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Papa Nui, Lee, Fullcount, vans

chopper pants en route. I told Seichiro I was hesitant because I love everything but the plastic buttons on the fly. I’ve had other pieces where the buttons crack and break over time due to the washing and drying. He said he can replace them for me. He always goes above and beyond.

SC1945 - RMC - Rebuilt Lb40s - Duke - RW

Bound, TCB 50s, cons

Tender x4, Ballpark, Hollows, Russell

Desperately hoping denim jacket appropriate weather will return soon I’m tired of sweating in my office Ebbets Field/J Press/Hollows/Sugar Cane M41001/Tony Lama Gold Labels

Astros cap, JCrew tee, Flat Head chambray western short sleeve, Hollows belt, Flat Head 3003xx, New Balance USA.

Disclaimer: following is google translate from the book, so possibly some thing is lost in translation. This happened after the armistice between the Korean and Japanese wars, so it is outside the scope of this book, but in February 1955, the industry's standards for denim weight suddenly changed. The specifications of denim haven't changed, the calculation method has changed. According to Figure C5-1 in the newspaper, the area of denim fabric, "28 inches wide x 36 inches long" (=0.78 x 1.0 yard), was previously used as the standard for weight (ounces), but this was changed to "36 inches wide x 36 inches long" (=1.0 x 1.0 yard). The newspaper emphasized that there was no change in the fabric itself. It seems that both workwear manufacturers and denim manufacturers responded to this change at the same time. Until then, denim manufacturers had used a 28-inch woven width as the standard, and it seems that they had customarily used the old standard value of "28 x 36 inches" (=0.78 x 1.0 yard) because it was easy to manage on site. As time passed, the performance of looms improved and wider denim could be woven, so it may have been unified into a new standard value of "36 x 36 inches" (= 1.0 x 1.0 yard) which is easier to convert for denim with different woven widths. After the Korean War ended in a ceasefire, denim production increased and various types of denim began to circulate, and February 1955 was the time when the industry standardized the labeling system. Looking at advertisements from workwear manufacturers at the time, we can see that starting in February 1955, denim weights gradually changed from "9-10 ounces" to "13-14 ounces" (Lee, Wrangler, Montgomery Ward, Sreas, J.C. Penney, and others also changed). It seems likely that Levi's 501XX guarantee tickets also changed from "10 ounces" around this time. Also, in "Lee Riders Lot 101 (c.1955)" (see page 29), which is shown at the beginning of this book, As mentioned above, flashers marked 133/4 ounces were later labeled "SQUARE YARD WEIGHT." One wonders whether this sudden change caused any confusion in the workwear industry, but it appears that nothing unusual occurred. For example, in 1951, seven major denim manufacturers gathered under the name of the Denim Advice Committee, again at the urging of the Office of Price Stabilization, a new organization very similar to OPA. Since the heads of each manufacturer had an opportunity to meet, it probably didn't cause any problems for the industry to change the ounce notation for denim all at once. I had noticed that the weight of postwar denim had increased over time, but I had assumed that denim had become heavier because of more advanced looms. I was surprised to find that it was simply the surface area being measured that had become larger. Ed Cray's statement on page 134 that "denim weight has increased to 13.5 ounces" is probably referring to the weight after the weight standard changed. I think Cray heard about this in an interview with someone from Levi's, but the person he was interviewing probably didn't know when the weight had increased. Although this is a double standard, both values were actually listed in the official denim specifications published in 1925. Table C5-2 is the specification sheet for unshrunk denim and includes weight data, warp and weft thread counts (per inch), and tear strength. There are two types of ounces for "Weight" in this table. The left side (Per square yard) is the weight in ounces of "1.0 x 1.0 yard", and the right side (Per linear yard, 28 inches wide) is the weight in ounces of "0.78 x 1.0 yard". Incidentally, the number for "Yards per pound, 28 inches wide" is the length in yards per 28 inches of denim x 1 pound (= 16 ounces). As you can see, even before the war, there were various ways of expressing weight according to the workplaces where denim was made. These official specifications were subsequently revised in 1929, 1931, 1936, 1944, and 1961, but all of them basically contained the same several different ways of expressing weight. However, despite the existence of these specifications, I have never seen any pre-1955 workwear or denim manufacturer product documentation that explicitly states that the ounce standard is "square yards" (of course, I may just not be able to find it). And there is one more mystery. In fact, if you convert the numbers in this table of the old and new denim values into the area of the denim, the numbers don't match when the width of the denim is 28 inches. This is true when the width is 28.8 inches. There seems to be an undiscovered truth to this problem. The nominal 28 inches may have actually been 28.8 inches. Snippets & table used in the above column:

Tender Co. for textiles, Hollows + Russell for leather

Whitesville T Cabourn belt Attractions trouser Sperry X Todd Snyder mocs

*Vtg The Rat Hole/Big Daddy Rat (Fink) Tee *Vtg studded leather belt *Blanket pin *Bronson MFG 1936 Lee Cowboy repro buckleback jeans *Vtg Tony Lama Black Label cowboy boots w/ Vibram work soles

warehouse wom-comp-ers birks

got hands on the free land 1920s chore: raw deetz (pretty starchy tough for a lighterweight denim) then fit (post 40c short wash n line dry)

Very interesting. That would answer the question, if I understood it correctly. My TLDR: Before the fabric was categorized by the weight of one piece with the dimensions of 28x36 inches. Then in 1955 this was changed to a larger fabric of 36x36". Of course, a larger fabric is heavier. And the increase is by 8", which is nearly 30%. So 10 ounce x 1.3= 13 ounce.

My initial post in the "Unknown Thread"

Freenote Hawaiian shirt, JCrew tee, Hollows belt, Flat Head 3003xx, Wesco 7500 boots.

Sugar Cane 1945 / Muji / Joe McCoy / Sugar Cane 1942 / Nicks

Viberg ball cap, My Epic band tee, Hollows belt, Flat Head 3003xx, 70s Chucks.

Happened to be wearing my edgiest t shirt myself yesterday. Mostly indoor house day because wildfire smoke from Canada made the outdoors not too great. pants are de bonne facture linen denim trousers, which I quite enjoy. don’t mind the slippers.

Tender Co. / Warehouse / Duke / Cane’s / The Flat Head

Broke out my Encinitas after a long dormancy and just gave them a wash after working on my truck. Owned about two years I think, worn a fraction of that:

They are made by https://www.shinotex.jp/en/ The original maker from 30 years ago. With the help of Ueki-san who was responsible for Gardener back in the day. The denim is from Collect Mills

Check in 7.22.25. Now the heat's on I'm not wearing them as much as I'd like, but I think some evolution is evident.

warehouse s1000xx DSB / sugar cane super denim ‘46. My wife recently discovered that some of my old pairs (warehouse in this case) fit her quite well, so here we are…

Cushman CSF 22501XX These are my current pair I am wearing the most these days - I’ve worn many S501XX repro and these take the cake for me. How they fit me, the cut, use my favorite denim Weird scuff on the right thigh above the knee. Bugging me

Lee Archives Riders 101-Z 1955 James Dean Model

RRL western shirt, Hollows belt, Buzz Rickson Original Spec 1930s chinos, John Lofgren Steadfast boots. I seriously love the fit (and everything else) about these chinos, getting a new, sized-up pair turned out to be a great call.

I think this is my picture spot now. Since it's hot, I don't tuck my t-shirts anymore. Gildan, buzz, boa

Thanks @lehadrakon for the great communication and totally painless trade. Couldn't ask for it to be smoother

Sassafras / Fruit of the Loom / Freewheelers / Warehouse

Papa Nui, carhartt, Fullcount, vans

Sugarcane 1945 - Merz - Duke - WMJ - Vans

We needed some sea air and Saltburn-by-the-Sea is about the closest coastal 'resort' near us at an 80 minute drive The funicular was open again Fish n Chips (killer calorie and gut overload I now regret!) WoM 5150, FW 1937, Tezomeya, Duke belt, MiJ Cons from Gee, Mrs MJF9's Topo bag

Nonnative Laguna tshirt Phigvel 302 Vans

Uniqlo, TCB 50, Clarks

Dry

SCSC '45 tux, still crispy / Whitesville / @Duke Mantee / Buckweat... recent pic, today is too hot

I think after the Word of Mouth contest is over I’m just gonna wear Tender Co. for a year or two Tender x4 / Tezomeya / Hollows / Russell

Old bandana Mister Freedom Speed Kills t Shirt and denim drawstring bag. ( both Dad's Day Gifts) Old belt New jeans about 90 days wear. ACME Phoenix boots

Tender Co. x5, Duke, Russell

They need another wash soon. They are the perfect summer pair. Maybe because they ended up shorter than planned.

The Vanishing West / Tezomeya / Roy / Russell

Sugarcane Indigo Madras Shirt • Engineered Garments

Envious of you lot that can wear denim jackets in June! These spent about 8 hours in the Texas sun (chilly day here, only 91 F / ~32 C) and they're bone dry now. Starting to see a little marbling pop up. They'll go back on the legs tomorrow.

Definitely iconic, check out the steez

Just sooooo good https://www.instagram.com/p/DJASqTQo72U/?img_index=3&igsh=MWgzNmNrbWVmNWZhaw==

A photo still of Elvis Presley during a break from filming 'Loving you' (1957). I've seen the movie and seen pretty much all of the stills from the movie that are available online but never this particular shot, which l thought l'd share here. 507XX and 501

Another wash