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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/10/24 in all areas
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19 points
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Some pictures after applying Fiebing's Brown Edge Dressing. Looks so much better in my opinion, not really a fan of natural edges. Also swapped out the laces for the waxed laces (also included), though forgot to snap some photos. I'm certainly no boots expert. But I've worn White's, Wesco, Alden, etc. over the last 20 years. Never really had an eye for Red Wing. I appreciated the history, but didn't quite understand their use case since my PNW boots were much more robust, and my Alden's more dressier. All these years later, I find PNW boots too clunky and heavy, and my Alden's not robust enough. Suddenly Red Wing made perfect sense, and prices haven't really skyrocketed luckily. Some complain that these new Beckman's don't have the Japan version flatbox toe of yore (which I would've preferred), or that the heel should be stacked leather for the price. But for the price, I think these represent a perfect midway boot that looks dressy enough, and still robust enough without being cumbersome or hard on my geriatric knees. Looking forward to putting the miles in!18 points
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Update Good news... Simone confirmed that Collect have shipped both rolls. The target plan remains for Simone to have the jeans to us before Christmas for the competition to start. Note though that’s a target as Simone’s doing this single-handed so we’ll need to be understanding. Anyhow, this plan beats my expectations for sure given we only very recently started talking about this so solid progress has been made. Simone has started on the belt loops already! Request please by the deadline of 14th September Can all contestants finalise the following by DMing it to both @beautiful_FrEaK and me please? Model Waist size Confirm if they want hemming done by Simone If yes, please state your desired inside leg. Simone will add 8.3cm to your desired leg length to allow for shrinkage. Any issues with the date, please let me know. To help you finalise your model selection… Key points Every SuFu contest jeans will be made with the same denim which is sourced from Collect/Japan Blue. 12oz Loom state selvedge denim made by Shinya on Enshu shuttle loom. Denim is 82,5 cm (32,5 Inches) wide Cotton origin: American Yarn count 7/1 x 7/1 Density 62x46 Please be aware may jeans are hand-made, hand-folded, sewn on vintage industrial sewing machines. Flawless, imperfections are considered parts of the beauty and character of my jeans. Discrepancies with chart may occur. Same specs for all jeans: 100% Japanese cotton sewing threads Hand folded seam allowances, no use of iron Sufu custom-designed cow leather patch Sizes available: 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44 311 Slim/Reg silhouette mid to high rise 60's rivets No hidden rivets (can be ordered with hidden rivets) Word of Mouth buttons Orange sewing threads Thin belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411 Regular straight silhouette (see pic) High rise Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Word of Mouth buttons Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads) Wide belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411WWII Same 411 specs except for: Japanese HBT pocket bags Yellow threads Raw crotch and flys construction (see pic) Unfinished pocket facings (see pic) S-wire donut buttons, S-wire laurel leaf belt button No bartacks on back pockets Wonky stitches 611 ('37 inspired model) Regular straight silhouette (wider than 411) High rise Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Crotch rivets Chinch back Reversed yoke construction (see pic) Two tone threads color Wide belt loop Raw Flys and crotch construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411S ('42ish inspired model) 611 silhouette Punch through Rivets Hidden rivets Standart yoke construction Crotch Rivet Bartack on back pocket No chinch back Wide beltloop 10 Oz Denim pocket bag (Amoskeag Repro Fabric) Donut and WMJ mix buttons 5150 High rise Regular straight silhouette Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Orange stitches Word of Mouth buttons Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads) Wide belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags13 points
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Update: In the top position is librapondus Waist Overall (rebuilt) — no questions regarding the cut, as all the measurements were discussed and confirmed with Ono-san during the ordering process. The details are impressive, the deviation from perfection is barely noticeable, not intrusive, just the way it should be, with a slight touch of wabi-sabi. As for the denim, the Last Resort used by Ono-san is also a perfect hit, I like absolutely everything about it: the texture, color, density, and feel (never had Jelado's denim before). An undisputed winner. My top favourites also include Full Count and Freewheelers, both the cut and the denim are practically perfect. TCB denim can be added here too, although there are some reservations regarding the cut. I still love OA, though denim is somewhat bland to my taste.7 points
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That’s a lot of choices! I’m thinking 611 in size 33 for me, with a desired end length of 30. But I’ve got to pore over the measurements/models to be sure. Thanks for doing this.4 points
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4 points
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So the organizers have kindly allowed me to squeak in as a contestant & consequently I won't be judging. I'm leaning to the 50s model because of the higher rise. Still trying to figure out sizing. Simone's advice on going up by 2 sizes vs Tilmann's sample pair stretching back to the raw waist measurement is severely testing my decision making capabilities... In any case I'm very happy to be a part of this with you all!3 points
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Not in this thread. If l get a chance after work, I'll explain it in the Denim blunders thread. Edit. Sent you a dm instead.3 points
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Here's a size comparison between a new black 505s in size 36, and a pretty new 50s in size 36. I wear my 50s a little larger than most western guys I think. I would describe the fit as relaxed everywhere. Waist a tiny bit bigger than my waist and no stretching. 505s are a little bit smaller in the waist. Very small stretch for me. Although the thigh is around the same as the 50s at the top they feel slimmer all over. Rock and roll fit. Other TCB sizes I wear... 40s in 34, 30s in 34, 1890s in 34 (pics in this thread), Cats Drive in 34, Tabbys Work Pant in 34. Don't try to go small on these.2 points
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The advice from Simone just now is if you want a size w34 then buy a w36 tho that's based on washing them before wearing... we all know jeans stretch though and shrink again in the wash so the size taken depends on how you want to wear them... @beautiful_FrEaK has been wearing said denim and posted measurements so could chime in with specific experience again here to help...2 points
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Yeah, I've been looking at B_F's measurements but we're gonna be soaking/washing/drying differently too. I'm planning on machine washing and drying my pair regularly so I doubt the waist would stretch back to the initial size... but then again, it might 😅2 points
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Decided and DMing.... 411S ('42ish inspired model), size W36, NO hemming...2 points
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Deciding between the 311 and 5150 now... trying to see if I can fit into a size 32 5150 model with my ~31" waist... Or I'd just do a size 33 311... Decisions, decisions2 points
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All sounds good to me, I'll drop y'all a DM soon once I decide on the sizing. Definitely will be the 411S model for me, looking forward to it. Also interested to see what the patch will look like!2 points
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Yes @Broark l was clueless to the issue until it was too late. Glad l got away from all the complaints and other bullshit, l would never be a moderator again after that episode. Shame, as denimbro was a great buzz before all the hoo ha.2 points
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Got myself a new pair yesterday papa nui / engineered garments / at last co2 points
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@aho every once in awhile Barnstormer gets the Flatbox version and still has some sizes left. I almost pulled the trigger on them myself, but decided on getting a different pair instead.1 point
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A number of years ago MASH CO reproduced the 1930's - 40's US Army denim dungarees that were also used by the CCC Civilian Conservation Corp. The raw denim was originally a beautiful dark indigo that's worn well over the years and fading nicely. The zinc US Army metal buttons are also beautifully reproduced.1 point
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@Alec Leamas I would describe the 505 as a really neutral fit. It is straight with a touch of taper (like many "straight" fits from fashion brands these days which rarely are completely straight from the knee down like mid-century 501s), it also has a pretty high rise where the denim tapers in towards the waistband giving the fit a vintage vibe. The back pockets are placed fairly high which is quite flattering too imo. Neither wide nor straight I would describe them simply as a good standard jean, which is probably why its not as popular among repro heads.1 point
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To be fair I was kind of voluntold to be a mod there with zero inside info as to what was actually happening.1 point
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Vintage deadstock Frye boots. Seller said they were a sample on display in a flagship store. They smell like an old motorcycle jacket. Super Solid. Reminds me a little of the Clinch cowboy boots by Brass Show Co. A little sturdier and more structured with thicker soles and no toe embellishment. Tea core leather too. Should last forever.1 point
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To offer somewhat of a different perspective here that has little to do with old repros per se, nostalgia is a powerful drug. The search for “authenticity” is often a search for feelings one had as a youth, when everything was more exciting because one was young and because there is a sense of discovery at that age that there won’t be when you’ve lived longer, and seen more. It’s not to say that the pursuit of nostalgia is problematic, but one will simply never recreate the feelings of that age. It is a chapter in life. Now we are in a new chapter. There are plenty of brands here that I would contend exude the passion some probably found in the original Osaka 5 works. And maybe young people finding them today will have the same feelings about them twenty years from now. Tender, Freewheelers, and Ooe, (and TCB as noted) for example - all know how to do IG , yes, but they also clearly and patently make what they love and it shows in the clothes - those of us that have them probably appreciate them largely for this reason. There are things from the past worth holding on to, but we can’t completely. I also don’t mean to take anything away from collecting older models - if that’s your jam, by all means. It’s fun to go searching and find a treasure, absolutely. It just doesn’t mean that there isn’t something out right now that lacks that same magic. These are just perceptions. I use Leica digital Monochromes for my work. I use them because damn are the files so much better than a 35mm negative, and they make pictures possible that weren’t before. I’m stubborn and want the camera to feel like the sort I used for years, but that’s the irrational part of me. They are an objective improvement compared to the negatives you’d get from tri-x run through an analog M, and the prints (that I do digitally) have their own unique and beautiful presence that a silver print differs from (not better or worse). But, I came up shooting film for a good while, I shot it for work when I had the budget, had to turn around that shit on deadline for magazines stubbornly when digital was in full force already because 10 years ago medium format film still had a very demonstrable advantage - as of about the 36 and 40 mp sensors in the D800 series or the Sony A7R series, it was gone. And I was happy to let it go. I still have my Rolleiflexes and M6, beautiful mechanical objects but they sit in a case because as photographic tools they’re not as good for most purposes. (Some specific purposes - I’ll never tell someone what they need - I’m sure can be found). If one enjoys the process more, that’s great. Enjoying the process is the most important part of making things, most of the time. But careful not to hold an idea that it’s somehow something more real or pure because it’s older or slower etc. And there’s nothing that stops one from being deliberate on a digital camera. I get that the roll of film presents a hard limit on things, but there’s nothing stopping one from just shooting a few deliberately made pictures even if you can make 1000. Yes, we are awash in more plastic and more fakery and more advertising than ever, and it can make the good stuff hard to find, but it’s more out there than ever. Maybe this is because I work in the arts but there is great new work being made now, all of the time, and the idea of “the good old days” is a mirage that will never materialize because the way it exists in one’s head now is different than it was even then. Realizing this probably belongs in the “nonsense” thread - mods feel free to move, or delete even if this is too insufferable ha.1 point
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