore emerged. 

 

Finally maybe worth mentioning some of the labels that while they feel heritage today actually were born as super technical labels. Mackintosh in particular, as they invented waterproof fabrics, and while I haven't see it documented I suspect seam sealing as well. Turn a Mackintosh inside out and you'll find something that looks a whole lot like a Arcteryx, except that they were doing all that stuff over a century before Arc came into existence. Similarly Burberry started by inventing Gabardine, which offered the best water resistance/breathablity combo at the time. Their iconic trench coats were military garments, designed for trench warfare in WW 1 and if you break one apart you'll find an incredibly purpose driven functional garment. Levis is worth mentioning too, they invented jeans by riveting seams together for strength and used tent fabric for extra durability. 

 

hope that's helpful. 

[Nebulae]

While not strictly tech, Aitor Throup has a copy of his manifesto up here.

Might be interesting to throw it up there because it does mention utilitarian design mentality.  Just a little.

[SuE]

and BBS because he's bringing a major skate/streetwear influence in (plus he's a killer patternmaker who clearly thinks a lot about motion). 

 

Devoa is another fashion/tech designer that's been recommended.

 

Motion gets mentioned a lot less that membranes. I glossed over it when diving into techware (e.g. "gusseted crotch"... ok, "patent pending pivot sleeve"... meh, and so on) and still find it harder to evaluate. It's inaccessible to a newbie as it's not a feature easily explained via pictures on the internet nor confirmed by trying out an outfit at a retail shop. I'm now reading up on basic traditional clothing construction as I don't know where else to even begin to learn about this stuff.