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Great Lakes x2 / Hollows / Cane’s / Frank’s

TCB jacket, Tender sweater, SDA pants, golden retriever.

DD1003xx ‘46 after another wash. At this point repairs have been done to yoke, crotch, cuffs, pocket stitching. Pocket stitching needs yet another one. For the wear, this amount of repairs are a bit much. Got these in 2020 (?) - probably not more than 15 months total wear. Just a few times a month these days. Color is more accurate in the close ups. I do really like this pair, the denim is still quite stiff and crunchy given the amount of washes now (probably 10?) - the cut still works well for me too. Just wish they felt a bit more robust overall (I’m a broken record on that at this point I get it).

Buzz Rickson Uniqlo jumper Warehouse 1001XX 25th Anniversary John Lofgren M43

Dancing with my boy

Here’s my other pair of 3005, my main jeans at the moment. I think these have been worn about ten months. Washed three times.

Roughly about 29 years old. Evis lot 2504 xx 18oz denim

Mended the cuffs on my Lee cowboy jacket. Dirty job, needed to get donen papa nui, Lee, fullcount, vans

129’s (woad) after another wash - these are a size 2. Again close ups are more accurate colors. Repairs have all just been seam reinforcement/overstitching aside from the hand stitched button hole reinforcement with the only thread I had around at that moment (contrast stitching!) - and no shortage of those but still simple enough. Crotch darning is imminent, but this is definitely the toughest denim I’ve put this much wear into - a relatively slim fit and probably over 18 months (and maybe closer to 2 years) of real wear and it’s still intact, which is probably a record. Eventually I’d love to beat up a pair of 132’s in a size 2…but so many pairs to get to first.

FIrst thing I thought of was:

Sedgwick bridle, snake, onyx and malachite, nickel plated brass hardware

Ordered another pair of Nonnative socks, this time in almost full wool. These are very thick and sturdy so these will be worn during the colder months.

My 1001s, from back in 2014: And a grail-level pair of 1005s I photographed at TFH headquarters back in 2013:

contribootin’ aero tcb sugar cane russell

Oh good question. I think when l've tried sewing tabs in to jeans many moons ago (actually twice in all) l ruined the tabs and the og levis pockets in the process so never tried it since. Luckily my Mrs has done a few tab sewing operations and made a better job but they're not perfect. You can always see the join of the thread (alot of that was to do with the thread that was available at the time) I guess that and the fact that l sometimes just don't want a tab, for example l haven't bought any tabbed jeans since my conners several year's ago (2020?) opting for the pre tab 1920s models instead ( the FW1942'S being the exception). But l've stayed away from temptation with the Sugarcane stuff as l don't have any real disposable income atm and don't want mentally to start investing in yet more repro denim (let alone customisation) as l have enough atm if not more than enough jeans. I have 12 pairs l wear regularly which, apart from one pair, all have arcs. And all my post 1936 repros have tabs. Then l have the 42's on ice. Plus l don't wear jeans as often as I used to so .. I guess there isn't a mental block but more of a liberating sensation when my nerdy denim ocd is sated, which it is atm . And also because l was able to say No to more denim and avoided the rabbit holes. So feeling good with what l have and less consumerist. Plus if l'm gonna put down 250-300 quid plus on a pair of Levi's 501XX repros, l want the tab and arcs included in the price. So basically l'm a fussy bugger who's who's got enough jeans who is also a denim snob 🤫

@willi this is probably not helpful as I believe they're only UK based, but after years of buying and wearing out cheap crap frames I bought some glasses from Cubitts, they're hefty, stylish and feel like they will last a long time - I've had them coming up for a year now and no complaints at all - even with children constantly stealing them from my face and being not so delicate with them, and working out and running in them, drenching them thoroughly with sweat. They offer a free service after a year too which I'm looking forward to, just for a deep clean and to tighten up the temples now I've worn them in properly. I have it on good faith that Moscot NYC are as good as this, and also Cutler and Gross, which are UK based but have an NYC store. Sorry if none of that is useful.

My very small and humble Evisu jeans collection. And my beloved No. 1 Specials from 15 years ago. See you guys next year.

Tyler the creator

^ Out of curiosity, Doc, if you’re comfortable w/ sending them out to get arcs added then what’s the mental block to just getting a tab sewn on at the same time?

0-9 months...

These past few pages are on fire. I love fall. Same old same old... Shrank the waist a bit on my sized up 501s to reduce the sag a bit but kept the legs dry. Much better.

Sedgwick bridle, snake, nickel plated hardware, malachite and onyx gemstones

@PrettyBoyTony I will when the fades are interesting enough! I’m sure those 714s of yours will look really good anyways, the fit looks perfect in the pictures.

Will need to see some pics of those! I've committed far too much wear to my 714s to give up on them now.

That could be the answer. Possibly a teaser for upcoming models? After all they could release the same range as LVC. So very likely a 1937 model, perhaps 47, 55, 66. And why not 51 and 53.

I'm quite happy with my Julius Tart Opticas. Also Harman Optical. Tart Optical Arnel are also very nice.

All useful suggestions, thanks! The three weak points I usually find on glasses are either a) the frame material ages in a way that looks cheap/undesirable b) the hinges deform or c) the frame slowly weakens at a stress point until it breaks. Hinges can sometimes be fixed depending on construction but usually occurs along with one of the other two factors. I spent some money on these shades from Tender pictured below and they get a lot less use than an everyday frame but they feel solid, they have massive hinges that look like they're for holding up a door and I'm hopeful they will hold up for many years. I'm going to look for something similar for my next glasses.

Lovely pic of the earliest readable vintage Levis 506 jacket patch. It's a clearer image from the unwashed 1927 first pocket flapped 506xx that l posted some pages back. It is rare insomuch as it has Copper Riveted and 'Size' 36 meaning it was used exclusively for jackets. This label is thought to be used until c.1936 when levis started to use the same Two horse patch that was used on 501's at the time to use on jackets also, which is what we're usually used to seeing on a 506.

Flat Head 3005XXX. Worn since August 2018. I lost track of wear time, but I think they’re around 20 months of actual wear. Easily my most worn jeans ever, and washed countless times. I wore these jeans the most over the past summer. I stopped cuffing them and wearing a wallet in the back pocket in this same time. Still tons of life left in these. The hem, knees, and rear end/back rise seam all need or will soon need repairs. The jeans were previously repaired at Indigo Proof in 2020 or so, where the front pocket openings were expanded, the pocket bags replaced with deeper ones, back pocket stitching repaired, and cuff tears repaired. It's been quite impressive that I managed to wear these for so long without the knees blowing out, though they're pretty close now.

Here is the new catalogue: https://bookshelf.wisebook4.jp/html/toyoenterprise/55082/#1

Sub and FC 1101’s

These have been in and out of my mind along with other pairs that catch my gaze, so I finally looked around for the sizing out of curiousity. The YAMANE website has a pretty detailed size chart. https://yamane.industries/products/lot-1991-no-1-classic-straight-fit-jeans-washed

Obligatory Imperial post...9 months in, 3 to go (as far as end of competition).

Picked this up yesterday. Denim by RRL and sugar cane

old woad square tail shirt during "black september" event w/ my fave indo hiphop crew homicide. talking to ucok the mc in the pic. im nearly the only person not wearing black 😛

Found this odd pair of Evis 2501. Bull patch, red line, but no crotch rivet or coin pocket rivets. A bit WWII-esque. Never seen it before.

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

In other news… Picked up my absolute dream pair around a month ago, the M41059. I actually already had a pair, which I’d found years ago in the same size (33) as my first M41058, but it turned out that these run around a size smaller, and there was no chance they were going to be comfortable after shrinking. These new ones are tagged 35, and in great condition. Ignoring older MP-series wares like the above, this model has always been right at the top of the list of Cane’s I’d like to find.

1942 Levis 501xx showing how beautiful the war denim is when faded, and the arcs look just like the pocket design on my FW1942's 😁 Pics via Berberjin

Sassafras Gardeners jacket 10 years, bought in Brodism (Sassafras own-label store) in Kyoto. 14 oz jap denim Never washed, we dont wash jackets around here

Finally took a good comprehensive inventory of jeans (+ a couple other pants) or Is there any way to just insert html / bbcode / whatever tables into posts here? This feels really unweildy or Apparently I have 3 pairs of M41030 that I haven't worn Brand Model Size Status Notes Ooe Yofukuten SOA03XX W36 L36 Rigid with tags Roy Foreman pants W33 Rigid with flasher Roy Foreman pants W33 Worn Roy R01 Test Lot W33 Heavily worn Blackseed denim; lots of repairs Roy R01 XUVS W34 Rigid with flasher Sakura's 1946 W34 Lightly worn No. 43; too small; for sale Sugar Cane MP-619 W33 Worn too small Sugar Cane M41027T W36 L35 Worn Sugar Cane M41030D W34 L36 Rigid Sugar Cane M41030U W34 L36 OW for sale Sugar Cane M41030W W34 L36 OW with tags & sticker Sugar Cane M41051 W32 L35 Rigid too small Sugar Cane M41057E W34 L36 Rigid with sticker Sugar Cane M41057E W34 L36 Worn hemmed short Sugar Cane M41058A W33 Heavily worn Sugar Cane M41058A W35 Worn Sugar Cane M41059B W35 L36 Rigid Sugar Cane M41059C W33 L36 Rigid too small; for sale Sugar Cane M41119C W34 L36 Worn dope knee repair Sugar Cane M41150A W33 L36 Lightly worn brown plant-dyed Sugar Cane M41200J W34 L36 Heavily worn very dope repairs Sugar Cane M41300M W34 L36 Rigid Sugar Cane SC40285 W33 L34 Worn brown plant-dyed Sugar Cane SC40285 W34 L34 OW gray plant-dyed; too small Sugar Cane SC40300A W34 L34 Worn Sugar Cane SC40302 W34 L34 Worn hemmed to shorts; kakishibu painted thighs Sugar Cane SC40345 W34 L34 OW bull denim gray overdyed Sugar Cane SC40381 W60 L34 OW display jeans Sugar Cane SC40401 W34 L34 Heavily worn Sugar Cane SC40501 W34 L36 Rigid unopened Sugar Cane SC41946 MiUSA W34 L32 Worn Sugar Cane SC41955 MiUSA W33 L34 OW with tags, flasher, & box; too small; for sale Sugar Cane SC42460 W34 L34 Lightly worn black 1947 TCB 50s black W34 Worn too small Tender Co. Type 122 4 Worn green corduroy pleat-back trousers Tender Co. Type 132 4 Worn Achille's Heel Tender Co. Type 133 3 Lightly worn Flowerpot canvas cross-cut trews; missing crotch rivet; too small The Flat Head S2004 W33 Heavily worn The Vanishing West 601RB W34 L32 Worn The Vanishing West 601XX 1951 W34 L34 Worn The Vanishing West S601XX W34 L32 Lightly worn olive twill pocket bags version Warehouse 1001XX 1000 W33 L32 Worn black, ca. 2010; too small Warehouse 1001XX DSB W34 L32 Heavily worn 1946 model

8 months in...12 washes, 1 soak.

That was quick, Naoki ships lightning fast! Pants Avenue rules. Eternal 811 in size 36 (pre-soak but no intention of soaking just yet) Waist 37.00 F Rise 12.25 R Rise17.00 Thigh 13,75 Knee 9.75 LO 9.00 Inseam 37.00 Forgot how good Eternal denim is. Very TFH 3XXX-esque.

Post wash, almost 3 years on both pieces. Jacket has gone through a couple of repairs through self edge and the jeans surprisingly have held up really well.

Pre-soak After initial wash (30 °C machine wash)

I’ve been wearing these again since they fit (thanks cigarettes!), and after a wash thought I’d take some pics. West Ride heavyweight denim, many years and washes.

I've had this Old Navy shirt for like 9 years now, longer than I've been interested in raw denim. It was just a cool shirt that fit me well, and has treated me well this whole time. The second to last picture shows what the fabric started out like where the placket has frayed and opened up. I've had to repair both elbows which I did with a fun floral fabric I had on hand.

^ It may actually be more cost effective to turn your heating on