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Papa nui, Carhartt, Fullcount, vans

All vintage, all MIUSA

Phigvel Phigvel Vans

Picked up a pair of 1001XX (1000XX) 1953's off Mercari via FromJapan (sidenote I have only recently dived in there and deary me there's truly a wealth of great stuff there!!!) I had been after these for a while, even pondering getting some for UK retail and they literally sold out as I was in the final stages of deciding / faffing - a blessing in disguise! Bit of an odd one as the hem looked unwashed, yet there is some light wear elsewhere, they're in great condition anyway. Looks as though I might be the 3rd owner and the 2nd owner had them hemmed but then changed their mind or something like that. Super pleased with these, typical DSB neppy softness. I also love the details on the 1953 pair - multicoloured stitching throughout and the visible fabric folded over on the pocket corners is a nice little touch I've not seen on any other WH pairs. Don't think I've seen the DSB 1953's shared here so adding a few pictures. Couple outside in the sun shots and some indoor ones - the true colour of the fabric is somewhere between the outside and inside shots, those who have seen new ish DSB fabric will know the type, it's definitely the same version of the fabric as my 1000XX.

Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks:

Ok, I’m in!!!!!

@AlientoyWorkmachine I’m planning on doing some custom pizza stitching on mine, and could happily do for yours as well if that would help sway you…

They are definitely my most comfortable one to wear in the current weather (30 °C). The stretchy-ness and lighter feel is similar to FC's 13.7oz denim and also the denim Ooe uses. The texture of FC is a bit rougher though. The 1950-ROW is smoother. I would need to make a closer comparison to the Ooe denim I have.

There is very little info out there as to what pre-Evis examples actually were. The best I could find was the above example from Ed, with a lot of interpolation on what I know of early Evis details and construction, paired with looking at as many examples of Rodeo Uncle jeans as I could. The early designs are incredibly fluid. Same model number 5501, but everything from denim, hardware, construction details change. Early Evis (that I have several examples of from the first runs where they did partial runs of stitched arcs prior to full adoption of painted gulls) all have red line denim with a wide selvedge, scovil hardware, diagonal mounted rear belt loop, left side installed care tag, with very odd stitching details like overlapped stitching (almost like they ran out of thread and restarted) with a very dark orange/almost brown thread. The details of fabric, thread and minor construction changed very rapidly even while still "Evis". Selvedge got narrower, thread became a more standard yellow and orange, odd sewing behaviors disappeared, but scovil hardware continued until a later era (present in post-Bull patch Evis). My above pair of Rodeo Uncle have the exact same details of construction, thread and hardware, look like a pair of early Evis, save for the denim. It is a pink line denim with a narrow selvedge. From all of the other Rodeo Uncle examples I have seen, denim changed first (somewhere there was my pink line and a red line) along with a transition to using YKK rivets alongside Scovil hardware (mine are all scovil), construction details diverged away from Evis-like details (offset beltloop, different thread and sewing techniques, pocket shape and placement), then a change of hardware to "Standard Style" shop branded hardware, along with patch changes (that I am less clear on). Based on this information, I think it is logical to suggest that those examples which have scovil hardware and Evis-like construction where made from the "shop" that became Evis, and the transition away from Evis "fingerprints" likely signals the pre/post boundary. Now, I do not know if between mine and Ed's, which is earlier. Its clear to me that the thread used on Ed's pair is the identical brownish thread in mine and early Evis. You can interpret the all scovil hardware vs the some YKK as being an indicator of Ed's being a transition pair (because Evis is all scovil and YKK as the company name didnt come about until '94? I think, so after this era which was ~'88-'90). The ONLY detail that seems to be a clear indicator that I have been able to pick up on, which I even hesitate to say, is the stamp font used on the patch. Every example I have seen BUT my pair, including modern examples, use a "curly-er" font. See Ed's below and another example below: Eds: Whereas my pair has a very plain font: I have not seen this font used on any other pair, (nor a deer skin patch). This might be the best determining detail. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to nerd out @julian-wolf. I hope that answered your question.

I have never been particularly excited by what I've seen, worn and handled from Kaihara. My all time favorite fabric is from Shinya (thanks @Maynard Friedman and PaulT). Makes that an easy choice for me.

I have just seen that Warehouse updated the Denime graphic and have now shared it on the blog on their site, this version makes a bit more sense!

Happy to join! All good on the denim, whichever way we lean, just seeing fades like that in general gets me excited 😂

I should probably know about these, but does anyone own any Silverstone Ground Alls? The brand was apparently resurrected around 2022 (https://www.instagram.com/ground_alls/ & https://www.ground-alls.com/shopdetail/000000000015/ct6/page1/order/), but it'd be fun to get a pair from the 90's as in this video: A lot of fun early LVC history mentioned as well for the Japanese speakers*

Some close up comparison of the 30s jacket and 50s jeans. The 30s denim starts off super rigid but is breaking in pretty quickly. I've been wearing it almost all day, every day for the last couple of weeks, and it's shedding indigo dye from the sleeves all over the counter where I sit to work 😆

Freewheelers Ironalls x 2, Mao suit / Powerwear / Converse

I have absolutely no choice in this. If I am to wear these as much as I plan to once this starts, they will undoubtedly need a weekly wash! The kids and the animals will see to that.

late to the party, but; my basic experience is that I stop wearing things that are too small, whereas those with a bit of give are a happy place... and the 50s are pretty strict in the top block...

Gonna bow out on this one y’all, consider a spot opened if someone else wants to jump in.

I recommend going by their 'waist/around' measurements rather than 'waist/flat'. Measure your waist circumference with a flexible tape and go by that. The 50s runs smaller in the waist than their other models. My waist measured this way is ~90cm and I very comfortably wear a 50s size 36, it's a relaxed fit.

here is the tcb account of shinya - https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/blogs/ニュース/shinya-mills certainly tcb's 50s fabric from there is one of my all time favourites... pretty sure their 'Boss of the Cat' overalls are from there too [really great fabric] any good experiences out there for kaihara? I had the eu made lvc 50s version from that mill; was pretty uniform, less weave-chattery [gave them to brother in law before seeing any real fades tho...]

most excellent, cannot think of a more experienced and responsible duo with varied fit styles to help us all along! I was certainly thinking of going for a w40 as it seems all quite neat from the fits seen on insta and b_F's review; but will wait until denim is decided... In terms of denim choices: whichever is more 'wartime 40s' is my preference - any thoughts from those who know more? hoping for a 30s cut in such a 40s denim... [have a lot of shinya denim with various tcb pieces, but will probably lean to kaihara for variation: they are the Levis suppliers now?]

We discussed this with Simone as well. Availability of shuttle loom woven and loomstate denim is generally low and it sells out rather quick. So in theory, Simone could pick something from the swatches he has but we won't know if enough would be available for 25 contestants. And then you have an untested denim without knowledge of shrinkage and general behaviour. WE thought this is the safer route.

Also not able to vote on my end.

@aho on sizing, I was going to go up one from my warehouse size (34 to 35) simply because 35 is available, and it would allow me to be more liberal with the dryer over winter/wet days and maximise wear. Waist is always okay at 34", it's the thigh that pinches in too much for me with dryer usage I got to this based on the size charts and @beautiful_FrEaK's shrinkage experience with his current pair With both of those fabrics listed above, I'm assuming they'll shrink and expand similarly given how close they are in terms of yarn count and density....or would anyone with more experience or understanding disagree with that?

My last count was 23 and you would be 24. So from that point it would work. But the denim is not yet decided, the poll we be open later

This would be my dream. I would love to be able to write down a detailed history of what happened and when, with the fingerprints of that history that can be seen in the details.

WTS: P10A-S Black MEDIUM, but tailored to fit like a SMALL. $350 USD Worn a bunch, but still in great condition. FW1617. https://postimg.cc/gallery/jx5pfbD P10A-DS SMALL. $750 USD Worn twice and that's it. SS19. https://postimg.cc/gallery/8TCW6X1 P10-S Olive SMALL. $300 USD Worn but still a ton of life left in it. No major flaws. FW1213 https://postimg.cc/gallery/LZMJ62H P10-CH Night SMALL. $500 USD Light wear around the edges, but its best days are ahead of it. SS16 https://postimg.cc/gallery/GGTkDCt 3A-5TS $900 USD Seen a lot of use but remains absolutely bulletproof. Recently cleaned. SS10(?) Around there. Has three accessory attachments whose names I’ve long since forgotten. They come with the bag, so priced accordingly. https://postimg.cc/gallery/GT3Ynvj Happy to talk prices.

Makes sense the start date is driven by the reality of the production timetable - gives us something to look forward to at the end Jan! This is still moving forward at a reassuring pace - thanks to you b_F and Simone I think we've got enough pairs of jeans to keep us going until then 😉

Put me down as interested as well.

With this information I’ll revise my suggestion to a size 36. My waist is about 81 cm around and that aligned perfectly with a 33 which is what I bought. They’ve been comfortable from the first wear and haven’t stretched too much either with a belt

36 sounds right. You could probably squeeze into a 34 but it will ride up your ass.

I too am planning on trying something different this time around, going to wash once a week and probably dry in the dryer. Planning on sizing up accordingly to take this into account. Being that it's about 12oz (I estimate 13.25 post soak?) it wouldn't take much effort to stretch back out in high stress areas.

I want to vote for #2 purely because it has some Australian cotton in it but I'd down with what the majority chooses. Both look great to me!

I agree with indigoeagle. Ideally, my jeans would be about 40-41 cm laid flat. I have a 33 in TCB 50s and they even have a little bit of room in the waist such that I prefer to wear a belt.

@ahoI bought some Silverstones fom double0soul some years back. Some great details, including offset beltloop, Scoville marked rivets and a mix of orange and yellow cotton thread. They were cut off to make shorts - l use them in the garden now.

That sounds ideal, @beautiful_FrEaK. I don't tend to wear my tighter woven, stiffer fabrics nearly as much. As much as I love White Oak's history and how their denim fades, the tighter and smoother weave just isn't as appealing to me. Those are common characteristics of the Kaihara denim I've worn as well and looking at the fade pictures, it looks to be a relatively flat denim.

Collect "labels" the RSS1950 as a 50s denim. No statement about the RS501 denim though. I haven't handled the RS501 so I can't compare them directly. No need to hope for a 30s cut. If you want one, you chose it And yes, Kaihara is the supplier of LVC MiJ.

Same as @Jared_Lee, I generally prefer what Shinya weaves. Handled a lot of nice denim from them over the years. b_F since you have a pair using the RS1950-ROW denim, any early days comparisons to other denims you've handled? Assuming it is fairly breathable as well.

What to do if we want to be surprised?

I experienced 3" of shrinkage on my RS1950 denim. It also stretched completely back (I am not proud of this). Simone said his pair of RS501 shrank 2" and he washed his pair a lot. I need to confirm his actual tag size. Both denim seem to be quite similar, I guess the density affects the shrink and stretch, which would make sense seeing Simone's and my results.

Ooof...Was going to sit this one out as I had a few unexpected expenses come up, but that RS501 fabric/fading samples pulled me in... @beautiful_FrEaK still any room or is it already capped at 25? Also, is everyone basically ordering their standard Japanese repro size? Seems like waist is shrink from tag size?

Hey l've got a few pics l screenshotted from his Facebook page, mind you - he's only wearing denim budgie smugglers 🤮

agree. getting freaky in the tub with your jeans is cool. i like his huge cat. everyone do your own thing.

Talking of curtains... We all know the (metaphoric) curtain we'd really like to see behind In return for a full WAYWT pic from @Maynard Friedman, I'd personally be willing to let him pick the contest denim!!! 😀

More power to the weirdos doing their thing. I prefer all this nerd stuff to possessing an indifference to fashion. So many times in my life I’ve ridiculed others for acting in ways I don’t understand that I’m finally losing patience with myself.

We get to vote on choices of denim too? This is all time!

Warehouse Denime Asahi

Tom Waits - Telegraph Magazine cover

Vintage Stetson Stratoliner Buzz Old belt MF Paraboot

Smoking while doing that is also part of it https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzzcRm1hHtw/?igsh=MWQ1ZGUxMzBkMA==