Unknown Japanese Brands

[Talan]

Blocked? Hmmm... probably a certain supreme power sparing me from some awful danger I'm in for chasing another obviously unnecessary pair of jeans....  I already can't decide if I need the SC 1946 after I get rid of some SC pairs I bought earlier to some relief.

I need to finally start learning to settle for what I need, while rejecting what I want 🙂

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

2 hours ago, Talan said:

I need to finally start learning to settle for what I need, while rejecting what I want

That’s a member requirement for this forum. Don’t be too tough on yourself. 

[Talan]

9 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

That’s a member requirement for this forum. Don’t be too tough on yourself. 

If it is a requirement, it is clearly violated here and there. Ah, if only on this forum... 🙃

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Neat Style's in house brand (done by Bridge of the Times, I think) goes to the next level and now offers completely broken leather patches

[julian-wolf]

Sugar Cane did it first, 25 years ago ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

55 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Sugar Cane did it first, 25 years ago ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

With remains? Hadn't seen those before. Only the models without patch 

[julian-wolf]

I was thinking of the ones with no patch—that only seems like the next logical step

[Ryu]

On 2/26/2024 at 8:04 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Neat Style's in house brand (done by Bridge of the Times, I think) goes to the next level and now offers completely broken leather patches

 

oh nice!

[istewi]

I was in the middle of ordering a pair of LB 40s and finalizing the measurements when Isamu stopped responding. That was a month ago. Who knows. 

[Signet]

we have a  couple of dozens of the ww2 groudn alls denim in the store theyre awesome! 

 

 

[Signet]

size 36 raw is  the ff :

 

w 460mm

f rise 335mm

b rise 448 mm

thigh 390mm

knee 285mm

inseam 910mm

hem 269 

 

 

did a cold soak and line dry agitated a little bit 

 

well see in a  half a day from now 

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

That's a serious wide fit in the legs

[Signet]

i think they shrink alot 

[MJF9]

Post some pics if you can Ed pls... 

[Signet]

just took measurements of them  on the line dry.. cold soak tap water and line dry

 

waist shrunk 2 inches

inseam shrunk 3 inches

front rise shrunk 1/2 inch

back rise shrunk 1 1/4 inch

thigh , knee shrunk 1/2 inch

hem shrunk a little more than 1/2  of an inch 

 

 

imagine doing this is the dryer... could be half an inch  or more...

[Signet]

they fit like warehouse 1003xx ww2 in a size 34 but these are a 36 on the ground alls

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

Since I got my third pair of Oni's today, all three of them wide legged (12oz 202, 20oz 200zr, 15oz 222), I wonder why they aren't more popular here, for the denim is quite nice, they offer a lot of different cuts and the prices are reasonable... I couldn't even find an Oni thread.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

The mysterious old denim master marketing schtick I found quite ridiculous. That was enough to turn me off completely. But coupled with cuts that had no appeal to me (at least when I looked a few years ago), and the nature of the denim itself all made it clear it was for someone else. I had a pair of PBJ once and that was too much for my tastes.

I’m sure it’s nice stuff but I just wouldn’t prefer it.  

Edited April 9 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[Broark]

Basically what Alien said above ^.
Pretty sure there is an Oni thread, but I don't think the brand gets much traction these days (around here at least) since the denim is so irregular and generally heavier weight.
Most people here are more interested in repros or lesser known brands, not big slubzzz and straight tapered fits.

[julian-wolf]

Agreed with everything that’s already been said, but also (& maybe most importantly?) their patterning is absolutely terrible. I spent enough time on r/rawdenim to see more than my fair share of ONI fit pics, and they look bad on every body type, pretty much across the board—like in the same league as N&F. Almost no one manages to make them look like a good / natural fit.

[Geeman]

Agreed,  the initial marketing put a lot of us denim snobs  experts off.  I've had 2 or 3 pairs in the past, I prefer a slimmer fit but the fabrics were a bit to much for me.. I think the level of slub just made the fades weird. 

The 14oz fabric was crap, paper thin. 16 oz was better and 20 oz secret is OK... until it fades. 

Their over dyed black (Azumi?)  was quite nice. 

PBJ are well ahead for fabric.

[Maynard Friedman]

Oni thread - all the way back on pg 5. I quite liked them years ago when BiG sold the Oni Red and Oni Blue models but haven’t given them a second thought since.

BS United is a pretty funny title though! 🤣

[indigoeagle]

The Oni heavy oxford items like the type 2 jacket are quite nice, I find.

I still have a pair of the 277, which is a regular straight fit. I bought them 10 years or so ago. They have some WW2 details like laurel button and olive drap HBT pockets. That denim is 15oz, I think, and quite subdued.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

3 hours ago, Geeman said:

Agreed,  the initial marketing put a lot of us denim snobs  experts off.  I've had 2 or 3 pairs in the past, I prefer a slimmer fit but the fabrics were a bit to much for me.. I think the level of slub just made the fades weird. 

The 14oz fabric was crap, paper thin. 16 oz was better and 20 oz secret is OK... until it fades. 

Their over dyed black (Azumi?)  was quite nice. 

PBJ are well ahead for fabric.

I may have been a snob, but Oni was one of the first raw denim brands I was familiar with, so I was definitely no expert. Doesn’t take any familiarity to see that marketing was just goofy. 

[vlad_III]

ONI, the old Japanese denim master no one knows. He can only work in the summer months. He still manages to pump out gimmicky collabs with all the western denim stores. 
cuts and fabric aimed at TikTok and instagram crowd. American influencers pushing the brand. 
must be quite a man this old guy. Drinking from the fountain of youth while making jeans during the humid summers in Japan.  

[Geeman]

9 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I may have been a snob, but Oni was one of the first raw denim brands I was familiar with, so I was definitely no expert. Doesn’t take any familiarity to see that marketing was just goofy. 

It was a light hearted remark.

IIRC didn't N&F really push the secluded denim master story when they bought out an Oni collab? They did something similar with Kamikaze Attack as well 

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

Many thanks for sharing your thoughts! I actually I didn't know the brand until DC4 in Berlin had these in store, and as a lover of high waisted, wide straight legs jeans, which are still hard to find and often at a prices I wouldn't pay, thinking of Fullcount, Dawson or At Last & Co, I was happy to find Oni. Their other cuts are not my thing either. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Fwiw, FullCount 0105 in a lot of varieties are quite reasonable (by Japanese denim standards) when paying Japanese retail which isn’t too tough to find. About 180-190 USD. 

[Talan]

My Libra Pondus have arrived. The story of the order is full of unusual details. The packaging in Japanese paper and metal box to store and protect the kimono is unique in itself. Not to mention that Isamu san's blog features quotes from Schopenhauer and Goethe... 🙃

[mpukas]

On 4/11/2024 at 9:37 AM, Talan said:

My Libra Pondus have arrived. The story of the order is full of unusual details. The packaging in Japanese paper and metal box to store and protect the kimono is unique in itself. Not to mention that Isamu san's blog features quotes from Schopenhauer and Goethe... 🙃

 

I haven't been following this thread for a while, so I'm not up to speed with what you guys have been up to... WTF are those???!!!