Tender Co. Denim

[Toegun]

Here are my pair in standard denim 

 

and me jacket 

[rodeo bill]

^that 132X fit is lovely @Toegun! @MJF9 thank you and I'm really pleased you're enjoying them, seconded for a fit pic!

[sven]

So impressed by your work @rodeo bill.

I only recently found out about Tender, but the craftsmanship and the originality of the designs is so impressive that is has become my favorite brand. Can’t wait to own a piece and love it for a long time.

Torn between the 132 and the 136 cuts. How do they compare?

[MJF9]

@Toegun them there jeans look great - fit and level of fadedness are spot on.  Plus the subtle evolution of your jacket is sweet.

Will sort fit pics soon gents.  Mine are a slimmer looking fit and, after a cold wash and only a day in, are softening up nicely...

[rodeo bill]

14 hours ago, sven said:

So impressed by your work @rodeo bill.

I only recently found out about Tender, but the craftsmanship and the originality of the designs is so impressive that is has become my favorite brand. Can’t wait to own a piece and love it for a long time.

Torn between the 132 and the 136 cuts. How do they compare?

Thank you so much for this, Sven! I'm really pleased you like the look of my things.

132 was the first Tender jeans fit, and is relatively wide and pretty straight, but depending on how you size it doesn't wear as wide as you might expect, more of a workwear sort of shape. 136s are similar to 132s at the top (fairly roomy without being baggy, mid/high rise) but are considerably wider through the leg to the hem- they're definitely a wide legged style, and as wide as I'd go before they start to look silly- they're still very wearable.

I generally prefer looser jeans (personally), so even type 129 'slim' jeans aren't skinny by many standards. On that basis 132 is the standard Tender model and 136 is the wide leg. They both have a very nice vintage feeling, I think, without specifically referencing particular periods or brands.

That was a bit of a ramble! but I hope it makes sense. Please feel free to email me if you'd like full measurements for any specific sizes.

[redragon]

^

Still waiting for you to remake type 131, the baggy fit is definitely not for everyone but its one of the comfiest cut I had ever worn.

[sven]

12 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

Thank you so much for this, Sven! I'm really pleased you like the look of my things.

132 was the first Tender jeans fit, and is relatively wide and pretty straight, but depending on how you size it doesn't wear as wide as you might expect, more of a workwear sort of shape. 136s are similar to 132s at the top (fairly roomy without being baggy, mid/high rise) but are considerably wider through the leg to the hem- they're definitely a wide legged style, and as wide as I'd go before they start to look silly- they're still very wearable.

I generally prefer looser jeans (personally), so even type 129 'slim' jeans aren't skinny by many standards. On that basis 132 is the standard Tender model and 136 is the wide leg. They both have a very nice vintage feeling, I think, without specifically referencing particular periods or brands.

That was a bit of a ramble! but I hope it makes sense. Please feel free to email me if you'd like full measurements for any specific sizes.

Thanks for the reply @rodeo bill Appreciate all the info! I've been going through this thread from page 1 and it's a lot of fun to see the evolution of everything.
Both cuts look lovely IMO. 132 looks slimmer below the knee than the TCB 50's (sz 36) I currently live in. So they might be a nice change once the 50's are done.
On the other hand, I stumbled across these pictures of Douglas from Second Sunrise wearing the 136 and they certainly look amazing. 

I'll send you an email for some measurements. Thanks.
 

Edited October 11, 2021 by sven

[JDelage]

@rodeo bill - How do the new 125 jeans compare to the 132? Thanks.

[Broark]

Also interested in the 125 cut, the walnut denim looks nice.

[rodeo bill]

On 10/11/2021 at 1:28 PM, redragon said:

^

Still waiting for you to remake type 131, the baggy fit is definitely not for everyone but its one of the comfiest cut I had ever worn.

I get asked about Type 131 every now and again- it's developed something of a (to put it very mildly) niche, following. I think I made 10 pairs for Burg & Schild in Berlin, in 2011. The only problem is I never made a pattern for them, they were just a freehand addition to the 130 pattern (if I remember correctly), drawn directly onto the fabric before it was cut. Someday I'll look through old emails (it doesn't help that I've switched my email service since then) and see if I can work out exactly what shape they were. 

On 10/11/2021 at 9:02 PM, sven said:

I stumbled across these pictures of Douglas from Second Sunrise wearing the 136

Thanks for the link Sven- Douglas really gets beautiful wear into his jeans, I hadn't seen these since they were new!

@JDelage and @Broark many thanks for this. I was planning to put up some photos here, anyway. So for starters, here are my own 125s after a couple of months and several washes:

There's a nice amount of leg twist, but I'm also really taken with the twist in the top block- you see it more clearly in this worn photo:

The measurements for 125 aren't dramatically different to 130 or 132- the waist is around 1/2" higher in front and 3/4" higher in the back, and the hem is somewhere between 130 and 132 with a similar thigh and straighter leg than 130, a bit narrower than 132. Most of the difference is in the shape of the top, which is cut straighter than 130 or 132. If you imagine the fabric was striped, you'd see the stripes converge on the fly more on 130 or 132, while they'd be more parallel across the fly on 125, if that makes sense? It's not too dramatic of a cut, and I'm really enjoying wearing mine. These are a size 4, which is my size in all the Tender jeans I wear, and I'm around a 35" measured waist.

[Maynard Friedman]

You’re looking trim there @rodeo bill!

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@rodeo bill that is a great looking cut. That marbling is wild! 

[rodeo bill]

31 minutes ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

@rodeo bill that is a great looking cut. That marbling is wild! 

thank you, and yes! this denim marbles really beautifully- it's a very very dark indigo to start with, almost looks black, with 25 dips in indigo, and it marbles really nicely, especially if you wash a few times from raw without too much wear in between.

[MJF9]

3 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

this denim marbles really beautifully

Crazy marbling indeed… have you changed denim William?

[rodeo bill]

38 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Crazy marbling indeed… have you changed denim William?

nope, exactly the same as always- developed in 2009 and remade every couple of years since then!

[redragon]

17 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

I get asked about Type 131 every now and again- it's developed something of a (to put it very mildly) niche, following. I think I made 10 pairs for Burg & Schild in Berlin, in 2011. The only problem is I never made a pattern for them, they were just a freehand addition to the 130 pattern (if I remember correctly), drawn directly onto the fabric before it was cut. Someday I'll look through old emails (it doesn't help that I've switched my email service since then) and see if I can work out exactly what shape they were. 

That sounds even more amazing though, hand drawing each one...every pair must be a little different from the previous ones.

I hope you will do a re-run if possible, I enjoyed wearing it very much.

[MJF9]

@redragon do you have any old 131 pics by any chance?

[redragon]

On 4/22/2020 at 7:06 PM, redragon said:

At last, got the jeans back from @rodeo bill

A month in transit is pretty good considering current situation, not-exactly state of the art mailing system here & the usual custom fiasco.

Detail shots of the repairs:

Overall, quite pleased with the repair job. Some wonky stitches here & there but does not affect the strength of it.

definitely wearing this soon!

^

Here you go,

I had since wear it a couple of times, patched up all the cuff holes.

can take a picture of it's recent state if you like.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@redragon a fit pic would be cool - I'm personally just most curious about the cut. 

[MJF9]

@redragon ah I remember them but didn't know they were 131s... awesome work... thank you

[srudy]

Found this 900 beauty on Grailed and picked it up for a steal. I’m hoping even though it’s a 4, it’ll still look cool and not too oversized, although that might not be a bad thing either. 

[JDelage]

Is that a black version?

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

not my jacket but looks like the same one I own which is the Old North one - it's the 19 oz crossweave w indian black overdye. It also looks like the image is a bit underexposed as it's not really that dark, or at least mine's not. 

[srudy]

Yep! The Old North one!

[JDelage]

That was a really nice release. Good catch!

[MJF9]

Tender uniform… 132X jeans washed once and 743 pullover straight outta the bag, both with less than a day of wear… 900 jacket worn a little but not washed yet

Some bits looking bluer than blue! Have since washed both to reduce indigo transfer and smurfism

Went with the size 3 in the 132Xs for a beltless option… great thigh space... the moderate rise will need adjusting to given I otherwise wear higher rises

Will probably hem them when they’ve settled down and I've worked them out... shway shway!

Edited October 16, 2021 by MJF9

[JDelage]

I've been wearing something very similar all week long. The indigo is still very dark on my 743. That sweater is a serious piece of clothing. It's pretty hefty for a cotton sweater. I have found that I need to use the dryer at least part of the way otherwise I struggle to dry it properly by simply hanging it.

I'd love another run of the sweaters / cardigans in a non twisting version. Maybe a v-neck or henley neck...

[Jurassic]

^^ great fit @MJF9. When you get a chance could you post waist and thigh measurements for your size 3.

very interested in these

thanks in advance

 

  

 

[MJF9]

@Jurassic thanks and great avatar btw!  

All in cm
Waist 43.5
FR 31
BR 40.5
Thigh at crotch 36
Got them cuffed to length 78 with a chunky cuff of 22

Edited October 16, 2021 by MJF9

[rodeo bill]

On 10/15/2021 at 4:58 PM, srudy said:

Found this 900 beauty on Grailed and picked it up for a steal. I’m hoping even though it’s a 4, it’ll still look cool and not too oversized, although that might not be a bad thing either. 

 

On 10/15/2021 at 7:03 PM, JDelage said:

Is that a black version?

 

On 10/15/2021 at 7:49 PM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

not my jacket but looks like the same one I own which is the Old North one - it's the 19 oz crossweave w indian black overdye. It also looks like the image is a bit underexposed as it's not really that dark, or at least mine's not. 

 

On 10/15/2021 at 8:40 PM, srudy said:

Yep! The Old North one!

Nice find @srudy! It is a black one, but not the Old North special I don't think (which was Cross Weave denim, Indian Black, and indeed not this dark). I'm pretty sure from the photo that this is from 2011 and is regular selvage denim, dyed with logwood. It came with a natural black sheep's wool liner, which doesn't seem to be in this photo. I don't have any very good photos of this one, but here are a couple that I dug out:

This one was dyed hot so shrank quite a bit more than the woad version- with luck the sizing should be ok. Let us know when you receive it!