Tender Co. Denim

[rodeo bill]

just got a very nice card in the post from liza corsillo, the sister of the brothers corsillo, owners of the hill-side, and hickorees. here's the new hickoree's poster, with a tender wire buckle belt (escherized, I notice), illustrated by liza. she's really great, and does some cool drawings. worth a look!

[Quoise1203]

Hickorees is such a great and interesting store. The selection is well curated and the people who work there have been so helpful every time I've gone in.

[Youthxattak]

Im interested in this new escherized belt concept. Can't wait to see production pics. Haha

Without looking at my older one.. I actually can't tell a huge difference in the new poster and the few I've received before.. Regardless, the product illustrations are fun.. Not to mention the sweet red hickorees pencil you always get!!!!

[rodeo bill]

i'm in tokyo this week, showing tender & sleeper aw13 to shops. among many other things, it's really nice seeing people with some of their own tender garments. here are some jackets:

navy wool guards jacket (special for superdenim):

black sheep guard's jacket:

black logwood dyed 900 denim jacket:

yesterday we met up with the owner of nanamica, who stock tender in their daikanyama store (a big honour!). seeing him reminded me that we took a picture together last time I was here, with him wearing a copper verdigris- dyed cambric shortsleeve shirt (sent to shops last week, should start appearing online soon):

[satchelbmoore]

a little update:

my tender collection has grown due to some sales and a middle of the night trestle shop scoop:

4 bandanas: 3 chris brown and a wattle dyed bandana.

2 pairs of socks: solid and comfy cool colors. the purple logwood ones i've had a few months are awesome.

boot cream: haven't used yet.

railroad sweater: awesome fit great hand. pilly but in the best way.

and flattened black spectacles. man.

all so dope and exceed expectations. pictures when i get a moment.

i've also been lucky enough to spend some time with the fall 2013 order form and lookbook....dangerous indeed. everybody buy your stuff from BlackBlue so i can justify 1/10th of what i want.

Edited February 27, 2013 by satchelbmoore

[UkeNo]

Bill,

Logwood black Denim Jacket - where?

Very nice.

[Thor]

so,

looking at the new season s prices the jeans must be riveted in gold and sewn with the down from the inside of virgin s thighs .

the shirts sized for giants and the jackets for hobbits, yep.

[gina_x]

I guess you are referring to the blue 129's on super denim? £330!! – I find that pretty ridiculous.

Tender's sizing: it's a mess, all over the place – even sometimes with-in the same garment.

[grooveholmes]

Good question, and good one for the retailers, too. It'll be interesting to see how other shops price the new items.

I guess you are referring to the blue 129's on super denim? £330!! – I find that pretty ridiculous.

Tender's sizing: it's a mess, all over the place – even sometimes with-in the same garment.

And who are you? You're entitled to your opinion, but it would be nice if you had contributed a little more than a shitty little gripe of a first-post. I've never had issues with sizing the shirts, but I haven't tried every single garment. Maybe you have? I am consistent (4) with all the sweaters, henleys, and tees. Waist size, same deal-- I've got two different cuts from two different seasons. But not all bodies are built the same. Sizing can be a pain with any brand (some of my favorites are EG and Geller), and I wouldn't go so far as to call it a "mess".

[Youthxattak]

Good question, and good one for the retailers, too. It'll be interesting to see how other shops price the new items.

And who are you? You're entitled to your opinion, but it would be nice if you had contributed a little more than a shitty little gripe of a first-post. I've never had issues with sizing the shirts, but I haven't tried every single garment. Maybe you have? I am consistent (4) with all the sweaters, henleys, and tees. Waist size, same deal-- I've got two different cuts from two different seasons. But not all bodies are built the same. Sizing can be a pain with any brand (some of my favorites are EG and Geller), and I wouldn't go so far as to call it a "mess".

Context has already started to put up some new product online and all the prices they have so far look very comparable to prices from prior seasons.

As for the sizing I have had a little issues here and there but I feel like that comes with the territory of a small scale handmade operation like Tender. Shit... Levi's is the largest denim retailer in the world and still cant keep a size right. However because it is done on a smaller scale you have the opportunity of directly communicating with Will himself.. If youre worried about size issues he has helped me in the past and offered solid reasons for why a run may come up big or small.

[satchelbmoore]

thor and gina,

if you read through the 37 pages of this thread, you'd understand the prices and the reasons why a woad size 3 will fit differently than an unborn size 3 etc...

tender isn't for everyone but nothing about it is 'a mess' or over priced. more so than most companies i've come across, william sweats every detail, goes for above and beyond any of our expectations and can justify every decision.

if you need an example of this, look at the front pocket construction of your favorite jeans and then (it'll take a while) turn a pocket of a pair of tender jeans inside out and then think again about pricing and construction.

Edited March 1, 2013 by satchelbmoore

[Ghost Cat]

thor and gina,

if you read through the 37 pages of this thread, you'd understand the prices and the reasons why a woad size 3 will fit differently than an unborn size 3 etc...

tender isn't for everyone but nothing about it is 'a mess' or over priced. more so than most companies i've come across, william sweats every detail, goes for above and beyond any of our expectations and can justify every decision.

if you need an example of this, look at the front pocket construction of your favorite jeans and then (it'll take a while) but turn a pocket of a pair of tender jeans inside out and then think again about pricing and construction.

Seconded. William is one of the few guys in the denim business today willing to challenge the 5-pocket standard. The denim-lined slash pockets in the front, double and triple-stitched seams as appropriate, varying thread types, crotch seam construction, choice of rivets...everything is carefully considered with an eye towards longevity and fade desirability. William also has to deal with economies of scale; the cost of production per jean is much larger than a vast company like Levi's. I know William has said that Tender refers both to the coal car on a train and the role of the jean's owner, but we should add William's own tender, loving attention to detail in each model he designs.

[grooveholmes]

I dunno if I'd call William a champion against "the classic 5-pocket standard", but certainly I appreciate his aesthetic. Personally, I don't like every design of every piece he puts out there-- not all of it "works" for me. But the stuff that does resonate with me, I acquire without reservation. I own three of the belts and think they're absolute tits.

Thor isn't new to Tender, and actually his activity in this thread precedes many sufu members who have shown recent interest in the brand. I very much respect his opinion based on his previous interest in Tender and many of the same brands we follow. IIRC he's actually owned one or more pieces from the earliest collections. The guy knows the shit he likes and for awhile seemed to be selling a lot of it too heh. Anyways, what do you expect from someone whose attitude is described as "cantankerous"?

[jabber]

So, this is my woad 129 after 3 month.

As I said before, cotton stitching is really weak, sadly. I see this issue on every used pair posted here, mainly on 129s (even on 1.5 month old Henry Wongs pair, page 34).

Originally I opted for Tender jeans for HWDC2 but considering this weak chain of construction, I would rather avoid them. I cant imagine stitches will last for two years and I do not really want to restitch myself whole jeans.

Anyway, personally, I will wait for polycotton stitching with my next purchase of Tender jeans.

[Thor]

thor and gina,

if you read through the 37 pages of this thread, you'd understand the prices and the reasons why a woad size 3 will fit differently than an unborn size 3 etc...

tender isn't for everyone but nothing about it is 'a mess' or over priced. more so than most companies i've come across, william sweats every detail, goes for above and beyond any of our expectations and can justify every decision.

if you need an example of this, look at the front pocket construction of your favorite jeans and then (it'll take a while) turn a pocket of a pair of tender jeans inside out and then think again about pricing and construction.

Yeah. Just compared my 130 s to my vanishing west. Both very well made but the Japanese pair shades it .

I love my tender jeans. I am just glad I only had to pay a hundred quid for them.

I have also spent a lot of money on other items only to get burnt. I am thinking of an xxl guards jacket I couldn't fasten.

Bill is ace. But I just can't see his jeans going for over three hundred nicker.

[gina_x]

Good question, and good one for the retailers, too. It'll be interesting to see how other shops price the new items.

And who are you? You're entitled to your opinion, but it would be nice if you had contributed a little more than a shitty little gripe of a first-post. I've never had issues with sizing the shirts, but I haven't tried every single garment. Maybe you have? I am consistent (4) with all the sweaters, henleys, and tees. Waist size, same deal-- I've got two different cuts from two different seasons. But not all bodies are built the same. Sizing can be a pain with any brand (some of my favorites are EG and Geller), and I wouldn't go so far as to call it a "mess".

I am someone who got burnt buying Tender whilst wearing a "ruffled your feathers" poncho.

Jabber: shocking!!

[Maynard Friedman]

[As I said before, cotton stitching is really weak, sadly. I see this issue on every used pair posted here, mainly on 129s(even on 1.5 month old Henry Wongs pair, page 34).

He's a little young to be wearing Tender isn't he?

Perhaps it's best to begin at a tender age though!

Edited March 1, 2013 by Maynard Friedman

[grooveholmes]

I am someone who got burnt buying Tender whilst wearing a "ruffled your feathers" poncho.

What season was that from? You probably paid too much for it, too. I think there's a thread for ponchos on here for you to complain on as well.

[rodeo bill]

Bill,

Logwood black Denim Jacket - where?

Very nice.

thanks for this. that jacket was from the aw11 production, and I'm afraid has now sold out everywhere I can see. there's a new denim jacket style just appearing though. As youthxattak mentions, Context now has some items up, including this jacket. I don't have the sample with me at the moment, but here are a couple of their pictures.

this new colour is also wattle (as the last production), but dyed with a slightly different process which gives it a warmer, more tan tone.

[rodeo bill]

jabber & thor, thank you for the comments- i take them very seriously and will bear them in mind. satchel, grooveholmes, ghostcat, youthxattak, thank you very much all too!

i'm just back from a very good, crazy busy, week in tokyo. here are some photos of buyers and friends wearing various different bits:

[rodeo bill]

[rodeo bill]

[rodeo bill]

[rodeo bill]

it was a busy week!

[andrew_]

4th to last pic - do I spot some Chukkas?

They look great

[rodeo bill]

^could be... more details nearer the time. but thank you!

by the way, the guy in that picture is the buyer for the fil melange store, in daikanyama. he's wearing a pair of special woad 130s with fil melange orange belt loops. the older gentleman in the middle of the background is the founder of fil melange. he's wearing a heart-breakingly beautiful 100% cashmere hand knitted white cowichan sweater (I'm sure heart-breakingly expensive too). he was a really nice guy, and placed a personal order for quite a few pieces.

[Youthxattak]

So Unionmade posted a teaser picture for a Tender Co. collaboration... Will this be a multiple piece exclusive or just a single item?

[rodeo bill]

where did you see that?! could you repost it here? they've been quick- the box only went out on Wednesday it's just one style, but it's come out really nicely. I don't want to say too much until unionmade are ready to go....

[Snake]

It's on their instagram.

[rodeo bill]

i just received a copy of the latest proper magazine, with a pair of 130s and some round top black sunglasses in it:

it's a good publication, well worth a read. I'm looking forward to going through it properly this evening.

I don't remember if I posted this before, but I did a 'favourite fives' for them a few months back