Tender Co. Denim

[simontuntelder]

William, I love you. Every time I check this thread, I'm gobsmacked by the things, that you do. Please keep doing things the right way.

At some point I'll be discarding all of my other garb and only wear Tender. I just not there yet, but some fine day.

[UkeNo]

[/size]

Bill.

Some info on this top?

Many Thanks

Edited July 26, 2012 by UkeNo

[grooveholmes]

okiya has some of the new items up, including a pretty sweet sweater:

[rodeo bill]

Holllly crap, I just went to order some boot grease from trestle and it's asking 30 quid to ship to Australia.

pm'd you, and sorted, I hope

[rodeo bill]

Bill.

Some info on this top?

Many Thanks

Thanks for asking! This is in production right now, so I don't have the sample to show you more details, but it's an evolution of the left-hand twill 'guard's jacket' from the SS12 production. Instead of the half-moon calico pocket facings this version has heavy english-woven flax (coarse linen) strapping across the pockets on the inside (you can see this in the picture). The front facings are in ecru cotton calico, and all the stitching is ecru cotton as well.

The fabric itself is really special- woven in england especially for tender, it's the same as the liner in the black logwood-dyed type900 jacket. It's woven from natural undyed black sheeps wool (from the Welsh Black breed), so it shows all the natural variations in colour of the sheep themselves. The jacket is unlined, so it's best worn over a long-sleeve shirt, but it's really light and wears a bit like a cardigan. I hope this helps for now....

[rodeo bill]

as an interlude before some more AW12 and trestle shop products, olympic fever is with us

the men's cycling went past our front door today, so deborah (who's american) and I got creative:

to be brought out again tomorrow for women's cycling....

Edited July 28, 2012 by rodeo bill

[crip_pierre]

OEN shop has a few items from the new season posted - including the new keeper buckle belt

http://shop.the189.com/collections/tender-co

Edited July 30, 2012 by crip_pierre

[cool_hand]

Are there any differences between between the Type 130 Woad dyed jeans and the Type 130 Purple Logwood dyed Jeans that I should be aware of? It's just that in photos of the jeans I've seen the Purple Logwood appear to have a very wrinkled finish whereas the Woad jeans appear to have a much more flat finish. Can this wrinkled finish (which I guess if from the dying process) be ironed out?

How different are the Indigo dyed jeans to the Woad dyed - is the colour more vibrant and deeper blue on the Woad?

Edited July 31, 2012 by cool_hand

[Thor]

here are a couple of pictures of the woad dyed type130 jeans compared with the purple logwood dyed type 130:

taken inside by the window, no photoshop. hope this gives you a clearer idea of the differences in the dyes!

[rodeo bill]

^^^pm'd you about woad vs indigo. The logwood is a hot process, and involves the garments being squashed down in the dye more than the woad, which is a cool process, and a more gentle dyeing method. Both garments are hung to dry, and they're not ironed or steamed before being packed, as I feel this passes on the characteristics of the dyeing techniques the best. The wrinkles would iron out if you like, although they'll also soften into your own shape over a pretty short period of wearing them.

(ps, thanks Thor for the pics )

[bbcapone]

Hey bill

U know if any of your stockists have the blue guards jacket in large (3 i bbelieve)?

Also any more info/price range on the boots? They look exactly like what I was imagining for boots in my head!

Thanks!

[cool_hand]

Just received a brand new Purple Logwood Guards jacket in size 4 but sadly it's a little bit small for me.

Actually quite gutted as the colour is simply stunning.

I am going to post up details and pictures in marketplace later but if anyone is interested please PM me.

Now posted in marketplace

Further price reduction. SOLD

Edited August 17, 2012 by cool_hand

[rodeo bill]

Hey bill

U know if any of your stockists have the blue guards jacket in large (3 i bbelieve)?

Also any more info/price range on the boots? They look exactly like what I was imagining for boots in my head!

Thanks!

Thanks for your enquiry- Large is a 4, and is in stock (at a very good price!) at OEN shop. If you want a 3 (Medium) it's at Lyon State

The boots disappeared really fast in the first run! Unionmade will be getting a restock in the next couple of weeks. Please could you check in with them for price?

If you need anything more feel free to email me, [email protected]

Edited August 2, 2012 by rodeo bill

[swixo]

William -

Have you decided to produce the "thigh pocket" model we saw a few posts back?

Thanks

s

[rodeo bill]

William -

Have you decided to produce the "thigh pocket" model we saw a few posts back?

Thanks

s

Yes! These are in the current production and will be in shops in the next few weeks. Please pm or email me if you'd like specific details.

[rodeo bill]

A few more things have just gone up on the trestle shop Including some wallets, the same design and construction as the mainline but gold foil stamped with the shop logo (plautus' face on a trestle table). It's an excuse to show my own wallet, which I've been using for a few months now:

Thanks to a few liberal coatings of boot grease it's lovely and supple, and has darkened a lot. The ring on the front was from using the wallet as a (rather unstable) coaster for a hot cup of tea. The foil is beginning to rub off, and is getting more and more subtle. My wallet was a test to see if it was a good idea to do a stamp on the front, but after a bit of time I'm really happy with how it looks.

[crip_pierre]

the new planter looks great! what exactly is the purpose of the pebble? does it have something to do with the pot or is it to be used as a worry stone, etc?

are those white twill shorts you posted a ways back still available anywhere?

[rodeo bill]

the new planter looks great! what exactly is the purpose of the pebble? does it have something to do with the pot or is it to be used as a worry stone, etc?

Thank you it was a fun thing to do! The pebble is to cover over the hole in the bottom of the pot. You need a hole so that water doesn't collect at the bottom and rot the roots, but you don't want an open hole which soil could fall out of. I'd usually use a real pebble for this, but I liked the idea of producing my own! I also like the idea of it being buried and not seen again. As the pebble isn't a perfect fit for the hole there'll be enough space around it to let water drain, but not enough for soil to fall through.

are those white twill shorts you posted a ways back still available anywhere?

They went to VMC in Zurich, they might still have some- you could contact them to check. Otherwise Silver and Gold, in Osaka, have one pair of size 4 available online here

[rodeo bill]

Another group of things which went up on the trestle shop yesterday, and which are starting to appear in stores, are prints drawn by my great aunt, Natasha Kroll. Here we are together:

Growing up I only knew her as family, but it's been really interesting finding out more about what she did professionally. She worked for BBC television as a set designer and art director, on movies (including Alan Bridges' The Hireling, which she won a bafta for), and as the creative director for Simpsons Picadilly (now the big waterstones book shop). Simpsons' own-brand of clothing was DAKS, and I think she did some of the advertising for them in the 50s.

The prints appearing in shops are lifted from the sketchbooks which she made of designs for a never-made BBC film of John Symonds' The Stuffed Dog, a weird story about two little girls who discover a victorian ventriloquist's dummy, which wakes up, and speaks in her master's voice, having stolen it a hundred years before (so that he died dumb), before locking herself in a suitcase in remorse, only to be awoken in the 1960s. Here are some of Natasha's original drawings and a bit of typography:

Natasha's work is now held in the University of Brighton Design Archives. I've really enjoyed every visit I've been able to make to museum collections and academic archives in general, but Brighton's is particularly friendly and well kept. They hold 18 archives, across a really interesting spread. Well worth a visit (by appointment), if possible. These items have all been produced as a collaboration with the University, and the tote bags are also for sale in their shop.

[wgmds]

So I'm planning on receiving a pair of 129 Unborn, but I think I want a full-leg cut. Are the new 132 with thigh pockets going to be available in waist 30?

[arya_triad]

wanted to buy the type 820 hat on sale ($66) from hickorees, but the flat rate shipping cost to Aus is $45. Damn..

[liquiditytrap]

Has anyone seen those wattle-dyed (tan) 132's around online? I haven't seem 'em yet. Maybe they just aren't available quite yet.

[rodeo bill]

^^^^thanks for the enquiries wgmds and liquidity. jeans are only just starting to go out, but the 132s with leg pockets will be available in the next few weeks from superdenim (uk), del store (hong kong), and a couple of shops in Japan. Please PM or email me if you want more specific details.

[rodeo bill]

really liking the work in progress posts... hope to see some woodworking next!

Sorry this took so long! but here's a bit more about the trestles from which the trestleshop takes its name, and the leather topped tray.

both are made in england by this gentleman, richard, using solid english sweet chestnut. The trestles and tray are finished with oak bark-tanned leather tops, and everything's fixed with copper nails. These pictures were taken the last time I went to see richard, to make the finishing touches and collect the pieces. Most of the images are fairly self-explanatory, but I'll put in some notes if they're not...

We branded the middle board for each tray and the top bar of the trestles with a brass branding iron (heated up in a disposable barbecue!)

the trestle rails were cut from a hide of oak bark leather:

and then trimmed precisely on a circular saw:

the barrels of the solid brass hinges stick up slightly from the flat planes of the top rail when the trestle is open, so the leather had to be hollowed out at the hinge points to allow for this:

[rodeo bill]

the straps which hold the trestle together are cut from the same english-woven ecru cotton canvas webbing as belts and bag straps:

[rodeo bill]

the last piece of the trays to be put together is the centre slats. the design is based on a fruit-crate, with an oak bark-tanned leather floor. the slats and leather are set into a rebate around the underside of the solid sweet chestnut frame

richard uses a metal rod to knock in the copper nails, so as not to hit the sides of the frame:

more info about trestles here, and about trays here

[bbcapone]

Are you physically able to do anything thats not awesome?

[Aries]

^^^ My sentiments exactly.

[rodeo bill]

^

This week I was hand-dyeing some black logwood belts for Huzza in MI, and I thought I'd try some of the wattle tanned unstained leather wallets from the trestle shop.

Here's why logwood is also known as bloodwood....

wen they're well soaked through, I sat them out to dry. this is a really important part- they have to dry folded into the right shape, and the need to dry very slowly, otherwise they might crack:

I left them for a good 3 days, by which time they were really stiff. Out with the boot grease!

I made 3, and they're online now, on the trestle shop

[Aries]

Amazing as usual Bill, just received my boot grease, thanks again for your wonderful service, and I love the personal touch you added, much appreciated .