THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

[lsaylor]

for down the road I am b/w FC1108 and SDA103

[tion4->]

I have the FH3009 and I just ordered the ues400T. I LOVE MY 3009'S , in retrospect I should have sized up to a 31 and went with an inseam 1 in longer and they would be the perfect pair. I bought them before I became obsessive about studying the measurement charts. I am looking forward to my 400T's, I just hope I sized them correctly. I am 30 in most jeans which as mentioned was too small with the FH's but I ordered a 29 in the 400T's based off the measurement charts. The top block in the 3009's is tight but thighs are more relaxed.

Much appreciated! Leaning more towards the 400T.

To be honest I've never really considered Fullcount before...the 1101 and 1108 look like great cuts!

[tion4->]

UES 400T vs Fullcount 1101 vs Fullcount 1108

I think the 400T is most similar to the 1101. Thoughts?

[Broark]

I love the fit on my Fullcount 1101's, I have them in the standard 13.7 oz. denim and the special run fabric Ed did with his store.

Nice gradual taper, doesn't look carrot-shaped at all. Mainly since the thighs are as slim as the 1108.

Really would be wearing the special run pair a whole lot more if I wasn't wearing my OA02's for the DWC.

[Sugar Mountain]

Totally agree that the 1101 is a nice tapered cut but it's not true that the thighs are cut as slim as the 1108. On a tagged size 30, the thigh measurement is a full inch larger for the 1101 than the 1108 according to BIG. No way could I squeeze into a 1108 leg without them looking sprayed-on!

[Max Power]

The UES 400T has a super comfy thigh whereas the 1108 is not bearable in the same size. The 1101 should be more relaxed, but also not as tapered as the 400T or 1108.

[lsaylor]

The UES 400T has a super comfy thigh whereas the 1108 is not bearable in the same size. The 1101 should be more relaxed, but also not as tapered as the 400T or 1108.

thx that is very helpful. I bought my 400T's because of your posts( not recieved them yet). So if the 29 400Ts work well , how would I size the 1101's?

[Broark]

Totally agree that the 1101 is a nice tapered cut but it's not true that the thighs are cut as slim as the 1108. 

Whoops, I totally meant to say that "mainly since the thighs are not as slim as the 1108".

I could never fit my thighs in some 1108's!

Doh. 

[tion4->]

Well now I'm down to either the UES 400T or the Fullcount 1101.

Apart from the taper on the 400T, how would you compare the two terms of denim character, fading, etc? Anything else to consider between the two?

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Maynard Friedman]

Maybe FH 3012 rather than 3009 Hog? Alternatively Eternal 811, I know you were looking at them a couple of years ago.

Also Momo 0201.

Edited September 2, 2015 by Maynard Friedman

[beautiful_FrEaK]

rather Eternal 883...811 isn't as tapered (IMO)

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Frost]

Hogg: Oni 527ZR

Edited September 2, 2015 by Frost

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Frost]

Sure, although IIRC the secret denim doesn't feel too heavy because it's a very loose weave, but I'm sure people who actually own a pair can judge this a lot better than me.

 

Those other options look great as well.

[unders]

Hogg: Oni 527R

 

Agree with this. Here are my W32:

 

Waist: 16.75† 

Front Rise: 10.5"

Rear Rise: 14"

Hip: 21"

Thigh from crotch: 12"

Thigh @ 3â€: 11" 

Mid Thigh @ 6": 10"

Knee: 8.5†

Hem : 7.75â€

Inseam : 34"

 

Measurements look like they might be marginally slimmer (esp. top block) than your ideal pair but could work.

 

Mine are plain old 527. Not 527zr or 527r (which I've never really known the difference between).

 

I can put my truzzers back on now!

 

Edit: mine are non-wash. Not now (!) when I bought them.

Edited September 2, 2015 by unders

[Frost]

^This was actually a typo by me. 527 is the cut, ZR means Secret Denim afaik, there is no 527R I think....Corrected it above.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[unders]

The low tension weave does make them more comfortable than other heavyweights although it is a fairly slim fit so they can feel pretty snug. I suppose we're going into winter which will help.

But to be perfectly honest mate, I wore some normal jeans last weekend (Westride at c.14oz) and decided I was never going to buy heavyweight jeans again - they're just simply not as comfortable than jeans ought to be. It's taken me 3 pairs of heavyweights to reach that conclusion!

Edited September 2, 2015 by unders

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[itsbenhere]

Hog from what I remember the measurements of my size 33 3009 are pretty much exactly like that.

Can't measure now (on vacation), but will post in 10 days if you'd like!

Just check out my evo pics if you want to see what pioneer denim can do....

[SuperJackle]

Yeah hog I was gonna say I think the 3009 in 33 as well. That's what I've been looking at because those measurements are perfect for me as well.

[tion4->]

On the subject of tapered cuts, after measuring and considerable re-measuring and cross referencing what I'm wearing I think I've reached what might be my definitive preferred sizing and hopefully cut. 

 

* All measurements post wash / soak / shrink

 

Waist (waistband aligned front and back, pulled a bit) : 16.5† - to fit 33†doubled

Front Rise (crotch seam to top of waistband above button) : 10.75†to 11†max

Rear Rise (crotch seam - from rear - to top of waistband) : 14.75†to 15†max

Hip (over bottom fly button ) : 21.5â€

Thigh from crotch (crotch seam to outer edge beyond outer seam - e.g. full fabric width) : 12.5†to 12.75â€

Thigh @ 3†(full flat fabric width) : 11.5†

Mid Thigh @ 6" (full flat fabric width) : 10.25"

Knee (at 13" down from crotch seam)  : 9†

Hem : 8â€

Inseam : 32.5†to 33â€

 

If anyone has the Strike Gold 1109 in a 33 or 34, would this be comparable? Or The FH 3009 again in 33 or 34? Or a tapered fit from Oni?

 

Here's some measurements on some size 33s in Strike Gold (1109) and Oni (517) that I used to have. Both were too slim for me...sold them. Based on your preferred measurements they're too slim for you as well. 

 

The Strike Gold 1109 size 33 (after one hot soak)

Waist: 33.5â€

Front rise: 10.25â€

Upper thigh: 12â€

Thigh (1" below top): 11.5â€

Mid thigh (6" from upper thigh): 9.5â€

Knee: 8â€

Hem: 7.75"

 

Oni 517 14oz low tension size 33 (after one warm wash)

Waist 33â€

Front Rise: 10"

Back Rise: 13.75"

Top Thigh: 12.25â€

1" below top of thigh: 11.75â€

Mid Thigh (6" from top thigh): 10â€

Knee (12" from top thigh): 8.5â€

Leg Opening: 7.5â€

 

The FH 3009 sound like a great bet. 

Edited September 2, 2015 by tion4->

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[lsaylor]

I agree with the 3009 choice. My optimum waist is 30.5 and I have a size 30 3009 which would have been better at 31.

I have the 1109's in a 31 and the waist is slightly big but thighs are perfect and the cut is more tapered(much more) than 3009.

I also have the 811's in sz 31 and they are relaxed all around , should have gone TTS.

I feel the 3009's are a Size up One fit. I think Kiya says this as well in his fit description. They are what you are looking for. 

[superheavent]

Yoo guys, with so many denim brand and quality out there, i need some help here 

 

I have a $350 budget for denim,

what slim tapered cut, weigh ranging from 15 - 18 oz, with the most awesome details and texture the denim have that i should get?  I prefer Japanese brand though 

 

Cheers guys.

[tion4->]

Best to start with the fit you're after since 'slim tapered' can mean different things to different folks.

Take some measurements of a pair that you have now that is closest to what you're looking for. If you post some measurements you'll probably a lot of great advice (like hoggreaser on the last page). Use the Blue in Green measurement method: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=41

Edited September 3, 2015 by tion4->