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In August 2021, I put a pair of Roy Peanut Pants on ice as they fit too relaxed for my liking. Some of you might remember I debated between selling them or even sending them off to experts like Indigo Proof for significant alterations. At the time, virtually all of you said to move them along or keep but leave them as is. Even Rain advised that recreating some details in the same exact manner that Roy did, might not be possible. Turns out that all of you are right. I went away for 3 years and put on 5 kilograms with food and drink, and now they fit me a little better. Still, they're long in the rise and can slip down during the day and look dumpy in the crotch and butt, but I'm much, much happier with this fit, and have a refreshed appreciation for Roy's work. It is a shame to not have a piece from Roy, but it is an even greater shame to have owned, but never actually tried, something from Roy. With that I'm gonna dump a bunch of photos here. Nothing unexpected for most folk, but I hope it does show why this hobby continues to fascinate us. Front and back photos demonstrate the rather full "relax-tapered" cut, show a glimpse of the internal cloth Peanuts®️ patch, the rounded back pockets and a vintage-looking Big Bro cloth patch with green lettering. That coin pocket is shaped exactly like the back pockets, and it is very deep and wide for an accessory pocket. The back pocket rivets are exposed but done in a manner that it does not scratch furniture. This is a 31" inseam, and combined with the very high rise (these should sit at the navel for me, and even a little above, if I were being honest about being a Super Short King) means I need quite a big double cuff to keep them like high-waters, which is how I prefer my looser jeans to sit. Right away, you might notice the fabric does have a myriad of shades and quite interesting texture. These are very sparingly worn and they are already crinkling in many parts, especially near the front pocket openings and the waistband. The roping at the hems is impeccable. Roy uses all silver buttons for this release. Despite the long rise and rather long fly placard, it only has a total of 4 buttons. I wish it had 5, but who am I to question Roy about his work? A closeup of the narrow, raised and tucked belt loops along with the kind of rivets Roy chose for this release. Check out that tightly sewn bartack for the belt loop, done in a different shade of indigo. Another closeup showing the rivets and one of the exposed corners of the coin pocket. Notice the all-white stitching used for this release. I've seen photos of some pairs of Peanut pants with a different comic strip, but here's the one that came with mine. I'm a little sad thinking the patch will probably wear off to white (or just simply tear eventually) at the top where it sits on the waistband. The shell stitching detail that loads of people love about Roy jeans. Those rivet backs look like brass. Another well-loved detail, Roy's embroidered name and size tag on the back of the front pocket bag. From what I've read, these pocket bags are cut and sewn from an unsanforized canvas material. I'm just a simpleton, so I'll tell you that these heavy duty pocket bags are extremely reassuring to have in daily use. I am positive they will put up with a lot of abuse and still feel comfortable against the thigh. There's two kinds of Rivet backs here. The ones on the fly are one, and the rest are another kind. Now this. I get very excited when I talk about this...excited as a child in a candy store. I tried hard to show it here but it isn't clear. That back pocket patch has a plumpness to it that makes it obviously sit proud to the back pocket. It appears to be sewn in a manner that would become plump as the unsanforized denim around it shrinks with washing.Yet the stitching does not cause the denim to crinkle or appear untidy. Both the back pockets and the coin pocket are entirely lined with the same off-white unsanforized canvas fabric that's used for the front pocket bags. The canvas fabric was chosen, and sewn in a manner that it shrinks with the outer denim, perhaps shrinking at almost the same rate, so that neither the denim nor the canvas forms ripples. I put my hand in those pockets and the inner canvas lies unbelievably flat against the denim. The details really do matter. Selvedge line and Roy's own pink thread being used in his very own black seed denim co-developed with the famed Cone factory. That same thread that's used for the belt loop bartacks shows itself again here. A closeup of the fabric. This is at the outseam of one leg, Don't quote me on this, but I wouldn't be surprised if the selvedge line weave and texture was done in such a manner that it would produce more pronounced train tracks with use. Again you can see this is a really sparingly used pair and we are already getting some bulging of the outside of fabric in the area. The warp threads feel quite plump and that contributes to the texture. There really isn't any pronounced slub or nep, but a constrained level of hairiness is present. Another close up of the fabric, the chainstitch at the hem and the roping. Couple of fit pics, which I put up because they're surely mandatory if I were to claim that they fit better. Notice the leg twist in equal amounts in both legs. On my frame, they are still very relaxed in the thigh with some hip flare. They generally look more flattering when worn higher at the navel but they don't always stay at that level unless I pull them up occasionally during the day. Pardon the unfashionable T-shirt hike up in the back photo, I did that just to give an idea of how those back pockets sit and what the back pocket patch actually looks like on the body. Anyway, that's enough indulgence I'll allow myself for one day, and more than enough to bore most of you. But for sure, Roy jeans are good.

MF/Drake's/MF/FC/Sebago

Early 1960s paper tag 2002XX. First time ever wearing a denim jacket. I have mixed feelings so far but just not used to it I guess. This was purchased unwashed from Cultizm on Monday night. In my hands in the middle of nowhere California on Thursday, washed and now it’s dry Thoughts on fit? It feels good so far, but I have very wide hips so knew I’d likely never be able to do anymore than a couple of buttons up…

Buzz Rickson Uniqlo jumper Warehouse 1001XX 25th Anniversary John Lofgren M43

TCB jacket, Tender sweater, SDA pants, golden retriever.

Mended the cuffs on my Lee cowboy jacket. Dirty job, needed to get donen papa nui, Lee, fullcount, vans

I wish I could see the balance sheet of a company like Russell. On the one hand, I could believe that a good pair of boots costs $800 to make sure Russell stays sustainable, but is not being greedy. But I’d want to know what sort of lifestyle that affords the cobbler and other employees - and not the few at the top. I know that I have more shoes than I need, and probably more shoes than most people had historically. With the exception of training shoes, I quite possibly could not wear out my current collection if I never bought another pair - especially if I can resole. All told in terms of retail expenditure, my shoes and boots equal at least a few pairs of Russels. (I’d wager I’m not alone here in that). I think it’s also worth mentioning that the weak Yen has definitely spoiled me - to the point that I’m aware that my appreciation for even the best goods goes down, and I have too much. I enjoy everything I’ve got and try to give it all fair use in the spirit it was made, but it’s more than needed - much, much more. If I had my druthers better, I’d own less stuff and want the makers of what I have to be able to live a little bit closer to the life I get to live, even as my own industry suffers extreme downward pressure from multiple forces. This isn’t to excuse price gouging - I don’t know enough to know where it’s happening - but it’s just to note that I do feel that even in our world of well made, small batch goods that carries an ethos of extended and prolific use - we are still awash in stuff. Or at least some of us are - and so where does the sense of fair value come from? When I first started taking an interest in clothes I bought more MiUSA things, which at that point were more comparable in cost to Japanese goods. Somewhere along the way it became less important - probably as the Yen weakened and I became more interested in arcane details I couldn’t find here. At that point, the relative cost (for American or Japanese) was also much higher - I had less income and the prices were stiff even before inflation. Even as I find some of the older items more lacking now because of my own knowledge and preferences deepening, they were appreciated in a different way. And so through that lens, $800 boots that are handmade and part of the local economy may indeed not be so far off, and may represent a fair value (they may not if the CEO of Russell is taking home $100 to every dollar the cobbler takes). Not that I don’t see why it’s an issue. I can’t get my head around ever spending that much on boots (my max ever was around $375, and I just don’t like them enough). But, I sure could see a world where for a good pair, instead I had to outlay the same as I did for a few pairs in my closet (that add up to $800) and live with that limitation. How’s that for some ambivalence?

Great Lakes x2 / Hollows / Cane’s / Frank’s

If we don’t know what an item entails, is it fair to say that item is expensive? I totally understand something might be unaffordable but that’s really not the same thing. What about trying to break the thing down and examine the value?

Yeah, super fast any time I've ordered from them. For sure looks better, ha. Dunno why I didn't try that first. I did have to cuff the sleeve as these are pretty long and my arms are pretty short. Having never worn a denim jacket, I'm surprised at how much give these pleats have on the chest. Much more freedom of movement than I anticipated, honestly.

Injection moulded plastic frames are probably best avoided if possible - you’ll be better served with acetate (or metal depending on style). Barrel hinges are strong - more barrels (generally) means more strength … 5 and 7 barrels are now fairly common. I guess though you’ve got to identify how you use your glasses … eg do you take them off and put them on often or leave them for long periods, handling can cause them to warp and or weaken; do you use them for work (what’s the environment); do you use them for sport etc I had some Dita frames for about 10 years and my current Jacques Marie Mage frames are about 8 years old - all had lenses swapped as my prescription changed … no significant issues with any other than clumsiness

My uncle was at a Dawson Denim launch party for Graham Marsh and Tony Nourmand's new book yesterday which alerted me to its presence: 'Denim: The Fabric That Built America 1935-1944'. Immediately pre-ordered after he told me about it. Thought it'd be of interest: https://www.reelartpress.com/catalog/edition/245/denim

129’s (woad) after another wash - these are a size 2. Again close ups are more accurate colors. Repairs have all just been seam reinforcement/overstitching aside from the hand stitched button hole reinforcement with the only thread I had around at that moment (contrast stitching!) - and no shortage of those but still simple enough. Crotch darning is imminent, but this is definitely the toughest denim I’ve put this much wear into - a relatively slim fit and probably over 18 months (and maybe closer to 2 years) of real wear and it’s still intact, which is probably a record. Eventually I’d love to beat up a pair of 132’s in a size 2…but so many pairs to get to first.

Agree with the distinction between 'expensive' and 'unaffordable'. I don't have an opinion about whether a shoe is expensive, or 'worth' the sum of its parts. Also think that the value of a shoe, or any clothing, is more than the sum of its components and incorporates its cultural value and emotional durability. My concern in this case is very specific, and it's that the market for mocs has rapidly stratified in a way that an item I've considered a daily use staple and a design classic is now a luxury good and a status symbol. Russell now pitches itself as serving an elite club, paraphrasing recent marketing emails. Maybe that's where the market needed to go for this product to exist, but it's a bummer.

Roughly about 29 years old. Evis lot 2504 xx 18oz denim

DD1003xx ‘46 after another wash. At this point repairs have been done to yoke, crotch, cuffs, pocket stitching. Pocket stitching needs yet another one. For the wear, this amount of repairs are a bit much. Got these in 2020 (?) - probably not more than 15 months total wear. Just a few times a month these days. Color is more accurate in the close ups. I do really like this pair, the denim is still quite stiff and crunchy given the amount of washes now (probably 10?) - the cut still works well for me too. Just wish they felt a bit more robust overall (I’m a broken record on that at this point I get it).

contribootin’ aero tcb sugar cane russell

Freewheelers - WW2 tux (newly hemmed by @Mr Black), Ironalls and sweatshirt / Converse Timeline / @Duke Mantee and Rototo not visible

I am quite familiar with this, should've taken that into consideration when I made my original post. Long story short, Russell make some nice shoes. Do I find them to be worth $700-$800? No, not really.

That's a fair argument, but when something increases in MSRP by ~130% over the course of a few years it just makes me pause. Did every material increase in cost by 100%? If so then they need to rethink their sourcing process. Did workers receive pay raises and / or benefits that account for this cost? If not then I have even more questions about the new price. I guess there's an inherent difference in what is "expensive" and what I see as the personal perceived value.

FIrst thing I thought of was:

Dancing with my boy

Sedgwick bridle, snake, onyx and malachite, nickel plated brass hardware

With Yuketen specifically, this is kind of where I'm at. Because its not just Yuketen, its Monitaly too. Prices of everything manufactured by Meg Co. (Yuk, Monitaly, Epperson Mountaineering, Chamula) have all skyrocketed in price. I used to be acquaintances with Yuki and have met him several times and so like his brands a lot, but nothing with the product has changed other than its country of origin - with Yuketen specifically. So with this umbrella of brands, it feels a little bit like an exclusivity price rather than the product being 'worth' that amount. https://www.monitaly.com/shop-tops/p/native-vest-sarape $506 for a 'native' vest that is simply constructed of a fabric they've purchased from someone else? My Chimayo was I think $180 from Ortega's in actual Chimayo, NM where the fabric was actually woven and manufactured. Agree on the expensive vs perceived value for sure.

Had a pair of moscot ‘s for about 5 yrs. Pretty rough wear, work, workshop(metal, brazing,) cyclingz they hold up great. The lenses were done and wanted something else. now a pair of effector eyewear from Japan. Bought them for the looks. Have them for over a year now, and hold up well They are heavy , the hinges are good.

Yep, I’ve stopped looking at any new / full price Russells They’re great moccasins but not $800 great, and given the coincidence of their recent restructuring it’s very hard to imagine that much of the increase in revenue is going to the workers anyway

Alright, who's going to bite? https://www.wrangler.com/shop/mens-cone-denim-white-oak-selvedge-jean-in-raw-indigo-112364207.html?merchCategory=search https://www.wrangler.com/shop/mens-cone-denim-white-oak-selvedge-jacket-in-raw-indigo-112364205.html?merchCategory=search Also a fan of this, though the reviews hilariously trash the embroidery which is the selling point for me: https://www.wrangler.com/shop/mens-blue-bell-raw-denim-jacket-in-cooper-112359603.html?merchCategory=search

This has become the Full Count Denim Thread Thread.

Added some dark brown Vibram half soles to my 1960s Frye boots.

250% 🤫 Basically it doesn’t take much movement of the baseline to create some heavy duty variations up top … using percentages really (deliberately) fucks things up

I'm still using two pairs of specsavers prescription glasses that l bought in 2004, even have the original cases. Think the deal was buy two pairs for 120 quid, so l got one pair clear and one pair of sunglasses. Quality.

Yup Yuketen is a great example as well, I hardly look at them anymore given the pricing structure. Unfortunate because they're some of my favorite fitting shoes.

Yuketen is much the same. I've owned a handful of pairs over the years and still have a couple of them left. I paid $450 for their Angler back in 2020 and they're now $850. I know times have changed but jeez. That particular shoe isn't even made in Maine anymore, but instead in Italy...

I wish there were alternatives. I really like Town View for simple soft sole mocs, and there’s a few options for Wallabee style joints, but there really doesn’t seem to be anyone else doing a great job of general all-purpose rubber-soled high- and low-tops and everything in between

Tyler the creator

Oh good question. I think when l've tried sewing tabs in to jeans many moons ago (actually twice in all) l ruined the tabs and the og levis pockets in the process so never tried it since. Luckily my Mrs has done a few tab sewing operations and made a better job but they're not perfect. You can always see the join of the thread (alot of that was to do with the thread that was available at the time) I guess that and the fact that l sometimes just don't want a tab, for example l haven't bought any tabbed jeans since my conners several year's ago (2020?) opting for the pre tab 1920s models instead ( the FW1942'S being the exception). But l've stayed away from temptation with the Sugarcane stuff as l don't have any real disposable income atm and don't want mentally to start investing in yet more repro denim (let alone customisation) as l have enough atm if not more than enough jeans. I have 12 pairs l wear regularly which, apart from one pair, all have arcs. And all my post 1936 repros have tabs. Then l have the 42's on ice. Plus l don't wear jeans as often as I used to so .. I guess there isn't a mental block but more of a liberating sensation when my nerdy denim ocd is sated, which it is atm . And also because l was able to say No to more denim and avoided the rabbit holes. So feeling good with what l have and less consumerist. Plus if l'm gonna put down 250-300 quid plus on a pair of Levi's 501XX repros, l want the tab and arcs included in the price. So basically l'm a fussy bugger who's who's got enough jeans who is also a denim snob 🤫

I’ve had my Tender shades (w/ prescription lenses in them) for around 4–5 years and they’re still good as new

Here’s my other pair of 3005, my main jeans at the moment. I think these have been worn about ten months. Washed three times.

I'm quite happy with my Julius Tart Opticas. Also Harman Optical. Tart Optical Arnel are also very nice.

@willi this is probably not helpful as I believe they're only UK based, but after years of buying and wearing out cheap crap frames I bought some glasses from Cubitts, they're hefty, stylish and feel like they will last a long time - I've had them coming up for a year now and no complaints at all - even with children constantly stealing them from my face and being not so delicate with them, and working out and running in them, drenching them thoroughly with sweat. They offer a free service after a year too which I'm looking forward to, just for a deep clean and to tighten up the temples now I've worn them in properly. I have it on good faith that Moscot NYC are as good as this, and also Cutler and Gross, which are UK based but have an NYC store. Sorry if none of that is useful.

Lovely pic of the earliest readable vintage Levis 506 jacket patch. It's a clearer image from the unwashed 1927 first pocket flapped 506xx that l posted some pages back. It is rare insomuch as it has Copper Riveted and 'Size' 36 meaning it was used exclusively for jackets. This label is thought to be used until c.1936 when levis started to use the same Two horse patch that was used on 501's at the time to use on jackets also, which is what we're usually used to seeing on a 506.

Only car i've owned which could be considered 'the latter day equivalent' would be my old 1954 Series 1 Landy, alas, I can't find a photo (i can sense @Dr_Heech disappointment from here) but even that was 8" narrower than the current Mini Seen here poking into shot in front of my old V-Dub I used to sub-let a council garage under a block of flats for £5/mth so i would garage the bug over the winter and use the Landy for chucking MTBs / BMXs and friends in the back, the bikes would be covered in mud but i could just hose it down.. come the spring, i would swap the Landy for the Bug and hit the festivals... then i became a responsible adult and bought a house I sold the Series 1 for £1200, it'd be worth £30k nowadays.. much like the Volvo, i bought them used, they only traveled a few 100 miles/yr and i sold them used so their carbon footprint was negligible.

celebrated my birthday early (not until the 16th) hiked six miles around Mount Rainier in Washington

My very small and humble Evisu jeans collection. And my beloved No. 1 Specials from 15 years ago. See you guys next year.

Found this odd pair of Evis 2501. Bull patch, red line, but no crotch rivet or coin pocket rivets. A bit WWII-esque. Never seen it before.

Being one of the judges is in the pizza pants contest, I took on a side hustle as a pizza baker. My friends made a pizza oven on a bike and go around to party’s and events. I sometimes help them

Baja Shirt arrived. It's exactly what I wanted it to be.

#41) Brass Buttons Jeans arrived in mail today. Crispy, imperceptibly worn, the pink Roy lettering is a nice touch (not sure that was ever on a production run pair.)