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Roy. (expurgated edition)


rnrswitch

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got a pair of 32s after getting a pair of 33s and canceling that order. Turns out the 33 was probably the better choice. My 32 shrank down to 16" after a room temp soak.  The 37" inseam is now 34"

 

I'm really happy about the rise after wearing 10-10.5 rise jeans for several years now.  It's a lot easier to wear a 12" rise jean to work because I can actually tuck a shirt in.

 

Anyways. The fit is pretty damn perfect.  They are really quite slim when sized down and the taper is just right.  The top block fits really well but I'm a little concered for the crotch in the future. It's a bit tight but maybe I just need to break them in a little. I'll have to keep an eye on it if I continue to wear this pair.

 

I don't think I can do this size though long term. Couple years of tight jeans have affected my posture and given me acid relux.. oh well. Took a while to fix both of those issues but I don't want to run into that again.

 

If anyone wants to trade a 33 for a 32 though let me know.

Edited by givemefive
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I got a pair of 32s after getting a pair of 33s and canceling that order. Turns out the 33 was probably the better choice. My 32 shrank down to 16" after a room temp soak.  The 37" inseam is now 34"

 

I'm really happy about the rise after wearing 10-10.5 rise jeans for several years now.  It's a lot easier to wear a 12" rise jean to work because I can actually tuck a shirt in.

 

Anyways. The fit is pretty damn perfect.  They are really quite slim when sized down and the taper is just right.  The top block fits really well but I'm a little concered for the crotch in the future. It's a bit tight but maybe I just need to break them in a little. I'll have to keep an eye on it if I continue to wear this pair.

 

I don't think I can do this size though long term. Couple years of tight jeans have affected my posture and given me acid relux.. oh well. Took a while to fix both of those issues but I don't want to run into that again.

 

If anyone wants to trade a 33 for a 32 though let me know.

what did your measurements end up being post-soak for your 32s?

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what did your measurements end up being post-soak for your 32s?

 

I've worn them for a day now so the waist probably went from 16.25" to 17" which is what my jeans are normally at.  15 minutes in some water would take them back to 16.25" for sure.

 

I can get the rest of the measurements like leg opening, rise etc tonight.

 

I had SE take an inch off the inseam so they shrunk down to 34" pretty much on the dot.

Edited by givemefive
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Ok, going in for a soak first thing in the morning. In the meantime here is presoak pics and measurements for my Tagged 34 KS1001.

 

(I measure everything B.I.G style, no disrespect to SE intended.)

Waist: 36"

Front Rise: 12.75"

Back Rise: 16.5"

Thigh: 13"

Knee: 9.25"

Leg Opening*: 8.75"

Inseam*: 30.75"

*(Went pretty bold (stupid?) on this purchase and had SE hem presoak, my true inseam is 27.5" so I had them do 31" which I figure should leave me with a little bit of a break after the soak.. anyway just keep that in mind as you read over my measurements.)

 

Hard to give an impression without falling into jean-speak hyperbole but as you would guess, they are delightfully overbuilt. Character of the denim is pretty light, very even, soft and understated in its presoak state, but close up shots reveal some light hairs. The rise is quite high but as I ease into my 30s I appreciate it because it tucks in the beer gut, and since I am "generous" in the rear these should keep me from showing people more than I intend to when I bend over to tie a shoe.

 

Going to really try to stay focused on these until TCB contest kicks off... but i'm awful about sticking with one pair.

 

Denim pics:

DSCN8485_zpsef0f469c.jpg

DSCN8482_zpsfe4ed48f.jpg

DSCN8480_zpsdd876665.jpg

DSCN8476_zps185a9b5d.jpg

 

Pre-Soak Fit Gallery:

Untucked:

200976cd-50f3-4279-a64a-75eef3267c99_zps

e9c2f29e-1564-4fda-89a3-41e5d4d182a3_zps

756c5fb5-ff88-4f1c-a804-697bdb6acdc4_zps

 

Tucked to show pre-soak rise:

2d5789b1-ce03-4d10-8a8e-025b6a1291d5_zps

cdfe9dd6-0e2b-4b05-994e-a2226a9bb1a9_zps

30996dff-99b4-4dd3-aa2d-21e4c5622f3a_zps

 

 

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Remember that these are Self Edge measurements and not BiG. A 13.2" Self Edge thigh is probably > a BiG 13.5". You can even try them on if you live in Oakland and get the definitive story.

As an aside, you should definitely try some Ande Whall Buffalos if you want hand-made jeans with thigh room, I love mine and my size 31s have a 13" thigh after a couple of days wear. If you usually wear 33, then a 32 should be fine on you.

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ROY's thigh measurements kill the desire to buy another "straight" fit of his for me.  No reason a raw tagged 34 should have a 13" thigh.  When ROY drops a tagged 33 with a post wash thigh of 13" then Ill be interested.  

 

I suppose it all depends on how you're measuring, but I've just looked at all of the usual suspects, and I can't find a jean at SE or BiG that is 13+ in the thigh of a tagged 33.  I know there  are definitely 50's cuts out there that get there, but, unless I'm reading your post wrong, it seems odd that you'd be surprised that Roy isn't going fuller in the thigh than most/all of the 47 cuts out there are at.

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I suppose it all depends on how you're measuring, but I've just looked at all of the usual suspects, and I can't find a jean at SE or BiG that is 13+ in the thigh of a tagged 33.  I know there  are definitely 50's cuts out there that get there, but, unless I'm reading your post wrong, it seems odd that you'd be surprised that Roy isn't going fuller in the thigh than most/all of the 47 cuts out there are at.

Full Count 0105.  Warehouse 700  SDA 101.  I own all three ( warehouse is the 415, but its basically teh same as 700) and all have a post wash thigh of roughly 13" from crotch seam to outer thigh seam

None of these are sold at Self Edge, but I believe Kiya even stated the fuller cuts are not in line with what the market demand is at the time.  I could have misinterpreted though.  

 

I dont pay attention to 50's or 60's cut.  At the end of the day, I need a thigh measurement (BiG style) that is roughly 13" and a front rise that is roughly 12", with a back rise in proportion to the front rise.  All post wash measurements  ROY's come close, but like I stated, my 33" RS04's thigh is juuuust on the verge of being too snug.  This is all personal preference, not trying to convince anyone of anything .  

Edited by garden gnomes in space
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I was just commenting based on Cold Storage's measurements.  My 33 RS04's have a thigh of like 12.5 or so.  Right n the border of being too snug for comfort.  Im just bitching, I love Roy and his stuff.    

 

I'm all for bitching.  And I looked at the post-wash measurements for FC 0105 and SDA 101 at BiG, and both seem to be under 13…but as we all know…the lot of jeans that were measured, the wash, and the person measuring can all effect those things.  

 

I was mostly asking because I pay almost no attention to measurements as they pertain to jeans that I wear myself, and what fits me, and what doesn't, but my thighs are getting big enough that 1947s, 3005's, 3012's, and the KS1001s, are all that's really comfortable. Just based on how they fit, I figured they were in pretty close territory to the FC (which I own) and the SDAs/Warehouse.  

 

Figured that for somebody heavy into repro cuts, the limiting factor would be the taper, and not the thigh measurement.

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The limiting factor is generally not the taper but the rise. My FH350s in a size 32 had a post-wash rise of 11" with a 12.75"ish thigh. They were too tight in the end but that thigh on a 12" rise would be a different kettle of fish and definitely doable for me. I think that most Self Edge jeans, with the exception of Roy and Sugar Cane have 'modern' low rises and that is where they effectively close the door on customers who prefer more vintage/repro cuts.

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The limiting factor is generally not the taper but the rise. My FH350s in a size 32 had a post-wash rise of 11" with a 12.75"ish thigh. They were too tight in the end but that thigh on a 12" rise would be a different kettle of fish and definitely doable for me. I think that most Self Edge jeans, with the exception of Roy and Sugar Cane have 'modern' low rises and that is where they effectively close the door on customers who prefer more vintage/repro cuts.

 

I hear you on the rises.  I ended up in a 36 in the 3005 while I'm a 34 in everything else, not because I couldn't fit the 34, but because I wanted the extra rise.  I was speaking specifically about the KS1001 though, in that the taper is a further departure from the various 47 repros than the top block.  I'm very excited at what seems to be an emerging trend, cuts like the KS1001 and the 3012 from FH which are utilizing full rises, but with cuts that can end up having a fairly slim silhouette.  It's definitely been a missing niche.

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^ Agreed tmadd and this is why I love my Ande Whalls so much. I'm a 32 in most repro jeans but need a 13" thigh, which usually means a 9" hem. My 31 Buffalos have a 12"+ rise, a 13" thigh and 8" hem - I feel like I'm wearing a slim cut and it's quite refreshing.

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Post Soak Update:

DSCN8489_zps3a58112b.jpg

 

Did about 40-45 min hot soak w/ agitation and hung dry in the back yard. Denim got real crispy and rigid after the shrink. I'm really enjoying the fit... it's going to be really tough to go back to mid or low rise which is a shame since I have a closet full of mid ad low rise pairs.

 

(Again...I measure everything B.I.G style, no disrespect to SE intended. Measurements are pre/post soak and I always put the pair on during the tail end of the dampness to speed up waist stretching which should explain why the waist measurements are what they are.)

Waist: 36"/35.5"

Front Rise: 12.75"/12.25"

Back Rise: 16.5"/16.125"

Thigh: 13"/12.75"

Knee: 9.25"/9"

Leg Opening*: 8.75"/8.5"

Inseam*: 30.75"/28.5"

 

Excessive post soak gallery:

Im expecting some great roping from the already evident tension:

DSCN8497_zpsa8ae23c5.jpg

DSCN8498_zpsebcf2979.jpg

RIgid!

DSCN8499_zps3dd7de14.jpg

DSCN8502_zps7c0659fc.jpg

DSCN8503_zpsac5dd964.jpg

DSCN8504_zps7b0970c1.jpg

Tucked (for rise reference):

DSCN8508_zps5ca15a21.jpg

I'm REALLY pleased about where the length ended up, so I hope all the shrink is out.

DSCN8511_zps44c91279.jpg

 

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Pre-soak and details

First of all, what a classic flasher. The denim is shiny and not nearly as dark as I'm accustomed to. It's also quite smooth. The fit is really nice and I believe the soak will perfect it. Self Edge hemmed to 35 and I'm hoping for the solid 3" shrink in the inseam.

Rivvut!

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Pre-soak pics

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