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Denim World Championship - SuFu Division


Max Power

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The DWC site is temporarily off line as a couple of updates to the back stage area killed usability. It is currently being rectified and re-hosted, will be back up soon and no content will be lost. Apologies for any inconvenience.

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Ok, so I got the Iron Heart DWC x UHR jeans on (finally) and went out to take the dog a walk in them to have a feel of the fit, a few quick notes and initial impressions....

 
- The denim in INCREDIBLE, soft hand but stiff, lots of colour depth and you just know that it was made to fade.
- Through the leg they fit better than any other jeans I have ever owned, period.
- The top block is insanely tight at the moment, if I get a bit of stretch in the waist and upper thighs I will be the happiest man alive.
- Conversely if I don't, there is no way I'll be able to wear these for 2 years without dropping weight.
- I will drop weight for these as I love them that much.
 
I was going to wear my 25oz Samurai's for the contest, but the fit on these will be so good when I've dropped a few pounds that I'm going to choose these.
 
Pics as soon as I find a photographer.....

 

@MagaGav - are the contest DWCxUHR the same as the IHxB01xUHR with the exception of the patch? The detail pics look like they are the exact same pics for each model, except for the patch pic. 

 

I've been checking them out at IHUK, and I really like a lot of the details on this model. I especially like the bronze colored rivets and buttons (maybe they are patina'ed copper) - especially the buttons. I don't care for the standard silver-ish buttons much, honestly. 

 

What are your thoughts on the UHR denim vs the XHS denim?

 

Cheers! mpp

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They are indeed the same jeans with a different patch, the DWC pre orders were also cheaper than the standard jeans.

 

I think the UHR denim suits the buster cut more than the XHS denim (and I loved my MBB's), as sized correctly it gives a much tidier fit. I've only worn them for just over a day but they seem about the same in terms of breathability (better than the weight would suggest), the denim also has more colour depth when new.

 

On first impressions, I prefer the UHR but time will tell.

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cool, thanks for the info. There're so many cool jeans, I'm scratching my head wondering why I'm putting myself into this comp and wear one pair for 2 years. Huh???!!! 

 

I've sent my 634-XHS for a hem and a taper to 8" leg opening. I also had them hemmed 1" longer than usual for me (34" inseam this time). Anxious to see how they fit/look when finished... 

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mpukas- who is doing the tapering and hemming?

Rail Car Fine Goods - Steven Dang. 

 

I've had him do some other hemming and tapering for me, and Steven does a top notch job. 

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They can't regulate what you wear day in and day out, but you'll only be judged on the pair you set your thread up for.

I originally created a thread for, and intended to compete in, a pair of Samurai 711. However, I was fortunate enough to grab one of the 37 pair of Iron Heart duck 634. Unless the fit is totally off whack from the posted specs, I'm likely going to opt for competing in the Iron Heart because the thigh and rise are more to my liking That's not to say I still won't wear my 711 from time to time over the next two years.

Edited by Projectp
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Wait, so during the competition we can't wear any other jeans than the como pair?

You can but you have to wear them over your competition jeans or alternatively cut a hole in the crutch big enough for your head and wear them as a jacket .

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They can't regulate what you wear day in and day out, but you'll only be judged on the pair you set your thread up for.

I originally created a thread for, and intended to compete in, a pair of Samurai 711. However, I was fortunate enough to grab one of the 37 pair of Iron Heart duck 634. Unless the fit is totally off whack from the posted specs, I'm likely going to opt for competing in the Iron Heart because the thigh and rise are more to my liking That's not to say I still won't wear my 711 from time to time over the next two years.

 

This, I won't actually be spying on contestants.

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Alright guys, Here’s a full detail breakdown of my custom Companion Denim jeans.

 

I went with a custom pattern made to measurements I provided. Luckily I didn't screw anything up, and the fit is exactly what I wanted! I think the materials are everything, and they speak for themselves. 

 

The denim is an 18oz Super Slubby Japanese denim from Amhot Mills, and this was just about all that Iu could buy. I told myself I’d never buy sanforized again, but the denim has more character in look and feel than many unsanforized fabrics I’ve seen or handled. The pocket bags are a Japanese Hickory stripe. The seam bindings are a European chambray. I’m not sure the origin of the duck canvas on the waistband and fly. I can’t wait to see the inside age just as much as the out. 

 

The construction is almost entirely 'single needle', but the buttonhole and bartack machine technically only used a single needle as well. The decorative stitching is based on styles of the turn of the century, with some important modern details mixed in. All seams are hand felled and enclosed, so there are no raw edges. The waistband and fly take inspiration from classic tailoring with a split waistband, inside binding, and sew button on the fly. 

 

The hem is lined with a deadstock hemp rope. The origin of this detail is unclear, but it’s assumed to prevent the hem ripping from using cowboy boots. Whatever the original purpose, more strength is undeniable. I imagine there will be less of a ‘roping’ effect in the way it ages, but more pronounced and evenly rounded. I’ll probably cut the runoff down a few inches after the first soak just to be safe. I was initially skeptical of the rope hanging there, but It’s grown on me quite a bit, and nice to have some focus on the inseam. Selvedge doesn’t need all the glory! 

 

The back pockets have hidden rivets and initially tonal arcuates. They are not stitched on, but embroidered and raised, so they will become extremely pronounced as they fade with abrasion. They’re shaped like the classic Companion ‘nerve’ lines, but with loops in the center for a little more decoration. 

 

The leather Patch was engraved by a leatherworker out of Majorca Island. Each letter was done by hand from a set of rare vintage military stamp letters. It is a natural veg tan that Iu hand oiled and polished the edges. 

 

The hardware is is all raw copper (excluding the sew button), and the rivets are hand hammered with veg tan leather washers. The standard fly buttons are all casted with a laurel leaf and star. The buckle is a Japanese YKK and looks to be either deadstock or antiqued brass. The sew button is made from Corozo nut, or ‘vegetable ivory.’ 

 

It’s hard to tell from the photo’s, but Iu’s finishing throughout is immaculate, even more so impressive on fabrics so heavy. I couldn’t be more honored to represent such an underrated maker. I kind of have a tough time not wetting these jeans when I pull them on.

 

Album: http://imgur.com/a/HrME4

Edited by Jmbeane
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Dude that is just crazy. What a great pair, unique details without looking tacky or over the top when worn, especially since most are hidden from plain view. I really like the tonal arcs and the back buckle with the rope design, especially because the thread color looks really great on the denim. The whole back has a very cool tex mex kind of vibe to my eyes. That pair is right up my alley. The back pockets look a bit too huge for my taste, but I like the spade form. Personally I'd feel the sew button fly would be too much hassle for daily wear, but it certainly is unique. I never heard of that hemp hem lining before, great stuff.

 

Oh and the fit looks pretty nice too ;)

 

 

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Official Contest Tee's


 


The amazing contest tee's are available from our friends at DoubleXX, and are by far the best contest tee's we've had so far. Check them out.


 


http://wearedoublexx.com/dwc-x-doublexx/


 


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^^ jmbeane what an amazing pair, craftmanship, design and details are absolutely top notch. Fabric although sanforized has character. I look forward to see how these jeans will evolve over the course of the contest.

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I’m joining the BWC with these Sendra 2966 western boots in what they call “Sprinter Tang†leather. These are my fourth pair of Sendra, currently I own these and a pair of harness boots. My first Sendras were another pair of harness boots that I wore to pieces over 10 or 15 years.

 

Sendra is a Spanish bootmaker that is known for cowboy and biker boots. The Sprinter leather has a soft, matte surface. They’re goodyear welted and “handmade in Spainâ€.

 

Here’s a couple glamour shots after 10-15 amnesty wears. I plan to wear them 2-3 times per week over the next two years – and considering the quality of the craftmanship they’ll probably still be only at the beginning of their evo by then. Sendra is considered a “for life†brand if they’re taken proper care of.

 

These have been conditioned once right after I got them. No further treatment yet apart from occasional brushing off.

 

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Full album is here: https://imgur.com/a/N9pj4#0

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Alright guys, just signed up and I'm putting my Ooe Yofukuten OA02XX's in.

Entered the middleweight category, as that should be correct. (14.5 oz. prewash, so whatever that brings them to post soak)

Today will be the 26th day of wear on them, I held out so that I could wear them right up until the start of the contest.

Interested to see how gnome's and my pairs look in comparison to one another over two years!

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Alright guys, just signed up and I'm putting my Ooe Yofukuten OA02XX's in.

Entered the middleweight category, as that should be correct. (14.5 oz. prewash, so whatever that brings them to post soak)

Today will be the 26th day of wear on them, I held out so that I could wear them right up until the start of the contest.

Interested to see how gnome's and my pairs look in comparison to one another over two years!

 

the OA.denim is 13,5oz pre-wash ;)

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I actually had to wash my contest pair. Was helping a friend with a photo shoot and fell waist deep into a lake off some rocks..... I'm more upset about the grimey disgusting algae that I had to scrape off....

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naaa, won't be too bad I think!

better make sure to get rid of all the algae! i heard about some crazy stuff that infects people's skin..... :D

Oh those things got a pretty severe cleaning.

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Okay guys I need help deciding on which shirt to pick for the Tux division.

First up is a Tellason Clampdown 10.5oz overdyed cone mills denim. It even has some slub to it. It's very stiff from all the starch. (Note the combs after only a few wears) Triple needle construction. Hidden knife and pencil slot in the front pockets.

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Second up is a Studio D Artisan 11oz Japanese denim work shirt. This is much softer and lighter weave. Has 2 hidden buttons, cig pocket, pencil slot, banded collar, selvedge run off on the side seams. More stuff I'm forgetting.

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They're two total different fits and styles, tellason being more like a light coat and SDA being a fitted denim shirt. Neither have enough wears to have a proper drape/fit yet so they both look a little odd in the pictures.

So I'm in need of a new belt and it got me to thinking about being a little crafty. I'm going to make myself a natural tanned 8oz belt.

I decided whY not pass on the idea to sufu and make up a bunch of belts for the team sufu division of the contest. you'd be able to pick your width,buckle and hardware color. The keeper will be natural leather as well. A "sufu" stamp will be put somewhere on the belt.

They unfortunately won't be ready for the start of the contest but I can have them ready for late may at the latest depending on how fast people get me info and money. I'll wait for a few days to see what intrest is like and update with prices in the next day or two.

Sorry for the lengthy post!!

Edited by itschrisb
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