Jump to content
supertalk6
braille_teeth

Tender Co. Denim

Recommended Posts

Stumbled across this post introducing (?) denim from a UK brand called Tender. If half the things they say on their website are true, this is the most obsessively small-scale thing I've heard of short of hand-weaving the fabric. They hand-dye the fiber, hand-cast all the hardware, hand-tan the leather in tan oak juice, etc. etc.

Has anybody seen a pair of these in the wild yet? They have a guidebook which is password protected. I hate being tantalized.

Eh?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This guy uses 16oz unsanforized Japanese denim with unbleached cotton and hand dyes in natural indigo from woad. The first collection is due out this Autumn/Winter.

Checkout Five's blog (http://five-secondskin.blogspot.com/search/label/TENDER%20CO). He posted the guidebook on his blog. I really like that jacket.

Edit: can't get the link to work right. You can click on "Tender Co." under category

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I remember this brand being brought up and i remember being annoyed as hell about the lack of content on his website.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Really great to see my new project come up here- I'm delighted you're interested! I started Tender last summer with a few weeks in Kojima learning hand indigo-dyeing Japan-style, before bringing it all back home to the uk, and the first season (A/W10) is now in production, due for delivery to some really nice stores around June.

Sorry there's not more info up on the site yet, the A/W10 guidebook will have the password taken off in the next few weeks. In the mean time you guys can open it with the username 'visitor' and the password 'isambard'.

If people are interested I can post some (worn-in) pics here, as well as some making photos, as things develop. Right now I'm finishing up the prototype samples for the second season at home, then in a few weeks I'll be off to Norfolk to help with the indigo dyeing of the first collection production.

Let me know if people need more information, I'll try and answer things as best I can...

4517787956_f451c48636.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, rodeo bill, EXTREMELY interested in any pics and info you want to post. That jacket (and everything else, especially the production process) looks GREAT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not even a question if we're interested or not! Please post more about the brand, photos of the whole process etc.!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's awesome to see another player come into the picture, and by the descriptions the denim will be great quality. yes, post some wear and manufacturing photos!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

Posted a quick review of Tender on my blog

http://amerkaji-meme.blogspot.com/

Mostly about the fabric, includes a few close ups of the Denim Tender uses both Raw and after the Over-dye.

I hope to do a follow up too, the belts look great too!

Viv

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah - the finished denim is lovely - slightly turquoise, very dark with a nice tight weave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the lack of updates. Things are going to be a bit slow until TENDER starts to arrive in shops in the next couple of months.

Anyway, yesterday I went up to Leicester to collect my jeans and jackets, and check throughall the details. Left from St Pancras with 2 big empty suitcases and a couple of rolls of fabric for new samples:

4570095287_32f6ca23b9_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me introduce Natu, the guy who's making TENDER's jeans and jackets. Natu was born in Tanzania, where his father was a bespoke tailor, making safari suits for diplomats. Natu and his wife, Sarla, came to England in the 70s and initially worked as tailors. They opened their little factory in the late 80s, and specialize in making small runs of difficult stuff that other producers can't handle.

4570179777_b4b8bd2e47.jpg

Everything's cut by hand, and it's just the two of them in the factory (sometimes helped by their son, Vishal).

Here's Sarla turning out a pocket bag:

4570828882_286246f752.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4570202645_a15bf24ff2.jpg

First the pattern is chalked out on the fabric. Because TENDER's denim is unsanforized (and shrinks about 15% during the dyeing process) the consumption's really high- around 4m. It's also quite tight getting the pieces out across the narrow width of the fabric. I made my patterns at home, but then I got some help from Kojima master-pattern-makers when I was in Japan last summer.

Then the pieces are cut out. You can see Sarla working on the other end of the lay, behind Natu

4570202957_4a67503f64.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first operation in to sew the yoke to the back leg, on a run-and-fell chainstitch machine. Normally you'd put pockets onto the leg before attaching the yoke, but I cut the yoke low, with more shape in it than a standard 5-pocket, to give more fullness to the seat where it's needed, so the pocket sits partly across the yoke, and has to be sewn on afterwards.

4570839878_847a963773.jpg

TENDER's jeans and jackets are sewn with 100% cotton 'Eagley' thread, spun in Manchester. For the samples we used this soft white thread, but in production Natu managed to find a heavier-weight, unbleached thread.

4570840458_dee14b9498.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The hip pockets are fully lined with a heavy selvage calico (woven in Lancashire). The lining's cut on the bias to stop it bunching up inside the pocket after the outside fabric's shrunk. This will also help it adapt to the shape of whatever is worn in the pocket.

4570872686_b59d27e828.jpg

Because this production is really small, there aren't any folders or jigs, and everything has to be individually cut and pressed by hand

4570237201_9d73cc0f28.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cant wait to see the finished product and the details William :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the washing tab goes on the outside of the yoke, under the waistband at the right hip:

4570236551_408c5a8887.jpg

I didn't want any exterior branding for its own sake, but equally I think it's important that nothing's hidden away. One of the aims with TENDER is that nothing should be apologetic, so if you have to have a care label it should look good, and might as well double as the branding. They're printed on a nice papery acetate ribbon, which can always be cut off by the owner. In production the type number is hand-written, rather than printed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4570306035_fbc0e76a39.jpg

Hip pockets go on with a single stitch, starting under the waistband, doubling back on itself at the pocket corner, and ending up back where it started under the waistband. This is based on the way Levi's match pockets were orginally put on, before the advent of twin-needle machines. Quite a few of the Japanese repro brands still put their match pocket on like this. The hip pocket sticth is asymmetric, so that once both pockets are sewn on you get a '66' (this'll make more sense once I can get shots of the completed jeans up!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The side pocket bags are cut from the main denim, with no facing. The inside bottom of the pocket bag is cut on along the selvage. The pocket mouth is a straight diagonal, rather than the regular scoop shape. The idea with this is that the bias fabric will stretch out to a curve with time, giving a more generous scoop than if they were cut that way. However so that the seam doesn't break and cause a pocket blow-out, a strip of selvage (the toughest part of the cloth) is sewn into the pocket seam.

4570305685_c820cc981f.jpg

4570941852_5ac30d0154.jpg

4570306423_12433892ac.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

THANKS for sharing the process involved. Brilliant and informative posts Bill. waiting for moar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cant wait to see the finished product and the details William :)

thanks! :)

Sorry to be a tease with this, but until the first production's finished and dyed I don't actually have anything to take pictures of... give me a few weeks. In the mean time I'll post up some more manufacturing photos as it all unfolds. Thanks to the people that have pm'd and emailed me too- I really appreciate the support!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the flannel linned SE collab or a pair of tender. I don't know what my next pair should be : /

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the next step is to make up the fly. First Sarla overlocks the buttonhole fly part:

4574817435_572391cbf1.jpg

then Natu puts in the buttonholes. I'm doing a 2-button fly, using a nice Japanese repro of an early Levi's fly button. Having experimented with positioning I found that you can quite easily get away with just 2 buttons, and I've seen it on early overalls, where it would make them easier to get on and off, and also presumably save on buttons. I like the overalls feel of it.

4575451256_4b3b3e0b15.jpg

then the fly is sewn onto the front panel

4574818511_8d7fd7a740.jpg

and the 2 front panels are sewn together in a single-stitch case seam

4574819037_b050372bb3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By dianahenrystuff
      When we are talking about plus size clothes there are always a question about what to wear that looks cool and good, i like to suggest women denim shirts for plus size women's. Try to wear dress denim shirts it like loose fitted shirts that never goes wrong. here are some best options Denim Vintage Shirt, Fit Bleached Denim Shirt, Dark Wash Denim Shirt and more these type of shades easily added with any accessories and footwear.
      Just share you own experience,which shade of denim shirts you like from which house?

    • By mlyngard


      View Advert Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit 15.7oz 34w / 30ins
      Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit. From Standard & Strange. These are the one-rinse version, so all shrinkage is done. New condition, never worn. If you know this brand, you know this is some of the best denim out there.
      Tagged size 34. Hemmed at S&S to ~30" inseam. Actual measurements: w: ~34.5, f.r: 11.25", hem: 7.25" across. Retail price at S&S is $265
      Please see linked Standard & Strange sizing chart and model info for more details. PalPal preferred please. I can accept money orders and checks but they would need to clear. Will ship national US or International via US Postal Service Priority. Shipping free.
      Advertiser mlyngard Date 10/03/2017 Price $175.00 Category denim  
    • By mlyngard
      Momotaro 0405-V Hi-Tapered fit. From Standard & Strange. These are the one-rinse version, so all shrinkage is done. New condition, never worn. If you know this brand, you know this is some of the best denim out there.
      Tagged size 34. Hemmed at S&S to ~30" inseam. Actual measurements: w: ~34.5, f.r: 11.25", hem: 7.25" across. Retail price at S&S is $265
      Please see linked Standard & Strange sizing chart and model info for more details. PalPal preferred please. I can accept money orders and checks but they would need to clear. Will ship national US or International via US Postal Service Priority. Shipping free.
    • By ole
      Hey there,
       
      It's been a while since I've posted last but I received a press release from Denim Days New York. You can find them @denimdaysfestival on instagram. 
       
      They're holding their festival this weekend (Sept. 29- Oct. 1) and will have a lot of different types of presentations from indigo dying to jean repair. Blue In Green will also be in attendance.
       
      If you're in the area and want to check it out go to http://denim-days.com/ny/tickets/
       
      See attached for more info.
      pressrelease_NYDD_1[3].pdf
    • By Saisen


      View Advert Neighborhood Rigid . Narrow / 14Oz-Pt Black and Indigo PACK 
      Neighborhood Rigid . Narrow / 14Oz-Pt Black and Indigo PACK 
      Brand new / Unworn with Tags 
      Size LARGE (~ 33/34 waist, Slim Straight Fit) 
      Price = $350 AUD / 265 USD
      Shipping & Fees = $90 AUD / 70 USD (or just PM me to save on fees)
      TOTAL = $440 AUD / 335 USD

      - Item is located in AUSTRALIA. 
      - Can be declared at lower value for customs purposes at buyers request. 
      A consistent best seller and favorite is the NEIGHBORHOOD Rigid Denim. The Rigid denim is non-seasonal and is offered in a variety of different cuts in either Rigid Indigo or Rigid Black. Made with 14 oz Japanese Selvedge Denim over time these will characteristically fade to each individuals body providing a unique canvas. The 5 pocket narrow fit is a straight denim cut to be more fitted. NEIGHBORHOOD blue stitched back pockets and red selvedge out-seam provide a little hit of detailing to an otherwise clean and basic denim.
      100% Cotton 14oz Rigid Japanese Selvedge Denim 
      Zip Fly with Neighborhood Technical Apparel Tape Detail 
      Narrow Straight Fit 
      Hand Finished 
      Hidden Selvedge Detail inside Watch Pocket 
      Stitched N Rear Pocket Detail 
      Leather Waist Patch 
      Made in Japan
      Advertiser Saisen Date 09/22/2017 Price $335.00 Category denim