Tanuki Japan

[chambo2008]

that is the worst part about my natural indigo momotaro collaboration  with blue owl, the hem is 6 inch and i literally pull my jeans down and inside out just to get my feet through.

[erockisalive]

Those seem like they were made specifically to sell to rawdenim reddit. Someone's gonna size down 2 sizes and their feet will turn black and fall off.

[ColonelAngus]

@mikecch

got anymore details on that Oni flannel?

[Cold Summer]

I get why it makes business sense to make something to try to sell to the sneakerhead demographic, but those jeans look ridiculous.

Unless you're making skinny jeans out of a lightweight, stretchy fabric, having such a small leg opening makes zero sense to me.

On the other hand, Tanuki's straight fit actually looks really good.

[meaulnes]

i just got the draft tapered cut in the kaze fabric and i really love them. the silhouette reminds me of orslow's new yorker pant almost exactly. that said, this is denim and i can see it being a polarizing cut for many. i dont think it really works with the zetto fabric - certainly isnt working in that linked picture with the chunky socks lol. but man these KDTs make me happy. 

[mikecch]

On 10/11/2019 at 10:09 AM, ColonelAngus said:

@mikecch

got anymore details on that Oni flannel?

They're 8 oz check twill, fabric that used to feature on Oni's pockets a few years ago.

Denimio is planning to launch them when their new website is fully up I believe.

[ColonelAngus]

@mikecch

Thanks. I saw Denimio plugging this shirt on IG for awhile now but they never really gave details other than 'coming soon.'

Edited October 15, 2019 by ColonelAngus

[mikecch]

@ColonelAngus

I've just been told next Monday. 

[Iron Horse]

On 10/11/2019 at 2:17 AM, cusswords said:

Someone is going to order these online and not be able to fit their feet through the hem. It’s happened a few times over on the raw denim reddit when people taper their jeans so much they don’t account for their feet getting in the jeans. 

"Just use the plastic bag trick."

Peak 2019.

[YossarianRaw]

Does anyone here have a pair of Tanuki's jeans in the Earth denim? I'd like to see how it evolves.

Specfically, if anyone has a pair of ER (Regular cut) jeans of theirs, I'd love to hear how they are.

[mpukas]

On 1/11/2020 at 3:46 PM, dudewuttheheck said:

FW, Warehouse, Tanuki, Viberg x Division Road

What Tanuki jeans - cut and denim? What do you think of them? 

[dudewuttheheck]

@mpukas these are the regular cut with the earth denim. 

As with many 'regular' or 'retro/vintage' cuts that are not made by actual repro brands, the rise is too low. I was sent them a few months ago when my waist was 3" wider and even then, they were slightly loose even after a machine wash. I bought them oversized for a higher rise, but the rise is still too low for me. Other than that, I like the cut. The hip flare is becoming too much on me now, but that obviously wouldn't be a problem with the correct size. 

The denim is nice. My favorite of theirs is their 21oz secret denim collab with Oni, but I like this denim a lot as well. Nice texture and character without any over the top elements. My favorite fabric still goes to the last RJB fabric, but I like this a lot too. Construction is also quite good. I'm working on a full review as well. Basically my only real complaint is the rise which isn't low, just not as high as I would like.

Edited January 14, 2020 by dudewuttheheck

[mpukas]

I have that same pair of Earth Regular Straight, raw, on ice, that I got f/ Denimio's Black Friday sale. I had seen the Earth denim at Canoe Club in Boulder a couple years ago in the High Tapered cut. I liked the denim, and I liked @mikecch in-depth review of that denim. The measurements of the Regular Straight cut were appealing. But I think I have a size too small in a 32. I had tried on a 32 in EHT, and it fit but was snug. My measurements of the ERS are about 1 size smaller than Denimio's. Raw they fit nearly perfectly, the waist is just a little big. Thighs are roomy enough. The rise is fine for me. If they shrink a lot they'll be tighter than I want. Denimio wouldn't exchange since I got them in the sale. They said they'd stretch back out to raw measurements, but I don't find that to always be the case, and that would be mainly in the waist. I need room in the upper thighs. 

I also have the Oni x Tanuki 21.5 HT, raw, on ice. They are 32 also, and prolly a size too small. Again they fit well raw, but I have a feeling that denim will shrink a lot and would be really tight on me. The hem width is narrow. And, I'm unsure what I think about that denim. I get all the geeky stuff about it. and I can't say why but it just doesn't do much for me. It's a loose weave, rough texture, quite neppy. Kinda reminds me of blue burlap. Doesn't seem durable at all. After seeing @cander49 Oni's a couple years ago fall apart after a less than 1 year's wear, I lost interest in Oni. There was so much hype around the OxT collab that when a pair popped up, I jumped on them. 

I've been wearing TFH 3202 20oz for the past 2.5 months daily, and I'm infatuated with this denim. It's skewed my perception of everything else. It's just that they're so freakin' tight I can barely move, and I'm not sure how much longer I can take it. The front crotch seam has already ripped open below the fly. 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah the Oni collab denim is a little more neppy than I would like, but I think the warp and weft colors together are why I like it so much.

 

That Flat Head denim looks brilliant and I would love a pair of those. Shame about the sizing. We have both sized incorrectly, but in the opposite directions

[mpukas]

I'm very surprised you like Tanuki as much as you do. Even, at all... 

[dudewuttheheck]

14 minutes ago, mpukas said:

I'm very surprised you like Tanuki as much as you do. Even, at all... 

I like a lot of jeans that are not strict repro actually. I just don't wear them or buy them too much anymore. I like a lot of Strike Gold fabrics, Tanuki fabrics, Samurai etc and my all time favorite denim fabric is from RJB. I have come close to buying many of them. I still regret not grabbing one of the Samurai 25oz anniversary pairs.

Edited January 14, 2020 by dudewuttheheck

[mpukas]

Since I'm taking pics of denim today, here are some pic of 18oz Earth denim Regular Straight, raw. I'm gonna give them usual soak, hot wash, hot dryer, steam iron routine and see how they turn out. I'll post raw/washed measurements. If they don't shrink TONS and I still get into them after they're dry, I'll try to manage some fit pics. I think this is gonna be a great cut, but I also think these are gonna be a size too small for me at a 32. I bought these thru Denimio's Black Friday sale, and my own measurements came up about 1 size smaller than their on-line measurements. 

I can't really add anything that @mikecch has said is his review. Denim, construction, details, etc. are all top notch. I do love their buttons. I will say this, they're front and back pockets are excellent. Front pocket openings are cut deep enough to easily get your hands in, the pocket bags are deep enough that items don't get caught up in the thigh crease, and the back pockets are deep enough to put a phone/wallet in completely without getting swallowed up. 

[JDelage]

They look nice. Why do a hot wash, etc, if you think they're going to end up too small? Why not simply do cold soaks and cold wash and try to balance shrink & stretch over time?

[mpukas]

I thought about doing just a cold soak/wash to minimize shrinkage, but I'd rather get all of the shrinkage out up front and not have any surprises later. It's my OCD taking over... 

[mpukas]

Just measured the 18oz ERS once completely dry, and they didn't shrink quite as much as I expected. I'd say average everywhere except in length, which at 1" is less than average.

I can get into them and button the fly and waist, but they're really tight across the hips and upper thighs. Waist is fine. A size 33 would suite me better, although then the waist would be on the big side. This is usually the issue I have with most jeans - the proportions of the waist to hips & upper thighs don't work for my frame. Samurai's S510 is the closest I've found to ideal for me. 

Raw, washed for size 32: 

Waist, laid flat: 16.875/33.75, 16.125/32.25 

Waist, front and back aligned: 17.125/34.5, 16.25/32.5 

Front rise: 12.125, 11.5 

Back rise: 15, 14.5 

Thigh @ crotch: 12.75, 12.375 

Thigh 2" down: 11.75, 11.25 

Knee 14" down: 9.25, 8.875 

Hem: 8.25, 8

Inseam: 37.25, 36.25 

[mpukas]

Too small, I think. Prolly with some wear they'll stretch out a bit, but I really didn't want another pair of tight jeans. 

[chambo2008]

What about trying to water them below the hips? My jeans normally have a rise of 10.5 inch so that's what I do? 

[mpukas]

I don't think they'd stretch enough to get them to where I'd want. Thx for the thought. 

[mpukas]

I'm looking to move these for a decent price. I like them enough that I'd to get a size larger. If anyone's interested DM me. 

[YossarianRaw]

I also got the ERs recently and I have the opposite problem - I got them in a size 34 and I should have gotten a 33. They are ever so slightly too big in the waist and have a little too much flare for my liking. 32 I think will be too small unfortunately @mpukas, 33 and I would have jumped on them.

Funnily enough I actually haven't seen anyone get this pair and be satisfied with their size, but that's probably just a coincidence, hah!

[mpukas]

@YossarianRaw - do you have measurements for your 34, and fit pics? Have yours been washed and fully shrunken? A 34 would be way too big for me in the waist, but would have roomy thighs that I'd prefer. A 33 would prolly be best for me too. Comparing their size chart to my own measurements, theirs are about 1 size too big. It seems Denimio used their measurements for their own site. On Tanuki's website, it looks like the ERS is well stocked, and they ship internationally. 

[YossarianRaw]

@mpukas I'll have some pics and measurements for you tomorrow. They were bought as a one-wash version and then I washed them on 40C and 60C to shrink them as much as I could. 

[YossarianRaw]

Att: @mpukas and others.

My Tanuki ER size 34, worn for about a month. 

Bought as one-wash, washed once on 40C and once on 60C - hung dry. No washes or soaks since.

Measurements (BOW-style, except for thighs - I always go past the crotch seam to include all the fabric, so the measurement will be bigger than BOW method):

Waist: 92cm / 36.2in
Thigh: 34cm / 13.4in
Front rise: 32cm / 12.6in
Back rise: 41cm / 16.15in
Inseam: 84cm / 33in (hemmed by Göteborg Manufaktur)

I'm 178cm / 5'10 and weigh around 85kg / 187lbs 

Pics:

Edited February 7, 2020 by YossarianRaw

[mpukas]

They look pretty darn good on you. Def a loose-ish fit, but don't look too big. They'd be too big on me, especially with that waist measurement. Thx for sharing! 

[mpukas]

I'm moving these OTHT Oni x Tanuki 21.5oz Secret Denim High Taper. From the first run about a year ago. One of the very rare raw pairs. Size 32. A size too small for me. DM for deets.