Roy. (expurgated edition)

[whitehorses]

just read this thread front to back and I can't get enough of these jeans, definitely picking up a pair as soon as I have the funds. More fit pics!

[salaami]

yo, this dude right here is in touch with his star player! hand-crafted by a single artisan from start to finish, that banana yellow fatboy chainstitching on the hem, the chainstitch embroidery on the pockets, this guy is obviously ingesting the right mix of chemicals.

??does roy use cotton thread? i'm usually a absolute stickler about this detail but having a pair of jeans made from beginning to end by one pair of skilled hands is something even some okayama made jeans can't offer, which means a lot to someone as anal about jeans as me. this brand reeks of authenticity. i was shown the raleigh denims a week ago at the local 'premium'denim store but now i have to go back and see if the ones i saw before are the black seed denim. if so i can get a chance to check it out thouroughly. i go in there and turn jeans inside out on the counter to check the stitch quality so i'm sure they won't mind.

[roy6]

Salaami, I asked ROY about the thread when I was there. He uses poly/cotton, and cited its better lasting ability as why.

I though when I was there that he said he uses black seed cotton denim, and might have labeled some picture that way, but I suspect I was mistaken. I'll double-check.

[Vinneus]

Look what I got today!

[rnrswitch]

Dude, I am totally gonna swing by your house and jack you for those babies. How do they fit pre-soak? That patch looks like it gets thicker and thicker with each pair he does. Roy's patches are like Samson's hair.

[Vinneus]

...alittle slimmer than i expected, but not an issue.

tagged 34 x 33.5

pre soak:

waist 17

thigh 12.6

hem 33.5

[roy6]

Awesome! If you're worried about them ending up too slim, maybe you could wear them to dry and that would keep them from shrinking too much in the wrong places?

Looking forward to post-soak fit pics...

[aho]

The jeans look great! The denim does have a bit of stretch to it after one soak but I'd be careful after subsequent soaks/washes...It really tightens up! Awaiting post-soak and wear pics...

[Vinneus]

yea... i dont think theyll ever see hot water or a wash machine. but i think im siked! better post soak pics in the light of day!

[bestie]

these look great... thanks for the nice pics, vin

i'm looking for a new pair at the summer's end and i think Roy just shot to the top of the list.

vincent, did you order yours one size up as roy recommends? warm or cold soak? posk soak pics!

thanks for sharing

[Vinneus]

I went TTS coulda upsized one.... dont be mistaken these are slim, but im allll in!

still wet...

[rnrswitch]

Those look good. They will stretch in all the right places I am assuming.

[Dr_Heech]

Vin, you got selvedge socks !?!

.

[Vinneus]

im really siked.... as long as i get a .25 inch - .5 in the thigh ill be perfect.

post soak: 15 min. cold

waist 16.5

thigh 12

hem 32

Dr Heech, Hillside mutha fuckaaaaa

[aho]

Damn, TTS? I went True to waist and still think I could've sized up one but I'm sure you'll be fine! Since they're still wet and you most likely worn them wet, no problem in stretching...

[bestie]

he suggests sizing up one, but i suppose since he did a cold soak + wore them wet he should be fine.

i'm 90% sold on these...they look great. whats the denim like IRL?

[jasonfoote303]

I went TTS coulda upsized one.... dont be mistaken these are slim, but im allll in!

still wet...

fit looks good Vin!

your pad is straight Pottery Barn steez

[roy6]

Vinneus- looks great. Do some squats while they're still wet and you might get a little more room in the thighs. And a quizical look from your girlfriend.

Salaami- I checked in with ROY. He did have some denim from Cone's black seed line at his studio, but that isn't the denim that he uses on his standard 5-pocket jean.

He does use poly-cotton thread. He said:

"I use D-Core cotton with a poly core. Its way stronger for high speed machines. Sewing with cotton threads is a real bummer. A friend of mine told me the way some Japanese factories do it, is they get these servo-motors that can be dialed way slow and set them up on the old heavy duty machines like mine so they can minimize thread breaks. Maybe one day I'll get to try that out because I do like the idea of 100% cotton."

[dubgiant90]

no love for skinny folks ?

[Vinneus]

dub, you would be fine. as for the size up/down thing.....

ive always been a ideal 33 in all my Jap denim ( FH F380, IH SEx07, MF/SC, RRL) and thats what ive always bought, so when i went 34 i actually did siz up, and post soak, the Roys where perfect..... Prolly coulda went 35 and washed and dryed em, but whatever, im good for now. not to mention, ill have forgo any fast food, to keep em fittin! hahhaha

[ThinFinn]

^fit is great vin.

what's your hight and bodyweight mate? trying to figure out if a 34 is fine for me...

could you post all postsoak-measurements like fr./b.rise,knee?

you've posted the hem measurements as a 32. are these cm or what?...

cheers

[holleman]

Looks nice Vinneus!

Can't wait to get mine, Roy will probably be working on them as we speak.

[salaami]

usually i would scoff at a poly thread jean, but the dude took time to explain why he uses it, and he did'nt have to do that. i'm gonna holla at dude soon, i've watched this video i don't know how many times yesterday. i want the works. gotta have some of that dirty south black seed denim with the obese hem chainstitching.

[Vinneus]

...at work in them now. they are just about dry and have setteled perfectly. post pis tonight.

[TallyHo]

usually i would scoff at a poly thread jean

i have always wondered: what is the appeal of all cotton thread, exactly? is it just about authenticity of reproduction? Roys are not repro jeans, as far as i can tell.

poly cotton thread is way stronger (right?). it's the one thing i wish all the japanese companies would change in their production. why would they use thread that is weaker than the fabric it holds together? would you use wooden screws to attach steel beams? makes no sense to me.

is it because the cotton thread "fades better" or something? no chance anyone could tell the difference without a magnifying glass and at least 2 years wear on the pair. then the only telltale sign would be that the poly thread jeans might still be in one piece.

[zissou]

Poly threads wouldn't work for anything garment dyed, because they wouldn't accept most dyes. Other than that, I pretty much prefer poly thread. I hate the shrinkage of cotton threads on shirts and other garments.

[wgmds]

so they dont sell ducks still, do they?

[TallyHo]

that's a good point about the garment dying...

i guess i didn't consider the reverse effect of shrinking: unsanforized denim shrinks about 10% but poly cotton thread probably doesn't shrink much at all. still, i don't think this would have a very noticeable effect.

not even close to the effect of zippers on unsanforized jeans...

[Paul T]

so they dont sell ducks still, do they?

Check out rnrswitch, ain't he showing his purty face wearing ROY cotton duck???

[rnrswitch]

so they dont sell ducks still, do they?

They? He. It is one dude doing it all. I assume he will start up some time soon though. Your still looking for some ducks huh?