Ande Whall Denim

[.jacob]

Sad day today.

[The Clerk]

Hi guys. I have been having trouble finding black selvage in a large enough quantity....but I have just received 50 odd yards of very nice 14oz pink line selvage, made in Japan. Slubby, but not to slubby...really nice gear. Basically this first run will be quite short as I cannot get this same denim again, but will be looking for more in the future. There will be no size returns due the lack of yardage on this lot, so previous customers will be good to go or if you are one million percent sure. making a sample now, so pictures will be ready in a couple days.

Ande, is the pink line denim shrink to fit or sanforized?

[kit99bar]

They are sanforized. Ande told me he is testing a pair for shrinkage a few days ago. I went ahead and ordered a pair also.

Ande, is the pink line denim shrink to fit or sanforized?

[poly800rock]

i just washed my grifters after 7.5 months. Man i forgot how tight they were to begin with. Need to wait till i'm back in cali to upload pics as I'm back east for a bit.

[poly800rock]

outside shots before wash @ 7.5 months. No washes, no soaks. worn practically everyday

these are nowhere "done."

inside shots

front details

the arc's ripped on one side, so i took it off the other too, sorry ande.

[poly800rock]

after wash outside pics

a bit too washed out

[poly800rock]

outside details

patch dried out a lot after the wash so i put some oil on it

back pocket rip from billykirk wallet

look, roping without chainstitch

front/back shot

[poly800rock]

inside post wash pics

front/back detail

[TTM]

poly800 those are real nice lookin. Do they have that nice shine in person? I am strongly considering some whalls as my next purchase (grifters) but man i cant stand that white leather patch

[hish]

it's untanned leather man, it ages really nicely. I don't do anything to my patches and they're looking vintage'd out. don't fear the patch.

[mtown408x]

if anything you can probably remove the patch, it looks like it's just stitched on

[pacioli]

Poly- Your jeans look great!

I posted pictures of my custom Grifters here: http://denimnews.blogspot.com/2009/03/who-is-ande-whall-part-i-when-asked-who.html

[sundials]

wow, poly, your grifters are amazing.

my grifters aren't nearly that beautiful (although, all of ande's jeans are beautiful in their own, unique, kindof way)

I am SOOOO tempted to go for some black slackers...

but this dam canadian dollar!!!!

[TTM]

Hey poly, just to be sure those are grifters right? Do you think you could post some fit pics?

[Newman]

I really wan't so see some fit pics of polys AndeWhalls, they got a nice fade! Not your best worn in pair, but absolutely a great pair!

Are you just wearing your jeans everyday and doesn't do any special? Or do you have a job or any other activity that makes the jeans fade fast?

[kit99bar]

Poly's are indeed grifters. Andewhall's website has fit pics of poly when he originally got the jeans.

Hey poly, just to be sure those are grifters right? Do you think you could post some fit pics?

[x714n]

still not sure whether to get (black) raker or grifter

is raker slimmer than new cure?

[capa]

Rakers are most definitely slimmer than new cures. The leg is tapered a lot more, and overall it's just a tighter fit.

[Bona Drag]

^^

that's my impression

plus, remember that nc stretch a shitload too

the sky is blue

yessir

[TTM]

now to decide whether to go with the "sanfordized soft indigo" or rougher "STF dark indigo"

I guessing the difference is just in the texture of the denim (smooth and consistent vs more slubby) and not in the starch or stiffness characteristics of the denim.

It looks like poly had the lighter colored indigo?

[kennyfromthebronx]

yeah, i'm not 100 percent sure, but i dont think the STFs were an option when poly got his.

[andewhall]

Poly's were pre the new line, the SZ, then later the XX was added. They have the old tags and dark brown print on the leather patch. This denim is actually 15oz indigo line, White Oak that was gifted to myself from the fine folks at Cone Denim. I wanted to make me 'ol pal Poly something special, so really they are a one off. If memory serves me correctly I think it was described as, tough to break in, but will produce some beautiful blue hues in time. So who better than poly to beat them up. So basically it isn't any indication to how the SZ or XX will age. I have been wearing some Cougar XX for about 4 months, will try and snap some pic's soon. The oldest pair of SZ must be at the 6 month or so mark, so fairly new still really.

[poly800rock]

Are you just wearing your jeans everyday and doesn't do any special? Or do you have a job or any other activity that makes the jeans fade fast?

Actually, since I started these jeans 08/08/08, they were a gift to myself for starting school. So most of my day is spent in lecture or sitting on my ass studying. I actually do less in my jeans now than I did when I was a desk jockey doing computer stuff. But I also wear these jeans without babying them. For the 18 hours I am awake, these are on my legs. Some days I'll give them a break, if they smell or something, but for the most part it's just WEAR THE DAMN THINGS and they'll turn out fantastic.

Poly's were pre the new line, the SZ, then later the XX was added. They have the old tags and dark brown print on the leather patch. This denim is actually 15oz indigo line, White Oak that was gifted to myself from the fine folks at Cone Denim. I wanted to make me 'ol pal Poly something special, so really they are a one off. If memory serves me correctly I think it was described as, tough to break in, but will produce some beautiful blue hues in time. So who better than poly to beat them up. So basically it isn't any indication to how the SZ or XX will age. I have been wearing some Cougar XX for about 4 months, will try and snap some pic's soon. The oldest pair of SZ must be at the 6 month or so mark, so fairly new still really.

thank you kind sir. check your PM.

[tahonng]

pacioli did a helluva job with his write-up ande.

The special, labor-intensive seams used to put together the back yoke and rise is particularly beautiful. This construction is found on garments from the late 1800's. Ande refers to it as the "late 1800's hand sewn flat felled seam." From inside the jean you will see only one stitch. The outside of the jean will show that two stitches were used. The second stitch is tucked under the felled seam and depending on how the denim shrinks it will cause interesting ridges and valleys inside the seam.

You do this to all the jeans?! How long does it take you to make up a pair?

That's pacioli's pic, as well. Lemme know you if you want me to take it down, H.

[pacioli]

From my blog...hope it's interesting to you.

Who is Ande Whall? Part I

When asked who Ande Whall is I usually start with He is a guy in New Zealand with some sewing machines at home (he just acquired a chainstitcher) and some awesome denim. Although that may sound like an oversimplification this usually impresses my audience of the next two minutes since he or she probably works in the industry and knows how difficult it is to put together a quality pair of jeans.

In fact one of the beauties of supporting up-and-coming designers is to see their growth through construction details. Every upgrade in sewing details is a physical manifestation of their passion and talent.

My first pair of Ande Whall jeans showed up about six months ago and the slim Grifter model was an instant success with fashion industry professionals who admired the modern fit. Others were curious about the "Ande Whall" signature I requested to be placed on the backside of the jeans near the hem. Being able to customize the jeans was supremely gratifying.

I even sent in my own fabric, which was an especially light American selvage denim. I decided on this fabric after my many visits to the beach last summer. At 11.25 oz it is the perfect hot weather weight. At the time I was also inspired by designer Thom Browne and so asked Ande to cut the inseam much shorter than I otherwise would have wanted. In this post I share the results after six months of daily wearing plus a home machine wash and dry (the jeans were originally raw).

The back pocket took a beating from holding coins at all times.

This is the first time I have experienced such interesting looking, destructed honeycombs. It is probably due to the combination of a very tight fitting jean and a lightweight denim being worn continuously.

The blue and pink selvage lines are not only appropriate for a lighthearted summer but functional too. If this material is ever bleached (eg, during industrial washing) the blue line disappears since it is not colorfast.

<<<Deleted some pictures -- Overlimit --See blog for 2 more images>>

In the next Ande Whall post we will review some of the exciting jeans construction details Ande is working on. Stay tuned!

[calvinouch]

MAN that leather patch is beautiful

[nixon]

pacioli did a helluva job with his write-up ande.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n175/patr1ck_2006/andewhall018.jpg

The special, labor-intensive seams used to put together the back yoke and rise is particularly beautiful. This construction is found on garments from the late 1800's. Ande refers to it as the "late 1800's hand sewn flat felled seam." From inside the jean you will see only one stitch. The outside of the jean will show that two stitches were used. The second stitch is tucked under the felled seam and depending on how the denim shrinks it will cause interesting ridges and valleys inside the seam.

You do this to all the jeans?! How long does it take you to make up a pair?

That's pacioli's pic, as well. Lemme know you if you want me to take it down, H.

I don't think so, on the yoke of my pair from the new line there's three lines of stitching in white thread on the inside.

[TTM]

I don't think so, on the yoke of my pair from the new line there's three lines of stitching in white thread on the inside.

The blog article says these pics are from a new pair of rakers

[kit99bar]

Black Grifters came in. If the pics don't show up you may need to copy and paste. Sorry for the inconvenience.

The fly, back of all the belt loops are selvage.

http://uploader.ws/upload/200903/griftersblack.jpg

http://uploader.ws/upload/200903/blkdetails.jpg

[TTM]

pics are broken kit99bar