Shoes that look better with age...

[devilish]

This place in NYC is very highly recommended by some very knowledgeable folks.  http://www.bnelsonshoes.com/ I have a pair of C&J that I bought second hand that had been resoled by them and it is a beautiful job. Probably better than the originals.

[shredwin_206]

You have a lot of choice in Seattle. Spokane for whites, danner near by, bakers in Eugene, wesco up that way too.... You can get measured and fitted for all of those.

Thanks I forgot about Whites and Bakers I'll look into them as well!

[coleslawyum]

I would be careful about using B. Nelson. My experience with them has been, lets say, uneven. They are not cheap either, but I think they can only handle dress shoes with thin soles. Even with a pair of Alden's, they had trouble understanding what I wanted.

 

I did have them resole a pair of Grensons with a Dainite sole which they did a passable job on. This pair needed a new insole, and it cost about $180.

 

They seem to have a very crappy outsole stitcher, where the tension is not calibrated correctly, so all the stitching is uneven. I got sick and tired of the shoddy craftsmanship, so I just send all my shoes to Japan.

 

You can also try and contact my man out in LA, (instagram handle BrianTheShoemaker). He's a young cat, but he really knows and cares about shoe construction, more these old farts who are used to giving crappy service for years.

Edited August 27, 2013 by coleslawyum

[devilish]

Well, it sounds as though you have more direct experience with them than I do, so I will defer to that. Like I said the one pair I have are done really well. Double leather sole, metal toe plate and an inset rubber heal section. Everything fits together perfectly and the sole stitch is bang on. Maybe that's their forte and other types of work which is more out of their realm is risky.

 

I too have heard good reports about Brian The Shoemaker so that might be a better choice.

[Aries]

Just received my boondockers, fantastic service from Morgan et al over at Viberg.

 

Lovely little touches like the hand-written note, inserts and some boot wax. 

[devilish]

First pair of Viberg's that I've actually liked the look of. Properly balanced with no weird toe box. Congrats.

[Aries]

Thanks mate, these are also the first boots I've owned with zero break-in time, I've just put them on and they're like slippers.

 

Now to rough them up and get some indigo stains.

[CrashTestBrummie]

CTB just killed this thread...Someone make a new/redux one!

 

Mate, been meaning to do that for ages...and that's the slimmed-down version of the collection now that I've shifted a few pairs. There are a couple of pairs there that really aren't 'needed' but I haven't yet been able to let them go...

 

 

Brummmie - my god!!

Where did you find the vintage military boots?

Has the leather reformed to your feet?

 

Well, the ones I've worn the most have been the Lotus boots at the back of the one photo (saw a lot of wear in the snow, along with the Galways) and now the Tricker's brogue boots, and I've had no problems with them.

 

Worth noting that those country boots would probably have had less wear than regular shoes from that period as there was, in the UK at least, a distinct sense of 'proper wear' for the right occasions so a shooting boot like a veldtschoen model would only have been worn when out in the field. Of course, this would have been a lot of the time during wartime but even then, they wouldn't have been worn 'casually' as in when not on duty.

 

Most of the vintage stuff was found on eBay with the exception of the foremost pair of Lotus boots in the relevant pic which I got from the Vintage Showroom in London. Ironically, they cost more than any other second-hand pair that I own and have barely been worn by me...

 

 

fuck me brummie, that is a lot of dead cow....

 

Yeah, and a little bit of horse arse, too!

[Noodle36]

Brummie - My Dad was born in 35.  He tells stories about how they used to walk to school in bare feet then put their shoes on when they got to the school.  He had to wear Black "Dress" shoes and they had to be shined.  They did not have enough money to have the shoes resoled so to prolong the life they would walk without them.  On top of this it was uphill both ways and always snowing!! (haha)

[summ3rhays]

Vibergs are coming along.

 

[Crat]

X-post from boots comp.

[Aries]

Can anyone walk me through how to take care of rough out leather?

 

Packed with my Vibergs was a jar of heavy duty leather preservative. It's a beeswax-esque substance.

 

Applying it to the boots with my fingers, my boots now have splotchy dark patches across each boot, more or less entirely coated.

 

Do I now just wait for them to dry for a certain time?

 

I read that you can use a hairdryer on them now, and then go over them with a wire brush.

 

Does that sound about right?

[CrashTestBrummie]

Can anyone walk me through how to take care of rough out leather?

 

Packed with my Vibergs was a jar of heavy duty leather preservative. It's a beeswax-esque substance.

 

Applying it to the boots with my fingers, my boots now have splotchy dark patches across each boot, more or less entirely coated.

 

Do I now just wait for them to dry for a certain time?

 

I read that you can use a hairdryer on them now, and then go over them with a wire brush.

 

Does that sound about right?

 

Not sure the wire brush will do much if they're still coated apart from create tracks but I know the heat from the hairdryer will help even the wax out. If it's sunny, just leave them in direct sunlight for a few hours instead.

[Aries]

Thanks CTB, hairdryer worked a charm.

[coleslawyum]

Another year…

 

Chippewa

 

 

Chippewa

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Wing

 

 

 

[hollowsleather]

The difference that the buckles and sole work make is *crazy*.  Especially the Red Wings.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[coleslawyum]

Regarding Okuyama-san, what are the options for re-lasting when he does a re-sole? Wondering about what stock lasts he might have. What are the lead times roughly? Thanks...

I've never had a discussion with him regarding lasts, but I imagine he has quite a few since he mentions them a lot on his blog. He's taken a lot of trips to the Red Wing factory as well as Viberg, so more than likely he has his hands on a lot of them.

 

When he's busy, the lead time is about 2 months +. When he's not so busy a little less than a month, but the last time I spoke with him, he's been trying to catch up for a year.

 

 

The difference that the buckles and sole work make is *crazy*.  Especially the Red Wings.

Thanks! I agree, they give it a little more flavor than stock boots. I can't image Red Wing making a pair like that. It would be so cost inefficient.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[coleslawyum]

No problem!

 

Okuyama-san does speak a little English, with a little help from his wife, they can answer most questions. I mostly speak to him in Japanese, but I also send him pictures as well. He's trained as a shoemaker, so he can pretty much do it all. I'm looking forward to seeing what you got in store.

[garden gnomes in space]

I second the difference a sole job makes.  your boots are always a pleasure to observe.  

[garden gnomes in space]

Can anyone walk me through how to take care of rough out leather?

 

Packed with my Vibergs was a jar of heavy duty leather preservative. It's a beeswax-esque substance.

 

Applying it to the boots with my fingers, my boots now have splotchy dark patches across each boot, more or less entirely coated.

 

Do I now just wait for them to dry for a certain time?

 

I read that you can use a hairdryer on them now, and then go over them with a wire brush.

 

Does that sound about right?

honestly, I have had a pair of rough out Whites oxfords for over a year and have not done shit to them.  I have a nylon bristled kitchen sink brush that gets used from time to time to remove build up, but thats about it.  

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[fre-co]

where from?

 

Found it http://shop-braintrust.com/

Edited August 30, 2013 by fre-co

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[coleslawyum]

Aside from the Algonquin apron toe... a passing resemblance to the Indy? Most likely better made too! 

 

For sure, if it's a hand sewn welt, its already better than most things made on an assembly line. The leather is Badalassi, veggie tanned leather. I guess they missed the point of a rugged work boot, but that what I like about them.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Aries]

Hey chaps, after the advice on treating rough out, I thought I'd give a before and after just for anyone thinking about doing it. I should point out I used leather preservative (Viberg's own brand), and not official "dubbin". Less light today but honestly that difference in shade is about right even in same lighting conditions. Before: After:

Edited August 31, 2013 by Aries

[Double 0 Soul]

Camping trip last weekend.

Edited August 31, 2013 by Double 0 Soul

[superfuzz]

Hey Coleslaw, how often do you have your boots resoled?