Steel Feather MiJ - Heavy Oz denim

[Anders Helseth]

My fellow Superfuturians,
it's about time I let you in on a project of mine that's been in the works for about a year. However, it's been on my mind to do something like this since I first really got into Japanese denim. Naturally, this project is strongly influenced by the knowledge amassed on this very forum; as well as having drawn inspiration from it by the bucket loads. This essence I've used to create my Steel Feather jeans: highly vintage inspired and detailed, raw and unsanforized; made by hand by veteran Japanese craftsmen in small Kojima in Okayama.

I also would like to give my fellow SUFU-members a peek of what goes on "behind the scene", such as showing you the Kojima denim veterans who made Steel Feather happen; for without their know-how and skills I'd still just be dreaming about doing this project. If you've got any questions, please post them in the thread or to me directly.

Steel Feather SF0121
The cut is a slim and slightly tapered fit. For you guys with muscular legs, the jeans leg is somewhat narrow; PM me for advice on sizing. These are some of the featured details:

• 21oz Japanese selvage denim. Toyoda loom woven by a small family-owned mill in Okayama; 3/- x 3/- tight woven denim, using a blend of the finest American cotton; this denim will weigh up to 23oz after full shrinkage, but is very breathable even in hot weather
• Unsanforized; will shrink to tagged size
• Chameleon hickory pocket bags and lined back yoke; the hickory stripes in this fabric will fade to reveal various shades of coloring (see separate post in this thread)
• 1940s Conmar-style zipper, with grey mélange cotton tape
• WWII replica 1-star Laurel Wreath top button
• “Train track†split back pockets
• Hidden back pocket rivets
• 100 % cotton stitching alternating lemon yellow and golden orange
• Embossed Natural cowhide leather patch; design featuring a template from an old 1800’s advertisement
• Hem chainstitched by a Union Special 43200 G
• Crafted by hand in Okayama, Japan
• Design by Anders Helseth (me)

Steel Feather SF0121 - the first edition pictures

Edited November 19, 2013 by ordo

[Maynard Friedman]

Well done surrealizm, hats off to you. I'll watch this with interest.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Finally you started the thread! Looking really forward to all the stuff you have to show

[beeetus]

I like the cut. Looks nice and trim.

[DFreshLeish]

Glad to see there's finally a thread for these! Can't wait to see what they do, I know you've put a lot into them

[zendeen]

yeahh finally..nice fit anyway..more teaser..

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

Great stuff. Can't wait to see more pics of these and hear how things develop.

[Anders Helseth]

Thanks for showing an interest guys; I really appreciate it. I know I promised evo pics, but since my gf is away there won't be any of those until after this Easter. For now I will post pictures of the details of a totally raw pair of Steel Feather jeans, and start it off with my patch design:

(Above: patch design is based on a template of an old advertising poster; I think from around 1820s)

(Above: frontal shot of the top block of my Steel Feather jeans)

(Above: US43200G chainstitched hems; the thick 21oz fabric is a challenge to do a 4 x rolled vintage hem, but as seen in this pic: it can be done!)

(Above: the inside details; the back yoke is lined with hickory striped fabric, as you can see. More details about this wonderful deadstock fabric soon!)

(Above: the pocket bags; same fabric as the yoke. Check out the color nuances!)

(Above: split back pocket; yes, it is selvage!)

To be continued...

Edited April 9, 2012 by Surrealizm

[Anders Helseth]

(Above: inside of the split back pocket)

(Above: lined pocket openings in a white cotton twill fabric)

(Above: some US43200G magic!)

(Above: classic 1-star laurel wreath donut hole button of the WWII-era)

(Above: a replica of Conmar 1940s style brass zipper, with grey melange cotton zipper tape; these are all custom made to order)

This is all I have to show for now; back with more after Easter.

[Flash]

Love the dual colour stitching mate

[rayw44]

I'm liking the details, especially the split back pocket and the lined pocket opening.

Can't wait to see more.

[hollowsleather]

Looking good! Those traintrack pockets are going to blow minds.

[redragon]

Like the neat construction of the denim and the details very much.

[beeetus]

Great new pictures. I'm super impressed.

[lance]

i like the back pocket detail, cool idea. lookin forward to production/sales.

[arcarsenal]

echoing the love for the details you've put into these jeans. the lined yoke, pocket openings and that split back pocket are too cool. great stuff!

[RABIND]

great piece! nicely built. same with Lance, really digging the back pocket

[Quoise1203]

love the split back pocket opening. Agreed that the train tracks will look great!

[kslo]

These look amazing! Great little details.

[jbanger]

following this with interest......

[boriori]

Looks amazing.

Just like everyone else, love the detail on the back pocket.

[Turntabloid]

love the fit and details!

[Anders Helseth]

Thanks again to all the above for your positive comments!

Here are a couple more close-ups:

(Above: warp side of the 21oz denim; some "loom chatter" going on)

(Above: weft side of the denim; look at those fibres)

(Above: Steel Feather's "rasuberry-mimi"; the raspberry colored selvage ID)

[xEMBx]

Nice...

[TheGanjaLife]

nice!

[fins]

very nice & neat construction!

Love the design of the leather patch and the split back pocket detail.

[Anders Helseth]

The cut for my jeans is a slim and slightly tapered fit. These are some of the featured details on the Steel Feather "SF0121":

• 21oz Japanese selvage denim woven on a Toyoda loom by a small family owned mill in Okayama; 3/- x 3/- tight woven denim (up to 23oz after full shrinkage) - more info to come on this denim!
  
• Unsanforized; will shrink up to 8 % with washing
  
• Chameleon Hickory pocket bags and lined back yoke; the hickory stripes in this fabric will fade to reveal various shades of coloring - more info to come on this fabric!
  
• 1940s Conmar-style zipper, with grey mélange cotton tape
  
• WWII replica Laurel Wreath top button
  
• “Train track†split back pockets
  
• Hidden back pocket rivets
  
• 100 % cotton stitching alternating lemon yellow and golden orange
  
• Embossed Natural cowhide leather patch; design featuring a template from an old 1800’s advertisement
  
• Hem chainstitched by a Union Special 43200 G
  
• Crafted by hand in Okayama, Japan
  

This info has also been added to the topmost post.

[Anders Helseth]

Here's a cross-post with some pictures of my Union Special 43200 G, which some of you might not have seen yet.

Hey guys,

I've had a Union Special 43200G for a while now, and feel confident enough to offer my hemming services. I only have pure cotton thread available, and can do yellow/yellow and orange/yellow combos. Thread is Japanese, and high quality. My little workshop is at my home, and consists of myself, my US 43200G, and a pair of micro-serrated scissors for fabric cutting purposes.

Edited April 18, 2012 by Surrealizm

[Mixture]

good stuff surrealizm - the fit and construction is spot on.

i want a pair now!

[Medine]

wow packed with features. but in a good subtle way. cant beat it!