SugarCane 1990's M-Series Archive

[Double 0 Soul]

Ive been researching SugarCane's M-Series on and off for years..it's 99% complete but still a bit of a work in progress..

First up are the 'MP' codes, from what i can gather they originated around the late 80's, there used to be some bits of helpful info on 90's era Japanese blog sites, Geocities and such, sadly nowadays its all been lost or archived...

MP-597

XX replica, redline denim, offset loop, what look like a boxy 50,s cut.

MP-603

Circa 90/91, white/silver line, off set loop but look more like a '47' cut

MP-604

101Z 'Cane's' Riders released from around 1990/91

MP-619

Lee 101, Pinkline, 'Union Made Cane's' button

None of the MP models have a patch. Production of the MP codes ends before 1992.
I have seen an article in 'Made in Japan' magazine referring to the 1991 release of the M41001 but that was retrospective having been published in 1998, there must have been a few years crossover period.

Next up the early 90,s product codes
M41072

1922-1936 replica

M41028

Late 1800's Repro, No back yoke

M41030
Late 30,s 501XX using a 13oz white line denim

 

These came into production in the early 90,s and gained a cloth patch around 1997, There is also a M41030 with standard 'Toyo&CoSPL' fly

 

 

M41001

Early 90's Laurel leaf model, late 40,s silhouette, 50,s details, pink-line denim

 

M41001
1997 cloth patch model, both of these pairs are a 50's repro/details but their silhouette is more 47-esque, most unlike the wide/boxy, exaggerated SC-55's

 

M41027
40,s Repro 101-B 14oz denim

M41057

 

WWII 101-B

 

 

M41051

 

1936 101 Cowboy Hair on Hide

 

M41101

Mid 30,s 101 Cowboy

M41058

11MW

M41059

1947 11MW

For comparison here's a deadstock pair belonging to Mr. Takahashi of Junky who also reproduced this pair.

Another comparison of the pinkline denim types through the generations

Worth noting that the M41001 & M41030 are 1" undersized comparred to the SC-47's and shrink 'from tagged'

M41001 Tagged 32

SC-1947 Tagged 32

Other notable mentions

M40333
Bell Bottoms

M41151

Painter Pants

M41117/M41099

Lot 117 + Lot 99 Ranch Pants, 10oz, buckle back, wide leg
M41102
Lot 102 Engineer Pants, 10oz buckle back, wide leg
M41104
Lot 104 Tool Pocket, 10oz wide leg
M41106

Lot 106 Union Made Logger Pants, 10oz wide leg

M41025

Beams x Oriental Enterprises XX. M41001-esque, 'Beams' tab & buttons, no arcs, no patch.

 

Next up are the 91-97 M-Series Denim Jackets

M11026
WWII 13oz denim

(M11317 506XX Cloth Patch  +pocket flap +donut buttons)

M11001 Type2 without patch/outer stitch M11027 with patch

M11028 Type 3

All of the above lots started life circa early 90,s and gained a cloth patch before the end of production in 1997

M11317
213 blouse

M11002 (M11327 Blanket Lined)
101-J

M11141
11MJ

M11142
11MJZ Scovill zipper

 

I hope this helps with the search... If you need anymore info, let me know and i'll see what i can dig up.

Edited February 12, 2020 by Double 0 Soul

[Double 0 Soul]

1998 M-series

After spending the early 90,s constructing the perfect replica's SugarCane decided to distance itself from strict reproduction.

All of the following are SugarCane's own interpretation.

 

M41119 (1st)

66 cut, 14oz course weave moving away from pink or white and into green line denim. The arcs are gone but the red tab is still apparent.
Goat skin patch, coming into production in 1998 but due to the transition the early model button backs are still stamped with the S as per the 91-97 Lots.

M41200 (2nd)

Sugar Cane's own interpretation of a wide leg 1910 model using the 14oz green line denim.

A unique looking pair of jeans. No tab or arcs. The selvage is visible around the inside of the waistband, crotch rivet and hammered exposed back pocket rivets reinforced with leather discs. Starting to experiment with pocket bag materials. The button backs are now stamped 98 to indicate year of manufacture.

 

M41300 (3rd)

M41150 (Persimmon Dyed)

Tapered from hip to hem, 14oz green line denim. 98 button code.
Deerskin patch, front rivets now neatly embossed "Sugar Cane" while hidden rivets are stamped with the usual SC&CO TY.
Lined back pockets/coin pocket. No tab or arcs.

M41400 (4th)

Paper patch, Mid 50,s cut, Talon Zipper Model using 14oz green line denim. The red tab returns but no arcs. The patch is the same design as the Deerskin M41300 shown above albeit embossed in red on paper

 

M41301

Brother model to the above using black 14oz white line denim but replacing the zipper with a button fly.

M41302

Bootcut model with a zip

M11619
Sharing the same 14oz course weave green-line denim as the M41119

M11400
Same paper patch as the M41400 continuing to move away from reproduction...

 

Six years later Sugar Cane moved on from the M codes to the SC codes which we all know today, bold move to then resurrected both tabs and arcuates when throughout the late 90,s they sought to distanced themselves from their use.

2004 Sugar Cane Lot.1947

Happy hunting..

Edited June 12, 2020 by Double 0 Soul

[Bobbo]

What a comeback. Welcome back aboard!

[Double 0 Soul]

Thanks Alex

[MJF9]

@Double 0 Soul really appreciate the insights - top notch!!

[shredwin_206]

Thank you master double 0!

[Josh'N'Roll]

Goddamn! Post par excellence.

[Thanks_M8]

Really needed this here! Thanks @Double 0 Soul

[Double 0 Soul]

No problem, thanks everyone, you're too kind.

I know some of you super-peeps have found the guide useful in the past, i'm just happy to share the information.

[bartlebyyphonics]

Great to see it here! A great source of info back from the ashes!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Best thread in a while, thanks a lot mate!

[Foxy2]

Simply great!

Many thanks!

[Maynard Friedman]

Wonderfully informative and researched thread Neal, I quite fancy a pair of the M41300.

[Double 0 Soul]

When it existed in it's previous life, it was in a research sub-forum so it never needed a bump, if it only exists on sufu as a guide it'll get buried in a few months time.

I know a few of y'all have hit me up and/or used it over the years to track down these old M-Series, you have much better photo's of some pairs than i do (some of these^ photo's are 25 yrs old) so don't be afraid to give the thread a bump every now and again with some better images.

[Double 0 Soul]

4 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Wonderfully informative and researched thread Neal, I quite fancy a pair of the M41300.

Iron-Horse got a beat up old pair of M41300 for his Mrs, they look fantastic.

[Broark]

Glad this was resurrected, very informative.
There's a deadstock pair of M41300 on Yahoo in my size that's very tempting, but the price is a bit high.
@Double 0 Soul you should post some photos of your Junky Special 1946's.

[Iron Horse]

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Iron-Horse got a beat up old pair of M41300 for his Mrs, they look fantastic.

Yep yep!

Here they are:

 

[Thanks_M8]

3 hours ago, Broark said:

Glad this was resurrected, very informative.
There's a deadstock pair of M41300 on Yahoo in my size that's very tempting, but the price is a bit high.
@Double 0 Soul you should post some photos of your Junky Special 1946's.

Go get them! They are great jeans!

[Thanks_M8]

btw bump for my M41030X

[cusswords]

Without releasing it I purchased an M series blanket lined storm riders jacket from yahoo auctions earlier this year. 
 

 

[Double 0 Soul]

Well done cusswords, i'll add it to the line up.

Thanks_M8- i had my fingers crossed that those M41030's were going to fit, i had my doubts but they look perfect! I'll get those Junky 46's posted up in the regular SugarCane thread, keep this one for the 'purists'

Nice I-H... proper boyfriend fit, she looks great in them.

Edited February 12, 2020 by Double 0 Soul

[Thanks_M8]

Thanks @Double 0 Soul. Haven't put any time in them yet, since I'm wearing the denimba contest jeans atm, but will try to put some wear in them afterwards, if I can still fit in them.

[Double 0 Soul]

Here are a few details of my...

M41001's Laurel fly

These are notoriously difficult to acquire as collectors items in perfect ds condition with all the stickers and swing tickets still attached, i bought these from a private collection for well over the original rrp

Pulled, not broken

Oversized coin pocket

.

M41001, standard fly

The pinkline denim is a lot more neppy and much less streaky than SC-47's

Pre 1998 all button backs stamped with an 'S'

.

When you're looking at photo's on Yahoo auctions.. if you're not 100% sure of the difference between the standard fly M41001 and old SC47's...? looking at the back the arcs are a slightly different style, SC-47's have a larger 'diamond' and are always broken in the same place, underside, middle top, underside

This doesn't help if the arcs are worn so looking below the top button.. SC47's waistband assembly stich continues at 90° over the top of the fly

...and M41001's ends at the bottom of the waistband, this is always the 'tell tale' sign

Hope this helps with ID, often Yahoo sellers can't tell the difference once they've lost their patch

Edited November 11, 2019 by Double 0 Soul

[Jimmy Tarbuck]

A couple of recent pick ups from the depths of Yahoo and a good opportunity to give this thread a bump as it's been a great resource!

I am cursed/blessed with a short inseam and 34 waist which means I can often swing a few bargains on Yahoo that you freaks with a regular inseam have to pass over!  Anyhow...

M41001 No patch, small diamond arcs but branded buttons instead of the laurel leaf buttons on @Double 0 Soul pair above.  These are tagged 35 but came measuring about 32. After a cold wash and a coat hanger to wedge the waist open they are at 34.  Inseam is 28.

 

[Jimmy Tarbuck]

And secondly a pair of M41028.  Laurel leaf buttons on these.  Definitely a lighter weight than the m41001, maybe 12.5oz if anyone knows for sure?  Tagged 34 and came measuring about 32 but again, a cold wash and a hanger in the waist has them back to 34.  Inseam is about 30 inches.

 

[Double 0 Soul]

I seem to think the M41028 were 11oz, i'll have a dig around on my super-computer when i get home.

Ive got a pair of those M41001's Jim, (bottom left)

They were the 1st incarnation, followed by laurel button (top right) and 3rdly they gained a cloth patch in 1997 (top left)

Nice little haul you have there..and thanks for giving the thread a bump.

[Double 0 Soul]

When you get 5mins, can we see some details of the M41028's ?

Button back's, rivets (both sides) and the cinch, thx.

Is there selvedge in the coin pocket?

[Jimmy Tarbuck]

Yep, selvedge coin pocket and button backs are stamped with an S.  Cinch feels pretty sturdy (not that I'll need it to hold these up!).

 

[MJF9]

M41001

Worn for the past 5 lockdown weeks, about 5 days a week

Including 25 x Joe Wicks PE sessions!

[Jimmy Tarbuck]

Look great mate. I just sold mine, they were always a bit too tight in the waist and never really got worn.

My 41028s are on eBay too. Beautiful jeans but i need a 36 in a higher rise cut.

On the plus side, can spend some time trawling yahoo for more old sugarcane that actually fit me!