Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

[volvo240thebest]

11 hours ago, MileHighEvertonian said:

I just want to register my support for the first arc option (OG-inspired) alongside others who've already chimed in.

Also, I can appreciate Volvo's sentiment & disappointment about those of us who are going without suspender buttons. For me, the choice was all about making sure I won't even hesitate to wear my pair regularly. Buttons & braces would be fun as a novelty for me, but I somehow find the buttons to be the one thing that make me feel a shade or two too costume-y; as such, I just worry that I would pull my 60s or SC 47s on too often instead of the 20s. Truth be told, until the no-buttons option was confirmed, I was just going to buy a pair of 50s and sit the contest out. So, I'm quite pleased with Inoue's flexibility on this and happy to be on board for the contest. Also, I'm about to move from Denver, Colorado to Charleston, South Carolina and think that such a significant change of scenery and lifestyle should pair really well with the contest. Cheers. 

Yout can easily wear a belt over the buttons, they don't make much of a difference... Anyhoo as long as you all are happy I'm happy too!

[volvo240thebest]

On 05/31/2017 at 11:47 PM, volvo240thebest said:

Contestant list:

1. Volvo240thebest (Italy) - confirmed W36- L78cm
2. Nycsurfer530 (Usa) - confirmed W31 - L79 cm
3. Aho (Usa) - option
4. Foxy (Germany/Russia) - confirmed W33 - L84cm
5. Mandel9000 (Norway) - confirmed W30-L79 (no suspender buttons)
6. Bartlebyyphonics (Uk) - confirmed W38 - L85
7. Bobbo (Sweden) - confirmed W33-L80
8. Frost (Germany) - option W30- L79cm (no suspender buttons)
9. Gardengnomesinspace (Usa) - confirmed W36-L80cm (no suspender buttons)
10. Jigsaw (Indonesia) - confirmed W33-L79 cm
11. Milehighevertonian (Usa) - confirmed W36-L84cm (no suspender buttons)
12. Capsicum Fired Meat (China) - confirmed W33-L70
13. Not too tight (Usa) - confirmed W36 - L81 cm (no suspender buttons)
14. Hendsch (Usa) - confirmed W29-L75 cm (no suspender buttons)
15. Cuccoo (Germany) - confirmed W30 - L82 cm (no suspender buttons)
16. FreeCharlesManson (Canada) - confirmed W30 - L88 cm
17. Haler (USA) - confirmed W36 - L86 cm
18. AgingProject (UK) - confirmed W31 - L79cm

Updated list!

[MJF9]

Any word on the t-shirt Volvo?

[Cucoo]

Personally I know 100% that I won't get braces, and I can't imagine the buttons playing nice with a belt, meaning, they'll leave marks / dig through the leather over time - won't they?

[volvo240thebest]

I don't think so I've been wearing a bit my warehouse 1004xx with a belt and didn't notice any mark on the belts.

[volvo240thebest]

34 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Any word on the t-shirt Volvo?

Not a word yet from Inoue, it seeks likely that we'll get it done outside of Japan unless Ed finds a different solution

Edited June 17, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[edmond]

Fucking sus buttons marks on my belly fat fuckers - fc 1922

[Paul T]

7 hours ago, Cucoo said:

Personally I know 100% that I won't get braces, and I can't imagine the buttons playing nice with a belt, meaning, they'll leave marks / dig through the leather over time - won't they?

You have the opportunity of something different. Or something that's pretty much the same as you're familiar with. Why not go crazy and opt for the unfamiliar option?

I wore the Tour 20s with a belt and they were fine; likewise my 30s Lees and Levi's 201. In a world where there is so much choice, why - when you have the opportunity of something so unique - go for what you've done already? The suspender buttons are an intrinsic part of the vibe, you can wear your jeans without a belt and even with a belt, you'll be fine.

[chicote]

^to add to paul's argument, if you find the suspender buttons overly uncomfortable you can always take them off with pliers or large wire cutters. i'm not entering this contest for reason of having too many jeans already, but have been tempted by what paul's saying—these jeans present an opportunity for something totally new.

[MileHighEvertonian]

^I'm not gonna lie. It's a pretty compelling argument. I may well rethink my decision before we reach the deadline...

[nycsurfer530]

Also the suspended buttons will age and rust beautifully with the fabric!

[mrman]

I don't get it why this peer pressure to force the issue, if someone prefers them without the buttons that should not concern you in any way. Of course you could argue that they are not 20s jeans anymore but I think that is the case already, true 20s jeans would have a higher rise.

Before I'm committing to this (sans the suspender buttons) I'd like to see the back pocket arcs. Not a fan of the cat ear design.

[volvo240thebest]

^ you can see it as you like, I do find it's a pity to order a special pair like this and not get the full 20's homage packaging, especially considering that a belt can be worn over the braces buttons. The buttons are iron, they start ultra shiny but they'll get dull and eventually will rust with wear, they should look very good after 18 months of use. But I guess that if you're 100% sure you'll never ever buy a pair of braces then it makes sense as well to avoid the buttons, hence why I've asked to Inoue to offer this opportunity as well.

As for the front rise, this is an homage cut, so a few wee things here and there had been adapted by Inoue according to his own preferences. I do have the Warehouse 1004xx (another 22's style cut) and although the huge high rise I'm not sure it can't be called a true repro neither, the cut looks too trim and the hem too small to really be a repro. It also lacks a few little features that are there in the TCB 20's (lighter weight denim belt loops, back pocket zigzag sewing details at the corners).

 

 

Edited January 16, 2018 by volvo240thebest

[mandel9000]

True, Volvo. I'm completely down with what you pro-button people are saying, and the authenticity argument is indeed compelling, but I'm absolutely positive that I'll never wear suspenders (<- famous last words, haha). 

It's not that I don't like the look on others - I do - but I feel suspenders would push me into overtly retro territory, the costume-y feeling that someone referred to earlier. Also, I find the look a bit too masculine (a good thing for most men, I think, but not for me). Lastly I'm a big fan of functionality and buttons that won't be used have no function really.  

[bartlebyyphonics]

as someone intending to use cinch primarily more than belt and intentionally oversizing to maximise cinch / suspender options i feel should chime in with these two comments:

1. i would never buy a 20s without suspender buttons: to me they define that model / era of jean. but, interestingly with the reduction of the rise to 'modern' proportions i wonder whether inoue has designed a wee bit of the functionality out of them. going into hardy amies / suit heritage territory: it is my understanding that suspended trousers are really meant to be worn up and around the navel area to allow a nice drape. so those choosing no buttons are really going in the flow of the rise reduction, particularly for the taller / longer body. i feel the cinch is the thing i couldnt do without. and, tbh, if it wasn't for the amazing fabric of the 50s which i hope bodes well for the 20s the lower rise would possibly break the deal for me. i fully see why people dont want the buttons: tcb is not old town (who produce the most suspenseful of trousers) and braces produce cosplay fear in even the most stout of heart. the experience of mandel in relation to use of cinch on world tour is sought pls....

2. having worn the lvc 1873 and 201 (which both have suspender buttons) a lot years back the only discomfort that i really can report is when face-planting off my skateboard and then they used to produce some exquisite bruise patterns on the hips: not practical for such activities! but, fine for day to day, but not if worn in tension (or in high impact scenarios) on bony areas like hips...

[not too tight]

All this suspender talk pushed me back over to get the buttons on my pair even though I doubt I'll ever use them. Does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably priced pair that don't venture too deep into the cosplay arena? I've found many in the past through thrift shopping but was curious if someone knew something I didn't.  

[volvo240thebest]

^ cheap braces reccomendations:

1. UK RAF surplus (grey with natural leather fittings)
2. CZECH ARMY surplus (amry green with bronw leather fittings)
3. many Lee 101 jeans come with a free pair of suspenders, sometimes people put them up on Ebay. They're nice, I bought a job lot of three pair on Ebay for 20 eur.

My favourite pair of Lee suspenders, worn with wh jeans. I'm pretty happy that the TCB are going to have 2 cm less rise btw.

 

[mandel9000]

I wasn’t bothered by the suspender buttons on the tour jeans at all, but I didn’t wear a belt either, just tightened the cinch to the max to keep them from falling down. That was a size 32 though, a 30 will stay up on its own. 

24 minutes ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

the experience of mandel in relation to use of cinch on world tour is sought pls....

The waist-to-hip ratio on most women makes it almost impossible for properly sized jeans to sag or fall down, so I can’t say that my experience is universal. Still, even though I’m arguing against my own proclamation of functionality above all, I do love a good cinch! 

[bartlebyyphonics]

^^

nice. thanks!

the non-universal nature of fits truly noted! (Just checking excess material wasn't traumatising)

cinch ftw!

got home and quickly measured my old 201s (555 era, early 2000s?)

tagged w.36 (in reality about 34)

front rise 32

back rise 41

so tcb not really slashed front rise too drastically, but...

for me the braces / suspender issue is also quite historical: from a time when clothing was drastically more layered, and one was never only in a t-shirt...

(I too barely wear a t-shirt alone, and intend, even if wearing a shirt untucked and struggling with the braces, to sometimes just hide the braces between a shirt and a t)

as Paul T is listening again: I ask whether you have any good fit pics of 20s in general that you can / wanna share, not levis specific... nor as cosplay reference, more as points of reference / contextualisation

Again not denim but workwear related: I share two more August Sander, again of workers and a workers council in the 1920s, note their extremely layered clothing to hide the suspenders: the trousers aren't massive in volume, but they def look more comfort fit than the squeezed-in bikers of the 50s. I particularly like the maximum front rise there is when it is on show...

I also share a Paul Strand of a canadian fisherman of the 1930s, just to predict how 'unclean' the fit will probably be on my oversizing, going for bigness (but not cosplay)!

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics

[mandel9000]

Not very helpful fit-wise (a friggin horse is blocking the view), but this photo of my granddad (left) and his uncle is from 1929 and too good to not post. This is also the only thread where it’s somewhat relevant. 

 

The horse is called Stella btw. Written on the back. 

[bartlebyyphonics]

^^

beautiful!

[Maynard Friedman]

Although I have no horse in this race (unlike mandel's grandad above), I'll add my £0.02. I've had suspender buttons and really like them, in fact I'm planning to add my clip-on LVC (1937) buttons to my Warehouse 415s (37 cut) when it's their turn in the rotation. I would never wear a belt on any pair with suspender buttons though and for that reason, as long as your thighs can handle it, I'd recommend going TTS or even sizing down as the waist will definitely stretch if you're reliant on the cinch alone (I'd never wear braces either as I don't want to look like a 1980s Weetabix skinhead).

To complicate this further, my current summer jeans are my LVC 1937s, from which I removed the cinch and straps totally and had tapered - I'm a walking contradiction me! 

[bartlebyyphonics]

t-t-t-t-tapered?

[bartlebyyphonics]

^

but beyond my stammer, the violence I have perpetrated on numerous innocent jeans is manifold, so I claim no innocence!

it is with hindsight on the ruins of the past that we are blown into the unknowns pastures of the future...

and cinch advise very welcome!

Edited June 18, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics

[volvo240thebest]

^ I did the same to a pair of LVC 333 dungarees, back then I was an uneducated heathen... They're a nice pair of jeans, which I never wear now because of the taper.

[Maynard Friedman]

Funnily enough, I wear mine regularly because of the taper. If I'd left them as was, I don't think they'd see much leg-time at all.

[volvo240thebest]

45 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Funnily enough, I wear mine regularly because of the taper. If I'd left them as was, I don't think they'd see much leg-time at all.

yeah my taper was done badly and was too much for such a loose pair of jeans. I undesrtand that when done properly it can be a good thing...

[bartlebyyphonics]

and then to court the banhammer

but to express in honesty about moves not in cosplay world

and sharing personal thoughts about personal strategies for competition moving forward beyond buttons...

to point towards more over-size fits that i actually do have time for; Martine Rose, altho she is more 90s retro than 20s repro...

and then also the TuTa of Thayaht as the other key design innovation of the late 1910s going into 1920s (one of the earlier workwear meets fashion collisions... the early jumpsuit which is what a well matched chore coat and jeans can well approximate - i show warehouse devotee delutoro in more 40s style garb as image that fascinates - a pairing for which my 20s are likely destined)

and then to add another image (shared on db earlier): Buck Jones (a 20s move star) posing in the 20s with what looks like an approximate version of the 1880 triple pleat, another potential partner for the garment (and stalwart suspender camouflage) - I wonder if this is what was paired with the 20s jean before the type I came about?

and then lastly, just because, Tsuguharu Fujita, pic from 1927, clearly style wise he was pretty fierce, didn't give a f*************k about big pants, and made damn fine pictures of cats (such as self portrait from 1928)... 

[edit: just to historicise matters further - if reading yr subculture histories like Dick Hebdige, Stuart Hall etc., y'll notice the 50s onwards is a stylistic repudiation of the fathers by the sons, a revolt, part of which is the slimmer fit against the baggy associated with the traditional working class... i think it is with the second summer of love in 90s and excessive consumption of MDMA that baggy come back in full fashion, inc the 'joes bloggs' jeans that rose is touching upon - so wearing a 20s jean like a 50s jean is all confusion to me...]

 

 

Edited June 18, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics

[mrman]

17 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

with the reduction of the rise to 'modern' proportions i wonder whether inoue has designed a wee bit of the functionality out of them

...

it is my understanding that suspended trousers are really meant to be worn up and around the navel area to allow a nice drape. so those choosing no buttons are really going in the flow of the rise reduction, particularly for the taller / longer body

... 

i feel the cinch is the thing i couldnt do without

You just about summed my sentiments and why I prefer them without the buttons

[volvo240thebest]

Fit pic of the 20s provided by nifty do.

That rise looks just as high as I'd personally like it to be.