raWorkshop

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113,475 even more likeable than before

About raWorkshop

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  • location:
    Austin, TX
  1. Took a couple shots for r/rawdenim http://imgur.com/a/cS4LB
  2. Pull it apart (there's only 3 moving parts inside), strip and regrease everything, see if the cork needs to be replaced. Look for a smaller pulley too.
  3. There are only a few base models of servo motor which are then sold under different labels. These "tube" style ones have a poor reputation for failure. I have several of the slightly boxier style (pictured here - http://tolindsewmach.com/motors.html they sell those motors for a great price too, $115 IIRC), they all work great. Speed problems are only an issue on poorly set up and ill maintained clutch motors though. I just bought a needle feed machine with a brand new clutch motor that gives stitch per stitch control. Don't be afraid to take apart clutch motors and swap out pulleys, there's only 4 moving parts, only 2 parts to replace really. Just an option.
  4. I can't stand the new hardboiled hipster on an open pipe harley trend that's taken over Austin. Barhopping on the east side with baffeless 2-strokes wasn't enough, had to go open pipe v-twin bro? Whatever.
  5. Don't get lonely, I'll be getting a subscription to this thread in February, too busy setting up shop ATM.
  6. I have a 43200G in my studio and will be doing hems starting in January, PM for details. Ft. Lonesome Kathie is stopping by this afternoon to pick up a overlocker, I'll try to get her to sign up here.
  7. Everyone should check out Kathie Severs from Fort Lonesome here in Austin. She runs 4 (I think) or so single thread chainstitchers and her work is crazy good. Machines mounted on custom walnut tables. http://instagram.com/ftlonesome http://fort-lonesome.myshopify.com/pages/past-work
  8. Repaired some major cycling damage and liberated a stow away tag for a friend. Samurai 0500XX
  9. Higher stitch count leads to a stronger seam but a 401 chainstitch is stronger than a 301 lockstitch by 10-12% There's virtually no difference for apparel but many industrial applications will use a chainstitch for the better strength and elasticity. So things like irrigation tarps or 12 ft inflatable sewer plugs use chainstitch (lack of a bobbin to change is probably a bigger driving factor than strength). Look at this document from American & Efird re: stitch type and stitches per inch - http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Selecting-the-right-SPI-2-5-10.pdf Look at this poor 35800 that was in for service. It made irrigation tarps, terrific use for a chainstitch - A chainstitch with 100% cotton thread will shrink more than equivalent lockstitch because it uses almost twice the thread for the same area, so there's plenty of shrink to happen. That may contribute to a roping effect. It's hard to find a 100% cotton thread that won't compromise the longevity of the garment though. What's more authentic? What is "authentic"? Depends where you're drawing the line in the sand, much of what's regarded as authentic is arbitrary and idiosyncratic to production logic and available technology. Clothes used to be sewn by hand out of scraps and furs, depends what you call the good old days. I'm biased towards chainstitching, I just retimed a 43200G tonight. Old school oscillating lock stitch machines are amazing but Union Special has them beat by miles in terms of character and joy of use. Smaller leg openings are much more difficult to wrangle into the breakaway folder because 43200G is not a true off the arm or cylinder bed. This was corrected with the much faster, much more boring 639000 lockstitch hemmer.
  10. Hammer the seams with a rubber mallet to flatten them out first, just like the yokes at the seat seam.
  11. Wallet on the right has lived a hard 2 years of farming.
  12. Sorry to pull from my instagram account but I wanted to show the progress on the prototype long wallet vs a new version.
  13. The first pair of selvedge that I made. Five years in, 30+ patches, can't ride my bike with them on but can't let go. My sewing has improved these days but nothing could replace these.
  14. Caught up with a wallet I gifted to my friend the other day. [ Mid Wallet by PaleoDenim Added a reign loop halfway in. Untitled by PaleoDenim
  15. Awesome. I think I know which buttonhole machine you're talking about, what a monster. I'll be visiting Peter to get some more machines in the next few months, let's grab a beer.