Loopwheeled/Vintage T-Shirts

[MJF9]

@mlwdp the purpose of those buttons came up in the Unknown Japanese Brands thread for similar Bronson t-shirts I got (I know... someone (me) posted in the wrong thread while all 3 mods just let it slide... I know)... apparently they were used for hanging the t-shirts out to dry... mine came with some string for that purpose... did you get strings with this?

[mlwdp]

That’s interesting, never dawned on me about it when hanging them out to dry.  Would like to see this done if others here do that with the holes/strings.  No strings with mine.

 I’m not too familiar with old naval tshirt history as well if this was common practice.

[mlwdp]

Phigvel long sleeve tshirt I just got today.  Got it from the Anemoscope summer sale for $30.  Head opening somewhat narrow, will stretch with wear.  This shirt is basically similar to the turtle neck version I have.

 

 

Edited July 20 by mlwdp

[MJF9]

Three more of these lovely Tezonmeya t-shirts landed recently

I went with 2x long-sleeved in the 185cm size (roughly XL) and one short-sleeved in the 175cm (L)

I'm a big fan of the fantastic, warm, dull and deep (almost oxymoronic but true) plant based colours... and how well they wear (I see them as casual with many uses) 

Julian shared his lovely faded t-shirts above which spurred me into action

+++ I have to say that the service from Tezomeya was excellent... great communication with much appreciated flexibility that has set me up for summer - very pleased

Nibi-iro... delicate gray from green alder cones + iron mordant

Miru-iro... khaki green from bayberry tree bark

Kenbourguro-iro... deep black from indigo + Bayberry tree bark + iron mordant

Plus here's the full colour range for those interested...

Edited July 20 by MJF9

[julian-wolf]

Glad you decided to grab some. The nibi-iro and kenbourguro-iro were my two most recent pickups, too (both as 175 cm Henley necked short sleeve tees) and they’re fantastic, somehow simultaneously simple greyscale and deep green–blue–brown. You’re right to call them both dull and deep.

Jonathan, who I guess handles their international orders & English-language communication, is the same that many here will know from his Banana Almanac fame, and more recently from Two Ears Brand + Ooe’s One Ear Brand. He does a great job answering all sorts of questions etc

Edited July 21 by julian-wolf
autocorrect

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I also picked up a few awhile back - a few undyed annd a nibi-iro Henley  and was pleased enough to pick up a few more. More than probably anything I wear regularly my t shirt stock is old anjd wearing thin. So now awaiting a few indigo designs too. I hope they get the 170cm long sleeve Henley back in some time. But yes - they’re nice shirts.  

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Just for fun - I had enough walnuts fall early in the season for a dye batch. An old cream ladywhite T on top, cheap white Muji slub tee on the bottom. Ladywhite t dyed overnight, Muji T just about an hour. Both are a bit darker in reality. 

[Talan]

 

Roping on sleeves of Tezomeya shirts (Ebizome and Fujinezu)

 

John Mayer of Dead & Company in Ebizome shirt, pic from Tezomeya’ site.

[Vulcan]

Anyone have any suggestions for t shirts with longer bodies that are good for wearing tucked in? I feel like the majority of the shirts I'm looking at from Japan have pretty short bodies, which will often come untucked in the back when I sit or bend over. Looks like some of the Merz shirts and Eastman/ELMC have longer bodies made for tucking. 

[MJF9]

^ Tezomeya - certainly for the larger size called 185cm these are longer and good for tucking - the link has chest/length sizes to see if they'd work for you

[Vulcan]

I am mainly looking for white t shirts, but now that I am taking a closer look at Tezomeya I am probably going to grab at least one of them, those colors and texture are terrific.

 

Any recommendations for traditional white tees? 

[simontuntelder]

15 hours ago, Vulcan said:

I am mainly looking for white t shirts, but now that I am taking a closer look at Tezomeya I am probably going to grab at least one of them, those colors and texture are terrific.

 

Any recommendations for traditional white tees? 

Merz B Schwanen are pretty long

if you’re satisfied with tubular t-shirts the 2 pack from Goodwear is pretty good value for money and they’re long enough to be tucked if memory serves me, but not that interesting to be honest

[Thanks_M8]

Gildan heavy cottons are pretty long, last long enough and are tubular knit

[Vulcan]

7 hours ago, simontuntelder said:

Merz B Schwanen are pretty long

if you’re satisfied with tubular t-shirts the 2 pack from Goodwear is pretty good value for money and they’re long enough to be tucked if memory serves me, but not that interesting to be honest

I want a shirt that will let me bring out my inner 50's greaser. I'm between Merz B Schwanen and Mister Freedom for the classic undershirt vibe.

6 hours ago, Thanks_M8 said:

Gildan heavy cottons are pretty long, last long enough and are tubular knit

Thanks for the suggestion, I've worn some decent Gildans in the past but I'm looking to upgrade to something more premium, also I appreciate smaller companies that don't use sweat shops and tend to have better labor practices. Not saying I know that Gildan does, but....

 

I love the Japanese companies for their attention to detail, quality construction, etc. but the Japan sizing typically is very short. I have a few Buzz Rickson shirts that are great for wearing by themselves, or untucked under a Hawaiian shirt or jacket, but are way too short to tuck in. I should also say that I wash all my clothes on cold and throw them in the dryer, which shrinks then.

 

The only downside to the classic 50s style t shirts like Merz and Mister Freedom is that they have fairly flimsy necks that get kind of baggy and stretched out with lots of use (I have a MF shirt, not s Merz so just inferring about the Merz). Ideally, I am looking for a classic styled lighter weight shirt with enough length to tuck that has a nice tight crew neck that won't get stretched out with use.

 

I dig the Tezomeya shirts but the sleeves are super long and it definitely has a more "relaxed" fit. These shirts would have a place in my wardrobe, but they have a much different vibe than the classic Brando/Dean tee style of the 50's.

 

Anyways, forgive my rambling. It's been fun to dive into all the premium t shirts on the market. The tough part is that t shirt measurements often don't convey how they will fit. Arm hole size, fabric stretchiness/rigidity, opening size, and neck hole size all greatly affect the fit but are usually not quantified by retailers.

[Geeman]

I wouldn't call them premium but Bronson ts, the loopwheel tubular and athletic , have good necks a decent fit and are typically a bit longer than my MiJ ts.

 

[fabes]

I picked up a couple Tezomeya short sleeve shirts in their undyed option. Wanted to share how they fit me as I was new to their sizing. I’m roughly 5’9-10” (177cm) 163lb (74kg) and typically wear US Medium shirts and L/40 or 16 in Japan sizes, mainly FW shirts. 

For Tezomeya, I went with sizes 170 & 175 and they both work well. The 170 hits just below the waistband on the FW 51s in the pics and is great under a denim jacket untucked. The 175 fits looser and longer, but not excessive by any means, just a more relaxed fit. I like the soft, light feel and would be open to picking one of their dyed offerings as I like the muted earthy colors. 
 

Thanks @julian-wolf and @AlientoyWorkmachine for the sizing advice! Hope this can also be helpful to anyone else interested in trying Tezomeya. 
 

For both pics, Left is 170 - Right is 175

[Double 0 Soul]

I like the fit of the 170 on you @fabes it looks perfect, I’ve loved the fabric of these ever since Ooms brought them to my attention but never taken the plunge because the size charts made me think they would fit too long in the body for my taste.. clearly not

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

That looks good @fabes. I ended up with a few more 170s in different colors. Really like them. They’ll be my staple from here on out I think. My 175s are perfect for a more slouchy sort of deal. 

[Double 0 Soul]

@fabes

Have those been washed?

If yes.. can you post a couple of pics showing each tee being measured from pit to pit and from collar to hem at the back

If no.. there is no rush but can you update the thread with sizing once they've been through the machine.

Thx

[julian-wolf]

I never thought I’d see the day that @Double 0 Soul would consider spending more than £5 on a cotton tee shirt

[Double 0 Soul]

.. my t-shirt supplier lost his unit a couple of years ago in the gentrification, he's now a landscape gardener

If only i needed a cheap lawnmower

Gone but not forgotten.. He had a large leather armchair which he fitted castors to the feet and he and my kid would make a tower out of all the t-shirt boxes then he would push him at speed into the tower.. rebuild >repeat

Edited September 19 by Double 0 Soul

[fabes]

@Double 0 Soul you got it! They came washed and I’ve run them through the machine cold wash, hang dry a few times now and there were no changes.  
 

I’ll try to get some measurements w/ pics up soon. Probably sometime tomorrow. 

[fabes]

Here’s the tezomeya specs. @Double 0 Soul  I suspect the 170 measures smaller in the chest right out of the wash and stretched out slightly when I put the shirts on for the fit pics. 
size 170 - p2p 52cm, length 59.5cm, shoulder 43cm, sleeve 21cm

 

size 175 - p2p 53cm, length 63.7cm, shoulder 44cm, sleeve 21cm

Edited September 20 by fabes

[Double 0 Soul]

Perfect! .. Thanks @fabes  the 170 will be spot on

All of my t-shirts are battered (embarrassingly so) i need to relegate them all to work tees and relegate the work tees to rags so i'm considering buying a batch of Tezo tees.. i just didn't want to splurge on the wrong size.

Now i justr need to work out whether to buy a batch and get shafted with border charges or buy them in batches of 2, keeping them under the £135 limit and pay 3x lots of shipping charges

[dada mafiosi]

Hi

Anyone knows the actual pre or post wash measurement of Whitesvile T shirt (2 pack), chest , shoulder, pit to pit in size L and/or XL.

Please share

Edited October 4 by dada mafiosi

[indigoeagle]

Jelado USMC loop wheel tee

Manufactured by Isamu Ono/Rebuilt.

https://jelado.com/products/jelado-usmc-loopwheel-tee-ag82221?_pos=1&_sid=195a25fab&_ss=r

tubular hanging knit jersey - Wakayama hanging knitting machine

Cotton thread is used for the basic sewing thread, and silk thread is used for the under-stitching of the collar lining

Three types of vintage sewing machines are used:

• FLATLOCK,
• two-needle wrapper sewing machine (collar binder) UNOIN SPECIAL 52800, a high-speed semi-automatic oiling sewing machine from the late 1930s.
• for the hem: UNIONSPECIAL G76000
   

Edited October 16 by indigoeagle

[dada mafiosi]

Real McCoy's BUCO ENINGEERS BC240003 Tee Shirt, size L, Color White 

Shoulder: 46

Chest: 55.5

Hem: 56

Length: 69

Tubular knit tee shirt, later come to know that size M is 52cm width

Washing instructions tag show "hand wash", this is a little bit annoying for me, sent mail to Real McCoy , awaiting their reply

Edited October 21 by dada mafiosi

[dada mafiosi]

Iron Heart Tee shirt , paired with Warehouse 1001xx Banner Denim

IH-2404 7.5oz Heavy Body Print , size L, color Navy 

Shoulder : 49

Chest : 54

Hem: 55

Length: 68

Later come to know that size M is 51cm chest width

This Tee is heavier knit than BUCO ENIGINEERS, but a little hotter

Tubular Knit, I washed at 30C though washing instructions states 40C possible, but see no shrinkage

Edited October 21 by dada mafiosi

[indigoeagle]

These Cushman special pocket tees also look quite nice.
Sewn with the Union Specials 52800 and 39500 as well as the Singers  81 and 71.

 

 

They also have these openings on the hem to hang them up for drying on a ship.

Edited October 21 by indigoeagle

[dada mafiosi]

Whitesville - 2PACK S/S TEE - WV73544

Color White, size L

Shoulder: 46

Chest: 54

Hem: 54

Length: 68 

After 1st wash of 30C, the length becamte 67other measurements remain the same. 

Fabric is soft