Japan Blue Momotaro

[mlyngard]

On 4/20/2017 at 1:34 PM, FreeCharlesManson said:

Japan Blue X Blue Owl Workshop JBO-420 6-10 washes not sure don't keep track about 18 months of wear

 

You can definitely fit some more pictures onto that post, Charles. 

Great work on those. Never had a chance to do the feelie on that denim, but it looks like a broken twill with that amazing vertical falling, and pretty different than the standard Momo cloth. Is that what you find?

[mlyngard]

0405-V for sale.

Sadly, this wasn't the fit I was expecting, despite my looking at the measurements with a friggin magnifying glass and comparing to other fits I've worn. I even sized up after a past 0701 ownership size-dilemma. It's just impossible to ever really be sure about fit from a chart, isn't it?

Anyway, it's good to see Momotaro finally embracing tapered fits, and roomier cuts. The 0701 tight straight days were a pain because I could never get that fit to work on my slim build. Needed more taper for me.

Edited October 3, 2017 by mlyngard

[ALB]

Was Momotaro's Copper label revamped or are there no longer any US stores stocking them?

Remember Blueowl and a couple others had it but now it's just the mainline I believe. 

[mlyngard]

On 10/3/2017 at 3:05 PM, ALB said:

Was Momotaro's Copper label revamped or are there no longer any US stores stocking them?

Remember Blueowl and a couple others had it but now it's just the mainline I believe. 

Blue In Green. Always on point. Momotaro does the tight tapered fit with the copper label denim. I owned the 0701 in this denim too and it's amazing. Very different from the Zimbabwe 15.7 oz. A little slubbier with a vertical texture. Good warm weather denim too

I'm sure BiG, BluwOwl or Standard & Strange could order what you want though.

 

Edited October 11, 2017 by mlyngard

[ALB]

Ha, I need to read more carefully because I actually checked BiG and must have overlooked that page. Might have to ask if there's a natural taper fit since tight taper looks to be a bit tight for me.

Thanks

[Maynard Friedman]

Not in USA I know but there's always Denimio and Okayama denim.

[mlyngard]

On 10/3/2017 at 3:29 PM, ALB said:

Ha, I need to read more carefully because I actually checked BiG and must have overlooked that page. Might have to ask if there's a natural taper fit since tight taper looks to be a bit tight for me.

Thanks

Check here too:  https://www.cultizm.com/en/denim/jeans/9882/momotaro-jeans-0306-dc-zimbabwe-cotton-indigo-14.7oz

[FreeCharlesManson]

On 10/3/2017 at 7:16 PM, mlyngard said:

You can definitely fit some more pictures onto that post, Charles. 

Great work on those. Never had a chance to do the feelie on that denim, but it looks like a broken twill with that amazing vertical falling, and pretty different than the standard Momo cloth. Is that what you find?

yeah broken twill with a fair amount of slub, haven't felt many momotaro so can't comment on that. at this point they are very soft with some texture, texture has become less tactile with wear. 

[Bobbo]

I put together a wee blogpost from my visit to Japan Blue earlier this summer: http://indigoveins.com/visiting-japan-blue-jeans/ 

[lance]

Enjoyable read, Bobbo, thanks

[Niro]

Yep, a damn good read @Bobbo

[mlyngard]

4 hours ago, Bobbo said:

I put together a wee blogpost from my visit to Japan Blue earlier this summer: http://indigoveins.com/visiting-japan-blue-jeans/ 

My two favorite small parts:

'Having grown up in a family that loves vintage denim in Osaka, Yudai gave up his career at one of the big IT companies in Tokyo to move down to Kojima and work with what he loves." That's a very cool dream come true.

"One of the best parts was seeing an old lady chainstitching hems perfectly, every time, in less than six seconds. I wonder how much time I’d need to practice to get to that level?" (males me sad when those hems are cut off when I have them re-hemmed)

This was a great read, and a nice glimpse into the reality of how our much-loved jeans are made. I really appreciate that they're made in small workshops like that, and that the art is still alive in an otherwise industrialized economy.

[bramhall774]

2105SP - 2 years, 1 wash.

[Niro]

I really like the copper label denim now. At first I thought it was ok, but after the first wash, it became softer and the hairiness really came out. I also grew into liking the G004 fit. It's a real slow fader though, worn mine effectively for around 6 months and it shows about the same amount of fade as other jeans would in half that time. Plus I been wearing them on work trips where i'd be rolling around on floor running cabling and other IT crap.

Edited December 11, 2017 by Niro

[BrownMetallic]

Copper-On-Copper MomoTUX: MJ2103 x G014-MB ... both in “Copper Label” 14oz denim.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2018 by BrownMetallic

[babydials]

Anyone know where I can find these in NYC?  I need to try on before buying but can't find a store here that sells them.  Neither the Selfedge or Blue in Green sites are showing them.

[mlyngard]

3 hours ago, babydials said:

Anyone know where I can find these in NYC?  I need to try on before buying but can't find a store here that sells them.  Neither the Selfedge or Blue in Green sites are showing them.

Momotaro? Any specific model?

Blue in Green Soho stocks them, and just got a shipment of the copper label tight-tapered 0306-C, but I don't think you'll be able to find any of the copper label in other cuts there. However the tight-straight and tight tapered are the same cut from the knee up.

[babydials]

9 hours ago, mlyngard said:

Momotaro? Any specific model?

Blue in Green Soho stocks them, and just got a shipment of the copper label tight-tapered 0306-C, but I don't think you'll be able to find any of the copper label in other cuts there. However the tight-straight and tight tapered are the same cut from the knee up.

BinG stocks Japan Blue (did not see them on their site)?  Are the Japan Blue division cuts identical to the Momotoro parent cuts, I tried Momotoro's in the past without the fit working on me.  But I figure Unbranded and N&F do not use identical cuts, so there may be a chance for Japan Blue to work.  Specifically looking for Japan Blue.

[mlyngard]

8 hours ago, babydials said:

BinG stocks Japan Blue (did not see them on their site)?  Are the Japan Blue division cuts identical to the Momotoro parent cuts, I tried Momotoro's in the past without the fit working on me.  But I figure Unbranded and N&F do not use identical cuts, so there may be a chance for Japan Blue to work.  Specifically looking for Japan Blue.

Momotaro is the original brand and now a subdivision of the parent company Japan Blue Group out of Kojima. Japan Blue brand was launched as a more price-accessible line around 2012. Momotaro is the flagship line, and Japan Blue is the more consumer brand. Both use excellent denim, but Japan Blue experiments more with denim wights and weaves. Momotaro stays true to it's time-tested 15.7oz Vintage and 14.7oz Copper label denim. Momotaro also offers it's "going to battle" stripes on the 15.7 oz as an option, as well as other back pocket silkscreen customs like Evisu does (these can be found at Denimio and other Asian websites only). Momotaro has pink inseam stitch, Japan Blue is blue. Japan Blue loses the back pocket rivets and pricier details to keep price down under $200; the price-point target for the brand. Momotaro usually stays under $300. Momotaro is more trend-resistant (which I love), and Japan Blue a little more trend-driven. Both had different philosophical approaches to jeans-making.

Momotaro offers a range of fits in the US in order of tightness/rise: Tight Tapered, Tight Straight, Slim Straight, High Tapered, Natural Tapered, etc. Japan Blue offers Slim Tapered, High Tapered, Slim Straight and others.

It's confusing, since there isn't an exact overlap between fit names, but the similarities are close. It's even more confusing when retailers mis-name the cuts. Tight Tapered (Momotaro) and Slim Tapered (Japan Blue) are very close, but the taper is more apparent on the Momotaro. So check measurement charts closely.

Also note that Momotaro uses a partially sanforized denim which will see more shrinkage than Japan Blue's fully sanforized denims, but both brands have been offering limited edition fully-loomstate unsanforized denim occasionally.

I would give Japan Blue a B+ grade for overall quality, and you definitely get what you pay for with Momotaro. I've owned many of both and remain totally loyal to Momotaro.

Jay at Blue Owl Workshop has been carrying Japan Blue since the beginning, and knows both brands extremely well. Gordon at BiG has been with Momotaro (only) since it's launch around 2007-08. For Japan Blue, I would suggest shopping from Blue Owl's selection since Jay has a good eye and only brings in cuts that sell in the US. Standard and Strange, Blue Owl and BiG all know Momotaro well. 

Edited December 29, 2017 by mlyngard

[babydials]

Sadly blue owl does not have a NYC outpost.  Guess I can try the tight taper at BiG.  I just don't like to make them spin their wheels so I can buy something else from someone else.  Thanks.

[wolfofthesea]

Hey  guys, just purchased my first pair of Japanese raw denim, super excited. Bought the Momotaro GTB 0205SP from the blue button shop sale, so at a good price as well. Really impressed by the quality( As I should be for my first Japanese pair). Denim is fairly uniform, but feels like a tight weave. I'm sure more slub and hair will appear after the first wash! However they came with a booklet that was written all in Japanese, and I was wondering if anyone knew the translation? Here are some photos of the new pair.

[Spiraltoy]

6 hours ago, wolfofthesea said:

However they came with a booklet that was written all in Japanese, and I was wondering if anyone knew the translation?

Try the google translate app. You just take a photo of the text and google translate it for you. Easy peasy. Oh, and nice pic up! Post some fit pics!

Edited January 3, 2018 by Spiraltoy
Spelling

[wolfofthesea]

11 hours ago, Spiraltoy said:

Try the google translate app. You just take a photo of the text and google translate it for you. Easy peasy. Oh, and nice pic up! Post some fit pics!

Thanks, I'll download that on my phone and use it! Here are some fit pics after the first day of wear. May end up getting them hemmed a bit shorter, as currently I'm rocking a triple cuff. Didn't think I'd like the battle stripes, but they're growing on me for sure. In the sunlight the fabric definitely has more hair and slub.

[mlyngard]

On 12/30/2017 at 8:06 PM, babydials said:

Sadly blue owl does not have a NYC outpost.  Guess I can try the tight taper at BiG.  I just don't like to make them spin their wheels so I can buy something else from someone else.  Thanks.

Babydials, my apologies, I wrote all that garbage and missed your main question  - If you want to try on a pair, I you can always purchase the pair you're interested in and return them if the fit isn't to your liking. BiG and Blue Owl both accept returns for unused new-condition merch.

Pro-tip - don't size down on Momos. Expect to have a true to size fit at the waist after the first soak. Another pro-tip - Momos, maybe more than any other denim, will fit awkwardly at first wear or two, especially around the hips and seat. So don't let first impressions spoil what becomes a great fit after a week of wear.

[mlyngard]

22 hours ago, wolfofthesea said:

Hey  guys, just purchased my first pair of Japanese raw denim, super excited. Bought the Momotaro GTB 0205SP from the blue button shop sale, so at a good price as well. Really impressed by the quality( As I should be for my first Japanese pair). Denim is fairly uniform, but feels like a tight weave. I'm sure more slub and hair will appear after the first wash! However they came with a booklet that was written all in Japanese, and I was wondering if anyone knew the translation? Here are some photos of the new pair.

 

 

 

 

 

Congrats! Fit looks amazing. That tag basically says the same rhetoric that's written HERE

If you leave the jeans unwashed with just a soak, they'll remain fairly smooth/sandpapery and hairy. After the first real wash, when the denim is soft, you'll start to feel the vertical slubbing in the weave. It's subtle but it's part of what I love about the denim. Only Studia D'Artisan does a denim with so many subtleties. Enjoy!

 

ps - on my first GTB stripes pair, I used a sharpie and colored in the white stripes. The black ink wore off unevenly to expose the white paint and made for a very cool result. No pics sadly. Ex-gf made off with them.

 

Edited January 4, 2018 by mlyngard

[wolfofthesea]

44 minutes ago, mlyngard said:

 

Congrats! Fit looks amazing. That tag basically says the same rhetoric that's written HERE

If you leave the jeans unwashed with just a soak, they'll remain fairly smooth/sandpapery and hairy. After the first real wash, when the denim is soft, you'll start to feel the vertical slubbing in the weave. It's subtle but it's part of what I love about the denim. Only Studia D'Artisan does a denim with so many subtleties. Enjoy!

 

ps - on my first GTB stripes pair, I used a sharpie and colored in the white stripes. The black ink wore off unevenly to expose the white paint and made for a very cool result. No pics sadly. Ex-gf made off with them.

 

Thanks, Read the translation and it was definitely interesting. Glad they will shrink a tiny bit with first wash, as the waist is stretching a little bit. Really digging the subtle characteristics, definitely different than my last two pairs. 

[Maynard Friedman]

I’ve finally broken out my (tapered) 0901s after having them sitting in the wardrobe for about 5 years. At 15.7oz they’re the heaviest jeans I’ve ever worn and I like them. It’s good to have some crispy dark denim on again.

[i_denim]

Hi, How are Japan Blue Sanforized Jeans in terms of stretch?

I am confused if I should buy size 36 and it will stretch to 38, or buy size 38 and it will stay the same/shrink? My waist size is 38. Also, anybody has feedback, comments on their 'High Tapered' fits like JB0612, JB0606, JB0601, JB0626 etc?

First pair of selvedge & raw, can't wait any longer to buy and the price is as low as those Unbranded/Naked & Famous types

Edited February 5, 2018 by i_denim
spelling

[i_denim]

Couldn't read, discuss anymore about Japanese Selvedge raw denim anymore. Placed my first order with Okayadenim for a pair of Japan Blue 0606 High Tapered.

I've spent more than the $130 I paid for this, on fast fashion denim so quite happy about that. I will need to pay 40% customs once it reaches India ($52) but that's fine. Under $ 200 experiment

Thanks to this forum, I dodged a bullet last night at my so far favorite brand G-Star. I didn't buy a pair of Raw jeans even though I liked the brand and the fit, as it was not Selvedge.

 

Edited February 5, 2018 by i_denim

[Niro]

Okayama seems to automatically mark down the value, so you may either pay no customs or lot less than you imagined.

Anyway good stuff on finally pulling the trigger. As I said in your thread, Japan Blue is a good starting point into this type of denim world. I'm sure you'll be blown away by the quality of the jeans compared to G-Star