SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[NilsLW]

@willi I own a few OCBDs from the 80s, one Ralph Lauren and the rest made in England random Savile Row type stuff. They are all really long and go way down to my thighs in the back, and also quite full in width. One actually even has the same length measurement as pit to pit, thus making it a perfect square. Even though they are my size they look silly worn tucked in with a suit or jacket, because of the ballony effect (think Seinfeld). I only wear them untucked casually. 
IMO 60s cuts are a lot more elegant and will look better today.

[Dr_Heech]

Saw this Stay Brave book around Instagram recently. A collection of vintage 501XX by Tsuyoshi Kusanagi.

 

 

Basically l am curious to know the contents of the book, especially the 1922 501XX collection. I want to know how good/detailed the images are, also with the possibility of it being dual language (Japanese/English) - again just going by the pics. I'm just interested in any more intel on this publication so just putting it out there as l'm not the most internet-ready person but there are peeps with skills here which may help??

Thanks in advance 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

More info here:

https://staybrave.tokyo/

I think you can only buy in person. Already saw a copy on Mercari for 32k ¥

[Dr_Heech]

5 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

More info here:

https://staybrave.tokyo/

I think you can only buy in person. Already saw a copy on Mercari for 32k ¥

Thanks mate. Yeah figured it would be out of my league. Just curious to how 'good' the content actually is after all the hype-dust has settled. 

[paulm]

can anyone shed light on thses Edwins ??

 

Edited November 14 by paulm

[jkbrwn]

@paulm - My knowledge on Edwin died a long time ago, but as far as I know, Edwin hasn't used that leather patch for quite some time. Could be an ED-55 or an ED-47 with rainbow selvedge.? Based on the leg opening I'd lean towards an ED-55.

Edited November 13 by jkbrwn

[paulm]

8 minutes ago, jkbrwn said:

@paulm - My knowledge on Edwin died a long time ago, but as far as I know, Edwin hasn't used that leather patch for quite some time. Could be an ED-55 or an ED-47 with rainbow selvedge.? Based on the leg opening I'd lean towards an ED-55.

this is a unsual lot ..the arcs are very different compared to the normal arcuates..its a special japanese release and none of the lots you have mentioned

Edited November 13 by paulm

[jkbrwn]

Possibly these ED-55s? https://www.heddels.com/2014/09/edwin-japan-x-edwin-europe-ed-55-made-in-japan-denim/

 

I think I had a pair of these back in the day actually and they look very similar. From SOAS right around the time this Heddels article was published.

Edited November 13 by jkbrwn

[Maynard Friedman]

I don’t think they are the ED (European  range) - they have different arcs and patch and usually a small E tag on the outer right pocket at the arc.

They look like these Edwin E Classic to me.

[paulm]

sorry guys thses are different ..definatley a different japanese release...i cant find anything on threm, and i havent seen any arcs like these ever on Edwins they have a hand stitched look to them and similar to the levis 1933 arcs ...here is another pic

Edited November 13 by paulm

[jkbrwn]

They're two different models in your two photos though. So now which one are we trying to identify 😋

[paulm]

Just now, jkbrwn said:

They're two different models in your two photos though. So now which one are we trying to identify 😋

you are right ..i thought they were the same ...the latest photo is what i am trying to find out about..apologies

 

[Maynard Friedman]

In that case, I think they may be from the Edwin Overworks Factory collection.

More here

[paulm]

6 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

In that case, I think they may be from the Edwin Overworks Factory collection.

nahh if you notice the arcs are really high on the pocket, and there is some stiching in the corner of the pockets a bit like what stevenson overalls do...the arcs look hand stitched (sort of) ..and not machined

Edited November 13 by paulm

[Maynard Friedman]

Can you offer us any more clues? I assume you’ve seen these on eBay or Yahoo auctions and don’t want to reveal your source in case someone else here sees it and buys them!

[paulm]

18 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Can you offer us any more clues? I assume you’ve seen these on eBay or Yahoo auctions and don’t want to reveal your source in case someone else here sees it and buys them!

there are no more clues i was looking through a pintrest arcs library and they were there with no info other than the pic i posted, i have taken that pic to all the places in london over time, and they dont have a clue what they are..thats why i have arrived here with the pic..last chance saloon as they say.

here is the link take look for yourself https://uk.pinterest.com/paralogical/arcuate-library/

Edited November 13 by paulm

[exaptavist]

@paulm Have a look at the top row here

https://www.instagram.com/edwin_japan/p/BhTrjvhnF7N/

Better close up.

https://www.instagram.com/edwin_japan/p/Bcj3djyja2A/



I believe this model comes with a ref of 51040 and are a 50th anniversary model

I can resist anything but a challenge, it seems.

Edited November 14 by exaptavist

[Alec Leamas]

Any of us in the North of the UK have any recommendations for good cobblers?

The guy I usually use also works on the TV show Repair Shop and has shut up shop indefinitely to focus on similar projects.

The work I am after is by no means niche or specialist, though naturally I want clean, precise, high quality work doing so my local Timpsons is out of the question! (unless of course anyone can recommend a secret Timpsons ninja who is actually really good)

 

 

[Maynard Friedman]

The Shoe Healer

[Alec Leamas]

4 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

The Shoe Healer

Thanks they look great! Have you used them yourself?

[Maynard Friedman]

They were recommended to me and I did use them years ago but can’t remember what for now! Anyhow, I know I was happy with the service. What are you looking to have done?

[Alec Leamas]

Great stuff.

Either an addition of a rubber layer on a leather sole, or a resole of a leather sole to a lugged unit. On some preowned Alden's. Locating the decent cobbler would guide as to which pair I get and consequently which job I need doing!

[paulm]

4 hours ago, exaptavist said:

@paulm Have a look at the top row here

https://www.instagram.com/edwin_japan/p/BhTrjvhnF7N/

Better close up.

https://www.instagram.com/edwin_japan/p/Bcj3djyja2A/



I believe this model comes with a ref of 51040 and are a 50th anniversary model

I can resist anything but a challenge, it seems.

well played..... they are the ones !!

[exaptavist]

[Alec Leamas]

@willi just harking back to the conversation around spectacles a few weeks ago(?)

It seems Cubitts now do have a US presence: https://cubitts.com/blogs/stores/west-village

[81FXR]

@willi On glasses, sorry it’s a bit late but check out Julius Tart Optical (the Japanese one).

I’ve got two pairs of the Japan made FDR, a brown pair for my daily wear and black for sunglasses. I bought the frames online and had my local optician do the lenses. I’ve worn one pair daily for just over two years now and they look as good as new.

Not totally sure on the story behind why there’s a Japanese company which are made in Japan, and a US company that are made in Italy or indeed if they’re anything to do with each other but I can only comment on the quality of the Japanese one.

Honestly they’re the best quality frames I’ve had. I’ve had Cutler and Moscot and the Tart are a notch above in terms of quality. That isn’t to say the others aren’t good, but the Tart frames feel weighty and superior.

The only downside is they’re not always easy to get hold of. 

Alternatively I’d also second the Cubitts recommendation. My other half has some and for the price, their range and quality is hard to beat.

Edit: I see Julius Tart are already mentioned, apologies! Would definitely recommend though.

 

Edited Sunday at 11:08 AM by 81FXR

[81FXR]

On chinos, does anyone know how Warehouse 1082 compares to the Buzz 1945?

I have the Buzz ones and love the rise and leg, but the fabric has always felt a bit light for my taste. I know they’re repro but I sort of feel like I’m wearing floaty silk pyjamas when I walk and would love something with a very similar fit but slightly weightier fabric.

[FurnitureMaker]

I have both the 1942 early buzz chinos and the 1082.  The rise of the buzz is nice and high, while the rise on the 1082 is almost too low for me.
That said, the fabric and construction of the warehouse pair is of noticeably higher quality. I wore both pairs for work pants and the warehouse fabric is much more robust and also, the construction much longer lasting. The warehouse pair also for the win in terms of comfort. If the rise was an inch higher they would be perfect for me.  

The buzz chinos are very good pants too, and cheaper to boot. 

[81FXR]

Many thanks @FurnitureMaker

That was my concern, the rise looks quite low in the photos of the Warehouse.

I’m 6’1 and am used to wearing fairly high rise pants so I’m not sure they’ll be right.

Any other chinos with a nice high rise but a construction/fabric like that of the Warehouse?

I guess what I’m looking for is a Full Count 0105 but in chino.

[FurnitureMaker]

@81FXR

these Jelado chinos are worth considering. 
 

https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000011127?category_page_id=ct001