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Day 2 in the Peaks with my lad Walked up Mam Tor… the plan had been to do it early but it was lashing down with rain… we so went later and there were tourists everywhere (ironic I know) Next year, I expect to be the smallest A present had been left at the car pfffff Even more ironically, passed this sign driving back… I did feel I’d been… Denime 10th anniversary ‘37s, Tezomeya and McCooys Daisy Mae… plus more meat Next day, we were in the lido at Haversage before 8am... dodging the blue-rinse old dear brigade swimming two abreast like CHiPs... only different as there were no motorbikes in the pool ... it was a invigorating start to the day Haversage main street And a really nice breakfast… (even more upmarket than Sharrow Vale Road Neal!!) Only 48 hours away... but it felt rejuvenating… the end!

Meanwhile, patched over the opening to the left front pocket earlier this week with fabric from the cut off hem of one of my Tender Co. shirts, dyed w/ Prussian blue. I’ve stitched over a few seams, previously, but this is the first real repair—almost always is, for me. I really love how the pocket bag denim is fading; it’s a beautiful rich blue. Plus: photos before the upcoming wash, I think no. 5 or 6?

All i can offer for this weeks thread contribution is Japanese candy's Peach juice gummies Banana / Chocolate Miniture strawberry cheesecake Jigglypuff peach soda 2x sticks of gum.. one turns your tongue black, the other turns it red and some non Japanese angel hair chocolate

Selvedge cloth at the rivet on the inside of the chest pocket. I've only seen this on Freewheelers' 506 and 507. Is this FWs taking artistic licence with this little detail or are they the only ones to have bothered to replicate? The original Levi's jackets have the size tag above the leather patch and I have also only seen that on FW's jackets.

This weekend: baking pies, moving starts to pots (pictured: Mexican sour gherkins), watching older plants grow older, keeping an eye on the dogs and on the cricket that’s been hanging around our kitchen sink for the past few weeks

Lots of older and some unknown old brands here. Something for you @Double 0 Soul? http://ryunogarage.g2.xrea.com/collection/jeans/jeans-col-b/jeans-col-b.html

Size 34x35 One-wash Waist: 86 cm / 33.85" Front rise: 31 cm / 12.2" Back rise: 42 cm / 16.5" Thighs: 35 cm / 13.78" Knee: 26 cm / 10.23" Leg opening: 24 cm / 9.45" Inseam: 92 cm / 36.2"

Button reinforcement on my Eternal Type II, not selvedge though. No similar reinforcement on my TCB 30s jacket.

Freewheelers 1900 pullover White Horse Ranch jeans Nicks boots

@Maynard Friedman looks like some good wear on that there jacket... in fact, it's exactly the kind of thing denim enthusiasts might like to stare at on a denim forum 😉

🌿 Gardener Overalls — Brand History & Profile Founded in the mid-1990s by Ichiro Ueki, Gardener Overalls is a Japanese denim label deeply rooted in the American workwear tradition, yet distinguished by a unique design ethos and Japanese craftsmanship. 👤 Founder: Ichiro Ueki Ichiro Ueki was originally involved with EVISU and founded an earlier brand called Allen & Hanson in the 1980s. With a deep respect for American vintage workwear, Ueki transitioned toward developing his own denim label. Around 1995–1997, he launched Gardener Overalls. The name “Gardener” was suggested by Hidehiko Yamane, founder of EVISU, because "Ueki" (植木) in Japanese means "to plant" or "gardener" — making the brand name a clever reflection of Ueki’s identity and philosophy. 🔄 Brand Revival with Spiral Jeans After becoming a near-mythical brand among vintage denim collectors, Gardener Overalls was officially revived by Japanese retailer Spiral Jeans in the late 2010s. This relaunch was done in direct collaboration with Ichiro Ueki himself, and includes: Faithful reproductions of older models like the 1954XX New releases such as 1937XX and Hawaiian shirt collections Exclusive limited editions, all sold only through Spiral Jeans (online and in-store) Gardener is now listed as a "Spiral Original Brand", yet remains firmly guided by Ueki's philosophy and technical oversight.

Top to bottom 1922 1937 WWII

But that is counterbalanced by their rarity factor (usually firmly rooted in the pockets of dour-faced owners or stuffed into mattresses) which makes them worth £5.01

I think the button reinforcement is a Freewheelers artistic licence thing? It's not something I've ever seen highlighted on vintage jackets eg. on denimarchieves.com The FW Ironalls chore jacket has extra backing on the ring-back buttons inside the front placket I believe (I don't own one...yet), at least Iceclimber's photo's look like they show this. The size tag above the leather patch is definitely repro'd by other makers- my Neat Style x Denim Bridge has it, BoT and CSF have done it too. Sugar Cane SCSC 1946 has it, but the 1943/1945 don't because the vintage jackets they based it off didn't.

I've just got back from the Peaks.. you're right, there are a lot more tourists out today, it's sign it's the school holidays. Good and bad experience for me.. the bad part was, i had an argument with a National Park (i thought he was more of a national socialist tbh) Ranger about whether or not i should be riding where i was riding.. a fat rambler joined in taking his side.. i showed them on my phone that i was indeed right.. they said, "ah, but that's the internet.. it was probably written by a spotty teenager".. well that's where you're wrong, i can tell you who wrote it.. it was Derbyshire County Council .. F'kin little Hitlers! The good part was.. i was so annoyed, i pedaled faster to get it out of my system and did a PB for the route Where did you get the parking ticket @MJF9 ?

The (now) annual Dad and lad weekend away in the Peak District, infamous OO Soul country Quick pit stop en-route at Porter Coffee on Sharrow Vale road - £17 for 2 butties and £1 for parking - how much! Hardly a Sheffield accent to be heard, southern tones aplenty - gentrification of S-codes? Took the WoMs for a walk around Bamford Edge... totally staged pic looking out over the Hope Valley It's a strictly carnivorous weekend - we packed 4.4kg (yes I weighed it) of ribeye, T-bone, lamb... will we get through it all is the question And a sauna to finish the day off...

chopper pants en route. I told Seichiro I was hesitant because I love everything but the plastic buttons on the fly. I’ve had other pieces where the buttons crack and break over time due to the washing and drying. He said he can replace them for me. He always goes above and beyond.

I had remembered that a SCSC jacket had the size tag. But then I had a quick look at the Sugarcane site and saw the 43 and 45 ones, which - like you said- don't have it. It's funny- it's a little detail, but somehow to me quite enjoyable. In the Vintage Denim Jacket book there are two mid 30s jackets (Still with the small buttons, National Recovery Act versions) and they have size tag below the leather patch (vs. on the top for the later 506s).

Proper old school denimheads too @beautiful_FrEaK .. there is mention of meeting Takashi on the subway from 'Takashi's Denim Gallery' ..and mention of 'Jeans Pavillion' .. i'll have a more in depth read tomorrow.. where did you pull that from? edit- looking at the url .. ryu ..? is that Ryu who used to post here with the dragon type avatar ?

It's all the crazy instagramers, they want to park as near to the peak as possible, take a selfie and go home, like they've accomplished something.. my neighbours have been living in a van out there, they've said there has been an increase in parking tickets, to dissuade them. I like it when you see a car club out on a Peak District run out.. a convoy of Impreza WRX's for instance. The best car is always at the front, the worst at the back.. 40 something yr old men with 17yr old girlfriends.. alas, 40yr old women don't tend to hang out in B&Q car park on Friday and Saturday nights so their options of finding an age appropriate partner are limited.

Very detailed. Thank you for the review!

Bought from Coverchord sale a week ago. 740.

Check in 7.22.25. Now the heat's on I'm not wearing them as much as I'd like, but I think some evolution is evident.

No big action, just fit pics

Ted DeGrazia with Diego Rivera in 1942.

Still 12 months to go

.. dried out

Just got back from vacation visiting my parents in Florida, first time traveling with our daughter and she did great! I've heard it gets much more difficult once they're a little older so we decided to take this trip now. Didn't wear the jeans much outside of travel days, but giving them another wash today so I'll update with post wash pics. Got some crazy rain in central Texas while we were away, came back home to our roof slightly leaking but fortunately nothing was damaged. Taking it all in. Walking to the beach with Pawpaw. She really loved the sound of the ocean and did well in the pool too! Always eat as much seafood as I can whenever I'm near the ocean. Saffron and seafood risotto. Grilled out for the 4th. So long, until next time. Heading home. Pups on the ride back home, Rooney has to stay in kennel jail because he's too crazy in the car...

thanks @Le Clown Bleu- you can find some things at Goodies Oxford, Peggs & Son Brighton, and The Bureau Belfast. A couple of images of these went out in the newsletter I just sent out, but here are some more details. The best-worn pair of Weaver's Blanket Denim trews I've seen, very kindly brought in by a long-time customer and great friend of the brand. Note the twill switching at various points:

Trying to dissuade myself from getting another pair of jeans by telling myself to keep up with wearing my 50s. Had these for 4 months worn for average 3 days a week. The 13.5 oz is definitely a welcome weight for the warmer weather.

temporarily retiring this for now to focus on other pair, needless to say… incredible fabric!

Always tough to post after a Maynard-post! But here’s some worn in 101’s.

Thoroughly enjoyed wearing these 220’s. Faded too quickly though, this is from 1 year with a bit of other jeans in rotation.

The monthly wash, fresh out of the machine and waiting for the sun to appear! I forgot to change the previous program on the washing machine (washed cotton bedding the other day) so they were stuck in the machine for 3 hours.. duh

After the third wash (I think). The usual bike seat fade and mild whiskering from a loose fit. Marbling galore. Waiting for that new shade to creep through, but still sitting on more or less the original rinsed indigo blue.

Forgot about this one, languishing in the back of the coat cupboard. (Vintage) Levis Vintage Clothing 1873 Duck vest, which together with the duck hunters jacket and pants, we're some of the best pieces made by Lvc around 1999-2001. This one has had a soak and been taken in a little at the back either side of the centre seam as it was a bit baggy for my tastes and it was first worn back in the summer of 2018, when l built my own shed. Those bottom pockets were ideal for holding screws etc as l've never been a big fan of tool belts, but this was great over a vest-top worn with shorts. Think there's a pic buried deep in the Waywt thread somewhere. Not worn it since but you never know it may come in handy once more in the future. Have no idea how that lightened area came about, but it happened in storage back in the early 2000's. Pics have been randomly Sufu'd for no apparent reason again so apologies for that

Dry

Sorry to be posting more of the same, but here's some more shots taken indoors which show the denim colour and texture a bit better. Will have to get some nice shots using a proper camera one day. Like l said before, Love these. The 506XX jacket has got hardly any wear when compared to the jeans but does share some of the nice puckering... First post with pics that haven't been Sufu'd. I'm having a beer!

Starting to see more definition.

They are borderline roping too much 😅

0105 after 18 months of regular wear. Pretty satisfied with these but unlikely to consider another pair due to the excessive back rise (you can see some fade lines on the yoke due to the sag). Something I pay more attention to now... still, they are the most comfortable jeans I've owned and a super versatile cut overall. Plenty of missing threads and some heavy wear on the cuffs. Not sure what size these are as the patch had a 33 but the inner tag has a 32 – anyone else have this on their pair? Peek-a-boo:

Yeah, I had to size up from 34 to 36. The 529 chinos made from Westpoint/Weapon cloth (right hand twill) are very nice with most details of the 40s and reasonably priced at around JPY 17,000 to 20,000. They are a bit on the slimmer side with the rise more a mid-rise. From the same fabric they also have the 536 work pants, which are wider with a higher rise. (edited- I had mixed things up a bit) And there is a 528 W, which is even wider, I think. I also have this short sleeve sweat shirt, which is also very solid.

Two Moon 530 The 530 model is the regular straight model from Two Moon. They also have a 540 model which has a lower rise and is slimmer and more tapered (a "66 cut"). This version is not the from the 'recent' release in 2021 but an older model. You can identify this by the not off-set belt loop and the backpocket having a backstitch at the top (which I actually prefer to the square above the pockets, we discussed this detail recently if it was an actual Levi's thing). I'm not sure from when it is. The jeans are made of 14oz red-line selvedge denim. The cotton for the warp is from Zimbabwe but you can also find the information it being Supima cotton. The weft is US cotton or recycled cotton, both information can be found. The development of the denim started early on in the brand's life but only in 1998 or 99 they were confident enough to release it. It is designed to be tough and fade slow. It's dyed double the times than regular denim whatever this means. The old Lighning Magazine did a rating about fading speed. Momotaro and SDA were labelled 'slow', this Two Moon denim was rated 'very slow'. Perfect for a me as a collector... Points of stress (button holes, crotch seams) are sewn with poly-cotton thread. The whole concept of these jeans is durability, at least that's what the makers claim. Size 34x34 One-wash Waist: 88 cm / 34.65" Front rise: 30 cm / 11.8" Back rise: 44 cm / 15.75" Thighs: 33 cm / 13" Knee: 25.5 cm / 10" Leg opening: 23.5 cm / 9.25" Inseam: 84 cm / 33" Dearskin leather patch Rather thin belt loops Based on the VAT being 5%, this pair has to be before 2014 (and after 1997)

New watch alert. The MB&F M.A.D.2, the only model I will ever be able to get from this brand. It’s very, very cool…

Ball+Samurai

@harls hard to say about stretch because I always have to order 1-2 size bigger to accommodate thighs. From what I can tell about the fabric, not as stretchy as the 20s or 50s IMO. Regardless, I find the waist on any Jean will always give a little after a couple wears.

@harls My 30’s

1109xx Probably had these about 10yrs. Only ever worn in sporadic bursts, then shelved for a bit, then dusted off & brought back out... etc etc. I change the cuff size all the time too, never settled on the right length, but whatever, it just adds to the charm of them.

The DHL gods were good to me this week. Apple’s built in translation app has been actually pretty good with converting War Denim into English.