Tender Co. Denim

[Youthxattak]

How is it peggsandson are the only ones to put this up online so far... ?

http://www.peggsandson.com/brands/tender-co/railway-track-pillover-cream-brown.html

This colorway is great.. But I haven't seen it pop up in the states yet.

[grooveholmes]

hickorees has had the grey/black for several weeks now.

[Youthxattak]

The grey and black is nice. But this new color with the creme takes the cake. Imho. I'm also just excited to see what other late comers might be popping up for the aw12 season online.

[P_K]

How is it peggsandson are the only ones to put this up online so far... ?

http://www.peggsands...ream-brown.html

This colorway is great.. But I haven't seen it pop up in the states yet.

I didnt know Peggs and Sons stocked Tender Co, cheers for the tip as its a great store, and this is a reason to go to Brighton and have a shop.. )

Edited October 2, 2012 by P_K

[cool_hand]

How is it peggsandson are the only ones to put this up online so far... ?

http://www.peggsands...ream-brown.html

This colorway is great.. But I haven't seen it pop up in the states yet.

I really like the look of these jumpers but they come up ever so small.

I wonder if they were warm washed after they were made?

[grooveholmes]

Description says they were "hot washed for wind resistance".

[cool_hand]

Description says they were "hot washed for wind resistance".

How did I miss that? I was going to say "hot washed" but I thought that would be nuts to hot wash a a wool jumper.

[rodeo bill]

^^glad people like the pullovers yxa, the natural cream/black colour combination only went to Peggs & Son, and VMC in Zurich, nothing in the US I'm afraid.

The fit is fairly slim, c_h, but it's not too tiny I hope. I'll try to put up some fit pics sometime soon. In the meantime, you can see it on a model over at Context, here

p_k yes, Peggs has been stocking Tender for a little while now- it's an excellent shop and I'm really pleased to be working with them. They just received an exclusive coat which hasn't gone up online with them yet. I'll be picking the original sample back up from the factory later in the week and I'll take some photos and put them up- I'm very excited about it!

[wgmds]

Superdenim accidentally sent me a pair of 130s again (whoops). I looked on their site and it seems that the 129 waist is too big. I've done my best! I will still comment--albeit a little too frequently--and admire the clothes that you make. I wish that I could fit a pair of those new trews. I've been welding recently and got a small and painful burn on my knee that probably would not have happened on a pair of "foundry" fabric pants. Keep on keeping on!

[rodeo bill]

^oh no! sorry you're still having problems getting jeans....

wattle dyed beaverteen trews are at unionmade, goodhood, peggs & son superdenim and okiya.

better just put in a disclaimer about the foundry fabric! The weave is a tight heavy satin that's brushed up into a pile to help metal splashes run off. However theses are bias-cut, so the pile doesn't run in the right direction, so I wouldn't rely on it. Also, these are made from the fabric at its raw state off the loom, so it hasn't been coated with fire retardant.... just saying

[Thor]

I really like the look of these jumpers but they come up ever so small.

I wonder if they were warm washed after they were made?

I am a huge fan of tender but some sizes are very small. i couldn't fasten a guards jacket in size 5 !

p.s. i am not johnny vegas

Edited October 4, 2012 by Thor

[rodeo bill]

^thanks for letting me know, It's very helpful. Sorry about this. The guard's jacket is supposed to fit a bit undersized, but it still should be easily wearable, of course. The next season's jacket shape is wider, but I'll bear this in mind and look into the grading. Thanks again, also for the nice words!

[rodeo bill]

as I mentioned, here are some photos of a coat which I don't think has popped up anywhere yet. It's exclusive to peggs & son in navy (there are also some brown coats, only in Japan). I'm very excited about this one! It's the coat I'll be wearing myself now it's getting colder.

the shape's based on the 990 flowerpot canvas jacket from a last winter, with a few tweaks. The star is the fabric though:

the cloth's woven especially for Tender in Yorkshire, and is double-faced. The outside is navy tweed made from 2 different blue yarns, so there's a subtle play between the lighter royal-navy and the darker blue-black. The opposite face (inside on this coat) is natural brown jacob's sheep wool, undyed and showing the varying colours of the animal. The top of the body, and the full sleeves, are lined with cotton calico, and all the seams are covered with bias flat cotton calico binding. The lining edge is covered with natural cotton herringbone tape, and the buttons are custom English-made natural cow horn, hand sewn. The whole thing's constructed with ecru thread, which contrasts nicely as it sinks into the thick fabric.

Although the cloth is thick and warm, it's not actually too heavy, and it's got some spring and bounce in it, which makes it easier to wear (in my opinion) than traditional navy-type meltons used on p coats etc.

[Vanquish Gold]

Hey Bill, if I hem the Type 130 to 30 or 31 inseam is it going to affect the hem size? I am thinking of wearing it short and folding up for a cropped look from time to time.... what do you advise? And I can't seems to find any black logwood Type 130 online anymore... am I too late to kop those? Thanks

[rodeo bill]

^sounds good. The 130 is tapered, so it'll make a little bit of difference, but shouldn't be more than 1/4" or so. You could ask a store for specific size measurements. I've had a quick look around but I can't see 130s in black logwood around any more I'm afraid. Goodhood, in London probably have the widest range of dyes in 130. Hope this helps

[satchelbmoore]

i just hemmed my 129 woads.

i'd been rocking a serious double cuff (see above) and decided to take them down a bit. i had toyed with the idea of asking william if he had any woad-dyed thread that i could use for the hem but i realized that since my hands are woad dyed most of the time i'm wearing these (all the time) that the thread would probably take on some color especially after a wash. i don't have any white thread at the moment at the proper weights for chainstitching so i used the classic golden rod. it's amazing how they immediately jumped one step closer back to the repro game. i'm very excited to see the chainstitch change colors as the thread takes on woad.

the leg opening pre-hem was 7.5. the inseam is now 31" and the leg opening is now 8". i assume that would be a bigger jump on the 130s since there is more taper from the knee down.

some better fit pics are included as well.

i'm at about 20 days of wear. i can't really take them off.

(cuff pulled down to show chainstitch)

Edited October 8, 2012 by satchelbmoore

[satchelbmoore]

^ just noticed that the camera on my computer has the picture flipped on the vertical axis....i don't have the only pair of LHT woad dyed 129s in existence...

Edited October 8, 2012 by satchelbmoore

[Thor]

as I mentioned, here are some photos of a coat which I don't think has popped up anywhere yet. It's exclusive to peggs & son in navy (there are also some brown coats, only in Japan). I'm very excited about this one! It's the coat I'll be wearing myself now it's getting colder.

the shape's based on the 990 flowerpot canvas jacket from a last winter, with a few tweaks. The star is the fabric though:

the cloth's woven especially for Tender in Yorkshire, and is double-faced. The outside is navy tweed made from 2 different blue yarns, so there's a subtle play between the lighter royal-navy and the darker blue-black. The opposite face (inside on this coat) is natural brown jacob's sheep wool, undyed and showing the varying colours of the animal. The top of the body, and the full sleeves, are lined with cotton calico, and all the seams are covered with bias flat cotton calico binding. The lining edge is covered with natural cotton herringbone tape, and the buttons are custom English-made natural cow horn, hand sewn. The whole thing's constructed with ecru thread, which contrasts nicely as it sinks into the thick fabric.

Although the cloth is thick and warm, it's not actually too heavy, and it's got some spring and bounce in it, which makes it easier to wear (in my opinion) than traditional navy-type meltons used on p coats etc.

Seriously beautiful coat Bill, I have been looking for years for something like that, but one that I will have to admire from afar as there is no xl.

[rodeo bill]

^thanks! if you're interested, get on to Peggs & Son for measurements. In the picture I'm wearing a size 3. The guard's jacket is supposed to fit slim (actually it's based on a sleeved waistcoat, which would be worn under a jacket.

[P_K]

Had my 130's hemmed a few weeks back when I get a min over the next few days I'll get some pic's up.

[Youthxattak]

Cheers to being 6 feet and 5 inches. My 130s are a perfect length after a double cuff.. I'll buy Tender denim for as long as I can, if only for the fact William makes denim that a tall guy like myself can cuff and still cover my ankles.

[P_K]

Had my 130's hemmed a few weeks back when I get a min over the next few days I'll get some pic's up.

Here's the pic of my 130's, the guy at Son of a Stag in London said this thread colour was the best he had to match there colour, Im well happy with the result. Im tending to double cuff tho so the hemming can't be seen.

[Vanquish Gold]

Any insight on the wattle dyed denim? I know that it's brown overcast but any other interesting features to take note of? Since overdyed won't really affect the outcome of the faded weft and warp right?

[rodeo bill]

^ I'm afraid my own pair of fairly worn-in wattle dyed jeans are currently in on the wall at Loftman, in Kyoto, so I don't have them to post photos of. While you're right that it's the loss of blue from the indigo weft which gives the classic jeans fading, the natural dye gives the whole thing a different tone, and warms the fade. The brown makes the indigo almost black to start with, and then when it starts to fade, the blue comes through, giving it quite a subtle, but unusual character. Sorry if that isn't very clear... I'll post photos of my own worn-in when I get them back in a few weeks

[rodeo bill]

a shameless plug, but I just wrote up a description of it, which I thought people might like here. I've had a couple of the new 'keeper' buckles stove enamelled blue as a special for the trestle shop. They came out really nicely I think

[Snake]

Logwood Dyed Belt

New

Now

It's subtle but you can see the leather ages to more of a amber and black combo

[rodeo bill]

Looks great! Thank you for posting.

While we're on belts, here's the first from a few things made in collaboration with my good friend Morten Kristensen. Morten has a lovely brand of belts and suspenders, For Holding Up The Trousers, well worth a look in its own right. Morten makes his things himself, at his small workshop in Copenhagen, Denmark. I went over to visit a few weeks ago, to watch him making the first sample of a special belt for the trestle shop.

It's based on the way Morten's suspenders are adjusted, and has a section made from English-woven elastic, so it's a bit lighter and more flexible than the mainline Tender belts.

Here's Morten in his workshop:

and here's his bench:

The belts are cut by hand, very traditionally, with a curved knife:

the leather is vegetable tanned, and unstained, from a tannery just across the border, in Sweden:

the hook buckle is forged steel, and is made for adjusting the straps of gun slings:

[rodeo bill]

Unlike the mainline belts, these ones have separate sections, so the leather needs to be a little thinner and more flexible. Morten thins it down using a quite rudimentary splitter:

It's a very sharp blade and a clamp, fixed to the bench. It pares off a shaving of leather, leaving a precise thickness:

you have to put quite a lot of pressure on it, which you realize when the strap comes out at the end!:

Now the strip is the right width and thickness, Morten trims down the end, in Tender's bullnose shape:

....and cuts off the correct length to fit in one of the English-cast solid brass divider sections:

Now it's time to punch a line of holes around the edge of the leather, where it will be hand-sewn:

Morten sews completely by hand, using a long wooden bow, which holds the work tightly at eye level:

He works with 2 needles, which allows a symmetrical, secure stitch which can be tied of neatly at the end:

[rodeo bill]

The keeper is also hand stitched:

and has to be sewn in to the belt in the same stitch. This is really fiddly....

Now it's time to rivet on the buckle, with a hammer:

Now that the buckle end is made, Morten makes the other end, the sets about sewing the elastic to a little cover of leather, looped through the other end of the brass spacer:

[rodeo bill]

The final stage is branding, in this case more literally than often. Morten's logo is a numbered livestock brand which he found in a disused out-building of the old pig farm where he grew up. The farm's number was 3715. He whacks the brand into the end of the belt, then bangs it with a hammer to get a good impression:

now it was my turn!

morten had worked out that if we heat up a Tender brass jeans button with a blow torch, we can stamp straight down onto the leather.

And the belt's finished!

they're up online now on the trestle shop. Here's my own, worn for a few weeks, greased with boot grease, and coming along nicely: