Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Busted Seam]

I think you have asked before, but still.

THere are certain standard models, notably the 33, 47, 55 and 67 that turn up in raw version at least one out of every two seasons. Most shops stock enough that they have the raw in all the time. No one here can tell the future, not me anyway, but if they dont' have the raw 47 in fall 09, they'll have it in spring 10, and most of the major dealers will stock it throughout.

[Dr_Heech]

It's about time they stocked the raw '22 model.

[LeatherSeatBelt]

Heres my 55s. The denim is much different than my 33s. My 55s are from fall 06 and are really nice. Great denim. The 33s have 10 oz raw denim (the correct weight) about 12 oz now but I wouldn't call them flimsy. They're tough as nails, just not as heavy. My 55s were 12 oz raw 14.5 or so now.

They look a ton better now.

im confused. denim weight can go up with a wash??

[Busted Seam]

SImple version: Weight is usually measured per square yard. When the fabric shrinks, approx 10%, it stays the same weight - but that square yard is now 0.9 x 0.9 = 0.81 square yards. SO weight per square yard has gone up by 1/.81 or 20%...

[ThomasK]

http://www.zimbio.com/pictures/UMXRhHQO-Tt/Apple+Unveils+iPhone+Software+Developers+Kit/4FOcHRhuUMK/Steve+Jobs

How do you think did he wash his jenas? SO that the the indigo went out but the jeans didn't get hard fades. And What I like about those is this nice effect on the outside seam.

I would expect he washed regularly. Did he use detergent? Inside out?

[jstavrin]

I'm guessing he washes and wears his jeans like a normal person?

[cottoncraft]

nothin special here- just for fun but great jeans.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

i wish i´d live in japan:

http://www.e-levi.jp/shop/mens/item/view/shop_product_id/3541/category_id/21

[airfrogusmc]

i wish i´d live in japan:

http://www.e-levi.jp/shop/mens/item/view/shop_product_id/3541/category_id/21

Get a pair from Dejan I think he still has some from last year. I also think both the US made and Japanese mase are using hte same denim.

OPPS I stand corrected theses have different denim. Paul said in an earlier post somewhere that the folks that were involved with the US version went through a good deal to get the denim on the 20s 201 right as compared to originals. I have a pair of 555s and the denim is just incredible. I don't know about the this version. We've seen LVC Japan do some really good things and also some not so good just like US LVC but the 200 series is one of LVC US finer efforts.

[Dr_Heech]

AF

You'll never see that denim used on the 555 201 again, even the 2007 edition, although very close, isn't the same.

BTW, sold my 2005 editions for less than half the original price!

(..ahh, ebay is a cruel mistress)

Really startin to like my modified 1927's though....

[Busted Seam]

The Japanese denim looks much more generic, not unlike the Kurabo denim used on the 1901; it's darker and less green. Will be interesting to see how it fades but on first glance it looks quite ordinary. The US 201 has nicer stitching - a real short stitch length that is very distincitve. THe Japan jeans look a narrower cut though which is not entirely a bad thing.

Someone ought to lift those pics and put them on the 201 thread, if you've got a photobucket account. Would be interesting to compare the detailing.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=32894

[Dr_Heech]

Busted,

Can you tell me, is the Kurabo denim meant to replicate the original denim from the new hampshire mills? Amoskeag? (spelling?)

[Busted Seam]

Yes! Amoskeag sounds right. It can oly be an approximation because the Amoskeag denim was natural indigo, and has more of a green cast. Most of the early Kurabo repro denim is syhnthetic indigo. LVC generally use Kurabo for the jeans up to 1927, Cone for later - there's a Cone 1915, because both Amoeskeag and COne were supplying over that period I think.

Looking at the originals on the 201 thread, I would say the old fabric for the 201 gets very close - airfrog said that's kurabo too i think.

[airfrogusmc]

the 55s now

[airfrogusmc]

The Japanese denim looks much more generic, not unlike the Kurabo denim used on the 1901; it's darker and less green. Will be interesting to see how it fades but on first glance it looks quite ordinary. The US 201 has nicer stitching - a real short stitch length that is very distincitve. THe Japan jeans look a narrower cut though which is not entirely a bad thing.

Someone ought to lift those pics and put them on the 201 thread, if you've got a photobucket account. Would be interesting to compare the detailing.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=32894

Yeah the denim on my 1917s really remind me a lot of the denim that was on my 1901s (early). Well I think the originals were pretty full in the seat and legs. I would highly recommend scoring a pair of these 1917s. These are really nice.

[Dr_Heech]

Yes! Amoskeag sounds right. It can oly be an approximation because the Amoskeag denim was natural indigo, and has more of a green cast. Most of the early Kurabo repro denim is syhnthetic indigo. LVC generally use Kurabo for the jeans up to 1927, Cone for later - there's a Cone 1915, because both Amoeskeag and COne were supplying over that period I think.

Looking at the originals on the 201 thread, I would say the old fabric for the 201 gets very close - airfrog said that's kurabo too i think.

Yeah, my early denims - 1880's, 1886's, (early) 1901's and 1917's look similar in material, although the 1901's are VERY darl compared to any other denim in my collection.

Although the 1890's I have from 2005 seem different, like the 201 denim on the 555's - were they made from Kurabo do you think?

. And where was the denim made for the late 90's 1873 1st blue (natual indigo) made?

[Busted Seam]

Y

. And where was the denim made for the late 90's 1873 1st blue (natual indigo) made?

According to Paul T's book, that was Kurabo too. I don't think anyone here has mentioend any other suplier apart from Kaihara, who do the Sanforized fabric (plus some LVC Japan, including the 1937, at least the distressed version).

[Dr_Heech]

AF,

When you score a pair of 1915's in August, can you let me know how the front pocket depth is comparirive to the 1917's. I know I keep muttering on about it, but the only thing that bugs me about the 17's is those shallower front pockets (..and I LOVE the deep front pockets on all the other year models)

[Dr_Heech]

According to Paul T's book, that was Kurabo too. I don't think anyone here has mentioend any other suplier apart from Kaihara, who do the Sanforized fabric (plus some LVC Japan, including the 1937, at least the distressed version).

Cheers,

I guess that if the early 201 fabric was produced by Kurabo, then the 1890's I mentioned earlier must also be made there?

[vivaloschet]

Get a pair from Dejan I think he still has some from last year. I also think both the US made and Japanese mase are using hte same denim.

OPPS I stand corrected theses have different denim. Paul said in an earlier post somewhere that the folks that were involved with the US version went through a good deal to get the denim on the 20s 201 right as compared to originals. I have a pair of 555s and the denim is just incredible. I don't know about the this version. We've seen LVC Japan do some really good things and also some not so good just like US LVC but the 200 series is one of LVC US finer efforts.

Airfrog, do the American ones from earlier seasons have the flat-topped rivets as shown on the japanese pair?

[Dr_Heech]

Airfrog, do the American ones from earlier seasons have the flat-topped rivets as shown on the japanese pair?

Hi, I will give you an answer in Airfrogs absence. The Japanese rivets on the 1922 models and earlier are the correct type flat topped ones with indentations, presumably where the head of the riveter pushes into the metal when two parts are joined. None of the US made ones have this authentic feature, unfortunately, which is a shame as it's a nice touch.

The earliest rivet types on the US made Lvc are the 'Pat. May 1873' stamped ones (models: 1873, 1880 + 1886). The next type are the L.S. & co early type (models: 1890 + 1901 + 1917, I think - will have to check).

Then there's a slight change on the reverse of the rivet from the models 1927 upwards until the 1963 model.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

i know that flat topped rivets had been used with the 2005 1890s, but unfortunately not with this years version... from time to time there are original 201s from the 1890s at ebay, these show also those rivets...

btw. 3 rivets on my 99 1873 are flat topped...

[Dr_Heech]

i know that flat topped rivets had been used with the 2005 1890s, but unfortunately not with this years version... from time to time there are original 201s from the 1890s at ebay, these show also those rivets...

btw. 3 rivets on my 99 1873 are flat topped...

Thanks Sympathy.

Yeah, I stand corrected There are flat topped rivets on the 1873 duck, 1873 natural indigo (555), and synthetic indigo (822) models. Also the 1886's. Those rivets on the 2005 1890 model are unique in that it's the only version of the US made 501 that has featured them.

But as I said, none of the US made models have the correct rivets with indentations on the top (female) part.

There was a Japanese raw 1922 501xx which is awesome - now sold out on the Raktuen website..

[Dr_Heech]

The rivets on the the early jeans and jackets (1873-1886) look like these from the 1873 duck pant -

hope this helps..

[vivaloschet]

Yeah, the rivets on earlier LVC have always bothered me. I was under the impression that the flattop rivet was a feature through the 1920s and even early 1930s. It doesn't surprise me that LVC cuts costs by using the same rivets on pretty much every model.

[airfrogusmc]

AF,

When you score a pair of 1915's in August, can you let me know how the front pocket depth is comparirive to the 1917's. I know I keep muttering on about it, but the only thing that bugs me about the 17's is those shallower front pockets (..and I LOVE the deep front pockets on all the other year models)

Will do Dr H...

[airfrogusmc]

rivets on my 1886s

[Dr_Heech]

Yeah, the rivets on earlier LVC have always bothered me. I was under the impression that the flattop rivet was a feature through the 1920s and even early 1930s. It doesn't surprise me that LVC cuts costs by using the same rivets on pretty much every model.

With Lvc US at least, they do some great things with some of the denim and some of the details, but it is rather frustrating when they leave out quite obvious ones (this thread is full of examples..)

But as Salaami has pointed out before, levis have been cutting corners with their products since 1955, when they replaced the leather patch on the waistband with the cardstock type, and by 1966, when they removed the back pocket (hidden) rivets - craftsmenship really took a nosedive.

[Busted Seam]

Were all the rivets flat-topped from the 20s? I thought there were photos of originals on this thread showing the round-topped rivets... maybe on the 201.

I know I've seen round-topped rivets on 1933-era jeans - do we have any photos of originals from the 10s or 20s?

[Busted Seam]

More LVC on sale in the UK. £69-75 for the raw 1890 (with the big pocket) and the skinny 501ZXX - in a not-bad wash...

http://www.triads.co.uk/mens-32/casual-18/denim-143/levis-vintage-1890s-501xx-44601.htm