The Flat Head

[JHC76]

Cold Summer - I agree with the stitching of the RM from my experience as well. Mine did last about 4 years before certain spots needed to be fixed.

The shirt I have is the work shirt....still just doesn't fit me well. I didn't look close enough that you had the western version on. Maybe a 46 would work out better... I'll have to see next time I am looking around to get something.

[itsbenhere]

I completely agree with Tyler.  In my opinion, this is pretty much the ultimate bifold.  I like the look of long wallets, but when I see them poke out of pockets it just feels like a bit much to me personally.  

 

This wallet is in no way not over the top though.  It's immaculate stitching, various leathers, and monstrous size lead me to describe it as extravagant, but it's definitely the best type of extravagant.

 

It's pretty giant, like I said, and not super useable right away but I'm sure that it will be as I use it.  If you look at Kiya's pictures of his after its been worn a while (and he should post some more pictures if he's still using it) it flattens out to a very reasonable yet hefty size.  

 

I had an Iron Heart wallet before and while it was definitely good, there were a few things that it left me wanting.  Firstly, after wear, it felt a little small.  Not in terms of capacity but it really flattened out and I found myself wanting something a little more substantial. The Wild Child definitely fits the bill.

 

Secondly, because of the way the top was stitched, there was an unsightly splitting of the leathers.  While there was no problem functionally, it was pretty annoying for someone as nitpicky as I am.  When you look at the top of the Wild Child and the way it's burnished around the edges you can tell that the wallet is not going to split, it's really insanely perfect.  

 

The things that put it over the top for me were the cordovan layer which not only provides support to the wallet but also wears in your jeans in a really cool way, and the silver ring even though I probably won't use it.  It's helpful getting it out of my pocket at this point and should you ride a motorcycle will ensure that it doesn't fall out.  It really is an awesome wallet, and since my jeans are unlined there should be some nice evo in not too long!

 

 

 

Like I said, it's definitely not going to split any time soon.  

 

 

This is basically what the bottom half of me looks like every day, and I am very happy about that.

 

Edited December 9, 2013 by itsbenhere

[shoreman]

No shame here…all you guys looking to sell size 44-46 Native Check work shirts, feel free to drop me a pm. 

 

[Broark]

And I second that tres!

[tonoak]

6 months for PROXFH05

 

 

 

[tmadd]

Pretty crazy outer calf fades!

 

Those jeans would pop so hard if you gave them a machine wash about now.

[Broark]

Wow, those look awesome.

Really want my pair to turn out like that!

[Kobe Beef]

So what's the story with that new 3012 model? Anyone had the chance to try them on? The measurements seems to be a bit odd but I think I'd like the fit.

 

 

 

 

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/bears/item/theflathead-3012/

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Kyle wrote an article abut them on rawrdenim.  Check it out

http://www.rawrdenim.com/2013/12/flat-head-tapered-loomstate-3012-just-released/

[Kobe Beef]

Yeah, that's where I first read about it.

I think I will try to try them one of these days and if I like them I will make them my self x'mas gift.

[tmadd]

I like the idea of this cut, and I definitely understand the pragmatic reasons for this, but it's a terrible look to have a model with a +/- 30" inseam modeling this raw at 39".  That's always a bad idea, but with a cut like this, it really destroys the clean silhouette that can be achieved with such a cut.

[Planetarium]

Finally, my dream cut

 

No more sized up 3001s.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah this might be my first pair of Flathead...sometime..

[Sugar Mountain]

Kinda surprised that you haven't messed with the 3009 cut b_F... Not to your liking?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Actually I am eyeing that one too. Was also thinking about the 3002 for a while. Wrote with Kyle about it yesterday/today.

And I was on the fence to buy the 3009 some years back before they switched to the printed pocket bags (of which I am honestly not very fond of). Been in contact with 2ND back then...the non printed version was also cheaper

Edited December 12, 2013 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Max Power]

Great cut....something to keep in mind. I tried on the 3009 and it was a great cut. If they come with slightly longer inseam and rise and enoughroom for the thighs, they might be perfect. Although, I miss a size 35. As they all run pretty true to size and I'm a true 35, I am always torn between 34 and 36 in FH models.

Edited December 12, 2013 by Max Power

[Sugar Mountain]

The waist sizing on this new cut appears to be way off though. I would have to buy a tagged 32 or 33 to get a true waist of 30-31''.

[Max Power]

Yes, you're right. I'd go with a 36 in those and they still might be tight. But I'll wait for another shop to post measurements. However,  I think I'd prefer the 3009 cut, as it is a little less tapered.

Edited December 12, 2013 by Max Power

[itsbenhere]

The 3009 cut is amazing. I'm really glad that the 3012 didn't come out a few months ago or I probably would've scooped them instead of the 3009.

I might be alone but I'm really starting to prefer less tapered models. Not having giant leg openings is great but at a certain point it just looks feminine....what's crazy to me about the 3009 cut is that even though the thighs are plenty roomy and the leg opening is decently small, it's cut in such a way that it looks both straight and classic, and slim and modern at the same time. No clue how they did it, but in my opinion it's a really really versatile jean.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I saw your fit and it is really amazing! What size do you have? The 3009 might be the better option, that's true.

From Kyle's description the 3012 sounds very similar in the cut to the UES 400T I'm wearing for the next year (hopefully).

[Max Power]

You can add a +1 to the "hopefully", but for other reasons. The 3012 seems a bit slimmer than the 400T to me, right? Almost like the IH 555, which applies to the thigh and rise as well as the leg opening.

[Cold Summer]

If you like the idea of the 3002 or IH 555 but have big thighs and want a longer rise, the 3012 is the perfect pair for you.  b_F and Max, I think the 3012 or 3009 would be good fits for either of you.  Max, you could probably go 36 in the 3009, and 34 in the 3012. 

[Max Power]

Thank you! I hope that DC4 gets some in, as Ill be in Berlin a lot next year. I think it's best to try them on.

[Maynard Friedman]

Why not just man up and get the. 3005/1005 like me?

[Max Power]

TBH, I'm a bit fed up with the straight / wide cuts. I wore the 5000VX, the even wider 500XX and the not very slim 888 the last years. I still think that the 710 looked best on me and the compliments I got for my 555 recently made me realize that again.

 

Though I have to say, I simply put comfort over optics. As I'm beginning to feel old now, I guess it's time for a last "optic over comfort" pair. Next step would be a rubber waistband sewn in by my wife.

[Broark]

As a guy with bigger thighs I think the 3012 looks interesting.

I would like to see some more measurements from different shops though, as those look a bit strange.

Also, I ended up having to give my 2111s an impromptu machine wash as someone spilled an entire beer on them the other night. 

[cmboland]

I bought my 3002 in August of this year direct from Japan. The only complaint is the waist band is a bit too big and the rise barely too low. They're a 36, I bet a 34 in the 3012 would be my perfect pair. Mannnnnn

[itsbenhere]

b_F, thanks for the kind words! I took a size 33 in the 3009. I can post up some measurements if you'd like... I've had them for a few weeks and they've stretched sufficiently in the waist and top block but I don't think that they've stretched in the thighs as they were never tight. In my opinion the size 33 is best for someone whose a 31-32 waist, they shrunk all the way to 30" after a hot wash but quickly stretched out to around the pre-soak waist.

I think I'm going to post up a fit before I wash them around Christmas. I'm already seeing some whiskers and fades in the thighs, very exciting

Edited December 13, 2013 by itsbenhere

[Sugar Mountain]

I think I'm going to post up a fit before I wash them around Christmas. I'm already seeing some whiskers and fades in the thighs, very exciting

 

It's true, Flat Head's Pioneer denim is a pleasure to wear and see fade. I had a pair of 3001 a couple of years back that sadly got too tight around the thighs to keep wearing. Really should have opted for the 3009 instead (tried on both) but now I'm thinking that the 3005/1005 might be a future pair somewhere down the line.

[tmadd]

The 3009 cut is amazing. I'm really glad that the 3012 didn't come out a few months ago or I probably would've scooped them instead of the 3009.

I might be alone but I'm really starting to prefer less tapered models. Not having giant leg openings is great but at a certain point it just looks feminine....what's crazy to me about the 3009 cut is that even though the thighs are plenty roomy and the leg opening is decently small, it's cut in such a way that it looks both straight and classic, and slim and modern at the same time. No clue how they did it, but in my opinion it's a really really versatile jean.

 

I agree that the 3009 is a pretty phenomenal cut...I've seen dudes wearing them making it look like a really slim cut, and I've also seen it fit seamlessly into the wardrobe of guys who only wear repro cuts...it definitely versatile.  

 

This touches on an entirely larger conversation regarding classic straight fits versus cuts with significant taper, whether they are slimmer (SE05BSP/3002) or more of a relaxed fit but with a drastic below knee taper (3012).  I don't want to get super deep into it here, but I think cuts like the 3009 get passed over a lot because jeans without any taper lose all natural shape and silhouette when they are significantly too long for the person trying them on.  This is also exacerbated when the jean is as rigid as Flat Heads are. One must be in possession of a pretty good understanding of how the shape of jeans change once they are hemmed to the right length (and cuffed, if that's happening), or they will assume a cut like the 3009 will look baggy and sloppy and not have any shape below the knee.  Tapered jeans mitigate this substantially.  

 

I'm not against tapered jeans by any means, and if it's a look someone wants to go for, for any of the many reasons one might want to, then it's an awesome option to have, but I think for a lot of people, especially if they are wearing boots, and if they are cuffing to a point where the jean doesn't break, straight cuts offer significantly better proportion where the jeans meet the boot, and have the added benefit of not highlighting the (not always, but often the case) fact that the individuals hips are the widest part of their body.